lildisco
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Posts posted by lildisco
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2 hours ago, kruzr1 said:
I've had this happen on my edge also but not quite as bad. I replaced the rear pads, rotors and hardware last summer. I just noticed it is happening again. Only on the rear drivers side also, sure seems kind of odd. I don't notice anything odd during braking.
I'm wondering if some sort of debris from the pads?
I've had 4 or 5 sets of these over the years on different vehicles & have never had an issue. Maybe this was just a fluke. Surely it's odd, but relatively cheap repair.
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I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premiums & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.I've noticed a weird grove developing in my drivers side rear rotor. Took everything apart & cleaned & lubed everything last week, but no change. I probably could have paid someone to resurface both the pad & rotor, but it was ~$150 for a new set of pads & rotors for the rear, so I just replaced them. Both sets were centric premium rotors & centric pads, so maybe something wedged between it & I didn't catch it. Relatively painless repair, took more time to find my rear caliper tool than anything.
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1 hour ago, akirby said:
When you charge it you have to put the negative cable on the body not on the battery. That way the charging goes through the battery sensor.That's how I always have done it as the negative side of the battery isn't easy to get to.
Start-stop still works for ~ 2 months so far after resetting the BMS. I haven't looked at the battery state of charge, but I can if the issue pops up again.
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I posted this in another thread, but:
I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal.
The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged.
Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal.
As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since
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1 hour ago, TourGuide said:
Also - the battery swap really drove home why you need a well maintained battery to me. My start-stop function has returned to normal - so there is that.
I don't have much to back this up, but my start-stop wasn't working for months stating that it was disabled for vehicle charging. I even threw it on the battery charger for a few days & it still wouldn't work. I went into FORScan & reset the BMS & my start-stop function has returned to normal.
The car would sit for days on the charger & the start-stop function wouldn't work, even when the charger would indicate that it's in trickle mode, aka fully charged.
Figured I'd need to drive it around more, so I'd unhook it & go for a couple hours drive at highway speeds & it still wouldn't work. Got curious & went into FORScan & did a BMS reset & it's back to normal.
As I said earlier, I don't have much to support this, but I think that the BMS lies. It was almost 3 years to the day that I purchased our 2020, (10/2020) when the start-stop feature quit due to vehicle charging. I reset the BMS in January & it's been fine ever since
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I was able to take part of the fender liner off & installed a 2015-2018 OEM Ford edge horn. Plug & play, less than 10 minutes on our 2020 SEL AWD.
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They should have with the volume button. I'd read the owners manual & if that doesn't work, I'd make a trip to the dealership.
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1 hour ago, dabangsta said:
It does have a filter, and while it isn't user serviceable it is more like ones that are, not just a screen in between the case halves, but at bottom of the pump.
Thanks. I guess it is serviceable when you split the trans open, lol.
Here's MacT talking about the ULV fluids:
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To my knowledge, there's no filter in these transmissions, so any wear from the transmission just sits in the coolant & cycled through everything. When I do another 3x drain & fill I'll probably switch to Valvoline. Probably by that time MacT will have changed his 2019 fluid a couple of times & report on the results.
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I also swapped the PTU Fluid to Redline Lightweight Shockproof (AKA Smurf Blood, because it's blue). After ~8,000 miles, there's way less gunk in it, compared to OEM, but with ~8,000 miles, that's nothing on new fluid, but I wanted to make sure that I got as much of the OEM fluid out of there. The 1st pic is the 1st drain with the OEM fluid
& this is the most recent drain with Redline Lightweight Shockproof
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Ziebart traps in moisture & rots metal from the inside out. Use a breathable undercoating like fluid film, unless you don't plan on keeping your vehicle for an extended period of time.
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Also decided to do a transmission Drain & fill x3, touch up my undercoating with Fluid Film & swap over to my winter rubber on our 2020 SEL AWD. Spring me screwed fall me & didn't clean the winter wheels when the weather was nicer & warmer. So that took some extra time & nice hot bucket of water. Besides touching up the door hinges & the bottom of the doors & hatch, I should be ready for winter.
The 1st drain & fill got about 4.2 qts out & the other 2 got 3.5 qts out. Motorcraft Ulv fluid was $3/qt cheaper than Valvoline equivalent. Fluid was quite dark & a tiny hint of red in it. On the 3rd drain, there was more red in it. Currently ~26,000, but I did a lot of hauling with a small utility trailer & ztr this year & wanted to be extra cautious. A friend of mine who owns a transmission shop said that I should be fine till next year, but was shocked at how dark the fluid was. It was getting late & I was tired & forgot to snap a Pic of the 3rd drain, but it was more red than the first 2.
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I have them on my 2020 SEL AWD. I ran them above my curt hitch & conceal it behind the bumper cover when not in use. The I use my portable air compressor which I keep in the hatch area & inflate them. Makes a nice difference when traveling with a lot of cargo in the back.
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My 2020 SEL didn't come with the insulation or engine cover. Ordered both & installed in under 10 minutes. The hood insulation seems to be worth it, especially since we live in the rust belt.
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I think our issue was the oil pressure sensor just above the oil filter. Has telflon tape on it I think. Took my mechanic 2 visits to find it. Since he replaced it, the garage doesn't smell like oil & no puddles under it. Going over 4 months since he replaced it & 0 oil on the pan or surrounding areas
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I thought that purge valve is under the hood on the drivers side of the engine. Is there a canister purge valve in a different location?
Our 2016 2.0L purge valve was on the driver's side of the engine. Was ~$150 part.
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Usually the purge valve, but I believe that there's a vent somewhere in the gas tank full tube. I'm not 100% sure.
Motul VI ATF
in Edge ST
Posted
I know that the non ST's take ULV fluid. Not sure about the ST's. I just did my 2020 SEL's with OEM Mercon ULV fluid a few months ago. Doubt it's helpful. Owners manual says Mercon ULV for the 2.7L :