beezerk

Hope this helps - these are for the big 24 pin connector. Connector #s are the ones I used in my config... See http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3421 Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red #02 Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue (remote-out) Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow/Green Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Purple/Red --- #08 Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White #21 Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown --- #11 Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Purple #12 Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange --- #09 Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green #22 Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow --- #10 Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White #23 Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

See these threads for a simple solution to add an after market amp/sub to a factory system - I'm thinkin' a couple 370lb. MTX 22"s... http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/subwo.../jackHammer.cfm http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3421 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3451

No need to pull the battery. From under the driver's side dash, use a VERY sharp razor knife and cut a slit (carefully!) in the grommet next to the wiring harness. Electric tape the power cable to a wire coat hanger and just fish it through w/ that.

You're doing the opposite of my upgrade (factory head driving BA 5x7s with an MTX amp/Kicker sub via the Re-Q). My stock system was sub-less, so I can't offer an opinion on the merits of Ford's... If you want to maintain your L/R balance & F/R fade capability and keep the install straightforward, I recommend the 5 channel Re-Q5, it's about ~$20 more than the Re-Q street (got both of mine at millionbuy on eBay - good etailer).

I also swapped out the factory speakers, and verfed the colors, +/- matched...

I can strongly recommend either an MTX Re-Q or Re-Q5. I just installed a Re-Q (L/R/S outs) in the wife's Edge to add an amp and sub, see http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?showtopic=3421. And I've had a Re-Q5 (F&R L/R/S outs + iPod in) in my '02 300M for 14 months running about 2KW of amps and speakers - it most definitely hits! The Re-Qs compensates for both factory head unit EQs beautifully, at least my ears think so... In my experience, you MUST disable any EQ in the amps and let the Re-Q do it's job. Check http://www.reqsound.com/ for more details.

White was more of a tan than a white - here's the wire colors going to the back of the head unit - I've noted the pin# (larger 24 pin connector of the 2) for the signals I spliced into: Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Red #02 Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Blue (remote-out) Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Yellow/Green Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Purple/Red (didn't use this) --- #08 Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White #21 Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown --- #11 Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Purple #12 Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange --- #09 Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green (didn't touch this) #22 Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow (didn't touch this) --- #10 Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White (didn't touch this) #23 Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue (didn't touch this) Mounted the Re-Q and the sub's amp under the front pass seat - see the pic. Good clearance, protected, and easy access to settings, but then my pass seat is a manual... Ran the +12V sub amp cable through the driver's side firewall bushing containing the main fuse block's wire bundle. Made a small cut (very carefully!) in the boot next to the bundle and pushed the 8ga power cable through it. For the Re-Q's power, I Yed off the amp's +12V and Ground connectors. Don't confuse the Re-Q's rmt-IN (from #02 above) and rmt-OUT (to the sub's amp).

Spliced into the front L/R outputs for the Re-Q inputs and skipped the bass blockers. Set the Re-Q's low-pass at 110Hz. The combination of the sub (100W driving a vented Kicker 8") and the Boston Acoustics 5x7s has provided a huge improvement in listenability for a small amount of coin! Thanks for all your help!

I've never been a fan of active bass blockers - much prefer passive crossover, pre-amplification. Just looking to protect the speakers. The OEM config has the 4 door speakers only - don't know if the head's high-pass is active since the car did not come with a factory sub. I'm keeping the factory head to drive the door speakers. Dropping in 2pr of old BA CX8 5x7 coaxs - still sound great; from a 93 Explorer -> 99 Expedition -> this 08 Edge... I am a major cheap@@s ;-) Your comment on the sub-out has me re-thinking my approach for adding the re-Q/amp/sub. I was going to tap into the front L/R outs of the head as the source for the re-Q/amp/sub, but maybe I should just use the head's sub out as a source - Y/N?

Muy Bien! Seems you've done quite a bit of audio mods - So... one more question. Given that the re-Q/amp will have a low-pass crossover point of ~100-125Hz, I'm thinking of adding bass blockers on the 4 speakers for a poor man's high-pass crossover above ~100Hz. Are the bass blockers a reasonable solution? My thinking is to kill the low freq to the 4 speakers that the sub will be taking care of...

I have an 08 SEL w/ the base CDx6/MP3 and 4 speakers. I'm going to add an aftermkt amp and sub via an MTX re-Q converter. I've searched the forum and haven't been able to find instructions for removing the head unit. (1) Does anyone out there have 'em? It's not obvious to me how to pop the center console bezel... Also, (2) can anyone confirm that there is NO external amp in this factory config? Thanks in advance...

'08 SEL FWD - 9/2/08 - Sanderson Ford, Glendale, AZ - FoMoCredit 100% @ 0%/72mo base: 27730 white sand tricoat: 495 pwr liftgate: 490 18" chrome hubcaps: 750 (shoved down my throat, would NOT swap, still pissed) delivery: 755 $300 under invoice: -1702 doc fee: 175 tags & title: 489 --------- TOTAL pre-tax: 29181

Have an '08 SEL w/ the CD/MP3 changer. Plays original and burned (.cda) 80min/700MB CD-Rs just fine. HOWEVER, it will NOT play an MP3 CD. All I ever get is "Bad Disk" displayed after the head unit tries to initialize. This happens with 80min/700MB CD-Rs containing a single .mp3 in the root directory to multiple .mp3s in multiple sub-directories, with and without playlist files. Author software is Nero and/or Roxio's Creator Classic on 2 different XP machines. These MP3 CD play jus' fine in Alpine, Pioneer, and Sony units. The manual is (HA!) of no help. Anyone out there with some thoughts besides a warranty punt on the stereo? 11/1 - Tried a 8x burn per some other posts - no joy. If anyone from FoMoCo scans this forum, can you tell me where the stereo specs can be found?

PHOENIX, AZ AREA - Looking to do a trade for wheels and tires with similar mileage - terms/$ TBD, NO shipping... My 18" set of #64G chromes/TPMS for a set of #64R or #64P painted with TPMS. I have 3 weeks / 500 miles on the OEM Michilin Latitude HPs. Reply this thread and we can take it offline.

New to this forum, having just picked up an '08 SEL for my better half. Came with the standard option 'Premium AM/FM stereo, digital clock, six-disc in-dash CD changer player, MP3 capability, four speakers, auxiliary audio controls on steering wheel' - there'a a mouthful... 1st thing I'm doing is ripping out the stock speakers (ears... are... bleeding...) and adding an amp/sub combo - the stock head unit stays (for now). Before I crack open the dash, does anyone know if this head unit has RCA outs? If no RCAs (which would SUCK, but would not be unexpected), has anyone out there tapped the speaker outs for the sub amp's input? If so, how and where? Also, anyone know where to find the head unit's pin outs?