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bb56

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Everything posted by bb56

  1. I've been getting a thum-thum type noise that corresponds to wheel speed for about 2 years. It seems to be coming from the rear. At first I thought it was an out of round tire from the type of noise it made. I rotated tires making no difference. I've checked wheel bearings both manually and by doing side-to-side turns at 30 mph (noise is most easily heard at that speed). No luck. I put the car up on jackstands took off the tires and disabled the anti-lock brakes by pulling the fuse (must do this otherwise they try to engage) and had a friend accelerate to 30mph whil I circled the car with a steel rod to my ear to probe suspected spots. He could hear it but I couldn't isolate it to front or rear. Too much other noise. The front right axle looked like it was wobbling a little so I replaced it and the wheel bearing since I had it and was in there. No luck. Noise is the same. Since it felt like it was coming the right rear when I drive it, I replaced that wheel bearing - very rusted-in but found a neat trick of pushing out a stud and using another bolt to press against the knuckle finally worked. However, that didn't fix the problem either. I built a chassisEAR clip from a surplus peizo transducer glued to a battery clip. I plugged it into my phone's audio jack and used the voice recorder app to collect the sound. Since it was a single microphone clip I made multiple runs attached in different places including the front left wheel knuckle, the PTU, the transmission, the left and right rear wheel knuckles and lower arms plus 2 different spots on the rear diff casing. I ran each audio clip through audacity low pass filter of 300 HZ. The noise was the most prominent at the right rear wheel knuckle although I can hear it in the left rear knuckle too. It's even less audible in the differential. The interesting thing is that I have a new hub and bearing in the right rear and the noise didn't change when I replaced it. Yesterday, I reached up and grabbed the rear axles. I could move the axle middle part from side to side about a 1/4" and it emits a soft clunk when I reach either the inner CV or outer CV joint. Both act the same. I grasped the CV housing near the diff and I find I can wiggle them a bit. I made sure there is nice clean fluid in the diff and there are no leaks. I've attached a sound file from the right rear knuckle clamp microphone filtered to 300 Hz to eliminate unwanted frequencies. My questions are - does anyone have an idea what this could be? I'm worried that the bearing for the axle may be failing in the differential but can't find how to replace them. Does anyone know about these rear diff units that can shed some light on this issue? Any other ideas welcome. Thanks in advance. RtRear_knuckle.mp3
  2. Latest: Local mechanic will do it for $2200. He's done a lot of them he says.Unfortunately, He charges Ford list price for the parts ($1250 for PTU and $190 for intermediate shaft) when I could get them on-line for $900 and $128). But I know I don't want to do a job like this on the floor of my garage so I told him to go ahead. It's $1100 less than ford and he does good work. He has a caveat: 'as long as everything goes right since they have to remove the CAT and such. I already replaced the Y pipe 4 months ago so those should come off easily but the CAT to manifold and the O2 sensor I assume are the only real risks. Anything else?
  3. Thanks @enigma-2 When I took the driveshaft to the driveline shop, they told me that you can't separate the two halves of the driveshaft on this car as they are welded after the center bearing is put on. There is no bolt to hold the two halves together. Luckily, the rubber and bearing are good at this time because they said I'd have to replace the driveshaft if it goes. The $1400 was an off-the cuff estimate. He says he does a lot of these but I will be getting a formal quote later in the week. He said he uses nothing but Ford parts but I will ask about new versus rebuilt. I don't think Ford deals in rebuilt parts but could be mistaken. I can't believe it is in the front intermediate shaft because it seems very clear it is coming from the rear. I'll update when I know more.
  4. Does anyone know if the intermediate shaft bearing on my 2011 AWD Limited can be changed? I've been looking for info on changing the shaft itself, but I haven't found anything. I am thinking of replacing it and wondered if I need to get the PTU seal kit even though it is not leaking. Has anyone done this?
  5. UPDATE: I went to the ford dealer for diagnosis. They said it is the intermediate shaft bearing and since the PTU had oil stains on it, they want to replace the PTU as well. Four years ago, the PTU pushed out the black goo from the vent and made a mess under there. I cleaned up the spots in the garage, then did a drain and fill. There was a lot of pasty sludge and eventually the suction hose got clogged. I was able to put about 4-5 ounces in after that. I've been driving since then with no leaks. I put chassis ears on the PTU and didn't really hear anything abnormal, but I never put it on the intermediate shaft bearing. The dealer quoted me $3,100 to change the PTU and intermediate shaft. Two years ago, the same dealer quoted me $1600 for the PTU. So I went to my local mechanic who also gave me a quote of $1450 back then. He told me to check with Ford again because they extended the warranty and I may be covered. I went back to Ford and they said it was by VIN only and my car wasn't on the list. I suspect that it is only the intermediate shaft bearing but the dealer wants to change the PTU anyway. But since my local quy told me it would be around $1400 still, I'll probably just do it so I can stop worrying about it.
  6. I've looked for codes using Forscan and also a different OBD blue-tooth app. I didn't find any. The weirdest thing I found so far was pulling off the right rear bearing (which I replaced 3 months ago) and it has a small bit of noise in it. I put in a Timken bearing thinking it's one of the best, but I used my "chassisEar" type microphone pickup on that wheel knuckle and that's where I hear the most noise from. Given that the noise was there before and after replacing it, I don't think it is the bearing again, but I'm really scratching my head over this. That brake caliper was replaced because the original one failed but I can't remember if it was coincident with the noise starting. I checked out the caliper when I pulled the bearing yesterday and it still looks and operated like new. so I'm eliminating it as a suspect. I also hung the mic on the center bearing in the driveshaft but did not hear anything noteworthy. The driveshaft feels tight but I'll go at it again with a pry bar to see if there is any play in the universals. I'll also change the PTU fluid while I'm under there. I changed it about 15k miles ago and it was pretty gunked up but now it seems to be more fluid and maybe I can get more old gunk out with this change. If the sound changes at all, I'll suspect the PTU even though I can't hear it on the mic.
  7. I do live in a rustbelt state - Massachusetts - and the bearing looked like yours when I pulled it out. It took 15 minutes to get the bearing out once I got the 4 main bolts off that hiold it on. The secret, for those who don't know is using what I call the "bolt press" technique. Cut off one of the lug bolts about 1/4" from the hub and push it through - hammer it through actually. Remove one of the backing plate screws (I used the one on top) by using a 1/4" drive 8 mm socket on a small extension after aligning the missing lug hole over it. The 1/4" socket fits neatly thru the hole and the bolt removes with only a little persuasion. Place a small piece of metal over the backing plate hole that is left and push a 1/2" x 3" bolt through the lug hole, thread on a nut under the hub, and hand tighten until the bolt is wedged between the small piece of metal (resting on the backing plate to protect it) and the hub. Start turning the bolt which will press the hub outward. When it first starts to open, hit the hub on the opposite side with a hammer then continue to tighten the bolt. Do this a few times and the bearing will be out before you realize it. I saw this technique here When I did the other side 3 months ago, it was taking me a half a day and still made no progress - slide hammer and all. After I saw the video, it was out in 10 minutes. This trick really works! Now back to my original issue - the noise is still there. I've replaced all 4 wheel bearings (the last two were a bit noisy), and one front axle. I don't know if the center bearing in the drive shaft would "thrum" in time with wheel rotation, but I'll inspect it closer next. What else could b making the noise - all ideas welcome.
  8. It's a good thought. @enigma-2 My tires are Cooper RTS (Formerly CTS) with about 9/32" or more tread and look like new. I've also rotated them with no appreciable difference in noise level. I don't drive that much so these tires probably have less than 20K mi on them. The noise has been going on for 2 years or so. I had to replace one of the rear tires last year when I ran over a garden rake that fell in my garage. The tire was like new and it broke my heart. Again, no change in noise. I've replaced 3 out of four wheel bearings. The last change was front left and when I took off the knuckle and rotated the hub, I was surprise at how noisy it was. Unfortunately my chassisEAR mic didn't pick up anything out of the ordinary. And true to that finding, the noise is still there after replacing that bearing. My next thought is to just replace the rear drivers sde bearing since I didn't hear the front bearing noises, maybe it will turn out to be the source. Only another $100 to find out (and 3 hours of separating the old rusty one). I've been putting in Timken bearings rather than the $50 ebay knockoffs. Thanks for the reply.
  9. bb56

    Service Advance Trac light

    This happened in my 2011 Limited on two occasions. Once when I broke the rear wheel sensor as I changed out the wheel bearing. I had to wait 3 days for a new one but after putting it in, it took a few minutes for the lights to go out. But the car did drive fine for the 3 days. The other occasion was when I pulled the ABS fuse and turned off traction control using the left hand system menu. I had pulled the wheels and had the car on jack stands so I could troubleshoot a wheel noise and there was some pretty loud thunk/banging noises until I pulled the fuse and turned off traction control. These lights came on. I put the fuse in after putting th wheels back on and turned on Traction control and started the car. Lights went out. So it's possible you have a bad wheel sensor (or a tone ring broke and fell off the axle, or maybe the traction control setting in the systems menu got turned off somehow. I think Forscan will show any codes if you have it. With any luck, it's just a bad/loose/corroded fuse in the fusebox under the hood. It seems intermittent enough . Hope this helps you track down the problem.
  10. I know this is an older thread but I thought folks should know that when I broke the wheel speed sensor while changing a rear wheel bearing in my 2011 AWD limited, I had to wait a few days to get the replacement. During that time, all the same lights were on and the "Service AdvanceTrac" message came on every time I started the car. My new part is supposed to be here today or tomorrow, and I hope I don't have to reset the ABS or anything. UPDATE: It was plug and play simple. Once installed (10 minutes) all my warning lights on the dash went back to normal without having to reset anything.
  11. I'm about to replace my Strut mounts in my 2011 Edge AWD Limited. I decided to replace the actual strut too even though they feel great. I figured since I have to take the strut apart anyway... So I ordered the Motocraft strut mounts from Rock Auto. They arrived in one day which was pretty impressive. The problem is that one mount was in it's original box with no packing while the other was wrapped tight with shipping paper. Both original product boxes were shipped in a larger box with air pillow packing. The product box with no packing showed where the mounting bolts were poking almost through the cardboard. So upon opening that slightly damaged box, I see a new mount that was slightly cocked to one sice and i could wiggle the two halves. When I tried to straighten the two halves, they came apart and the ball bearings and races were open. Since the balls stuck to both races, I moved them to one and noticed that it looks like at least one, possibly 2 balls are missing as you can see in the following pic. I also noticed there wasn't much grease in there. So not knowing if this mount was defective or not, I opened the second box and fount it tightly wrapped in paper and not crooked. I gently pulled the two halves and it came apart as easily as the first one! It also looked like 1 or two bearings were missing so I'm thinking this is normal. After closing them back up and spinning it several times, the balls looked pretty evenly distributed. So the only thing I can think of is that they don't have enough grease and I packed them with wheel bearing grease and snapped the two halves together again. So before I put them in the car, can anyone with hands-on experience with these strut mounts tell me if I'm really way off base in thinking that: 1) It is normal for these mounts to come apart so easily. 2) That it is normal to see spaces between the roller balls in this type of bearing 3) That Ford makes them with just a small amount of grease and that's why they go bad so easily. I am assuming that when fitted over the spring and strut, the two halves are clamped tightly together and will be OEM quality fitment.The last thing I want to do is this job twice after finding out these are bad mounts. I hope to do this job this week so please send your thoughts. Thanks much. Bart
  12. oops! I see my error. I was trying to track down all that has gone on with your brakes to make sure we didn't miss anything. Good luck Dean
  13. Hi Dean, I'm out of ideas here. I remember the backing up and hard stops 'seemed' to firm them up but it really didn't help me either. If all wheels were hot with shiny rotors after riding the brakes, then they appear to be working - just poorly , right? As far as I can tell, your brakes were fine but making noise in December '19 but you said you needed calipers and pads. Did that happen? Did the brakes feel good afterwards? What about February (2020 I assume) when they said it was ABS related and you need a tone ring? I would invest in getting Forscan running and look at all the codes that may be in the ABS system. A Tone Ring would make noise if it came loose (there is a thread on this forum about someone fixing theirs and the noise it makes.) Even though I use Forscan, and no codes were set, I found a road with dirt edges and got my ABS to kick in so that I knew it was working with no codes. I can't say for sure that I managed to get the rear ABS going though. I would manually check the Tone rings by tapping each one lightly with a screwdriver to see if they are tight on the drive shaft. All that said, I don't know how it makes the pedal low unless the HCU is fouled with air and it's not kicking in or stuck in an open position somehow but I'm getting out of my depth quickly here. When my caliper was bad, the brake pedal would go close enough to the floor that my other foot could not fit under the pedal. Needless to say I was driving very defensively. If I think of something else, i'll post. If you find a good local garage, or even a brake shop, maybe they can diagnose it for you. The dealer had their chance. But check forscan for ABS codes. If you fix it, let us know what did it.
  14. Hey Dean, I feel your pain because this should be straightforward - right? I was frustrated on how long it took me to fix it. To answer your question - how to confirm the rear are not engaging - a few thoughts come to mind: 1) Are the rotors shiny/clean? if so, they are likely getting at least some pad contact. 2) Try riding the brakes (foot on the brakes while driving forward) for a quarter mile or so and see if the rear wheels feel as hot as the front. Even better if you have an Infrared contact-less thermometer. My daughter had a sticking brake pad and she came home complaining it was grinding loudly. I got my thermometer and aimed it through the wheel openings at the rotor and caliper. It was 200 deg F while the others were 90 deg F. So this may give you an easy way to tell. Harbor freight had them for cheap when I got mine and I use it for many things. I suspect if they aren't working right the temp will be noticeably cooler than the fronts. (for the record, she never uses her parking brake and the calipers did not adjust causing a lot of play in the piston-to-pad opening, which in turn, caused the pad to tilt and bind) 3) Not sure if you regard the "e brake" as Emergency Brake or Electronic parking brake. The Emergency brake to me is also the manual parking brake using the left most pedal under the dash. If you don't use it, the rear brakes don't adjust properly, if at all. If you have electronic parking brake, there is a button someplace to set it on. or off. All that said, can you drive with the parking brake set easily or do you feel them trying to hold the car still. Mine will let me go forward (because I forget to release it (LOL) but the dash will ding-ding me until I do. The fact is I can move the car fairly easily by stepping on the gas, but it holds the car on a hill in neutral. One of the things I did to try to get my bad caliper to adjust was to go back and forth alternately pushing on the brakes then the parking brake. I must have done it 20 times but mine didn't change - the caliper was simply broken. My 2011 has the manual parking brake. When I applied it, I could see that the cable at the top of the caliper pulled the lever on the caliper toward the front of the car which causes the piston to push against the pads. Even though my caliper was bad, my problem was that the piston should stay close to the pad even after releasing the parking brake. Mine didn't - it went all the way back in. It doesn't sound like this is your problem though, but if you remove the caliper, is it nice and tight to the rotor or does it come off easily? It should be a little stiff if it is adjusting correctly. ** IMPORTANT ** this just occurred to me: When you put your new pads on a while back, how did you get the rear pistons back into the calipers? There is a special procedure to rotate it back (like screwing it in.) BUT: when you do, you have to align the pin on the brake pad to the slot on the piston! Check out MacBWT's video here to see what I mean. If the pin on the pad is not in the slot on the piston, you will lose a lot of braking power in the rear and the parking brake may never adjust it properly. You may want to double check this. Hope this helps. BB56 (Bart)
  15. I wish I knew more about the e brake Dean but I've not seen one. Can someone else jump in here? If the rear brake caliper pistons are traveling because they are not adjusting, they'll gobble up a lot of the fluid from the Master cylinder. One thing I remember is that if I very quickly double pumped the brake pedal, it would be higher the second time - meaning additional fluid from the reservoir was pushed to the brake caliper before it pushed it back after releasing the pedal from the first push. As a troubleshooting step, I would try several times to quickly double pump during a hard stop (remember to check behind you...LOL) to see if the pedal behaves better on the second push. If it seems to grab higher, then something is using up the fluid from the first push. I had to do it several times and if I was real quick the pedal was much better. If you have someone who can push the brake pedal while the car is up on a jack stand, you could look at the rear caliper after removing the tire. See if the first push is moving the caliper piston (the inner pads are pushed by the piston, the outer pads are held in place by the caliper.) Movement is very slight. The whole caliper slides on the two pins that must be greased and move freely as the piston squeezes the inner pad, rotor, and outer pad together. If either the inner pad or the outer pad is sticking, they could be flexing which would consume more fluid. In general, after my neighbor pointed that out, I took the whole caliper off to check its operation and found the piston fully retracted into the caliper. My pads were slightly worn thus giving the piston too much room to travel. So you can pull the caliper, clean the pad mounting surfaces and use brake grease to lube them slightly, make sure the two slide bolts move freely and have plenty of grease under the boots. I'm not a know-it-all, but I am reflecting on why it took me so darn long to figure out a soft brake pedal condition where my pedal was close to the floor but still stopping the car. I think the front brakes were doing all the work. I bled them and found no real difference. I knew the booster was good (no noises and it would pull the brake pedal down when I started the car with my foot on it.) So I bit the bullet and replaced the master cylinder which was a waste of time and money, but thought it was not bled properly again. And finally someone pointed me to inspect the calipers and pads closely. I already checked that the pads were still pretty thick, but went back again as suggested and there it was. To me, brakes should be child's play, but I did not pay attention to details and I suffered time and money for it. If you're still uncertain, maybe try putting new pads in the rear. The thicker material may improve the pedal and then you know something is up in those calipers. Hope this helps because it drove me crazy until I replaced the caliper ($90 at NAPA for Motorcraft replacement.) Good luck! Bart
  16. hey Dean, How does the parking brake feel? Will it hold the car still while in gear? If the parking brake is not adjusted properly, it will not adjust the rear caliper pistons. It could be possible that the rear brakes are not adjusting. When the parking brake is applied, the cable should be very tight at each rear wheel. I've seen where the cable and it's shield get water in them and rust to the point where they can't move. Maybe you want to check for proper operation of the parking brake system.
  17. @1004ronThis problem isn't limited to 2015 and up. My 2011 had the same fluttering air shields because the pins were loose and rattling in their holes. On inspection, the fender well pins exhibited the same behavior. So when an Amazon package arrived for me with hi-density-poly foam panels, I sliced off 1/4" pieces and made 1"x1" square washers. I popped each of the plastic rivets with one of the body tools that removes them, put the newly minted washers on them and popped them back in. Luckily it was black foam. No more noises! It took me only 2 years to find where the noise was coming from-LOL. It's apparent that the new fastening system will not lend itself to my fix, but you might think about winding hi-density foam strips around the string (like a twist tie) before winding the string around the new fastener. It will probably last longer. The foam is pretty robust and stiff. Mine's been fine for nearly 2 years now. Good luck!
  18. It might make sense to check out all the things that could have been damaged by the broken ball joint mishap. If the wheel went under the car or ended up turning violently right or left, it could have damaged the half shaft, the steering rack, tie rod (inner or outer), etc. I would go back into diagnosis mode and try to figure out possible causes. It is possible that the lower control arm is faulty or not torqued in properly. The metal on metal grinding noise occurs only when the car is in motion so could the hub have been damaged? Is the wheel on tight? Try jacking it up from under the control arm enough to get a crowbar under the tire and try to lever the wheel up/down to see if/what is making noise. Maybe the brake backing plate is bent? Tell us more about exactly what your doing when the noise occurs (driving straight, straight but over bumps, turning, turning with bumps, turning left/right, etc. Maybe someone will think of something. If you're still stuck, take it to a front end shop. Good luck.
  19. Are you getting any codes? Could be as simple as the sensor has moved or has rust/corrosion between it and the tone ring. Look at them from the back side of the brake plate where the axle goes through the hub. I had a similar with my old explorer where the ring was dirty/crusty and I cleaned it and wiped off the sensor. All was good. There is another post on this forum that talks about a "cracked tone ring" that slips making the abs system think the wheel is sliding instead of rolling. The tone ring should be solidly on the half shaft. Try tapping it lightly with the back end of a screwdriver to see if it's loose. If it is, check out the solution found under Tone Ring Repair on this forum.
  20. Hi All, With all due respect to Macbwt's videos, I think this is the most straightforward video tutorial on how to do this job. It's short and to the point and does not leave anything out (except, of course, the banging/heating/swearing and surprises of the big rusted nuts and bolts below.) It gives a good look at the steps needed and if you're lucky enough to have the right tools, it sets reasonable expectations that it can be accomplished in a relatively short time. I'll be doing it this week after I borrow a breaker bar and sockets for the big bolt. He makes the upper bolts and panel preparation look simple. Wish me luck! After seeing it, I thought it would be good to share if you haven't seen it.
  21. I just installed KYB's in the rear of my 2011 AWD Limited. I have the power liftgate so there were some extra steps involved than in this video. A few things I learned: 1. The liftgate motor can be removed without disconnecting the battery. The service manual says to remove fuse 9 in the fusebox under the left dash. After doing that, I could disconnect it safely. The service manual says that it needs to be calibrated after reassembly. (My lift struts were in great shape so it was rock solid open without the motor attached.) 2. I only needed to remove the rear most plastic body pin holding the side panel to the floor. The shock mount is pretty close to the rear so you don't have to move the side panels out much. 3. I really need a 1/2" ratchet. The video says a 24 mm and 22 mm sockets are needed, but my 15/16" and 13/16" box end wrenches fit perfectly and that's all I had that would fit. The bottom bolts have a lot of thread lock on them so every turn requires a lot of force. I didn't need to use heat or anything. The bolt/nut is situated so I could use my foot and stand on the end of the wrench (about a foot long which gives me approx 160 ft lbs) and they moved enough to start the laborious process of step - move the wrench one flat, step again, etc. The bolt had a wrench that jammed against the floor so this worked well. 4. The KYB's came with this ridiculous instruction sheet full of pictograms. I've done shocks many times, but you may as well have given me an emoji dictionary. None of it made sense. One area of confusion was the upper thrust washers were different sizes - one slightly larger than the other. I have no idea which way they need to go (larger one, then rubber grommet, then thru the body, then rubber grommet, then smaller one, then the bigger nut. I hope that's right.) 5. Torquing the upper one by myself was impossible. The upper shell underneath would turn, so I used my 1/4" impact in one hand and held the shell with the other until it would not go anymore. The lock nut was easy with two wrenches. The first shock took me 2 hours with the manual wrenching and initial tear down of the interior and lift motor. The second one took an hour with the manual wrenching then the reassembly of the interior. The final step was to initialize the liftgate motor. I closed the rear hatch manually like the service manual said. Replacing fuse 9 was no picnic. It is directly in line with the hood release cable so the little fuse puller would not go in straight. I fiddled with it for about 10 minutes before I used a 3" section of 1/4" dowel with a channel cut in the end to fit the minifuse. It fir snug so it was in in 2 minutes. At that point, I hit the dash button and the hatch opened, then dropped down a few inches. Pushed the button again and it closed properly, the next push opened perfectly. I need some better sockets and wrenches if I'm going to continue this level maintenance on my Edge. It just turned 100K miles and rides like a dream.
  22. Will be interested to hear what fixed it.
  23. When this happened to me, the rear brake caliper was bad. The rear has automatic adjustment everytime you use the park brake. My caliper would no longer ratchet to close the gap between the piston and the inner brake pad. When my neighbor suggested a bend or stuck pad, I examined them more closely and saw a 1/16" or larger gap between the pad and the piston. Nothing I did would adjust the caliper piston so I replaced the caliper, bled the brakes and voila! Normal brakes again. Check pad clearance on the rear inner pads, and make sure the caliper closes rock solid when someone steps on the brake. My park brake worked ok but not great so that was another clue. A third clue was that the rear disk surfaces were not clean, meaning the brakes were not closing tightly on the disk. Hope it helps!
  24. Slamming on the brakes may have caused a brake pad to stick or the caliper fail with enough space between the caliper piston and the pad to accept a lot of fluid. I had a caliper fail where the ratchet adjustment mechanism would not work and keep the gap very small. The result was soft and squishy brakes! if you examine the calipers in the rear, see if the inner pads have any clearance to the piston. If so, check that out first. When my booster failed, the pedal would sink very low and lose the power assist so I had to push hard and actually pump the brake pedal. The booster also made a noise like an air (vacuum, really) leak when I pressed the pedal.
  25. So even a 4WD will stay still wile spinning the wheel with only one wheel off the ground? Seems counter-intuitive. I was thinking I need to raise at least one front and one back wheel off the ground to get the car to sit there while spinning its wheels. Even then, I'm not so sure. Has anyone done this successfully?
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