itsnotdustin

I assume you sold the car already? I was interested in the downpipes and intercooler. 

Do you have any experience with hollowed out cats on the edge?

Has this sold?

Anyone else selling their old Sway Bar?

1. Since the blow off valve is electric there's no real flutter happening, they more-so just passing "gas".

2. Wastegates are integrated so you're looking at a lot of work to change to external wastegates. Bolt-on upgrade turbos also use integrated wastegates. 

3. The Borla cat back is high quality and sounds about as good as a domestic v6 can sound (meh). It's still pretty quiet and only noticeable during acceleration, its silent while cruising and idling.

4. The intakes are mainly just an airbox replacement with cone filters instead of a panel filter. Any intake should do a similar job. There is a "ram air" mod you could do that would involve modifying the panels behind the grille, not sure if it's worth it.

5. Livernois canned tunes or Unleashed custom tunes seem to be equally reputable. Livernois uses a proprietary device while Unleashed uses SCT or HP Tuner devices. I think Unleashed with an HP Tuner device would be the best combo. 

I have some of the mods, you're asking about recently installed on my Edge. I could get some clips of the exhaust, intake or blow-off if you're interested. 

I got the lowering springs installed the on Edge. Gotta say I'm a huge fan. The wheel gap has been reeled in and looks a lot better but still leaves enough height that I don't have to worry about parking curbs or speed bumps. There is some rake still there which I'm not a fan of but it will help out if I ever decide to tow any light loads. The ride quality is a little stiffer than expected but very manageable. With the progressive spring rate, small bumps in the road are only felt slightly more than before, but with bigger bumps the stiffness ramps in quickly and is slightly more jarring than expected. Overall it leaves me confident that the suspension won't bottom out while keeping a comfy ride on normal roads.

And with the last of the images uploaded, that leaves me without much else to add to this post. I'd count this as a 2-phase build with intake, exhaust, and tuner being phase 1 and wheels, tires, and springs being phase 2. Phase 3 would probably consist of an intercooler, downpipes, and aa more aggressive tune but I'm not sure when or if that would happen. End goal would be to add the ss-tuning body kit but the cost of that with paint means I need to save some money first. Thanks for checking out the build.

1 hour ago, Cookiemonster117 said:

Have you noticed the intake lid coming off while driving? I know there were issues with the clear one.

Yes the cap has come off on mine already. There are small detents on the upper airbox that are supposed to hold the cover in place but the cover barely puts any pressure on them to fasten it. Easy fix is to drill a small hole in the upper airbox and throw a small panel fastener in there to hold it in place. I could post a picture but anyone with the intake will know what I mean. it's a small issue, but an issue none the less.

I installed the Draw-tite hitch the same time as the exhaust. There are some good install guides on youtube for this but they dont cover the Sport. The only difference for the Sport I learned is there is a plastic panel with a heat shield that fastens the bottom lip of the bumper to the body. This is removed completely leaving the lower portion of the bumper a tad flimsy. Zip ties were put in place in the meantime until I can make a couple small brackets to fasten the bumper to the body. 

The Borla exhaust is now installed. There are some points of concern.

1- The connection from the factory downpipe to the exhaust is very tight. I suggest heating the pipe or widening the pipe a tad before installation. Not a big deal.

2- The exhaust tip lines up fine but its not dead center of the fascia. Its on the inner side of the fascia.

3- The exhaust pipe is the same size as factory - 2 1/4". I was a little surprised stock pipe would be that big. No performance gains expected after learning this.

4- The deal breaker - the resonator makes contact with the driveshaft carrier bearing. I actually crushed the resonator a bit to make it fit. It was a sloppy job but I knew this wasn't going to be a guaranteed fit.

With all that said, this is an exhaust for a 2019 Edge ST going on a 2018. My recommendation would be to modify the factory exhaust if you're looking for more sound/flow. Either delete the stock resonator or stock muffler. Since there is no upgrade in pipe diameter, it's not worth going with an aftermarket exhaust since there is no performance increases to be had. 

The intake finally arrived after a couple month wait. This was a test fit really since AFE stated that the intake only fit 2019+ Edge ST. Luckily for me it was a bolt-on fit with no issue or modification. This a metal upper airbox with plastic cap that replaces the factory upper airbox. It's latched in with the factory latches. With the cap on, there is no difference in sound and I haven't datalogged intake temps. I doubt temps change much with this setup since the intercooler is the weak link.

I pulled the badges and exhaust tips off. Painted the exhaust tips with flat black header paint and replaced the badges with some options from amazon. Amazon has a metal "Sport" badge similar to the explorer sport. I do not recommend this badge as its smaller than factory and is hollow making the double sided tape have little surface area to stick to. The other badge is a blacked out ecoboost badge 5 1/4" in length. Overall turned out great. I will probably replace the sport badge in the future though. The picture isnt great but I'm more than happy with how it turned out. 

44 minutes ago, Jeffandshi247 said:

 

one last question. If any of y’all have a aftermarket amplifier hooked up in your ford edge, can you PLEASE submit a photo of the best location y’all found for your amp ground cable!! The only spot I found was the back bolt of the rear seat right under the flap that fold down with the seats… there’s no room now to move, set up and make look nice my amp location.

That location is also in my install post. The rear panel opposite the factory subwoofer (left panel if you're facing the rear of the vehicle) has multiple ground locations. You'll need to sand paint off the contact area around the hole and use a small nut and bolt to fasten it in place. 

To get that panel off, you'll need to remove the bottom middle scuff plate (2 tree fasteners need to be removed then it can be popped off). After that plate is removed, youll have to pop the bottom section first near the scuff plate, then pull the panel inward to pop the other fasteners. You will need to slide the rubber weather stripping off the panel to get a grip. The fasteners holding the panels in do not like to be pushed in and out multiple times.....I've had to bend those back into shape pretty much every time i remove the panel.

behind my panel were 2 wires grounded and 1 wire just hanging there. Let me know if you have the same. I'm curious what the hanging wire is to.

I have a 2018 Edge Sport with the Sony system. I have a line output converter (LOC) tapped into the subwoofer wires. I have a Skar 1500w amp and 4 10s. 

The problem: Every time I turn my car on, the subwoofers pulse 3 times. It's a slow but loud pulse/hum. I'm pretty sure it is an issue with the LOC, but before I cut it out and replace with another one, I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. 

I'm using this LOC - https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-40540-NVX-XFLOC2.html

Here is the install post for reference - 

Update: I ordered an Audiocontrol LC1i.....we will see if that fixes the problem. 

Update 2: I installed the Audiocontrol LC1i and it didn't fix the issue. With more research I found a post saying the ANC (active noise cancelling) could be the issue. Well I opened Forscan, pulled up the DACMC module, and disabled both ANC and Engine Enhancement. Problem solved. https://www.forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8413

I just got done with this install. here is the post - 

I extended the wires and tapped into the factory subwoofer wires. This will ensure the right frequencies are used. I have the LOC sitting next to the amp in the back. I have a problem though....every time I start the car, the subs pulse a few times...I have yet to solve the issue. I know its LOC/audio feed related. 

The fresh air intake mod from @Xtra came in recently. It's amazing what this person can design in their spare time. The fitment wasn't perfect but with a little wiggling, all fasteners snapped right in. Also included where 5 longer fasteners that were needed for the front.  Hood needed to be pushed down, I assume that gets easier after a few heat cycles. It will be interesting to see what this does for IAT's. I will be able to data to see if there is any difference.

Update: After install I had a nasty pulse/hum every time I started up the car but stopped shortly after. After some googling I decided to disable Active Noise Cancelling in the car. To do this with FORScan, go to the DACMC module to disable it. You can also disable Engine Noise Enhancement while you're in there. 

Started the amp install starting with the power wire, which is always the hardest part. I used this forum for help. A couple posts in particular. 

The first post pointed me in the direction of a large plug on the firewall that is unused. I used a uni-bit to drill a hole just large enough for the wire and ran it through. It's soft rubber so no grommet was required. This plug is accessible behind the battery. I was able to fish the the wire through using a magnetic pick-up which did not require me to unhook the battery, only slide it forward. The second post pointed me to a good ground location near the factory amp. I didn't want to pull any panels unless I had to so I'm glad I found this post because I wouldn't have found a solid ground otherwise.

Since I'll be using an LOC for audio signal, I ordered a blown factory Ford sub and will be pulling the green harness of off that to plug into the factory harness. I try to avoid cutting or tapping into factory wires as much as possible, so instead I will unplug the factory sub in the car and wire up the LOC to the spare plug I ordered. The LOC I bought also acts as the fuse/remote wire and will trigger the amp when an audio signal is heard. 

A note for the picture above: The wire that I have grounded along with the amp wire was just hanging loose when I first looked behind the panel. I don't know if its supposed to be grounded or not. If anyone knows what that ground wire does, I'm curious to find out. 

Im not much for wire management as long as it is hidden and easily removeable. I drilled a few holes in the foam container. 1 for power, 1 for ground, and a notch for the speaker wires and loc wires. 

This is the speaker setup I had from my old suv. I will probably get rid of 2 subs and switch from a sealed to a vented box. 

This is insane. Do you have any in-depth build lists or video of your setup? I'm curious was the limits of this engine are. Is this a stock internals motor? There's no telling how far you can push an iron block.

Edit: I just saw your sig with the 3.0tt swap which I guess is aluminum? I just learned about the 2.7 being a CGI block. Didn't realize a swap was an option. Crazy how much modding you can do to a crossover. 

Mudflaps installed. I'll say I copied @tsquale on this after I saw them post a picture in the gallery last week. 

These are amazon mudflaps but the fit is pretty solid. I had no idea how to use the included hardware on the front flaps considering there was nothing to screw into once the factory push pins were removed. I ended up having to order 6 u-clip fasteners and 2 christmas tree fasteners to get the front installed. The u-clips and bolts went into the wheel well while the christmas tree fastener went into the bottom. The rear flaps used factory hardware with no issue. After install they are rock solid.

8 minutes ago, sdpupillo said:

 

I love the carbon look, figured I'd might as well spend the extra and not regret it later. Now I want to get the engine cover hydrodipped to match it. Maybe one day. 

 

I closed the hood very carefully at first and it didn't close all the way. Gave it a little more force and it snapped shut. Hopefully with some heating cycles, it'll conform where it won't need any additional pressure to close. Very impressed and have no regrets!

Good to hear. I'm excited to get mine in.

1 hour ago, onyxbfly said:

I see what you did there. No pun intended! Stance is on point!  You're in Florida! Its easy to understand and appreciate your view on ride-ability and comfort with stretched tires etc..

I'm in Philly where the highways are slightly better than most streets and that's subjective to what part of Philly you're in. Two benefits of having abysmal street conditions is: one rarely rushes through Philly because the streets can eat your wheels and tires alive and you actually save gas.

 

Great pics!

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks! Yeah I'm pretty lucky with the roads around my area. There are potholes but most are avoidable. I forgot to mention that this set up is noticeably lighter than the stock 20's. Pretty impressive considering these are 1" taller and 2.5" wider. 

On 9/12/2021 at 1:58 PM, sdpupillo said:

Received my intake mod from @Xtra and it fit like a charm. Love it! 

Wow that looks great. I just ordered the ABS one....now I'm thinking I should have got the carbon. Either way, the fit and finish looks professional. Any issues with hood closing?

I decided to stick with the wheels and had the tires mounted. The wheels are pretty flush with the fender and overall the stance is aggressive but not overdone. The 10.5" width wheels  makes the car look planted. the 265/40's have a slight stretch but looks great on the car. Overall completely stoked on appearance. The backspacing is tight but has 0 interference.  I felt no discernable difference in ride quality. 

2 hours ago, Special_K said:

 

Damn, looks like a +35 would have been perfect! 

After looking at the other Edge with 22x10.5 wheels, I'm going to give these another test fit. The other Edge's fitment looked good and while the offset wasn't listed....it has to be close or the same as what I have. If it doesn't work out, I'll have to swap to the 21x9. It'll be a guaranteed fit but its out of stock for a couple months.

Educational post: The test fit didn't go as expected. While the backspacing seems to be close but perfectly fine, the wheel might be sticking out of the fender by a small amount. I will do another test fit with the suspension loaded to get an idea of where the fitment will be with the car on the ground. It's hard to tell how it will look with a tire mounted. 

Wheel Size - 21x10.5

Offset - +45mm

Backspacing - 7.5"

I tried to find other examples of what the wheels will look like and this is the closest I could find which looks good in my opinion.....but I dont want to mount my tires and not like the look considering they arent returnable at that point  - 

The wheels and tires got delivered. I'm going to test fit for wheels for backspacing clearance first then will go get them mounted up by this weekend. I will get some better pictures loaded eventually. 

JLT catch can came in today. The fit and finish on it was perfect. Install was so easy.