Justin400

Brake lights and diagnostic code pull. This started happening after I had an alignment done. I took it back and they said nothing was wrong. 3 months later the error message is populating again on the console. Not sure what it could be? I just have a hard time is the steering angle sensor.

My issues started about 6 mos ago with issues starting occasionally. Engine would always start but seemed to crank excessively. Well the other day when on a road trip to visit the family it started to shudder while accelerating at around 3500-4500 rpm. Then I got a misfire code. Replaced sparkies and coils since it is at 150k miles already. Problem still occurs. Threw some injector cleaner in with no expectation it would help. Fuel pump has been tested and it’s within spec. I have a dealer appointment Friday but I’m supposed to drive back home Monday. It idles fine but it’s when accelerating hard it becomes problematic. It also feels like there is some resistance when accelerating in general but no misfires. Not burning coolant or oil so doubt it’s a head gasket issue.

So far battery checks good, starter seems to be cranking fine, and the fuel pump pressure is within spec. Mechanic said he doesn’t know what other diagnostics to run and recommended going to the dealer. Basically I turn the key and sometimes it starts fine sometimes it cranks more than it should need. Just wanna get the issue resolved before it leads me stuck somewhere this winter. Appointment is Thursday at Ford but any ideas would be appreciated. Issue has been intermittently present since replacing the spark plugs 50k miles ago but don’t think it’s related. It has been more frequent now.

Same issue on mine a while back. It worked fine for a while just the occasional chime to check charging system and then it became more frequent. Mechanic didn’t want to replace it because the alternator tested fine on diagnostics. I ended up saying I’d eat the cost even if it didn’t fix it. Replaced and the alert went away.

So I had a nail in my tire last week and had the shocks replaced as well. They performed an alignment. Went in today for a fuel pump test and as I was driving in my ABS system faulted and gave me a check braking system message. Not really sure where to go from here?

So I have a new alternator, plugs, and battery. I don’t think the issue is electrical. Randomly my vehicle will take 6 or 7 cranks to start and then it’ll start fine the next time. It happens completely randomly regardless of temperature, or time vehicle has sat. No check engine lights either or performance issues after vehicle is started.

Can you send the steps for this model

I'm having intermittent "Check Charging System" messages displaying on my dash cluster. I went to auto zone and the voltage read 14.2v when running, battery was looking pretty corroded and was testing bad. I replaced the battery. I'm not sure where to go next. Is it the alternator? Where do I go next with diagnosing and resolving this?

Update: took it to a mechanic who’s been in the business for years. He took it for the day after dropping me off at home from work and going for a test drive. went to sleep and woke up at 3pm and he gave me call. New wheel bearing was what i needed and quoted me $70 under book price for the service. great guy. will definitely do business with him again.

i’m taking it to the dealer tomorrow to throw more money at it. I’m sure it’s possible but i really don’t think that is the cause.

Rear Differential failed and had it replaced with a salvaged part. i’m still hearing the noise that’s the reason i brought it in in the first place. low rumbling that sounds louder with speed. my second thought is the PTU but in a previous post i mentioned that i had that serviced at the same time as the Diff. the noise seems to be getting more aggressive. i don’t think it’s wheel bearings either because there is no play in the wheels and steering doesn’t seem to be effected. any advice to troubleshoot this? i can’t tell if i’m paranoid or if there is an issue. is it common for the diff and ptu to fail together?

sounds like what i’m experiencing

to add to this i get a ticking sound at low speeds like less than 10 mph.

120k and bought at 80k so if the dealer did it before selling it to me than 40k if not it’ll be the first time.

suspicious.

can you send me a link to where that is stated. i’m giving them a call when they open monday about that. I didn’t read the receipt until i posted the service done and was thinking the same thing when i saw that.What damage could be done by using the wrong type of fluid?

ptu

i’d say it was around the same time. I just got my vehicle back before christmas and it went in the shop in august so i can’t exactly remember what it sounded like prior. The tire i have on is the Destination LE2 from firestone. They used ATF Full Synthetic according to the paperwork in the transfer case and 80W90 in the diff. as far as the transfer case service i was told that everything looked fine when they drained the old fluid out.

my edge has just got out of the shop with a replacement differential pulled from a totaled edge and while it was in there i also had them change the PTU oil. I got it back last week but i swear it is still making a rumbling noise once i accelerate above 10 mph. it’s steady and continuous. I don’t know if there is an issue with my vehicle, but no vibrating or shaking is occurring. I changed the brakes and rotors as well. Im not sure if i’m just paranoid or something is wrong. I don’t think it is the wheel bearings which is why i originally took it in and how they uncovered my bad differential. I have new tires as well.

i have a 2014 edge and i’ve began researching where to get the rear axle assembly/ differential and they told me at the parts counter they only have bearings and i will have to go to a junkyard. What? i’d understand if it was an older vehicle but 2014 is hardly old. I got a lead that a dealer a few states over had one in their inventory but it was for one of their customers. This is beyond annoying. Not only did the local ford dealer lead me on for months that they will get it back soon but it’s not even being made anymore and they’ve known that.

Same here. Are we really at that state of consumerism where vehicles are obsolete in less than 10 years? I did find a dealer who said another dealer a few states over would have it in stock and could ship it. I’ll have my mechanic give them a call in the morning. I really appreciate the hoops my mechanic has jumped through for me though. Definitely a stand up guy.

I reached out to the dealer back home where i bought the vehicle and they told me the part has been discontinued. I called the warranty services and informed them and they told me I can do whatever it takes to get a replacement part as long as it costs similarly to an oem part and is appropriate for the vehicle.

@ben senise The issue with going to a Ford Dealer was that they had no availability to get the vehicle in for 2 months. The warranty will pay whoever is willing to do the work and is has the correct certification to work on the vehicle. I’m going to get the part number tomorrow when the mechanic opens and see if the ford dealership back where i bought the vehicle from would be able to assist me. I’m going back for thanksgiving so it’ll be a nice side mission while i’m there.

@ben senise it’s an aftermarket warranty. it’s apart of the lifetime powertrain warranty that ford dealers offer. it’s managed by total warranty services. Approval from them for the work to be done and purchase the parts has already been approved.

What month did this all take place? my order has been in since August.