CharlieB

These are all for a 2015 Sport right out of the factory manual. Front 1. Strut top hat nut: 98 Lb Ft 2. Strut to knuckle bolts: 2 @173 lb Ft 3. Strut tower bolts: 3 @26 Lb Ft 4: Sway bar link nuts: Upper link to Strut 85 Lb Ft Rear 1. Subframe bolts (big ones): 4 @129 Lb Ft 2. T50 torx bolts: Not Sure which bolts you are referring to 3. Upper shock mount bolts: 76 Lb Ft 4: Sway bar link nuts: 85 Lb Ft Ford also states that all suspension fasteners NOT be reused. If I were to reuse them I would add fresh thread locker to them.

Ride with the B6's I would say is just a little stiffer than stock, which I prefer. The Edge Sport ride is pretty firm from the factory, I didn't want that to deteriorate with a weak shock. I have had really good luck with Bilstein shocks over the years so it was my first choice. Yes it's a 1971 VW Squareback. My Dad bought the car new, he parked it in his garage in '85 with the intention of getting back on the road. Well after Dad passed last year I trailer it down to Texas in the same condition when it was parked 35 years prior. Dad also had a 1991 Toyota Pickup that had been stationary since 2012, so I trailer it down to Texas too. Now the fun begins

Opps double post -

Finally got after the rear shocks on our 2015 Sport over the weekend . Pretty easy job overall. Only a couple of tips, first support the lower control arm before you take the shock off, no need to lift it up just keep it in place when you do the R & R. Second install the lower shock mount bolts first, once the lower bolts start threading into the shock mount only thread them in 4 - 5 turns. It much easier to get the top shock mounting bracket lined up if the bottom bolts are loose. Once all bolts are started tighten up up. Steps for the job. -Get the car up in the air safely -Remove rear wheels -Remove shock mounting bolts 2 upper that bolt upper mount bracket to body and 2 lower. -Remove shock you may have to compress the shock a little to get the upper mount bracket away from the body. -Pry off black plastic cap off of upper shock mount bracket to expose upper shock mounting nut. Do this with a small straight blade screwdriver -Remove upper shock nut and remove shock from upper mounting bracket -Install upper mounting bracket to upper shock mount and tighten nut to 35 ft lbs -Replace black cap it only fits with the "wings" parallel to the length of the upper mounting bracket See Photo -Apply a small amount of red loctite to mounting bolts. -Install shock resting it on the lower control arm while you get the lower mounting bolts started (See above) -Compress shock a little to get upper mounting bracket in place at body mount (there are 2 screws sticking out from the body mount that will keep the upper bracket in place while you start the upper mount bracket bolts. -Install upper mount bracket bolts. -Snug up mounting bolts then tighten upper to 76 Ft lbs and lower to 35 Ft lbs. -Double check your work -Replace wheel tighten lug nuts to 150 OMG Ft lbs. Liberal application of anti seize to the threads and the nut to wheel tapered face make removal much easier. -Test drive for your own satisfaction -Crack open a cold Shiner of Dr Pepper. Extra points to anyone who can identify the yellow car in the background. It's 50 years old with the 2021 model years. -

Our Edge is FWD (wish it was AWD but we got a great deal on it) so I don't have to worry about the AWD and different diameter tires. My wife is very capable of changing a tire, when she travels she has a small floor jack and my old cordless impact (all in a travel tool tote). It takes up some space but the piece of mind is worth it. As our vehicles age I carry more spare parts and tools. I have an F250 with the 7.3 diesel with over 300K on it. The spare parts are now in their own tote, separate from the tools. A couple of photos of the larger spare in the rear area and the raised rear cover.

2015 Edge Sport front rotors warped at a little over 40K, lived with it for another 5K, finally said enough. I have had marginal luck with having warped rotors turned that have not warp again. Went with Powerstop Z23 brake upgrade kit. Part number K7231 for the 345mm front rotors. These are slotted and drilled rotors with ceramic pads. Installed them 5K ago and so far no complaints. I have the EBC version of this kit on one of my other cars and have been happy with it. The Powerstop quality seems good and the price is pretty competitive. Drilled and slotted rotors can make some noise especially with heavy brake applications, just an FYI At 45K miles the original pads weren't even 50% worn, our driving is mostly highway.

Right Rear on our 2015 Edge Sport is leaking, have a pair of Bilstein's sitting on my workbench waiting for a free evening this week. I will post how the job went but like you said it looks pretty straight forward. 2 bolts on the lower control arm, 2 bolts on the shock upper mounting bracket to body, then the top nut on the shock itself.

Have a 2015 Edge Sport with the 21" factory wheels. I (Actually my wife) wanted something better for a spare so I researched what you can do for a more durable spare tire. First, nothing wider than the skinny temp spare will fit under the rear cargo floor without raising it up some. My solution meant the cargo floor (spare tire cover) needs to raised up 1.5". Since a 2 x 4 is between 1.5 and 1and 5/8" in thickness I cut a 2 x 4 up so it rests on the ledge where the cargo floor rests and now the cargo floor rests on top of the 2" x 4"s laying on their sides. There are more elegant solutions but for now I used the Easy button. That earlier photo of the 2020 Edge spare looks identical to the 2015 we have. OK so what wheel fits the 2015 Sport with the 345mm front brake rotors. Now here's where I got lucky. I have an obsession with the '90 - '95 Thunderbird SC's which also use the 5 - 108mm bolt pattern, after test fitting several T-bird wheels I had, I determined you need an 18" steel wheel to clear the brakes. So I found a steel wheel part number X48508 from RTX (available from Amazon) 18X7.5 Bolt Pattern: 5-108, Center Bore: 63.4 with an offset that works on the Edge. It's a Volvo SUV wheel, thank you Ford for the parts bin engineering when you owned Volvo. Now for a tire. To fit in the spare tire well you need to keep the tire diameter below 26" preferable closer to 25" and it has to fit on a 7.5" wide wheel. One possibility is a 225/40R18 with an XL load capacity as the Edge is no feather weight. Since tire diameters vary by manufacturer you need to check this out before purchasing a tire. When I have an opportunity I'll snap a photo of the tire in place and post it in the future. The spare tire hold down bolt isn't long enough to extend thru the wider wheel, but the jack is secured with its hold down and nothing rattles. With the Covid 19 pandemic my wife needs to commute monthly between Central Texas and the Chicago area for family, she's not comfortable flying right now so she's driving and wanted a real spare. BTW love the Edge Sport, it leaves my stock Thunderbird SC in the dust and runs neck and neck with my Modded T-Bird. Love my modded T-Bird as it's one of the rare 5 speed cars, and there's something about twin screw blower whine. For my wife as a daily and for longer trips the Edge Sport is pretty stealthy highway cruiser.