NeckDlight

So I have this edge for quite a while and had a draw on my battery where if I drove it ever day I wouldn't have a problem. But I didn't drive it for two days the battery would be completely dead. I always had a jumper box with me or if I knew i would not be driving for a couple days I would disconnect the battery.... Which I know isn't a great idea. So I finally got tired of this and did the ole battery drain test by pulling fuses. My draw went way down when I pulled fuse #38 on the drives inside fuse box. Which is the Subwoofer amp/audiophile fuse. I'm just checking around to see if anyone else has had a similar problem. I simply pulled the fuse and not the car has sat for three days and still starts and my battery is not dead. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Did you ever get the intermediate shaft figured out. I just did a intermediate shaft replacement along with the seal in the transmission as well as the lower trans mount. It's a pain in the Hutt getting to. There is a heat shield mounted to it that ia for the catalatic converter. Three bolts bolt the intermediate shaft to the block.

So I did a little research and found that some people had problems with the intermediate shaft prematurely wearing the seal out. So I got a new intermediate shaft along with the passenger seal and it has been 4 days and no sign of a leak yet. Now on to change my driver upper trans mount.

So I ended up getting a bearing race driver kit and a front wheel bearing adapter driver installer kit from harbor freight. It worked great. I drove the old wheel bearings out with a sledge hammer and the race driver kit due to the fact that my impact/ compressor wouldn't budge the the old ones out with the press setup. I used that setup to install the new ones. It wasn't very hard just a little time consuming. I would rather comsume my time then pay someone else to fix my vehicles.

Has anyone ever tried tackling replacing the front wheel bearings on these cars? I know they are pressed in. Which isn't a problem I just have go get the correct kit to press them in and press the new ones back in. I'm just wondering if anyone has had any luck and if so what kit did you use. I know harbor frieght has a couple different kits. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

I have attempted to put two of these axle seals in my edge with no luck. I have a couple questions I was hoping to get help with answering. 1. It appears that the front left (drivers side) axle shaft seal and the front right (passenger side) intermediate shaft seal are different. Is this correct? Can anyone help me confirm? 2. The intermediate shaft seal appears to me that there is no lip on the outer diameter of the seal to rest on the casing meaning you drive the seal in until the lip rests on the casing and your done. I'm just trying to figure this out. I've done this job twice just for it to end up leaking again. And over a period of time it ruins the transmission mount. The last time I did this procedure I the intermediate shaft didn't look unusual. I'm thinking the third time doing this is the "charm" And maybe this time I might look into replacing the intermediate shaft as well. Also I have the infamous wheel bearing growl as well but that will be another time. I'm just looking for a little bit of help. All the videos and tutorials that I have found online have been about changing the drivers side and not the passengers side axle shaft seal.

I wish there was a video on installing the driver side transaxle seal. On this on this video it looks like it is the driver side axle seal that they are replacing. I do believe the driver side seal is different than the passenger side seal. From looking at this video it appears there is a lip on the seal that you run flush with the housing itself. Almost like once that lip on the seal is flush with the housing you don't have to drive it in any further the passenger side is a little bit different. Again this is a front wheel drive Ford Edge and not a all-wheel drive.

I have no idea why I said the drivers side is leaking. It us the passenger side that is leaking. I'm not sure if there is a way that change that post title. This is a front wheel drive vehicle. So there is no prob. It's def transmission fluid leaking.

So I have replaced my transaxle seal on the passenger side twice now and I still have a drip. The first time I did it I am pretty sure it was my fault and didn't drive it in strait. The second time I'm pretty sure I buggered the seal because "here's the interesting part" I drove the seal evidentally too far in. It and I had to pop the seal back out and reinstall it. I'm pretty sure I buggered the seal taking it out. I hoping the third time is a charm. The second time around I even got the Ford seal with the plastic protector you put in when sliding the intermediate shaft in. It appears there is a area where the seal seats. Like a 3/4 of the way in the hole the intermediate shaft slides in and the diameter is smaller where it seats. I should have measured how far in the seal was in on the original seal removal. I'm hoping what I have described makes sense. This car has started to be a pain in the rear any info would be greatly appreciated.

^^^^^^ you were correct. From the day the vehicle overheated on me I was hoping it was something easy. I just automatically assumed I never have that such of good luck where it's something easy. Once I took a little deeper and I found the cooling fan wasn't kicking on. Turns out the cooling fans were worn out. Once I got my new cooling fan assembly in and turned the a/c on max the cooling fans turned on. Also I took that high pressure switch off the a/c line and the fans instantly kicked on. So as of right now I got her fixed. I'm not sure how long the fans weren't working but I can tell you back in the summer I remember getting out of the car at a gas station and hearing the fans kick off and thinking hey there's the fans turning off. The past couple months it's been cold and I haven't have the unfortunate opportunity to sit in traffic on the highway.

I went out and go a new cooling fan setup for the heck of it I did connected both fans and threw 12v and a ground to each fan and they started as soon as I applied the 12v. Later I am going to put it in

Thank you for the reference this is good to know.

I cannot for the life of me recall looking at the either c or h gauge on the cluster or any lights except the check engine light when it "over heated" on traffic. The only thing I remember was I gotta get off on the shoulder and can a tow truck transport a 1 year old in a car seat

Yeah but why when I have 12 volts and a ground supplied to either fan(closer to the fcm) and I give the fan a little push do they start working. That tells me weak fans? Right

So is there a certain temperature the engine gets to and the pcm tells the fcm to turn the fans on. I have a 2008 Ford edge that over heated in traffic. I throw 12 volts and a ground to each fan and they do not work. After making a attempting at supplying power and ground for about 15 mins to each fan I decide to turn the fan while supplying power and ground and what do you know they start to pick up speed and run. I'm wondering if one fan went out then the other. I took my edge to a place and said there was a code with the fan control module in the history. But at the time it was operating ok. I'm just wondering if the fcm wiped the fans out or made them weak. Looking for assistance

So this evening I decided to do some more investigating. Fire the car up let it run for 20 minutes. No leaks nothing. Happy as can be. Then I started thinking. This happened while I was sitting in traffic. I know my luck and think the worst possible outcome. Has to be the water pump. I start thinking about it over heating and why or what would cause it to over heat. While I'm thinking about this I realize you know what I have never heard the fans kick on. So I have no idea what the temperature of the engine is sitting at there is a C and H on my dash So I slap my cheapo code reader on it because I know that tells me the temperature. The temperature is sitting at 195. I do not know what temp or when the cooling fans should kick on at. I believe it gets a message from the pcm I would think at acertian temp the pcm says hey fan module turn your fans on.I'm still trying to figure that out. So I grab my Haynes manual and it says to troubleshoot the fans rule out the fans send power and ground to each of them and the fans should run. I do so and they do not run. As a last ditch effort almost like a kid I take my hand and spin the fan. Then all of the sudden it starts running with strait power and ground ran to them. Both fans do this. I start jogging my memory I had a a situation a couple months ago where I got off the highway and starting going down a road and this edge wouldn't shift out of first gear wierd. I started getting mad thinking I bought a used piece. Which I still do so I took it to a local Aamco transmission shop and had them check the trans out for me they couldn't find anything wrong with the trans.Except a fan control module code in the history they checked it out and said it was fine. So I'm thinking I have a fan control module issue along with a cooling fan issue. The cooling fans should kick on I believe when thrown strait power and ground to them. But would both fans be bad at the same time or did one take a crap on me and the other finally did. Or did the fan control module cause them to prematurely go bad.

So this evening I decided I would try and start it for the hell of it because I wanted it turned around in my drive way so the hood is facing the house. Closer to the tools. It fired right up I turned it around in record speed and shut it down. This tells me hopefully that my engine is not "totally wiped out". Which I didn't think it was. I put it on Jack stands so I could take quick peek. I didn't see anything obvious. I hooked my old harbor freight radiator pressure tester on it applied pressure and again didn't see anything obvious. Again I only had about 10 minutes.... Busy life. I'm really hoping its something simple but when I have more time I will be more thorough in my investigation. I can tell you all the wettness is on the passenger side. And I can see the strait line on the underside of the hood where the serp belt was throwing coolant. I know that the water pump is not visible without doing some digging.

I have not even began to investigate it yet. As I do have old faithful my daily driver the original smart car a 1989 Ford escort. I assure you i will go to every measure possible to make sure it is not the water pump. But I know how my luck is and it's never the most likely/easiest possibility. But I am ready for those tables to turn. I will keep you all updated as to what I find out.

I was in the fast lane sitting in stop n go. Saw the imfamous antifreeze puff come out from the hood and got off in the shoulder. Started to chug and I shut it down. There wasn't much time it was running after the tall tell signs of me being screwed. I did however slap the code reader on it when I got home last night and low and behold hold I have a po1299 code. Cylinder head over temperature protection active

Welp I'll make myself comfortable. I do need to get my hands on the cam holding tools. Also looking for advice as to where to get them. My handy dandy Haynes manual says it's manufacturer tool number 303-1248. Is that correct I did read somewhere else I would have to get a harmonic balancer puller tool as well. And am considering replacing all timing chains. All plugs and coils as well. I did read that someone did it at home in 20-24 hrs

On my way home yesterday sitting in stop and go traffic on the highway I'm pretty sure my water pump took a dump on me. I have not investigated it much but from what research I have done I'm leaning towards the water. I'm not lucky enough for it to just be a hose. I'm just trying to see what kind of surgery I'm getting myself into. The edge has 139500 miles on it. I've put about 9000 on it since I've had it. I'm just looking to see who has tackled this job and looking for pointers.

Yeah. For month the battery was fine cranking hard and fast. I would drive it a couple days then park it a couple days. This past week my kids have been out of school so I had no need to drive my "family car" the edge. I have been driving old faithful. The original smart car. 1989 Ford escort. Last week during Christmas I moved the edge a couple times and drove ur to the store a short trip. I did think to myself seems like it's turning over slower then normal. But I let it sit for a week and it was dead. I let the cells thaw out and have had the battery on a slow charge. Put the battery in and it started right up alternator is charging good. After being charged I put my solar BA7 tester on it and the battery checked out good. I I took the battery back out and is currently on a slow charge. I believe Tuesday I'm going to take the battery back to interstate and have them check it out. I just find it extremely hard to believe that the battery would drop out in just a week. The times I did a draw test I was getting no reading what so ever. I'm going to do it again to make sure I'm not doing the draw test wrong. It's just a little frustrating. But I am very fortunate I have my old faithful the "89 classic"

Welp Im back with the battery drawing issue. I let my edge sit for a week and dead battery. Back in November I put a brand new interstate battery in it. I pulled the battery brought it inside popped the caps and two of the cells were froze. Called interstate and they told me this was due to the battery discharging. Something is coming on intermittently while the vehicle sits. The past two weeks have been super cold where I live. Highs in the mid 20s. I will get to the bottom of this. Just got to have to do some investigating.

Did you take the intermediate shaft out? I have a seal leaking where the intermediate shaft goes into the transmission. I am just doing a little background Intel before I go digging into this. I have a 2008 FWD edge