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Dallas150

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  1. Thanks once again @omar302. Updating the FCIM firmware enabled this feature. For those curious my previous files were: Strategy: FA1T-14G121-AG updated to: HA1T-14G121-AE Calibration: FA1T-14G122-AG updated to: HA1T-14G122-AE Files were available on the Ford site.
  2. Good day, I am looking to see if anyone knows how to keep the heated seats and steering wheel on after a remote start and after getting in the vehicle and hitting the start button. I know about all the remote start settings in the IPC, that's not what I am talking about. On my 2019 F150 Lariat, after I remote start either in the winter or summer, when I get in the vehicle (after remote starting) the truck will keep the heated steering wheel and seats on after pushing the start button. Or in the summer it will keep the cooled seats on. In my 2016 MKX after remote starting and getting in and pushing the start button, the heated seats and wheel turn off. They work automatically when remote starting but I'd like them to stay on like my truck does. All IPC settings match in both vehicles, not sure if this is a firmware thing or can be enabled in forscan. Thanks.
  3. Not sure what the root cause of the failure is. They are not routed where they can be pinched between something and are fastened in about 4 spots in a span of just over a foot. I may have made the failure look worse while removing all the tape and wire loom to find it. It was failing intermittently before I pulled it apart so it was probably in better shape before I bent and turned it while looking for the failure.
  4. Hello all. This is kind of a dead thread but I figured I’d post what I’ve found given this happened to me on my MKX. Turned out to just be the wiring harness from the vehicle to the parking brake motor. The failure message was intermittent as some on here also had. Would come on and go away and so on. Scanner displayed 2 codes in ABS module. One for parking brake malfunction and the other for left parking brake motor. For some reason the wiring in these harnesses break inside the wiring loom. See attached. This is what was found inside the wiring loom, makes sense as to why it was failing lol. Not sure how this happens but seems to be common on edges and MKX. Easy repair, around 60$ CAD per side for the new harnesses. Odds are pretty good you don’t need new actuators when this happens, especially if it is intermittent. The abs module stop seeing the motor due to the wire break or almost break which causes the code. This warning self clears when connection reestablished which is why it will go away. Codes with still be logged but light is off. If you have this problem unplug and check the harness (2 wires) for continuity between each end (if you have a multimeter). Resistance should be very low like 0.1 ohms maybe 1ohm but anything higher or and OL reading the harness is nfg and needs to be replaced. Something to try before shelling out to a dealer for some parts you may not need and at an inflated cost.
  5. Update - I finally got all the wiring components together and installed. 4 pin trailer harness is working, though when scanned I do have a code stating initial configuration not complete but it does work never the less. For those interested the power wire for the module harness is the brown and red wire in the harness right behind the OBD port. The wire only goes from here to the module harness connector in the drivers rear quarter panel. I added the factory pig tail harness to the other side of the main harness behind the Obd port and picked power off the fuse panel right above the port using a micro fuse add a circuit. The part number for the pig tail harness is EU2Z-14474-AB. This will just push into the opposing connector. See photo.
  6. Does the added trailer light module show up when connected with Forscan? Haven't made it as far as you yet so I can't help a whole lot but one would think this should be plug and play as it only controls the lights. Try looking in the BdyCM on the "Easy mode" and see if there any any new options now that the new module is added (just guessing ). I'm sure I'll have the same issues when I get to this point.
  7. Hello all, Reviving an old thread - Came across this while researching what will be required to install the factory trailer hitch and wiring. I have a 2016 MKX not an edge but close enough (Not much info on the Lincoln Forums-not ones for the DIY I guess lol). This has been the most informative thread by far, so I figured id contribute my findings thus far. I'll start by saying I am still compiling parts and haven't completed the install but I've found the following for part numbers (Most on this thread are correct): - Ford hitch kit (The hitch and hardware)- FT4Z-19D520-AA (This should work for 2015-2018) - Split Kick sensor--------------------------------------FA1Z-14F680-C - 4-Pinn trailer harness------------------------------GA1Z-13A576-A -Trailer light module sub harness--------------F2GZ-13A576-B (this connects the capped harness to the trailer light module-located drivers side cargo area< behind interior quarter panel or which ever side the subwoofer isn't) - Trailer light module----------------------------------E1GZ-19H332-B (the number listed previously in this thread are engineering part numbers, these are the numbers listed on the module itself that one would think are part numbers (because that would make sense) but are not the actual part number that can be searched-dealer cross referenced to get actual part number) - Lincoln Lower valance for tow package- FA1Z-17K835-B (This part number will be different depending on vehicle options and model) As far as the brown/red wire goes, as stated in this thread it is the power feed for the trailer light module. It however does not leave Fuse 78 in the engine fuse box. Like others, mine was populated with a fuse but after removing the fuse I found there was only one pin under it -meaning the fuse box is supplying power to the fuse but no wire leaving the fuse. I confirmed this on the wiring harness side by removing the harness cover and locating where the wire should be but isn't. Should also be said that there a few brown/red wires that leave this box. The harnesses mentioned in this thread in the right passenger side foot well (the 2 big connectors) don't contain this wire (mine had power in and out at this connector) and as stated the wire is missing in the fuse box so cant be this wire. Now there is a harness next to or right near the OBD2 port that does contain a brown/red wire of a larger gauge on one side (from the vehicle) but does not have a wire leaving through the firewall (to the fuse box). I believe this is the wire we are after that runs back to the capped harness for the trailer light module (will confirm 100% when I get to the install). If it is, it would be quite easy to remove this wire and feed it from the interior fuse panel that sits right above this connector (though not the easiest fuse box to access - at least on the MKX) utilizing an add a fuse on one of the spares as mentioned. The lower valance many have said can be trimmed instead of replaced and has the cut template marked out, this I cant confirm on either model yet, only plan to remove the bumper once but will update once I complete (I hope its there) the install as well as any issues or tips and tricks. I've attached Fords install sheet, though the videos are better - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXouOaDJqhE. Hope this helps someone. 2015_CMY_Edge_Trailer_Hitch_FINAL.pdf
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