IT_Guy71

I'm selling my Racechip GTS w/bluetooth because I sold my vehicle. This unit is programmed for the 2014 - 2021 Ford Edge ST. I used it for about 2,300 miles and it's in perfect condition. Brand new it costs $499 with bluetooth. With the GTS edition, I'm eligible for a retune so this module can be reprogrammed for the 2.0L ecoboost engine. The reprogramming includes new cable (if needed). Anyway, while I was using it, I noticed a significant difference in throttle response and just overall power. With the GTS, it's putting out nearly 400hp! The chip adds 53hp and 73lb/ft torque and shockingly, I got 3mpg BETTER MILEAGE running it at level 7 100% of the time. Granted- your experience may be different based on your driving style, but I got on it quite a bit. You can change the level of programming from 0-7 inside the cab (thanks bluetooth!). I personally averaged 21mpg with an average daily commute of just over 50 miles and about 40% city/60%hwy driving. I have the original box and instrucitons along with all the cable ties and stuff needed to install it. If you have any questions, text me at 6 51 37 32 559 (I don't go on this forum very often).

I “upgraded” to Sync 3.4 from 3.3 in my ‘19 Edge ST. I was hoping it would fix the horrible lag for the first 5 minutes after start. The negligible facelift is meh, I could have stuck with 3.3 and been fine. ok deep breath... how is it possible that the car company that has been around the longest is still stuck so far back in the dark ages with their infotainment system? I’ve had $60 Android based head units that run literal circles around sync in almost every category. It’s not even close.. performance gets a D. It boots and plays music so it doest fail. It would cost maybe an additional $40 to put in a decent video chipset for quick, snappy performance- why are they still putting 1990’s level performance hardware in the main vehicle interface? It just goes downhill from there. I used to be able to browse my usb music collection while driving after waiting 3-4 minutes EVERY TIME THE CAR STARTS for it to index the entire drive. Now I can’t. REALLY FORD? Let’s maybe cache the directories in memory? Maybe it’s not a fair comparison, but my previous vehicle was a 2013 BMW 550 and the iDrive system was phenomenal. It wasn’t super snappy, but it’s no slouch. Performance was consistent, almost to a fault. Menus were very logically laid out and everything integrated very well. Granted that’s a high end sports luxury vehicle, but even the lowest end BMW gets the same iDrive system. I’m forced to live with it so I’ll have to make the best of it. But DAMN... this is a hard fail Ford! Don’t even try to compare sync to a model 3 Tesla that’s $20k cheaper. I’m at a loss for any more words.... am I alone in this?

I think I may have had this applied. I told them about the symptoms which matched the description and they did program the PCM. It has not had harsh shift from P, R, D since then. I don’t have the service receipt because there’s a part I’m waiting for and they won’t close out the ticket until that part is installed.

I'm looking to add an aftermarket sub and amp to the B&O system in my '19 edge ST. I'm considering tapping into the speaker inputs going to the factory 8" sub but I'm worried that the frequency cutoff is too aggressive. Does anyone know what the cutoff is for the sub? I assume they block anything lower than what the sub can handle safely?

Are you talking about the DSR1 when you say it's the perfect piece? Also by shaping I mean they cut off the frequencies going to the factory sub that are too low for it to play without damaging it. Normally you'd get full range off the back of an aftermarket RCA, but in this case the signal going to the sub speaker wires has been filtered to block anything below probably 25hz or so. I could live with it if it's not shaped too aggressively and I'm definitely not looking to do anything to the rest of the system- just want to add a sub.

I have a hard time hearing the door locks engage and/or seeing the quick flash of the markers when I lock the vehicle by touching the top of the door handle. Is there a way to have the horn sound briefly when it locks this way?

Is there a way to tap into low level full signal outputs to feed a sub amp? Short of using something like a DSR1 and having to replace the factory amp(s), could I splice into the speaker wires going to the sub and send those high level inputs into the amp? I have an audiocontrol epicenter plus that will take high level inputs- I had it set up just that way on my BMW taking a splice off the subwoofer and it handled the power just fine. My big concern there is the audio signal by the time it gets to the factory sub is already shaped for that speaker (8" shallow mount under each seat in the BMW's case). I did notice stuff below 25hz or so dropped off way faster than they should- I'm sure this is why. It was passable quality and I only want to add a sub- I don't want to replace the factory amps or speakers. Thanks!

ralfwalter, can you share the post where you saw a wiring diagram for the sound system? I have the BO system but have no specs on power or wiring. Thanks!

I was wondering if you've made any progress? I have a '19 ST that I want to basically add a subwoofer to. I'm having a hard time finding a solution that doesn't involve buying a $300 box that gives me 6 channels- I only really need the two for Bass (1 would be fine actually).

I only have about 600 miles on my '19 ST. I've been considering trying a tank or two of 87 just to see if there's a big difference. Can anyone here comment on their experiences with this?