Jump to content


Edge Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


About Tmaf901

  • Rank
    New Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Tmaf901

    Engine Dies while Driving

    Ask her what exactly happens. Hard shifting by the transmission as shes slowing down. I assume loss of acceleration. All dash lights on? Ive been having a problem with the symptoms above and I truthfully think its to do with the computer module that takes all the sensor data in. I think it errors out and causes this. No stored codes - read by a ford dealer each time. No trace back to and issues. Check engine was on, but it doesn't store the code. Maybe it cant, because the whole ECM is confused and so it cant store any code 🤷‍♂️. Its a major intermediate saftey issue imo.
  2. Unfortunately by posting here I have manifested the problem back into existence. I had a long drive today (80 miles or so), its damp since it rained last night, humid as well as condensation built on my windshield while driving (the climate wasn't on at the time). About 5-10 miles into my drive this issue happened again for the third time since owning my car. I went to pass a vehicle as I was already in a time crunch and as I was switching over the lane to pass the acceleration stopped. All the warnings came on like last time. A warning I noticed this time was about engine coolant temp. In the past I only seen advance trac, BLIS system and many other warnings but I never toggled through them. I always thought this problem was transmission or AWD malfunction until now. Engine coolant temp wouldn't really have anything to do with transmission/awd system would it? At this point I feel its the main computer board causing this issue. Like it errors out, and doesn't know what to do. Everything tries to go back to their neutral position, hence why the transmission shifts so hard as I am slowing down. It tries its best to get back to a neutral or gear 1 on its own. Thats why I loose acceleration, as the throttle body goes back to whatever position it would be in if it wasn't being used. I didnt catch a video, the last two occurrences the one happened on a highway in a bad spot where I couldn't pull over, and today I was already late to my appointment. Let me know your thoughts :). Edit: would it make sense that the ECM (or whatever the main computer of the car is) is where your trouble codes are stored, and since my whole dash lights up which includes a check engine light but after restarting theres no explanation, nothing logged. Maybe that means the ECM is really failing - because when its in its errored state its not able to store information. Its all sorts of confused.
  3. This is my main post about my issue I have been having, its happened two times since I have owned the vehicle. First occurrence was 1-2 months after owning, the second was 1-2 months after the first incident. Since the dealer couldn't give me a good explanation I decided to switch to premium 93 fuel. Its been probably a good 7-8 months now without this issue. Im not going to say gas was causing this issue of mine - but it seems to be the only thing I can link to having fixed it and wanted to update everybody. Personally with the economy and everything I wouldn't be surprised if gas stations are skimping on 87 gas and it just so happens to be harming most vehicles (this is a conspiracy theory… but who really knows).
  4. Most likely the same issue I had in my last post on this thread. Simple fix you can do yourself if it is the 2.7l ecoboost 6 cyl engine. I posted the aftermarket part I used in this thread. Still going strong, no issues anymore. Idk if the part is in the same location or if its the same problem on the 4 cyl 2.0l.
  5. Ford dealer did my oil change, change air filter, checked spark-plugs. According to them (and he brought it out to me) it is pretty black, he said this was carbon buildup. Suggested changing sparks, but the vehicle only has 42,000 miles on it. $300 to do that.. he also suggested an emissions system cleaning service $200. No codes were found (we already knew there wasn't going to be). He seemed to avoid talking about throttle body replacement, suggestion was to grab throttle body cleaner from auto zone. He also said there is cheaper stuff I can get and do myself from an auto store. The only reason their prices are higher is because their services are warrentied which makes sense I guess. Setting up an appointment to get PTU fluid changed, but going to wait on the RDU. Any thoughts on this anybody?
  6. Soo Ive been googling like crazy and I happened to zone in on the individual light errors that I can remember with our specific model of the car and the issue we’ve been having. I remember during both times that this has happened to me I had a wrench light. For a while I thought that just went with the check engine and didn't really give it a second thought but the wrench indicator shows there is a problem somewhere in the powertrain. Googling there was a 2007 model that I seen had a very similar situation where they were driving and all the sudden their service lights would come on and have harsh shifting, pull over and restart everything is fine. As far as I have gathered, most people suggested a fix by replacing the electric throttle body. There was one other situation on a 2011 and 2013 sport version where the same situation occurred and it was suggested there to replace the electric throttle body as well. Do you remember there being a wrench light (there was definitely plenty of warning lights during these instances..). Does this sound like a suitable possible solution? When my vehicle goes to the garage on Wednesday I am going to have them look into it. Maybe they can see if its functioning correctly.
  7. At least I am not alone, I am sure there are more than just us out there experiencing the same issues. Tomorrow I will call the dealer to get it on record again that I am having this issue, as well as talk to them about PTU, RDU, Coolant, and Trans flush prices. Assuming its never been done before, I think its due. Heck, maybe PTU/RDU flushes would fix the issue for all I know. This problem is really an intermittent, undiagnosable issue because there is so many things that could be causing this and nothing pointing to the root of the problem. All we know is this happens when there is a more rapid acceleration.
  8. This sounds EXACTLY like the situation I have been having the past few months. I purchased a 2017 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L ecoboost about 4-5 months ago originally with like 37,000 miles on it. I have driven it 6000 miles since and have done 1 (soon to be 2) oil chances on it. I did post about it, but I figured it was just a fluke issue that happens occasionally because of electronics malfunction (as most cars now adays have a lot of electronic sensors that could fail) until today. It happened again within a month or two of my last posting... Both situations happened where I was changing lanes from slower lane to faster lane of traffic. The first instance happened in a 45mph zone, so I was traveling maybe 30mph at first and hit the accelerator to gain speed to 45 when the dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Initially the transmission made a hard shift, dash lit up, and it made another hard shift when I pulled over and shut it off to turn it back on. Most of the notifications on the dash were to do with advancetrac, parking sensors, cruise control, etc. The second instance (today) I was hopping onto a highway where I was initially traveling 50-60mph in the right lane and moved to left lane to get to 75mph+. My car made a hard clunk again, and my dash lit up saying the same things. I was going to take a video, but unfortunately, I did not have a good location to pull off (very short shoulder, partially in the right lane and in a very bad spot for other vehicles to see me when they were coming around the bend...) so I just shut it off and turned it back on and everything is normal, yet again. It's very concerning as this can cause accidents quite easily depending on where it happens. I did not try to accelerate during these situations, I was more focused on shutting my car off to prevent further damage (if damage was occurring). I was curious if it had something to do with the AWD system not engaging properly. I notice that after a while of driving my car will switch from AWD to FWD which it is supposed to do, but whenever I go to hit the gas enough the car will throw into AWD again, this happens when the transmission shifts from whatever gear its currently in to a lower gear to give you more torque. Maybe it tries to engage but fails to and this causes the transmission to have extra drag (or maybe not as much drag as it expects) since the car thinks it should be in AWD, and this throws everything off..
  9. Very well thought of explanation, I have definitely gunned it more than I should've a few times since owning the car. This problem hasn't occurred since. Im afraid this is only one of too many possible causes lol. Weird transmission upshifts (2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th idk) still happens occasionally mostly when I am costing/making a turn into a parking lot, but not as frequently I have noticed. Being colder up here in NY I would assume thats why I haven't noticed as many.
  10. This is all very useful information that may help somebody in the near future. Yes the climate system has an automatic feature, however I hate that feature and keep it off haha. I have a radar detector hooked up (it turns off when all the electronics in the car automatically turn off, or after 1 hr of no GPS activity) but when on it tells me “Low Voltage” if the voltage level drops low enough. Usually I’ll receive this message when I start my car (if the device is already on) and this is normal. However the day this had happened I drove my car down the street, pulled off and shut my car off and waited 30 second before restarting hoping to see the system reset but it did not. One thing I remember though is hearing that “Low Voltage” noise prior to even restarting my car. So it’s possible my battery could be starting to fail. Its something good to be aware of. :).
  11. Something to look into definitely. If you don't mind explaining where such resistor would be found that would be cool. It hasn't done it sense, was curious if it was a fluke electronic malfunction. I am starting to feel fluke electronic malfunctions are common on this ford edge (since this would be the second time a strange occurrence has happened since I have owned the vehicle but hasn't shown up again lol).
  12. This is excellent to know :). I tried the reset but ai don't think I did it right, your explanation was perfect at explaining how to do it. Ill try it next time if it happens again. This vehicle is new to me (3-4 months) it has 40,000 miles on it I haven't changed it at all. If its easy to do I will look into it
  13. Hello, Last night my climate control was working fine however this morning when I started my car up to head to work my climate blower was stuck on full blast. I tried to turn the car off and on multiple time, turn the climate system off and on, turn it down with the physical button and every time I did that it says “Fan 0” as if its at a 0 speed and I couldn't change it at all. I googled and searched this forum for an answer but I couldn't really find anything. My settings when I shut my car off was not auto or anything like that, and the auto light in the sync system was not lit up, however my auto settings for just the defrost/front/feet settings was set to auto, but that didn't extend to the fan box like it would normally. Long story short I just started hitting all the buttons, and every one of them worked (temp would change, actuator would work, heated/cooled seats worked) everything worked except that fan which was stuck on high. I finally was able to hit the “auto” button which didn't change the fan speed at the time, but did put that auto box around the fan setting which was at least something. I turned auto back off and had full fan control again, sort of like it was stuck in an auto all by itself but I had never clicked or had my car in an auto setting for climate, so somewhere along the line my car had changed that setting on its own. I just wanted to tell my story for anybody else who may be having this issue :).
  14. Just wanted to update everybody about my issue, I ended up ordering an aftermarket purge valve to replace the old one. I just put it on today and had my first fill up. Idle seems to be smooth, no rough idling. Im confident this has fixed my issues. The aftermarket part I used specs: Duralast PV967 (V21278) (https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/canister-purge-valve/p/duralast-canister-purge-valve-pv967/591684_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ENM:8362629075&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhMOMBhDhARIsAPVml-GteHZzyPO1AY6HqpvKcC8IfISkt9MCA66sPspWSpCPoI2XRi-tNUgaAi6iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
  15. I think this issue is related to those check codes me and you posted on the other thread? P144A for me. My vehicle has also had this stutter issue right after fill-up. 38000 miles on it. Go to the dealer on Monday, will reply to one of the threads when I have their diagnosis. Ill add my check code has went off since, but I am sure its still in the system. EDIT: Ive went to the dealer, dealer confirmed P144A code. Dealer suggested replacing that purge valve as stated above, quoted me $185 for the part and 30 minutes if labor. I asked if it would be covered under warranty and sadly he couldn't make it happen. Ive decided Ill buy an aftermarket part for $50-60 and replace it myself, dealership said that was probably a good idea as well.