Mikula

 

I haven't see a detailed explanation showing how the JLT can works to compare it to the other manufacturers detailed animated graphics/schematics - JLT don't really explain the true workings of their system on their web site.

 

Haven't heard of any upset owners of the more expensive systems.

 

This JLT one has perked my interest, but I'll not be spending any money on it until the operating reviews or good, or detailed explanation convinces me that it actually works as they have it configured on the Edge Sport.

I purchased mine today from JLT. I'm positive it will do what it is supposed to. I can also say, that without testing both, it will be near impossible to compare with anything else. There won't really be any way to know what you're not catching in there. Weather, and driving habits seem to be a factor in how much junk they catch as well.

Overall, catching something is better than catching nothing, and as howie stated (and it sort of makes sense to me) on this type of vehicle, catching from 1 side will do the job for this application.

Great info Special_K . I know that it takes time and effort to produce feedback like this and more time to post it for the community . Your effort is mucho appreciated . Now Mikula where is the info on that Chinese CX Racing IC you like. And I am not talking about MSRP........ crickets. LOL

 

* Mikula, Just joking around no hard feelings .

GT500 Has the logs for stock vs CXRacing intercooler. It's on one of his threads here. You can bet my cheap ass isn't buying either one until i see some 1/4 mile results from them.

My favorite is when people run tests on a dyno, and claim "oh it added 20hp".

It added 20hp with the hood open and fans blowing directly into it. not really surprising. Real world tests are where the benefit vs cost can be better evaluated. Of course, then you have to take into account the surface you're on, and a boat load of weather conditions at the time.

I'm more of a researcher than most consumers. Generally people read something online and take it as gospel. It can confuse some of the people that don't take the time to read the fine print, then wonder why they didn't gain 0.7 seconds in the quarter mile when installing an IC or other upgrades.

I'm just here to help with finding facts, not opinions. apparently, that is under appreciated around here.

No daddy money here, bought my expensive TeamRXP kit on my own... well maybe it is daddy money since Im a daddy now lol

My wife calls me daddy, does that count?

FORD makes one that fits there (FT4Z-17B807). How did you find that random aftermarket one you posted the link for and not come across this first?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-FT4Z-17B807-Bumper-Protector/dp/B00WGU6RWC

Hell I've missed it too. Was looking for one several months ago. My dog just loves to launch out of the back right from the paint!

I'm quite hesitant to bring my Edge into the dealer only to have them replace it with the same faulty part, and then have to do this whole foam fix again in another ~15k miles when the rattle starts again. Not to mention I'll be outside of warranty by then. Right now I'm more than okay with the foam doughnut fix.

I liked the foam idea, but was also concerned about having to fix it in the future. I used some pieces of wire (or an old coat hanger would work) to make it more of a permanent solution. i made a video about it here:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24176-solved-noise-or-rattle-above-40mph/

 

At the end of the day if you have questions please feel free to call Vinny and ask questions. He is more than happy to answer them for you. Ask him about other vehicles as they do sell a Base kit with billet aluminum can and various nylon fittings with mounting brackets. I saw a need for a simple solution to a major problem for the Edge Sport, and I contacted someone who I knew could build a kit. They did that and they made it happen in less than a week. Sometimes all you have to do is ask.

 

Now all I need to do is get a big, fat front splitter and a snorkel hood scoop made and all will be perfect... I'm just kidding.

 

Happy Motoring to all

 

Howie

Is this the proper link to the one you are referring to?

https://www.jlttruecoldair.com/ZenCart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=524_526_590&zenid=431s33r7fa5r46c5r16j8iaca4

It says in stock as of now... I need to get me one. That price is worth paying. those insanely priced other kits are a no go for me! Some of us don't have daddy to pay our bills or buy our vehicles for us!

my first hand experience, as stated before, is the exact opposite of understeer. there is something wrong with your pudding. the lot you were testing in most likely had gravel and oils built up from lack of use. not the best or most accurate test. on the road, you may experience oversteer, as I did.

The cxracing is nice for no cutting or modifications to stock parts.

 

The UP intercooler has the best core and the best flow.

 

FWIW Cxracing uses Cheap china cores... I've only used them for temporary use on my other builds until a custom intercooler comes in.

We have yet to see any data to support that statement.

AERODYNAMICS

-Bird poop on the hood

-Turtle Wax

WEIGHT REDUCTION

-Lexan windows

-Atkins Diet

-Remove Tail lights

GT500R

 

You still happy with the results of your IC?

Who is your contact at CXRacing?

For the money I think CXRacing is the way to go. almost half the price of ultimate performance. If you're going for every tenth you can squeeze out of it, ultimate performance (on paper) seems to have the best overall, but we haven't seen any logs to confirm any of this yet.

 

Hi guys,

 

My first post in here!

 

First, about me!! Eliane, female, 33 yo, I live in Canada (Montreal).

 

Since August of 2016, I'm a VERY proud owner of a 2016 Ruby Red Edge Sport , with ALL the packages (heated and cooled front seats, all driver assists, panoramic roof, nav, etc.).

 

In October 2016, I tuned it with Livernois Motorsports & Engineering software. Not the same car after that!! That thing was suddenly alive in Sport Mode. It's a definite beast! But I cannot get it to break that 6.0 seconds 0-60 MPH barrier! It's probably on me though (not enough gas while brakes are applied before rolling)

 

I'm on the way to have my exhaust replaced by a custom made one in a local shop here in Montreal. I'll keep you posted when it's done!

 

 

Make sure they put mufflers on that custom exhaust! I built my own 2.5" exhaust and the humming drone inside the cabin was unbearable until I went back in there, cut some piping out, and added mufflers. here is the thread i started on that:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23972-custom-exhaust-on-my-sport/

Welcome to the forums! Turn that traction control off, and you'll get well under 6.0 seconds 0-60

Not sold on the results unfortunately.

 

No slips or proof? What were the 60's on each of the times, that alone could have made the difference in times. What about mph?

 

I would deem this still inconclusive.

 

Thank you.

I'm with you. one hour difference at the track can be substantially different results. I have slips to prove that.

1st run at 1:05pm ran 13.82 @ 97 with 2.10 60ft

2nd run at 2:14pm ran 13.56 @ 99 with 2.05 60ft

I put a booger on the steering wheel for the second run, so I can claim on the web I gained .3 tenths of a second in the 1/4 mile from a simple "Mucus Mod"

See why its kind of silly to judge off a time slip with no other info? We need more testing, logs, and info to be sure of what it is actually accomplishing. We all understand you are trying to pioneer parts and such for the rest of us. Believe me, we are appreciative, and your thanks are well deserved. But you guys seem to prematurely toot horns without any substantiating evidence.

You say "we're pioneering" then follow it with "buy it for yourself and post facts for us". That's a bit backwards, as pioneers tend to do the testing and give us the results.

I recently noticed that during acceleration in a turn, the AWD display will show more power going to the rear wheel than front. You can see it at 0:05-0:06 in the below video.

I didn't need that display to tell me that, based on the one time... and one time only... when the back end came around when I was taking corners a bit sportier than I should have been.

pooped my pants and never did that again!

 

It's hard to believe that someone could come up with a product so far below the current going price, but it would most certainly draw a lot of interest.

 

Why don't they rent a Sport for a day to do the mock-up?

 

 

 

For what it is, I can't believe people get away with charging so much for them. I can see the fittings costing a good penny. When I was building my mustang, paying $15 a fitting for fuel lines gave me sticker shock

But for a can and some tubing, $500 is absolutely insane. Billet or not, I can't justify something like that. I mean, a stainless steel overflow tank is like $50, so where does the other $450 come from? I don't know much about catch cans, so maybe I shouldn't even be talking here!

I thought the signature light was the DRL. If they aren’t , then I don’t have them either or it’s not turned on for that mode.

Don't go confusing me now! the signature lights are the "triangles" in the bumper.

Mikula, did you change the DRL or kept it with the Low beams?

Truthfully, I have my DRL turned off, because i hate the look of them. Plus, with the signature lights always being on, visually i feel other drivers still can see me just as well. Honestly I don't even know which bulb is the DRL. The high beam is the bulb you can clearly see in the center of the housing, if that is the DRL also, then i did not change that bulb out. If I were to turn the high beams on, i would have a yellow "hi-beam" with the now HID outer lights shining. I hope that made sense... Post #9 shows which bulb i changed.

I’m going to get some now. Looks good. I have heard they take some time to get full brightness. So is it good usable light? Can you see better now?

They certainly do take some time to get up to brightness, as well as whiteness (I had to rhyme there, I always wanted to be a rapper). When I first turned them on, they had a blue hue. a minute later, they were a nice bright white.

I never have done much night driving since owning the edge, so truthfully it didn't seem much different to my eyes as far as usable light. We have a dark stretch of road out here and I didn't notice anything better or worse!

Nice tip howie!! I'll be getting one as soon as they are finished. Thanks again Jim and SpecialK!

Just installed Putco Silver Lux Pro in my 2018 Titanium and the results were worse than the factory H11's that came with the car. I am going to take them out and find the best HID conversion kit they make. Does anyone know if there's a differs ce between the 17's and 18's?

I literally just posted about this. I had great results.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24271-how-to-hid-headlight-installation-from-drive-bright/

Boredom, is a pretty good ADHD reason.

But I wasn't about to sit in the driver seat, with the heat on, in 86 degree weather, to burp the coolant. So at the point the vehicle shut down, I was between checking tire pressure and underneath for leaks. Never knew a warning even existed to avoid such a shut down.

27ft was perfect then

Looks like the color match is pretty good. How's the beam pattern on the 16-Present halogen projectors? Did you have to adjust them down at all?

Whoever said light will scatter in these housings is full of it. These projectors must be a different design, because the pattern is no different than the stock bulbs. nice crisp line across the top of the light (when shining on the garage door) no stray beams to blind oncoming traffic.

post 13 here:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22958-front-grill-removal-without-taking-off-bumper/?hl=%2Bgrill+%2Bremoval

a few of the guys chat about it here:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22056-2016-edge-sport-removing-front-and-rear-emblems-help/?hl=%20grill%20%20removal

detailed instructions here:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23388-2016-sport-fascia-bumper-cover-etc-removal/?hl=%2Bbumper+%2Bremoval

front bumper and headlights need to be removed. from there it is just a bunch of tabs you need to pry apart. several threads on here detailing how to remove the bumper and grill. search grill removal and you'll find a bunch

The driver side is the same procedure, but there is no coolant reservoir in the way. The air box does not need to be removed either. it is a clear shot on the driver side with our edges.

For the record, I purchased the 6000k bulbs, and they match the signature lights perfectly. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Special thanks to Dan at bright lites. seems like a great guy, and honestly these were a pretty great price for an HID conversion. really changed the look of the vehicle in the evening hours!

Check out the difference from stock, to HID 6000k

Good shot of the bulb color matching here:

When plugging in the headlight to the harness, there seems to be a trick that worked with me. The original instruction video says attach the side with the red wire, to the side with the brown wire.. well mine are both black. so you have a 50/50 shot of getting the connector correct, as it can be reversed.

The trick that worked for me, is on the connector in the headlight housing, put your glasses on (very small) and find the numbers on the connector. #1 side connects to the red wire side, and #2 connects to the black wire side.

once your headlight bulb is connected, reinstall it into the housing, and replace your dust cover. it may be recommended to reconnect your negative battery terminal, and test to be sure they are working at this point, before buttoning it all back up!

put the coolant reservoir back into position and bolt it down. Referencing back to the 1/4" hole i drilled earlier, I slid a zip tie in there and here is what it looks like finished: