JohnCT

Thanks everyone. My buddy is going to pass on the Edge. He'd prefer a built in nav and I agree. I've never seen a phone work as well as a dedicated navigation unit. On my wife's old 2009 Edge, if a voice prompt wasn't heard or understood, a simple press of the button on the tuning knob made it repeat the message without taking eyes off the road, although I don't know if the new Sync 4A offers a physical button like the 09 Sync radio had. If someone else borrows the car they won't have a nav unless they know how to sync their phones to the car. In my case, I often forget to take my phone (I'm not a Borg and don't have a hive mind where I need the security of constant contact). John

I *think* the answer is no, but I thought I'd ask. It's odd that Ford would not add a way for the dealer to upgrade an existing vehicle to navigation. My Mazdas always had a provision for adding satellite radio and navigation to cars already equipped with the LCD display. Second question - can a junk yard donor provide the equipment necessary? A friend is looking at a 2022 Edge that doesn't have nav, but has a huge Tesla sized screen. 2022 Edge display Thanks for any input. John

The handle is fine, the latch is porked. I generally go with OEM but web searching suggests that these factory power latch assemblies are garbage (they even had a program on them which of course is now expired), so I ordered a Dorman. My long experience with Ford tells me they never fix a crappy system unless they can do it for no cost, and only upgrade on the new generation. I'll put the new latch in this week and report what's involved. John

Pushing 3/4 does indeed unlock all the doors, but unlocking the other doors is not the problem - pushing the FOB unlock twice unlocks them anyway as you know. The problem is the driver's door won't open from the outside and getting to the inside latch is a problem from any other door. The left side back door is too far away from the driver's door latch to get it (I have the wingspan of a condor and I can barely reach it) and if you unlatch it from the pass side, there's a chance the door will relatch if the car is leaning slightly toward the left.. If the window went down it would really make this easy. In any case, I ordered a Dorman part and will replace it next week. John

Thanks, I was hoping there was an Easter Egg hiding in a key press combination (perhaps there is still!). I'll play around with it tonight but I'm afraid you're correct. John

Sorry if this is the wrong forum. I have to replace a defective door latch on my wife's 2009 Edge Limited because the door won't open from the outside. It's a couple hours worth of work and I won't have time this holiday week even if the part shows up before Christmas. Is there a feature on the '09 where the windows can be dropped either from the FOB or the keypayd? Crawling over the passenger seat is a pain in the butt for older folks.. Thanks. John

Hi all, a 2009 Edge Limited driver door won't unlock. When either unlocked by the fob, keypad, or the interior button, the door lock stub pops up but then immediately drops back down (not sure if it's being actively pulled down). Right now, we have to climb in the passenger door and open it with the door handle (which works normally). Using the manual key, the door lock stub can be moved to the up position (and held up if necessary) which would seem to be unlocked, but the car still won't open from the outside. I've read that there are issues with these locks/latches but all the complaints I've seen have to do with a "door ajar" indicator issue, something this car strangely does not have. I have not seen this particular issue anywhere I looked on the web, including here of course. Before I order a power door lock/latch assy, is there something I overlooked? Second question - since these are known to be problematic, is there a preferred aftermarket part or should I put in a Ford part? John

When my wife had an 09, her car did this. I found a bad outer tie rod on both sides. Changed them both and had it aligned. Problem gone. John

Has anyone tried taking a long Torx tool like this one: .. and cutting it down behind the head to gain access to the fasteners behind the tone ring? Or, would this tool work for that purpose without relieving it behind the tip as is? Thanks. EDIT: I'm inclined to try to make this tool. Does anyone know how thin the "waist" behind the head needs to be? I don't want to make it too thin for obvious reasons but I also don't want to knacker the tone ring either... Thanks again. John

The NAV straightened itself out. It probably had to figure itself out after I reset it a few days ago. It's now on track and usable. One thing I noticed is that the "no gps" warning square pops up on and off on the display while driving today. This was my wife's car before we gave it to my sister and she doesn't remember the no gps indicator, but then, she might not have noticed it even if it did pop up. Is this abnormal? This has a new antenna and it acts like the other antenna I changed a few years ago. I also tried reconnecting the original antenna still mounted under the dash and it doesn't work at all. So the original antenna was bad and I've tried two Chinese aftermarket antennas that work - kind of. I wonder if the marginal reception is because of the cheap antennas. At least it works so I'm not going to worry about it. Thanks for the help everyone. John

No, running stock wheels and tires. Battery about two years old and tests perfect on electronic analyzer. Thanks for the reply. John

In Connecticut, which tends to be hilly with a lot of tall trees. Here's some more info that I didn't think to mention: this car had a bad tone ring - so to keep the ABS from chattering the brakes on dry pavement, I pulled the ABS fuse which disabled the AWD, ABS, traction, and stability until I had the chance to install the new axle. Disabling the ABS also eliminated the NAV from dead reckoning using the car's speed sensors (like when in a tunnel or in a tall stand of trees), so the radio announced a Nav error. Once I installed the new axle and restored the ABS, the GPS still refused to dead reckon even after a couple days of usage. Resetting the phone settings suddenly allowed the dead reckoning to work and the NAV is now functional again, except of course for the 1/4 error. I'll drive it a few more days before giving it back to my sister and see if the NAV sorts itself out. Thanks. John

2009 Edge Limited. The NAV works but it always lags about 1/4 mile behind regardless of direction. In the diagnostic menu, it shows anywhere between 2 and 5 satellites depending on conditions, but it's always behind. Needless to say it's tough or impossible to use. I went into the phone section and did a reset and that didn't help. I don't see any method of resetting the NAV or calibrating it. This is a car I gave to my sister a few years ago, and it worked properly when I last had it. Is it just too old to work? BTW, I just picked up another antenna on Amazon, and it acts the same way. Thanks. John

My sister went to have new tires installed on her 2009 AWD, and the tire shop couldn't get one of the lug nuts off on the right front. I took a quick look at it and the stud itself is spinning in the hub (I opened a hole on the decorative outer trim cap to see the stud center). Is there enough room behind the hub to tack weld the stud down to the back of the hub in order to pull the wheel off? She's going back today because they said they could change the stud, but in case they run into a problem, I'd like to know what my options are. If we can get it apart, I'll change the hub/bearing. Also, are these front hubs problematic where it might be better to replace both front hub/wheel bearings? Thanks. John

My sister's 09 set a code last week for a #3 misfire (front of the engine) so I tossed in an NGK plug I picked up locally to get her going. The original misfiring plug was gapped over .09. I ordered a set of Motorcraft plugs, Motorcraft coil boots, Motorcraft PCV valve, and Felpro intake plenum gaskets and changed them Saturday. These plugs are supposedly pregapped but they were inconsistent. Half of them needed to be tweaked. All the rest of the remaining original plugs were in the same shape with over .085 and up gap measured. At 90K miles, these plugs were probably at least 20K beyond their expiration. And just like the old Escapes, a misfire will damage the coil drivers in the PCM and require replacement or rebuild of the PCM, so it's prudent to replace the plugs *before* they misfire. The total job took about 90 minutes and required no special tools. Just a basic socket set, a channel lock pliers to squeeze a hose clamp that held a hose onto the plenum, and a "cats claw" tool to help pop out the wire looms. It may seem daunting at first but removing the upper intake plenum is very easy. Just remember to stuff rags into the intake runners after the plenum is removed lest you drop something down the intake and into the engine (that's bad folks.) There is information both on the web and on this site from other members for the procedure so I won't describe it except to say it's an easy job. Don't be afraid to change the plugs yourself, and make sure you do BEFORE you get a misfire and damage your PCM. John

I gotta tell you, if the engine has 30K miles on it I wouldn't touch anything on it - just plug and play. Okay, I'd probably change the plugs as long as it's on the engine stand but that's it. At 30K miles, the engine is for all intents and purposes virtually new. John

Thanks for the info. My sister has the Edge now and I'll change her coolant before the winter. What brand of coolant have you been using? John

All cars have problems, even Jeeps. But I've owned an 88 Sable, 95 Sable, two 95 Windstars, 2004 Escape and a 2005 Escape (bought used to replace the Windstars in my business). Both Sables needed transmissions. Fortunately, I specifically ordered the 3.0 Vulcan V6s because they were available so no engine problems. Both Windstars blew transmissions and both needed their Essex V6 engines rebuilt because of head gaskets. Both Escapes needed the CD4E transmissions rebuilt. The only Ford that was bullet proof was my 2000 Explorer Sport that I specifically ordered with a manual because the automatics were known to be junk. Between the German Cologne 4.0 and the Japanese (Mitsu) manual transmission, the power train gave me no trouble. BTW, all the above failures were known issues from the day they were put in production and never addressed. The 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee we bought new now has about 300K miles on it, and it's on it's original engine, original automatic trans, and original transfer case. In all this time I've replaced the cooling fan, fan controller, passenger side power window regulator, the coil pack and last week the alternator. All these things I did in my driveway except for a vacuum line leak that a garage smoked out (rubber lines at charcoal canister near gas tank). My son still has this Jeep and it's still running well. I bought a Jeep Compass to replace one of the Escapes and a new Grand Cherokee for my wife. There were not many bigger Ford fans around than I was, but it reaches a point of absurdity, and I'm there now. And as Bigblock says above, it's a shame. Ford really did their homework on the NVH of the Edge. It's as tight, smooth, and silent a ride as I've ever experienced. The resale is in the toilet because it's typical Ford major systems failures have become known. If Ford snuffed these problems out early in production instead of making the owners cover the costs, resale on Ford products would be much higher. John

Hijack away. This is important information to anyone who still has an Edge. Hopefully, something as innocuous as a silly water pump didn't destroy your engine. Hmmm... burying a water pump inside the timing cover... what could go wrong? I left Ford in the early 2000s because of constant auto trans problems and the Essex V6 engine failures (I've had them all). We bought the Edge because my wife liked it, we got a good deal on it, and I had heard that GM had a lot to do with the Edge's transmission design, so I took a chance. The PTU going out at 50K has taught me that sometimes you just can't go home. The Edge is gone and I'm back with Jeep. The last Ford I'll own is one I bought the year I got married: a 1966 Mustang 2+2 bought in 1985. I'll keep this car and give it to my son when I'm all done driving, but Ford has bitten me for the last time. John

Do you mean *literally* into the oil pan? Coolant in the oil will strip the babbitt off the bearings and destroy the engine in a very short time. John

Sure, they're fair game.. John

Although the PTU has a fairly severe angle on the ring and pinion, it's otherwise just a gear box with no clutches. It's hard to believe that it's just friction alone (particularly since it's all roller bearing) that could cause synthetic fluid breakdown of this magnitude, which is why I believe the PTU's proximity to the cat is a huge contributing factor. It's tiny fluid capacity is another contributing factor, but still points back to unmitigated heat gain. I have no evidence, but logical speculation would suggest that Ford designed and prototyped several examples of the PTU which were run with full torque to see how the box could cope with stress and heat. I would assume the box would have to have passed these bench tests before production was ordered. My speculation is that the environment the PTU experiences as installed in these platforms was an unforeseen problem that caught Ford by surprise. I unloaded my Edge after installing a new PTU, but if I was going to keep it, the plan was to fabricate and install a heat shield and airflow diverter and monitor the temperatures before and after with a thermocouple to test the effectiveness of it. John

Or even less! If you search "Ford" "GPS" and "Pink", you get this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/mini-GPS-Active-Antenna-Fakra-SMB-Pink-H-jack-3M-Cable-for-ford-lincoln-Mercury-/281126337095?epid=668911223&hash=item41746f7a47:g:JZwAAOxyIAZRx7P8 It seems that the Chinese aftermarket has these covered, and by the number of various knock offs available and the amount of them they sell for all brands of cars, it would appear these active antennas are troublesome. John

Got it! Next time I see the car I'll pull the radio and check the ant connection and NOT waste my time with the shark fin at the back (which I was ready to pull out). My sister said today that the map is actually updating and is closer to home, but still has the "no gps" indicator. Hopefully, it's a marginal connection or an antenna issue at worst. When I get it sorted out I'll post the solution. John

We know how many Ford made, but do we really know how many fail? When the Jeep dealer asked about our trade, I told him it was an Edge and had a problem. *He* asked if it was the PTU. Seems they had a bunch of Explorers and Flex' they took on trade that they had to replace them in. I laughed, told him yes, and I had the new PTU in a box in the back and he still didn't want it despite it being a loaded Limited pearl white with vista roof and nav. The word is out. When I brought one of my Escapes in for a trans rebuild a couple of years ago, I asked the owner (independent shop) how the Edge trans were, and he told me the PTUs were far more trouble. It was then that I suspected the noise and vibration I was hearing was not the rear wheel bearing. Maybe. I don't pretend to know for sure, but there's definitely a chicken or the egg thing going on. Somebody here who is reported to be "in the know" said the problem could be a one time overheat of the PTU fluid, so regular maintenance would not prevent this (I had suggested a long term coking of the fluid). It could very well be a seal failure leading to loss of fluid leading to overheating of the remaining fluid due to less of it and more friction with less lubrication. The other possibility is that the box just gets too damned hot causing the seal to fail from the scorching heat, or failing due to loss of lubrication by the scorched fluid. Again, chicken or the egg. The other thing that bothers me is that the PTU is mostly free wheeling; the majority of engine torque is transferred to the front wheels through the intermediate shaft, not the PTU. Also, there are no clutches in the PTU. Is it really possible that this box generates that much heat without handling that much torque just from friction losses? Perhaps. Again, I'm not a mechanical engineer. Back when I planned to keep the Edge, I was going to mount a thermocouple on the far side off the PTU (away from the cat) and measure the temperature of the PTU during stop and go, highway driving, and pulling long hills (which we live among around here). If the PTU showed steady temperatures well within the capability of the lube, it would make sense that a leak might be the trigger. But if the PTU showed wildly differing temps, then my plan was to fabricate a heat shield and air deflector to keep the cat's heat off the PTU and redirect airflow under the car over the PTU. I took a far easier path and gave the car to my sister. Other than the Nav acting up right now, she absolutely loves this car. John