Splitpi

Or better yet, ford shoudl do it.. call it "ecoboost" :shades:

Iphone 3Gs

This is great news. I'm very excited about the 2010 Taurus SHO. I am thinking next year I'll purchase one. Turbo powered cars are the cats meow in my opinion.

Zymol is well regarded, I just have had bad luck with it as it all seems to leave a streak for me. If you are starting from fresh and really want a nice shine. I would wash the car using a regular car wash soap. Then dry the car with microfiber towels only. Now for the first step.... clay the car. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/detailingclay.html Now wax the car with a carnuba wax. Remember never clay or wax the car in direct sunlight. The heat will dry out the wax too fast. Then buff with a clean microfiber towel.

Any ideas on the torque values to use on the manifold bolts?

I have the red on my eclipse for about 3 years now. I touched it up just before this last winter. Not that it needed it, I just wanted to make it nice and bright red again. Paint hasn't chipped or come off, just faded a bit. Just make sure you clean the calipers very good before applying. Its an easy thing to do, just takes a few hours of your time.

Time is only relevant to dissipation rate of the temperature. If we had some wonderful miraculous pipe that allows no heat to be lost whether the gas travels 1 inch or 1000 miles in the pipe, the pressure will remain the same. PV = nRT. Anything else will violate the first law of Thermodynamics. It is not a matter of distance. It is a matter of the cooling of the gas in the pipe. Engineer.

Wait till 2012 when the CBO estimates the fed will return to trillion + dollar a year deficits under the current proposed budgets and spending plans. 2011 the deficit is projected to ONLY be 0.5 Trillion dollars then the next year it will drastically skyrocket as bills for the new initiatives that are in the budget and legislation are due. The Directors Blog detailing this far more in depth, and with better expertise than I could do, at the CBO can be found here: http://cboblog.cbo.gov/?p=216

Which does not change the volume of the gas after it leaves the combustion chamber. It is at peak temperature. Any point after that it is cooling and loosing pressure/velocity. Once again the velocity is a direct result of the temperature. The mass/volume of the gas is not changing once it leaves combustion chamber. The turbine produces power from the energy. The loss of heat energy leads to reduced velocity which leads to less power generated by the turbine. This is by definition conservation of energy: "The increase in the internal energy of a system is equal to the amount of energy added by heating the system, minus the amount lost as a result of the work done by the system on its surroundings." You and I are saying the results are the same. You are arguing from incorrect stance that violates the laws of thermodynamics however. What I am discussing which IS what is occurring is that power delivered by the turbocharger is result of an isochoric process. I.e. a volume of gas held constant with heat applied [via previous combustion] to increase pressure/velocity. By moving the turbo away from the point of combustion the gas cools and looses energy because the heat energy is lost. NOT because it changed velocity. Velocity is a resultant of the lost heat energy. The point I am making is that the energy in the exhaust that drives the turbine is the temperature of the gas and volume/mass of the gas that left the combustion chamber. The velocity of that gas is derived from that and IS tied to it. Volume does not change so the velocity is a direct result of the temperature. I have shown you the math proving my case. If you disagree please produce a different equation solve it. That is horribly incorrect. The velocity of the gas is because of the temperature. The reason why the velocity of the gas as it exits the tail pipe is lower than when it exits the combustion chamber is because the heat energy has decreased and there by the resultant velocity decreases. Temperature has everything to do with it.

Please stop arguing this, it is a matter of thermodynamics. PV = nRT Pressure * Volume = Average Moleculer Kinetic Energy. P = absolute pressure V = Volume n = number of moles of molecules R = universal gas constant = 8.3145 J/mol K T = absolute Temperature V has not changed. n has not change R is a constant and cannot change So P is directly related to T under our discussion. As temperature decreases the pressure decreases. Thus the turbo is less efficient due to the decreased temperature of the gas when it reaches the turbine. The pressure is a direct result of the temperature. The inverse is true on the intake side of things as we try to increase the volume of gas inside the combustion chamber by maintaining the Pressure and decreasing the Temperature via an intercooler. Or if you prefer we could solve the same via Maxwell Speed Distribution: Vrms = SQRT(3RT/M) Vrms = velocity [root mean square] R = universal gas constant = 8.3145 J/mol K M = molar mass T = Temperature Again the velocity is directly related to the temperature because the mass is held constant under this scenario and R is a constant.

Turbochargers are also called heat engines. The turbine portion of the turbo converts heat energy from the exhaust into power. This power then drives the compressor wheel which allows the engine to burn fuel more efficiently and produce greater power... wash and repeat. As the exhaust gasses cool they loose energy despite the same volume of gas reaching the turbine, whether the turbo is mounted close to the engine at the header or far from the engine at the end of the tail pipe. However the energy in that volume of gas will vary greatly and not produce the same amount of power from the turbo. Volume of gas did not change. Only the energy of that gas. And that energy is related to its temperature. As the heat energy dissipates the velocity of that gas goes down. This is a direct correlation due to the energy loss from the gasses cooling. Turbochargers are heat engines [atleast the turbine portion which is used to produce power].

This post is worthless with out photos I am glad your wife is safe and sound. It makes me feel better about my wife driving her edge now.

EBC Greenstuff are great pads. They have good stopping, with low noise and low dust. About the best compromise of all three factors. ... in my opinion. That said, it still won't make up for larger rotors and calipers. But it does help.

Ditto... for the cost they should include SS T-Bolt Clamps But if it works ... then great!

Is the intake tube plastic?

About 15-16 in the city [which is ~70% of my driving with AWD] Highway I get about 19-21. But this is with winter blend and below zero temps for the winter. I'm waiting for the summer blend, it should improve gas mileage.

Mine has come on when on over alot of Ice and mash the pedal. It also comes on when I'm going sideways in snow covered parking lots for the fun of it.

That doesn't sound efficient to me. By the time the exhaust hits the muffler ~ 5-6 feet down the pipe, it has cooled and lost a great deal of its power. Inaddition, the throttle response would be greatly pronounced due to the time for the exhaust pressure to travel down the turbo and back up the massive amount of coolside tubing. But I suppose a fairly aggressive pitch turbine wheel will make up for the decreased exhaust pressure.... and the turbo would run cooler too, so oil baking wouldn't be a great concern.

Sanding the aluminumized steel will take the sealing aluminum off of the pipes and could cause quicker rusting. So if you sand, then DO seal it as quickly as possible with high temp paint. I have Duplicolor high temp paint on my turbo chargers and heat shields [for other cars]. After a while it does turn to like a "powder" on the turbo. The heat shields still look great. I think on an exhaust past the headers, it'll be just fine. But the prep work will improve the adhesion. Here is what I would recommend. 1) Buy new and not installed. 2) sand with a course paper 60 to 80 grit. 3) clean thoroughly with alcohol. 4) spray adhesion promoter and paint prep. 5) Paint [2 to 3 coats] 5.1) Use a hair dryer on high or a heat gun to dry and cure the paint 6) Install the exhaust 7) Touch up scratches. 8) Drive it like you stole it to heat up the paint and finish the "cure" of it. I personally would go with a shiny metallic color. I like the look of clean and shiney under the body as much as possible... but that's just me.

Drive shaft?

I think a single will be easier to install and build than a dual turbo. You only need to route the exhaust on one side to the other. The Intercooler piping is greatly simplified.

Usually the issues results from lowering on "worn" in vehicles where the CV's are worn at a particular angle and then by lowering the vehicle you are in effect changing the geometry of the suspension in relation to one another. This causes the CV's to operate at different positions than when they were "worn" in. Resulting in breakage as a worst case scenario. Best case is there is no effect on the CV's. Anyone know if the suspension is fully adjustable on the edge? Meaning +/- 2 (or more) degrees of Chamber and toe? Toe is always done, but chamber is not. I.e. on 95-99 eclipses for example, camber is set and you must get kits to make chamber adjustable.

Manual states NOT to run E85. I run 15% though here in Iowa. But there is a world of difference between 15% and 85% 5.7 times to be precise.

With all the stations switching to HD... I wonder if anyone is going to build an HD receiver and Monitor into a headrest? A 720p ... would be awesome with a Transflective layer to squash sunlight distortion.

I agree, the tune is what is gaining the power. But the power is possible because of the free'ed up intake trac. As far as the snorkel, I would think if someone cut up the air box and put like a 2 to 2.5 inch intake pipe in place of the snorkel and leading into the fender well [with a screen on the end] it would provide a good amount of performance [with tune of course]. And still suction in cold air from outside the engine compartment.