TourGuide

Dealer field trip is probably the right thing to do and also to verify that the screen capture from above showing a one piece fastener is indeed wrong. I only just looked at the kit briefly before deciding to do the evacuate and fill method - but I do believe that I saw the fasteners as a single piece - I didn't manipulate them to verify - but... Anyhow - good luck and let us know what you find out. I am glad to see that at long last the parts *may* be available at long last to perform a proper spill and fill.

If you do not have to buy the $300 (retail) service kit - count yourself lucky. It does look like on your 20 they deleted the cooler. I scratch my head at OEM decisions like this. It seems every manufacturer has their own version of decontenting at play. In this case they didn't even give you BACK your drain plug! You will probably never find out why that was done. On a side note - It looks like the bolt and nut are separate on that picture - but I believe they are a single piece that then threads into the block. I'm not sure if this makes them a special part.

I have a 2019 with the cooler. I had the service performed with a suck out and refill strategy which is obviously not ideal - but the only way for me to source those stretch bolts you mention is to buy a kit for replacement of the entire cooler assembly JUST to get those TWO STINKING bolts! $300 for the kit! I was unhappy with this kind of proposition and so ended up settling for the evacuate and refill strategy. Mon Dieu! It is design decisions like this that are killing this brand. Is that a picture of your PTU case? It looks like there is a spot there where the cooler sits on my 2019 PTU - but it is missing in your 20. Curious. The ford parts catalog shows the cooler on the edge with the 2.7 and awd: I do not know what to make of your transfer case.

Salt is kryptonite for most of our rides - mine is no exception. My dad drummed into me the importance of getting a quality rust proofing done if you have a vehicle you intend to keep. Where I live - it makes all the difference and just doesn't make sense - cost wise to skip. I've been using the same shop to do this work for several cars I have owned now and they do good work. My wife passed on it with her 2010 Escape that our son now drives and that car is full of rot - all for skipping a couple hundred bucks worth of protection. Those rails seem like a great solution. I hope they make the solution you need.

I know exactly what you mean about access on this - I completed this service myself and ordered this tool to finish the job. Sadly it came after I had finished the job so I didn't actually get to use it this go round - but next time I will. I am pretty sure it will get the job done in similar fashion to the breaker bar above.

The area of software support is an emerging area of concern with auto OEMs and Ford is not an exception. Whether it is plain slow development or dis-investment in the IT infrastructure surrounding the tech - the result is the same - long wait times and problems that sometimes end up in a que of other problems needing solutions. It is hard to say where the pipeline problem exists that holds these things up. Ford has changed sync development platforms a couple of times I think - and this splits development tracks I think into different paths. Some of which are closed loops presently (think original sync - no rhyme intended). With Ford - at least we still have access to Car Play and Android Auto. I refuse to get into a model of in car entertainment that contains a dash system with an ongoing service charge (I'm looking at YOU GM!). This is the direction GM and other OEMS are looking to go and it is just another way for us to become revenue streams. I for one am not excited about this idea.

I picked up my 19 today after having the front struts, mounts, and rubber isolators replaced as well as the right side control arm in order to service the ball joint on that side. Front end clunk noises are now gone and I'm happy with the results.

I had the work completed on the struts and strut mounts as well as also having the right side control arm replaced in order to service a bad ball joint on that side. Noises are gone and things are back to like new.

I have chased this noise on two Ford vehicles - an MKC (Escape) and this Edge I am driving now. Today I am having the parts cannon unloaded on my Edge and having the struts, mounts, strut bearings, and all related noise isolators replaced. I will let you know if this fixes the problem. I suspect that the culprit is really the mount bearings, but I am trying to get to a solution - so we shall see.

If I were you - I would seek out another dealership service department. Where I am - there are dealers I will not use unless I absolutely HAVE to do so - and even then it is no more than an oil change. My purchasing dealer owes me the first 3 - so I am using them for that. For the front suspension clunk I have been chasing I have ZERO faith that this same dealership would - a.) Be able to correctly diagnose this issue. - AND OR - b.) Advocate for me as a warranty item (they - as other dealers do I am sure - point to Ford as the denier of claims and say - hey nothing we can do here - shrug. So in attempting to solve this - I'm going to a dealer 20 miles away to replace the struts, mounts, and etc because of the trust factor. This second dealer has performed work with good results for me in the past - full boat retail - but fine by me for quality execution and customer service. I am salty about my local dealer's operation because I had an established relationship with one of the service advisors then he left for an independent shop - now it feels like a sales pitch cluster every time I walk in there. On the upside I did purchase from them so there is that.

Unfortunately no pictures - sorry. Yes - the plastic panels on the rear hatch are the ones I gave the treatment. I mostly followed the procedure found in this video. I did not add the sound mat material but that would have been even better - also I did use some 1 mm single sided foam tape between plastic to plastic and plastic to metal edges. It was more time, but was worth it I think. I used this tape. Surprises here were how loose the OE pins had become in their slots. The window weld really made a difference and was worth the effort.

Wow - that is a lot of shavings on that magnet. What model year do you drive?

I stand corrected again. I guess I should know that since I had formerly driven a 16.

I believe there ARE alternative - better - and less expensive alternatives for the PTU fliud. It doesn't take much - not even a full quart. I referred to what I used above - which complies with for spec for the PTU. The RDU is another matter and there is only Ford fluid for that. Suck out and refill is an imperfect solution - but I did find a local shop that only charged me .5 hour labor if I supplied the fluid - so I would suggest trying to find a shop you trust that would do that. Fair warning - you also may want to verify that the service was performed by looking for witness marks etc - which means some hassle for you. The value of this is in knowing your set for the next 20k or so on the clock. Important when no warranty coverage has your back.

Today I buttoned up the work on the rear hatch body panels. They were really rattling and chattering going down the road. After pulling everything apart it was clear why that was happening. The push pins were just sloppy and worn. My fix for this problem (which did work) was to replace the clips and wrap each re-inserted replacement base in a bit of 3M window weld. I also did get just a bit of window weld on the push pin side at the insertion point which I think will help long term. Yes this was a pain and did take a few minutes to accomplish. The result was well worth the effort I can confirm. Now the only noise I get from the cabin really is the BAMR - which I think is perhaps just how it will be given body flex and so forth. I will look at it - but I think that is just what it is. Very happy I did this.