dolsen

17 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Nice diagram 

It would be great if this was a Ford/industry standard diagram. This would be SOOOOOOOO helpful instead of hoping you find the right thing based on description 😅

I added an HCM to a 22 F150 and there was some programming that had to be done to it before I was able to program it. I believe it needs to be initialized to the vehicle. Don't ask me how to do that though because I didn't do it😅

Ooof, good luck, I am still following this project

On the F150 forums several people added these after they were built and apparently the only thing needed is a large open parking lot as the straight lines are used for calibration. I’ll see if I can find a post/thread about it

10 hours ago, rlarson69 said:

Does LMS allow you to datalog for revisions/fine tuning?

 

They do not. I asked about this, and the only reason they view logs is if there are issues with how the engine runs on the tune.

 

BOOOOO... thanks for the info though 😀

Honestly I'm a bit underwhelmed by the 93 tune from Livernois. My stock Explorer ST is still faster (or at least it still feels faster 🤷‍♂️)

I searched for "glare free" but I guess I didn't look far enough back in time, Thanks @Haz

Did anyone get glare free lighting to work? I loved it on my F150 and really want to activate it on my 22 ST if possible

Does anyone know if the Edge models with adaptive headlamps also have glare free lighting? With the F-150's, Canadian trucks from 22-23 were delivered to customers with this enabled. I am hoping Ford did the same with the Edge. I have s 22 ST that I would enable this on if it is possible.

Does LMS allow you to datalog for revisions/fine tuning?

Holy crap @Wubster100 , I love this thread. This, IMO, is a major oversight by Ford on the Edge, not having the 360 cams even as an option. WHEN you are successful, I will almost certainly be doing exactly this same project. I am no stranger to OEM upgrades on Ford vehicles.

Ooooo I'm subbing, I wanna see this

On 12/28/2024 at 6:03 PM, Wubster100 said:

Here is another forum post on the topic if anyone hasn't seen it yet:

 

 

Thank you @Wubster100 this was the exact thread I used as a template when I swapped mine. Good find

Also, here is a thread from 2018, the forum member that started the thread was a long standing member at the time with a heavily modded edge. I have not read through the entire thread though, but could be a good place to start

I believe the main thing that needs to be changed for E85 (and there could certainly be other things) is the HPFP. In the 2.7's it is in the engine compartment driven by one of the camshafts. I have linked one below, but it is listed as being used for the 2.7 in the F-150. I do not know if this is compatible, just trying to show an example

https://morepowertuning.com/products/xdi-a007-27

On 12/23/2024 at 4:39 PM, Brandon123 said:

Most my mods aren't street legal. what's one more gonna do lol. Would a change in the timing cause the exhaust to pop? because that's exactly what i'm looking to do. 

popping comes from excess fuel in the exhaust, AKA running rich. I suppose changing timing could do that but I wouldn't rely on that as a way of forcing it because I am not sure it would work. I would think removing the cats is more likely to cause popping than removing mufflers, because the cats cannot burn off the combustion components if they are not installed.

Also, you could cut the exhaust at a point that is straight for 6"+ and then use clamps to put the mufflers back on as needed

I'd have to agree with @dabangsta in that drilled/slotted isn't really the way to go. It could easily be the source of the noise, OR if you went with aggressive brake pads, those are notorious for squeaking. Frankly, unless you're racing the vehicle, hard, at a track, I would avoid drilled and/or slotted rotors altogether. Too many issues and too much wear

I did this swap YEARS ago and haven't had that edge in over 2 years now. But IIRC I purchased the aliexpress part that was shown in a previous post. Not sure if that helps

if anyone has access to PTS they can see if you got an update

Im glad to see all this worked out for you. I used to be big on making my cars go faster, now I am at least as committed to making them stop faster too.

I also like that you used that bolt to get the rotors off. It gets tiring hitting them with a sledge

It can absolutely be done, adding those features, however, it likely won't be "easy". I am not intimately familiar with how the edge is wired up, but you'll need the seats, probably some sort of driver seat module, the 8" screen and APIM, as well as all of the trim pieces required to house the 8" screen. I'm sure there's a some wire harness building involved too.

2 hours ago, HUTCHRED said:

Anyway, it will be a couple of months before I take ownership of the car but was trying to be prepared. My family is doing a bit of a car swap and I am ending up with a 2020 Edge ST.

I think you need to wait and see if it is possible to swap a 2019+ nautilus cluster in there. If you had a 15-18, I would say for the MKX cluster

I think post tuning support is more like "hey, my car is acting funny since I used your tune, any chance you could take a look at datalogs?" I've tuned 3 or 4 cars using unleashed with no issue, and even had one of them retuned about a year after the initial tune for no charge, but this was a case of the car acting up with the tune, not a retune for adding new parts.

13 hours ago, Special_K said:

 

Hey OP!  SO short answer..... an aftermarket fmic will help primarily with charge temps and will help with keeping lower charge temps and thus more timing maintaining power and lowering quarter mile times (unknown amount).

 

But stock FMIC temps on a 0-130 MPH pull would start at 75F and end at a steamy 218F with 6 degrees of timing pull.  Ambient was 69F (ha).

 

Same day installed an ultimate performance intercooler did a 0-130 pull.  Started at 81F ending at 147F,  And 0 timing pull.  Ambient was 78F.

 

So yes it helps

 

Long answer:

 

To keep production costs down, oftentimes the OEM intercooler is fairly small. It will typically get the job done, but as soon as you start increasing boost pressure or adding bolt-on modifications, the OEM intercooler can hold you back.

 

Adding a larger intercooler without any tuning will not really add any power. The charge air temperature will be lower resulting in denser air, but the larger intercooler can add a slight amount of drag which can somewhat negate any power gains.

 

The real magic of installing an aftermarket turbo intercooler is the ability to run a more aggressive tune without running into detonation. A larger intercooler is also less susceptible to heat soaking, which means you can stay out on the drag strip or race track longer without losing power.

 

Do Intercoolers Add Horsepower?

To put it simply: no, a turbo intercooler will not really add any horsepower to your car. It does, however, give you much more wiggle room for a more aggressive tune without the risk of harming your engine.

 

It should be noted, however, that too large of an intercooler can actually do more harm than good. If you have an extremely massive intercooler, you will cause more turbocharger lag and more drag inside the whole system.

 

FAQs:

 

Will a Bigger Intercooler Increase Power? – Without proper tuning, an intercooler by itself won’t increase power by any substantial amount, because your OEM ECU tune may not increase boost or ignite timing when it sees safer charge air temperatures.

 

What Does an Intercooler Do? – The job of your intercooler is simple – cool the hot compressed air coming from your turbocharger before it enters your engine.

 

Will it Decrease Boost Pressure? – Depending on your application, the size of the turbocharger, and the size of the intercooler, it’s possible to see decreased boost pressure after installing an aftermarket intercooler.

 

Do I Need a Tune? – Technically, no you don’t need an aftermarket tune with an aftermarket intercooler for the majority of applications, however, we highly recommend installing an ECU tune or piggyback system to capitalize on your lower charge air temperatures.

Luckily you will almost never run into this problem as spatial constraints will force you to run an intercooler that typically isn’t too much larger than the factory unit.

This! This is the gold that people join forums for. This is an excellent reply.

13 minutes ago, onyxbfly said:

I don't think that anyone has subjectively measured just the FMIC, because most people usually do other mods in addition to the FMIC.  We have the same package/ options. I don't run E30.  I can't speak to what a typical improvement in regards to running E30. 

 

But I can say that without a doubt that your temps will come down and you will not suffer from heat soak unless under the most severe cases.  Which translates into more runs at the track for you without having to wait for her to cool down!

I could be wrong, but I believe the idea behind the FMIC isn't to add power, but to prevent the loss of power, which I believe you were alluding to.

This helps keep the intake air cooler, and in turn allows the engine to run more advanced timing than if you keep the stock intercooler and allow IAT's to go up when pushing hard or sitting still.

2 hours ago, Pascale007 said:

Thanks for the info. It had 28,700-ish when I changed it, so around 2k miles since. K&N part # 33-5000. Do you know how to perform a KAM reset on this vehicle? Thanks again. ?

Disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and reconnect