NeckDlight

So I have this edge for quite a while and had a draw on my battery where if I drove it ever day I wouldn't have a problem. But I didn't drive it for two days the battery would be completely dead. I always had a jumper box with me or if I knew i would not be driving for a couple days I would disconnect the battery.... Which I know isn't a great idea. So I finally got tired of this and did the ole battery drain test by pulling fuses. My draw went way down when I pulled fuse #38 on the drives inside fuse box. Which is the Subwoofer amp/audiophile fuse. I'm just checking around to see if anyone else has had a similar problem. I simply pulled the fuse and not the car has sat for three days and still starts and my battery is not dead. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Did you ever get the intermediate shaft figured out. I just did a intermediate shaft replacement along with the seal in the transmission as well as the lower trans mount. It's a pain in the Hutt getting to. There is a heat shield mounted to it that ia for the catalatic converter. Three bolts bolt the intermediate shaft to the block.

So I did a little research and found that some people had problems with the intermediate shaft prematurely wearing the seal out. So I got a new intermediate shaft along with the passenger seal and it has been 4 days and no sign of a leak yet. Now on to change my driver upper trans mount.

So I ended up getting a bearing race driver kit and a front wheel bearing adapter driver installer kit from harbor freight. It worked great. I drove the old wheel bearings out with a sledge hammer and the race driver kit due to the fact that my impact/ compressor wouldn't budge the the old ones out with the press setup. I used that setup to install the new ones. It wasn't very hard just a little time consuming. I would rather comsume my time then pay someone else to fix my vehicles.

Has anyone ever tried tackling replacing the front wheel bearings on these cars? I know they are pressed in. Which isn't a problem I just have go get the correct kit to press them in and press the new ones back in. I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck and if so what kit did you use. I know harbor frieght has a couple different kits. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

I have attempted to put two of these axle seals in my edge with no luck. I have a couple questions I was hoping to get help with answering. 1. It appears that the front left (drivers side) axle shaft seal and the front right (passenger side) intermediate shaft seal are different. Is this correct? Can anyone help me confirm? 2. The intermediate shaft seal appears to me that there is no lip on the outer diameter of the seal to rest on the casing meaning you drive the seal in until the lip rests on the casing and your done. I'm just trying to figure this out. I've done this job twice just for it to end up leaking again. And over a period of time it ruins the transmission mount. The last time I did this procedure I the intermediate shaft didn't look unusual. I'm thinking the third time doing this is the "charm" And maybe this time I might look into replacing the intermediate shaft as well. Also I have the infamous wheel bearing growl as well but that will be another time. I'm just looking for a little bit of help. All the videos and tutorials that I have found online have been about changing the drivers side and not the passengers side axle shaft seal.

I wish there was a video on installing the driver side transaxle seal. On this on this video it looks like it is the driver side axle seal that they are replacing. I do believe the driver side seal is different than the passenger side seal. From looking at this video it appears there is a lip on the seal that you run flush with the housing itself. Almost like once that lip on the seal is flush with the housing you don't have to drive it in any further the passenger side is a little bit different. Again this is a front wheel drive Ford Edge and not a all-wheel drive.

I have no idea why I said the drivers side is leaking. It us the passenger side that is leaking. I'm not sure if there is a way that change that post title. This is a front wheel drive vehicle. So there is no prob. It's def transmission fluid leaking.

So I have replaced my transaxle seal on the passenger side twice now and I still have a drip. The first time I did it I am pretty sure it was my fault and didn't drive it in strait. The second time I'm pretty sure I buggered the seal because "here's the interesting part" I drove the seal evidentally too far in. It and I had to pop the seal back out and reinstall it. I'm pretty sure I buggered the seal taking it out. I hoping the third time is a charm. The second time around I even got the Ford seal with the plastic protector you put in when sliding the intermediate shaft in. It appears there is a area where the seal seats. Like a 3/4 of the way in the hole the intermediate shaft slides in and the diameter is smaller where it seats. I should have measured how far in the seal was in on the original seal removal. I'm hoping what I have described makes sense. This car has started to be a pain in the rear any info would be greatly appreciated.

^^^^^^ you were correct. From the day the vehicle overheated on me I was hoping it was something easy. I just automatically assumed I never have that such of good luck where it's something easy. Once I took a little deeper and I found the cooling fan wasn't kicking on. Turns out the cooling fans were worn out. Once I got my new cooling fan assembly in and turned the a/c on max the cooling fans turned on. Also I took that high pressure switch off the a/c line and the fans instantly kicked on. So as of right now I got her fixed. I'm not sure how long the fans weren't working but I can tell you back in the summer I remember getting out of the car at a gas station and hearing the fans kick off and thinking hey there's the fans turning off. The past couple months it's been cold and I haven't have the unfortunate opportunity to sit in traffic on the highway.

I went out and go a new cooling fan setup for the heck of it I did connected both fans and threw 12v and a ground to each fan and they started as soon as I applied the 12v. Later I am going to put it in

Thank you for the reference this is good to know.

I cannot for the life of me recall looking at the either c or h gauge on the cluster or any lights except the check engine light when it "over heated" on traffic. The only thing I remember was I gotta get off on the shoulder and can a tow truck transport a 1 year old in a car seat

Yeah but why when I have 12 volts and a ground supplied to either fan(closer to the fcm) and I give the fan a little push do they start working. That tells me weak fans? Right