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lildisco

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Posts posted by lildisco

  1. 33 minutes ago, JGN12 said:

    I'm very interested why you're planning to change this fluid.  Trying to get my head around my manual's scheduled maintenance for this being "never, unless it shows sign of leakage," and my local dealer's recommendation that the manual's "never needs servicing" is nonsense and it should be changed every 50,000 miles or so, and you're changing at 18,000 miles?  Please let me know what you've heard and why you're changing it.  Thanks

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. Just be warned that all dealerships aren't created equal. We have family in Bellbrook/Dayton area & we're down that way occasionally. 

     

    Adding the horn from the 2015-2018's was one of the 1st things that I did, along with the engine cover & hood insulation & window tint. Also bought a hitch & wiring harness & airbags in the rear to put the edge to work (mostly on weekends). 

    20220604_101449.jpg

  3. Where about in Ohio? We're about 45 west of Cleveland in Lorain County. All sorts of information on this site. 

     

    Our Edge's, 2016 & 2020, have been great. Preventative maintenance is key. I'm getting ready to drain & fill the PTU this week & possibly the rear diff. 

     

    Congratulations, you'll like it. Post up some pics

  4. 2 hours ago, bofus said:

    Got rid of the single horn that they put in the '18 models and replaced it with a twin-horn setup from the earlier model years. Pretty easy...take out the left side headlight, remove the old bracket and single "vw bug" horn and replace with OEM Ford part number FA1Z13832B. It's a small thing and took about 30 minutes. Looks like the single horn is the "L" (low), so you really only need the "H" (high) horn, but then you'd have to wire it up. It was about $50.

    That was one of the 1st things I did on our 2020. I thought that they changed to the single horn in 2019 though. 

    • Like 1
  5. 22 hours ago, Cerberus said:

    Got you 

    As a mechanic, usually a stumble is when you roll into the throttle (either under load or not) and the engine doesn't rev up as expected, but rather stumbles like biden on the stairs to air force one, but I can see how your use makes sense too

    I consider your description as a  chug/miss or struggling to accelerate. Tomato / Tomato ?

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Cerberus said:

    Not sure what you mean by stumbling at idle, but when mine was bad, it had a cyclic  low idle after fill ups. 

    And the purge valve did fix it

    After filling up, for a few miles, every time you pulled up to a stop light/sign, it would idle rough & acted like it was going to stall. Swapped the $22 purge valve (non OEM, which I couldn't find an OEM for anything less than $170 + $20 shipping & included extra pipes/tubing) . 

    After swapping, no rough idle after fillup & mpgs are back up to normal range. 

    • Like 1
  7. On 10/19/2022 at 9:39 PM, lildisco said:

    My 2020 SEL AWD bought in October 2020 is on it OEM battery. I occasionally throw it on a battery tender from time to time. It's currently ~16,000 miles & sits a lot. I noticed the last few days on drives ~30 - 40 minutes the auto start/stop wouldn't work. In the menu it said that it wasn't working because of system charging. I hooked up my battery tender the other night & let it charge for a few hours & the tender was saying it was @ 75 - 100, which isn't unheard of. Had to take the cat to the vet (regular check up) & disconnected the tender (which was in trickle/maintaine mode) & my auto start/stop was working fine.

     

    I guess it helps to charge the battery up from time to time. I don't do it constantly & I know the car adjusts it's charging during due to the battery age & etc., but I'm wondering if it's more of a programming issue to replace the battery sooner rather than later, who knows? Wonder if I should reset the battery monitor & see if the auto/start stays functioning without a top up. 

    Did some errands tonight and the auto start/stop worked as it should. My trip mpg, which I reset after every fill up, shows me at 27.3 mpg for this tank ?

    • Like 2
  8. My 2020 SEL AWD bought in October 2020 is on it OEM battery. I occasionally throw it on a battery tender from time to time. It's currently ~16,000 miles & sits a lot. I noticed the last few days on drives ~30 - 40 minutes the auto start/stop wouldn't work. In the menu it said that it wasn't working because of system charging. I hooked up my battery tender the other night & let it charge for a few hours & the tender was saying it was @ 75 - 100, which isn't unheard of. Had to take the cat to the vet (regular check up) & disconnected the tender (which was in trickle/maintaine mode) & my auto start/stop was working fine.

     

    I guess it helps to charge the battery up from time to time. I don't do it constantly & I know the car adjusts it's charging during due to the battery age & etc., but I'm wondering if it's more of a programming issue to replace the battery sooner rather than later, who knows? Wonder if I should reset the battery monitor & see if the auto/start stays functioning without a top up. 

    • Like 1
  9. 51 minutes ago, FatalScroll said:

    Yeah pretty sure because he said something along the lines of the 2.7 will grenade itself which doesn't make much sense to me as the MKX has the 2.7 and a 3500 tow capacity. 

     

    I already have the hitch installed along with wiring, I use it for my small trailer but was worried about pulling a boat in-between 2-3k because the capacity is lower, I could just never figure out why. 

     

     

    I just remembered something that it also has to be AWD to get 3500lbs, FWD is limited to 2000lbs. I think that it has something to do with bigger brakes & when you take off the weight transfers to the back, so having AWD helps there. All 2016 - 2018 Sports are AWD (2015 they made some FWD versions) & all ST's are AWD. 

    If I could go back in time, I would have bought my 2020 SEL with the towing package so I wouldn't have to install the hitch & wiring, but I have a better hitch & don't have a hole in the bumper. 

    If you want to continue towing near the max towing, I'd recommend changing fluids much earlier than recommended, upgrading your pads & rotors & look at helper springs to deal with the sagging. I bought Air Lift Springs & they definitely help with sagging when towing heavier things or when I have passengers in the back or lots of cargo. 

    Screenshot_20220904-213936_Gallery.jpg

  10. 2 hours ago, FatalScroll said:

    I've seen that video and he is incorrect and he even states that it's only 2,000 in a different video. 

     

    I have an aftermarket class 3 hitch installed on mine. What happens if I tow say a 2,500lb boat? 

    You sure that it wasn't the previous Gen? Because there's no oil cooler or trans cooler part of the towing package for the 2015+ edge. The Sports didn't have a factory towing package & you'd have to go after market for a hitch & wiring, but limited to 3,500lbs. I also have a Curt class 3 hitch & after market wiring for a 4 pin connector. I usually just pull a ZTR, but I can pull a more if I want to. 

    20220903_124418.jpg

    part-1_20220604_103019.jpg

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