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  1. Finished the fiberglass part of the adaptor mold today. All the vacuum holes are drilled, the slots are cut, and the mounting bolts are installed. .
  2. Considering it says 104 in the shade on my patio I accomplished a lot. Here is the prototype latch that will hold down the V3 top half to the adaptor. It will take two of these riveted to the adaptor to do that. This is first of the items I would like to be CNC milled, even if they are easy to cutout by hand. Considering that they are hardly visible when installed it matters little but little things mater.
  3. Xtra

    Fresh Air Intake Mod

    I talked about this a couple of pages back. If you have by following you may remember. I was warned by the plastic shop that prices were going up after I did the last batch. And today they gave me the new price with a 8 unit minimum order. The ABS V2 intakes are now going to be $125 . That’s $ 7 bucks more than before. When they first told me about the price increase after the last batch they said it could be as much as $10 bucks. Though I don’t want any increase in price, 7 is better than 10 . It still sucks as I do my best , but it seems like everything is going up these days and I don’t have any control over it . Thanks to everyone for your support.
  4. Once some parts are vacuum formed and fitted, I will have a better idea on what design is better and most cost effective. The adapter should have some aluminum parts CNC to give it a professional look. The aluminum parts on the first couple adapters will be done by hand to perfect the design and for testing. Once that is done I will look into having them CNC. Each of its four sides needs a different aluminum part machined to latch it together. All the CNC work may bring the cost similar to the bottom half I have now. We will have to see what half is the better half.
  5. I have been working on another mold.. As I said in the beginning things may change, and I am posting as I am doing, so you will see my wins and losses. Now that the custom bottom half mold is complete, I have been working in another direction. What I have done is create an adaptor that will attach the V3 top half to the stock OEM bottom half. I hope. The bottom half I have now does work and has been road tested, the adaptor has not. I have almost finished the adaptor mold, and it needs some sanding around the anchors, and vacuum slots cut into it. Only the wood base still needs to be fabricated so it is getting very close to completion. Here you can see the mounting bolt holes it still need some work before it's finish. After that it will be ready to mount to the wood base. This is the top of the adaptor mold with the vacuum holes drilled, polished, and ready to go. Upon completion I will take the two molds I made to the plastic shop and have some test parts made.
  6. Xtra

    Fresh Air Intake Mod

    I have to apologize for the delay I contacted the CF vendor this morning (Monday) and they made the material, but it was the wrong thickness it was 1/16 inch and it needs to be double that 1/8 inch thick. This is just another reason that yours will most likely will be among the last of the V2s made in CF. The material is beautiful, but the vendor is flaky
  7. I've followed you on this forum for some time and what really caught my eye was the Rotora BBK you installed on your `16 some time ago. I was so impressed with your write-up on it that I called Loren at Rotora and ordered a complete front and rear set from him for my `16 Edge Sport.

    I installed the kit just about 1 year ago and everything has worked well beyond my expectations,, until about 1 month ago.

    I have developed a loud clicking/grinding noise in the front that I just can't figure out.

    I have had the fronts off 3 times and inspected EVERYTHING. I've checked the torque on the rotor to hat and have called Loren twice. ( a tech at the Ford dealership says its in the brakes) He wants me to send the rotors back to them to be checked or buy new front rotors and pads for $1400.


    I thought I'd reach out to you to see if you've had any issues with your BBK from Rotora.


    Thank you,



  8. Xtra

    Fresh Air Intake Mod

    I have started the refreshing of the mold so it will be ready when needed. I am getting ready to do another run of the ABS and Carbon Fiber V2s so now is the time to place orders. PM me.
  9. Hello MichaelTM, Thanks, glad you like the way it looks. What you are seeing on the right side of the photo is the auxiliary air input. It provides supplementary or additional air to the Air Box from a secondary source. By secondary source I mean another source of air besides the OEM snorkel. For the majority of cars it will be unnecessary as the V3 will supply all the air a stock car could need. The auxiliary air input is for use with tuned cars, or cars that have custom turbos or other high performance mods. Even for tuned cars it is unnecessary, but would not hurt. The Aux air input works with the snorkel to supply large amounts of air to the air box thus allowing a modded engine to breath with as little restriction as possible. Gasoline engines are basically air pumps. Air comes in, fuel is burned creating more air that moves the piston, then the used air exits out the tail pipe. Thus an air pump. This is why intake and exhaust modifications are so popular. Moving air into and out of an engine with as little restriction as possible is a great recipe for Horse Power. *The aux air will be an option and it is on there in this test fitting so I know the hood will close.
  10. The blue tape on the air box lid is to protect it. It has taken a lot of abuse and even with the tape in place it is starting to show some wear and tear. There are scratches, bits of glue and fiberglass stuck to it, tool marks, dust and dirt, and a sawed off corner. But even with those flaws it is absolutely perfect for development work.
  11. This is a mock-up with the new base mold in place and the lid just resting on it. I needed to see if the hood would close with the aux air hose installed because it sits a little higher than the other/ first base. The aux air hose is just resting there and not going anywhere. Also needed to check if there was any interference anyplace else . After checking the new bottom half mold and finding no problems with interference, progress can continue.
  12. Here I am checking the new base mold for clearance with the fuse block. ( I think it is the fuse block ) And it clears just fine after a lot of work and several tries that is.. .
  13. Here I am test fitting the new base / bottom half of the V3 to the top half. At first in order to clear the headlight I had to trim the air box lid corner. After some adjustments it now clears and no mods to the lid will be necessary no matter which base I end up with.
  14. The bottom half is still a work in progress, and I have not posted much about that. I have one bottom half already working and the mold made for it, but it is very labor intensive, and the cost is high just for the parts alone. I am working on a second bottom half, that if I can get it working, will save money and labor costs. One of the big problems I ran into was how to attach the halves together. I was thinking of bolting them together with threaded U nuts, but that was not good enough for me. Last night I had an epiphany on how to do it using sock OEM Air Box latches. This was a major breakthrough and why I am posting this info now. This first idea that is out. Requires tools and machine screws that can come loose. New idea requires no tools, no screws to tighten or fall out.
  15. The V3 Air Box top half is finished, the design is locked in. There will be option boxes to be checked for the top half : 1. Wet oiled, washable, reusable Air Filter. 2. Dry media Air Filter, non washable, when it gets dirty it will need replacing. 3. Filter Sock, fits both wet and dry filters. Best for use in dry dusty conditions, like Australia's Outback. 4. Stock Black Finish 5. Real Carbon Fiber 3K tow with 2x2 weave and high gloss gel coat. 6. Auxiliary Air input with adaptor and hose. 7. ????? TBD