ymerameha

Hello forum!

I'm having a bit of trouble interpreting the wiring diagrams. Which heated oxygen sensor wire on the diagram is the signal wire? VS+?

Is there somewhere the meanings of these abbreviations?

What do the rest of the wire abbreviations for this sensor mean?

Many thanks in advance to those who answered.

Since I don't know much English myself, it's quite difficult to figure out what these abbreviations mean.

Hello

The engine is Duratorq 2.0L. ForScan displays two PIDs per DPF. DPF_LOAD and DPF_SOOT_LD. The Internet says about them that DPF_LOAD is based on the actual measured differential pressure and DPF_SOOT is calculated using a preset algorithm. I think these numbers could be similar or at least the same size. My own is that DPF_LOAD is 12% - ~ 110% and DPF_SOOT_LD is 1% - 8%. I drove a "test car" and it has both readings similar.

Can anyone comment on what could be the difference in the readings?

Could someone look at your car numbers and confirm that this is the case?

DPF gets full very soon as a result.

Hello

I get occasionally DTC error B14DA - Right Headlamp Light Distribution Actuator, Performance Or Incorrect Operation. I removed the headlight to look maybe I can see something, but there aren't very many openings or anything to look at behind. Only one relatively small hole behind electronic module (HCM?)

What if bulb needs replacement? Do they need any replacement?
I'm looking at the label - Full LED ADB. Are they really full LEDs? I was always thinking they are xenons.
Can I open the light case?

Is there any way to repair it or replace it with something else?

The new part costs 1750 EUR.

So. Injectors replaced with new ones and coded. Engine still smokes.
 

On 9/2/2021 at 2:40 AM, 1004ron said:

get a compression and lead-down test done

English is not my first language. Even not second. @1004ron do you mean lead-down = leak-down test?

On 9/2/2021 at 5:08 AM, dajo2012 said:

What's the mileage?

It's 110 000 km

On 9/2/2021 at 5:08 AM, dajo2012 said:

What's the service history?

I'm not the firs owner. I bought it with 90,000 miles. According to the documents, all the prescribed services have been performed more or less according to the mileage. I have changed the engine oil twice (10,000 km).

13 hours ago, Lostlittlelamb said:

Yes its kinda tricky once you move the cat out out of they way you have to turn it just right and will slide right out. Exauhst manifold fa ing down and 2 air ports facing th cat and angine will get you close.

Thanks for explaining.

I just noticed that my post was made in the wrong forum. My Edge engine is a Duratorq-TDCi, not an EcoBoost. This can be a little confusing here. Maybe we're talking about different engines.

What engines are you talking about @Lostlittlelamb, @Nsohail76?

I don't know which forum my post would actually fit into.

@Lostlittlelamb Did you get out your turbo?

If the injectors have been replaced, I think against the used ones, but they are not coded, can it smoke so much?

No. Absolutely not. Could this be the reason why DPF is regenerated every 10-15 km?

Hi everybody. What do you think, is this normal?

https://youtu.be/itXdPIPxlFk

@Lostlittlelamb I don't know. I've not changed my turbo yet.
Maybe @Nsohail76 can help?

I ordered a job from a wheels restoration company. They are cleaned, primed, powder coated and varnished. In the original there was only varnish and therefore in our conditions they corroded.

Wheels restored.

My car is still in dealer and I don't have any pictures of turbo.
My turbo is like https://spolshy.com.ua/product/9805482485/ or https://atomcarparts.co.uk/product/turbocharger-no-10009700232-for-ford-mondeo-s-max-galxy-2-0-tdci/
Page from service manual where stated to be prepared to collect escaping fluid:
 

Maybe that helps you and thank you for info.

How much do you think the turbo weighs?

@Nsohail76 did you get your wife's Edge turbo replaced?

7 hours ago, Nsohail76 said:

Did everything work out well for you with replacing by yourself? I am planning on doing it on my wife’s edge tomorrow. Please let me know if you have any tips or lessons learnt.

I haven't replaced it yet.
The car is already a couple of weeks at the dealer at defection. To get another opinion.
They are not currently saying that the turbol is faulty. The only thing they have said is that the correct temperatures are not achieved during regeneration of DPF. They ordered a new fuel vapour and it will be replaced when arriving. Then we will see if my saga continues.
Looks like you can give me some advice instead.
My most burning question is whether the turbo can be reached without removing the engine?

8 hours ago, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

you will likely not get the PC/ED section of the manual, just the actual workshop manual, and possibly the wiring diagrams. it will be a single PDF file, but organized.

What is PC/ED section of the manual and do I need this for changing turbo?

3 hours ago, niceonept said:

Hi.

I couldn't find any Haynes or similar manual for the European Edge but did find this: https://www.easymanuals.co.uk/product/ford-edge-pdf-workshop-service-repair-manual-2016-2020/ 

and this on eBay: 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274298000550

Let us know how you get on.

Thank you @niceonept

I bought this manual and it is very helpful. I don't have to figure out what to disassemble and in what order, and which seals need to be replaced.
It's not exactly the engine of my model, but visually everything seems more or less the same.
The lack of space still raises questions. At the moment, it seems that it must be accessible from both the bottom and the top.

Hello
 

TDCi, Bi-Turbo, T9CE, 2.0L, 154 KW.
The local store thinks that the failure of smaller turbo of bi-turbo is behind the formation of excess soot and clogging of the DPF.

I had the idea to replace this turbo myself, because they (both the local store and the dealer) want an insane amount of money to replace it, and the original turbo itself is quite expensive. I'd like to spend a little less money.
I couldn't find any replacement videos or descriptions on the internet and looking under the hood, some questions arose.
Has anyone replaced the turbo on this engine himself?
Does the engine need to be removed or can the turbo somehow get caught between the cab and the engine? There seems to be very little space.
How long could a replacement take if the wrench holds relatively well?
Is there anything that deserves special attention?
Can I get repair instructions for European models through motorcraftservice (if I buy 3 days access)? https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Purchase/ViewProduct

Is that a good idea at all? To do or not to do, that's the question.

Thank you all for your time.

Hi everybody

Yesterday I went for a longer drive. DPF could have cleaned himself nicely, but instead began to make mistakes.

At first, it showed a message that I didn't pay much attention to. Something "... drive to clean" and the only option was "OK". I pressed.

After a while, the first icon appeared - "Service Engine Soon". After nearly another 100km, the "Powertrain Fault" icon appeared and the car was put into limited power mode.

Tere are two errors in DTC that come back immediately after deleting with forscan:

Code: P2463 - Particulate Filter Restriction - Soot Accumulation (Bank 1)
Code: P246C - Particulate Filter Restriction - Forced Limited Power (Bank 1)

What can I do with these? Only service?

Thank you for your time

@Coolpooler Do you suddenly have a picture of the detail you ordered? Or from an old broken one. Then I would know what is behind this product code.

Will continue topic there: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/threads/ford-edge-2017-audison-ap-f8-9-idatalink-maestro-ar.435451/#post-5910074

Does anybody has done upgrade setup like this?

Vehicle is Edge 2017 Vignale with Sony databus controlled amplifier.
I have these parts:
Audison Forza AP F8.9 bit  https://us.audison.eu/products/ap-f8-9-bit/

IDatalink Maestro AR https://maestro.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/412
T-harness for Ford vehicle https://maestro.idatalink.com/accessories/category/product_id/580/project/ar

Maestro AR manual https://images.idatalink.com/corporate/Content/Manuals/ADS-AR-FOR02-AUD-IG-EN_20200423.pdf states that some cables must be supplied by audison. In red.

What more cables do I need? I cant find something in Audison website.

1 hour ago, 1004ron said:

Where do you live and what anti-ice products do they use on the roads?

 

What model, year and mileage? - that would indicate whether you have any chance of Ford assisting, and even then this type of thing isn't usually cover by warranty.

 

In areas that use aggressive products on the icy roads, you need to clean the road grime off frequently or it will start the type of corrosion you're seeing which is usually impossible to restore by hand.

 

Please add your location and Model/Year to your profile signature - https://www.fordedgeforum.com/settings/signature/

Updated the signature.

Mileage is about 101000 km. Warranty is over.

I'm not sure what they put on the roads, but they do it aggressively in this winter, because there is a lot of snow.

Thanks to @Haz I know what is it and can find help.

4 hours ago, Haz said:

The condition, described as 'white worm' corrosion, is technically 'filiform' corrosion, where a flaw in the clear coat allows the aluminum and/or other metals in the wheel to be affected by salt water or another corrosive agent.

 

The effect looks bad, but shouldn't affect the structural integrity of the wheel.

 

If your vehicle is still under warranty, see if your dealer will replace or have the wheel(s) refinished locally.

 

In the photo, the granularity of the finish looks as though it is a painted and clear coated wheel, as opposed to a fully polished and clear coated aluminum wheel.

 

Fully reconditioning corroded wheels involves sanding the surface with progressively finer grits until the original finish is approximated. This process can be do-it-yourself as long as you have the proper tools and are willing to invest the time to refinish the damaged surfaces, followed by clear coating, perhaps up to 6 hours per wheel.

 

YouTube offers plenty of videos on DIY and professional wheel refinishing methods.

 

If your wheels are painted and clear coated alloys, you may be able to re-paint and clear coat the wheel(s) yourself, but surface preparation is vital toward a satisfying result.

 

Or, you could look for a used wheel to replace the corroded one.

 

Good luck!

Thank you for information. Now I have understanding what it is and can search local wheel repair.

All wheels are corroded and it seems to me that it is evolving fast.

Does anyone dare to offer what these wheels are with? Chemistry doesn't really want to take it. Maybe it would be helpful to know what the substance might be.

Chemical or mechanical means may also be provided.