TourGuide

I second enigma's thought about the opener itself (the hardware) being the problem. I have replaced 2 craftsman openers (about 10 years old) that had mainboard issues that prevented closing. The problems were intermittent but replacing the units with liftmasters solved the issues.

That one has the added bonus of the cow flatulence reducer blend built right in. Good call. 👏

We Edge owners are much luckier than Escape owners when it comes to cabin air filter replacement. Edge filters are a breeze to slip in. I upgraded my cabin filters with Wix multilayer - which do a fantastic job in comparison to oe.

What I can gather from your post is: 1. 2019 Edge with 36000 miles makes a tone when accelerating after a stop with no message on dash. 2. You get a message that something (you said battery) is turned off to save battery. 3. You took it to the dealership and they did something in software that didn't fix anything. 4. The car won't keep your cellphone synced. (I am unclear exactly what this refers to) ______________________________________________________ For #2 above - I would suggest you take this car to an auto shop you know you can trust and ask them to put a battery tester on your 12 volt battery to see if it needs to be replaced. Your car is right in the time frame of needing the original battery to be replaced as they generally have a limited life span. For #1 - a door or hood latch that has gone bad can trigger a chime - so having a shop check these may help. For #3 - I have no comment for this. For #4 - I have no comment for this.

There is so much that could be said on this topic - there isn't a snowball's chance that we will ever have any real privacy protections in the US anyway. In the EU there are some privacy initiatives meant to be helpful - but in the US - the people who could set the regulation don't grasp the technology well enough to have any idea what questions to ask - so we have what we have. At best - you have surface level control of this - and you will like it! Most if not all of what you detail above Google has had it's own version of for years - this is just the latest Ford version.

This is a great post - you are lucky to have a drain plug.

This issue - which seems to impact a range of ecoboost motors - is the result of design flaws with the block. My wife bought an escape with the 1.5 in it and this motor has had 2 short blocks replaced (1 by us - under warranty) and a new head - also under warranty. I have already started talking to her about making a decision about that car before the esp runs out.

Unfortunately decontenting is part of the industry. I had heard mention of this being done - the hands free lift gate delete - but I think it was a mistake on Ford's part. I once bought a Buick Enclave and found that the light in the glove box was deleted in my model year - I was unhappy about that too. I was able to fix that issue - so it may be possible to add your hands free liftgate back in - but likely it will cost you some. Rotten luck I am afraid.

I am assuming you will be replacing the set of 4 with these. https://www.nokiantires.com/all-weather-tires/nokian-tyres-remedy-wrg5/ I have the wrg4s on our escape and they are the best all weather tires I have ever driven on. Had them on 3 years now and they are still quiet and have plenty of tread remaining. I expect to get more than 60k out of them.

I believe that when defrost runs that the ac is activated at the same time in order to dry the air. This may explain why start stop doesn't activate with the defrost as an ac load is perhaps one of the things that deactivates the function.

Have you tested the battery - with a legitimate battery tester? I mean one that will report out to you the actual cca of your battery as it currently is? If not - it may be that your battery is perfectly capable of starting your car - but may not be capable of carrying our the start/stop function it was intended to perform. My dealership reported to me that my battery was low on cca - but before this I had noted that the start stop would happen intermittently. I tested my battery and found it had 390 cca - so I replaced the battery - and reset it using the process you described - as well as resetting through my scan tool. My start/stop function has returned with the new battery and the reset. Perhaps what you have is a weak battery in both cases?

Is this an FWD or AWD vehicle? This is something the PTU will do out the vent tube when the oil is cooked and the unit is about to fail.

Hmm - it never occurred to me that the bms may be fibbing. I thought that was the domain of my local dealership service department almost exclusively. I got some feedback about my battery cca at my most recent oil change (which was included in my purchase - don't get me started there) so I put the battery on my tester - and low and behold it was low - at the cca stated. So my battery at least was on the way out. I have heard from some ford techs that it also matters where you hook up to charge (outside the bms sensor) so that the change is registered by the sensor. I do suppose that resetting the sensor would effectively accomplish the same thing as long as the battery was brought up to charge.

Also turned into an Amsoil acolyte as I purchased my 'annual membership' so I can get the discount. Just when I thought I was done with Sam's Club - Costco membership 🤷‍♂️ they get me with a great product. Also - the battery swap really drove home why you need a well maintained battery to me. My start-stop function has returned to normal - so there is that.

Replaced the original battery with a new AGM and completed the bms reset - which I did using both the light flash/brake and also with my scan tool. I was down to about 390 cca. I managed to also drop a 7mm socket down the grill shroud. It did not kindly drop through to the garage floor - instead it plinko-style made it's way down into the shielding in the engine compartment. No amount of looking with my scope turned it up - the thing is down there somewhere. I hope it won't turn into a projectile at some point. I also installed a JL oil separator. That was easy enough but managed to throw a CEL when I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor. So that was my pants-brick moment there. I wish the socket were as easily solved as that was. Now I need a soda.