Possible PCM failure? 2017 Edge Sport.

[Tmaf901]

Hello,

 

I kindly ask for anybody's opinion on this specific matter. It's getting quite irritating to have such an intermediate issue with no real direction to go in.

 

I've owned my 2017 Ford Edge Sport for little over a year now. When I first got the car when accelerating (entering highway/passing other cars mostly) my car jolts as if the transmission shifts down and down and down and I get a whole lot of different error messages on my dash and I think it's different messages each time. Transmission Failure, Coolant Failure, AWD Failure, Blindspot Monitoring Failure, Traction Control Failure, etc etc etc. The time of this posting it happened there was only transmission/wrench icon and I decided to try to take a video of the dash but noticed there wasn't many warnings like before however it was the same exact situation I have been in. I noticed this time an airbag light was on. I kept it in drive for a little bit this time, and I was going to see if I could drive it a bit forward after having stopped on the highway, but the engine was very rough sounding and shaking pretty bad. Once I put the vehicle in park the shaking reduced but the RPM was bouncing pretty rapidly between 750-1000. I shut the car off and restarted (and.. everything returns to normal operating conditions).

 

NO DATA IS SAVED ONCE THE VEHICLE IS RESTARTED. NO CODES. NOTHING.

 

I'm just trying to get anybody's opinion to help me in a direction I should take this. This is very clearly going to cause an accident.

 

My theroy is the PCM. Maybe the spark/coil pack. Has ANYBODY experienced this before?? Thank you.

Edited August 9, 2022 by Tmaf901

[1004ron]

Sounds similar to what I experienced except mine was a "No Crank".

 

What code reader are you using?

 

 

[Tmaf901]

22 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

Sounds similar to what I experienced except mine was a "No Crank".

 

What code reader are you using?

 

 

 

I use a simple OBD WIFI tool with OBD Fusion, but I was told by the ford dealer I may not be able to pull up everything stored with that. I took it to the ford dealer each time this has happened, except the last time. They are not able to pull up any data on this situation.

[1004ron]

If you're wanting to scan for codes yourself you'll need to use a good OBDII adapter and FORScanLite.

 

Not sure why the dealership didn't retrieve any codes.

 

 

[Tmaf901]

21 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

If you're wanting to scan for codes yourself you'll need to use a good OBDII adapter and FORScanLite.

 

Not sure why the dealership didn't retrieve any codes.

 

 

It wasn't just one dealership I went too. I went to one 2 hrs away, and my closest local one. I explained the situation as I have here and told them to look into the computer for any causes. They always come back with not being able to find anything.

[Cerberus]

if they can't find any codes, one possible cause is the PCM is losing its 12V+ battery feed that would allow it to remember the codes & freeze frame data.

Of course it is also possible that the PCM itself it cooked or has an internal failure, but its better to start with the cheaper tests..

I don't know the power distribution well enough to tell you where to start looking exactly, but i'd be checking grounds and power connections,

relays if applicable, even the condition of the main connectors at the PCM for oxidation, water or corrosion.

 

If all that checks out, a harness wiggle test is sometimes useful

 

Then i'd move on to the big ticket item.. the PCM itself

Edited August 14, 2022 by Cerberus

[Tmaf901]

2 hours ago, Cerberus said:

if they can't find any codes, one possible cause is the PCM is losing its 12V+ battery feed that would allow it to remember the codes & freeze frame data.

Of course it is also possible that the PCM itself it cooked or has an internal failure, but its better to start with the cheaper tests..

I don't know the power distribution well enough to tell you where to start looking exactly, but i'd be checking grounds and power connections,

relays if applicable, even the condition of the main connectors at the PCM for oxidation, water or corrosion.

 

If all that checks out, a harness wiggle test is sometimes useful

 

Then i'd move on to the big ticket item.. the PCM itself

So, I was at my friends the other day and her mechanic friend said this exact same thing. We went out to check and my battery is not the official battery. Its another battery, much smaller and isn't even tied down. It has a lot of wiggle room to move around. In addition, the ground wire isn't the official ground wire, its an attachment piece so that it can connect to that battery.

 

Could a battery coming disconnected for a split second cause all these issues to happen? Its just strange because you would think with the bumpy roads I endure it would happen much more frequently, but it only happens upon acceleration into a highway or traffic it seems.

[Cerberus]

20 minutes ago, Tmaf901 said:

So, I was at my friends the other day and her mechanic friend said this exact same thing. We went out to check and my battery is not the official battery. Its another battery, much smaller and isn't even tied down. It has a lot of wiggle room to move around. In addition, the ground wire isn't the official ground wire, its an attachment piece so that it can connect to that battery.

 

Could a battery coming disconnected for a split second cause all these issues to happen? Its just strange because you would think with the bumpy roads I endure it would happen much more frequently, but it only happens upon acceleration into a highway or traffic it seems.

intermittent battery disco is not higly likely to be the cause (but not impossible and easy to fix, so definitely fix that) only because the battery is not providing power to the vehicle while it is running, the alternator is providing that power.

However, that said, given your description of the battery mounting and electrical connections, I would definitely be suspicious of any electrical connections on the vehicle, especially if there is any evidence of anything that has been touched or wrenched in any way.

Whatever your climate is, if you see any likelihood of needing a better battery, I would consider replacing it with the biggest battery you can stuff in there, secure it well, and clean up all electrical connections to it, as well as protect them against corrosion with grease. I like to use No-ox but have used dielectric grease too without problem.. 

You might want to peek at the alternator electrical connections too while you are poking around, specifically the output heavy gauge wire.   

[Tmaf901]

Im not sure if I am allowed to post video links… if not just remove the link or inform me how I can upload a video appropriately to this forum.

 

https://streamable.com/2kk4fl

 

The past two times this has happened was driving only like 40 mph, and this video I was accelerating pretty aggressively to pass a car that pulled out in front of me (on a 4 lane road, 2 in each direction). All that shows up is the wrench icon, no other indicators besides the airbag light. If you notice though, the RPM gauge is fluttering a lot - in park. In drive the engine is even more shaky.

 

It also seemed as if my electric steering assist was a bit harder to turn, I am sure that happened each time I just didn't notice until now as the spot to pull off in required me to turn the wheel as I was going really slowly.

 

I also had to try to accelerate to get across the one lane and to the side of the road, and it didn't seem like my car was really accelerating any.

 

Edit: battery has been secured the best they could BEFORE this happened this time.

Edited August 19, 2022 by Tmaf901

[omar302]

If I were you, I'd try to read the error codes while the problem is still present, before turning off the vehicle. More specifically, using ForScan.

 

I remember before in some older models where the throttle body would fail and caused issues including getting into limp mode, but trouble codes would get erased once the vehicle is turned off and restarted. 

[Tmaf901]

5 hours ago, omar302 said:

If I were you, I'd try to read the error codes while the problem is still present, before turning off the vehicle. More specifically, using ForScan.

 

I remember before in some older models where the throttle body would fail and caused issues including getting into limp mode, but trouble codes would get erased once the vehicle is turned off and restarted. 

Initially I thought throttle body malfunction, or AWD malfunction. Then with all the different errors that appear on the dash I started thinking PCM failure because it was different each time. The past two times its only been the one wrench icon, and airbag light.

 

Im taking it to ford this morning, they will try to read any data they can on the computer but I am sure they wont be able to pull up anything as they said this last time.

 

Edit: guy that told me to “bring it in as soon as this issue happens so they can at least read codes” 5 days ago says they are too busy today to do that for my car. I scheduled foe the 29th.

Im sure any data - if there is - will be long gone by then. ? 

 

Edit: I just purchased the OBDLink MX+ to use with forscan lite on my phone will be here tomorrow. As of now all I have is a cheap ELM 327 thing off ebay, so some features may not be available but I plugged it in to read codes and under “parking aid module” I have codes U0100 and U0101. If that helps anybody.

Edited August 19, 2022 by Tmaf901

[Cerberus]

I hate to say this, but the random  symptoms sounds somewhat like a flood car problem..

[Tmaf901]

40 minutes ago, Cerberus said:

I hate to say this, but the random  symptoms sounds somewhat like a flood car problem..

Off topic: Its ironic you said that, because I had a dream two nights ago I drove my car into a river on accident lmaoo.

 

Regardless, I feel like there would be more problems. It seems to me like a pcm or tcm problem, or wiring between them idk.

 

Overall, I love the vehicle.

[Tmaf901]

Dealership stated there was no codes, but I received my OBDLink and used forscan to find these codes. Some of them have dates back to 2018 before I owned the vehicle.

 

Parking Aid Module

U0100:00-28 Lost Communication with ECM

U0101:00-28 Lost Communication with TCM

 

Rear Gate/Trunk Module

B1306:12-08 Liftgate Ajar Switch

B144F:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

B145D:11-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

B145D:12-08 Tailgate/Liftgate/Boot/Trunk...

U0101:87-08 Lost communication with TCM

U0294:87-08 Lost communication with Po...

 

Occupant Classification System Module

U0401:00-28 Invalid Data received from ECM

 

Cruise Control Module

U0401:86-28 Invalid data received from ECM

 

Antilock Braking System

U0428:81-60 Invalid Data received from...

U0104:00-20 Lost communication with Cr...

U3003:16-68 Battery Voltage

B1111:53-20 Electric Park Brake Enable

P193B:86-20 Throttle/Pedal Signal

U0100:00-20 Lost communication with ECM

 

Drivers Door Module

B1165:15-08 Left Front Puddle Lamp Output

 

Restraint Control Module

B00A0:68-28 Occupant Classification System...

 

Power Steering Control Module

U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM

U0401:00-08 Invalid Data Recieved from ECM

 

Instrument Panel Control Module

U0100:00-08 Lost communication with ECM

U0104:00-08 Lost Communication with Cr...

U3003:16-08 Battery Voltage

 

I've done a lot of research on individual codes. Obviously, there are lots of loss of communication with the ECM. Going to have dealership check computer connections, I guess. If you have any thoughts, feel free to let me know. Some of these codes have a date and freeze-frame data that is dated for 2018 before I owned the car.

[Cerberus]

50 minutes ago, Tmaf901 said:

 Obviously, there are lots of loss of communication with the ECM. Going to have dealership check computer connections, I guess. If you have any thoughts, feel free to let me know. Some of these codes have a date and freeze-frame data that is dated for 2018 before I owned the car.

1. The fact that the dealer said they found no codes but ypu found codes dating back to before your ownership of the vehicle would tell me that is not someplace I'd ever want to business with again Period.

 

2. The slew of codes and comms issues can possibly be attributed to a poor attempt at diagnostics by a crappy tech or prior owner, so after full documentation of the codes and freeze frame data, I'd personally wipe all codes and probably even reset adaptation tables, plus check battery capacity and terminals for tight clean connection. 

 

3. After 1 & 2 are complete, if codes come back, you now have something to chase down, as old codes are literally yesterday's news. Find out what is current. 

 

4. I might, while the battery is disconnected to inspect the terminals, disco some computers from their electrical connections to inspect for any corrosion or hints of water ingress, and if you were inclined to do that, do it before resetting all codes

 

5. Good luck

[Tmaf901]

Just wanted to update everybody on this issue. After taking it to the last dealer I went too, they guaranteed me that placing a new battery and an official OEM ground connection instead of the makeshift ground connection that was originally there would fix my entire problem. I was extremely skeptical but nonetheless I paid the outrageous price to have that done. Its been 6-8 months I want to say now and absolutely no more problems as of now. Seems like it all went away, moral of the story is if you have electrical based issues that make absolutely no sense - check the ground first *facepalm*.

 

 

Edit on January 6th, 2024.

 

Nearly been a year since this post, never had the problem again. Problem can be marked as 100% fixed at this point.

Edited January 6 by Tmaf901
Last update

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

well we have the right to assume fundamental things such as ground connections are sturdy. but yes, checking grounds is never a bad idea ... IF you know where they are lol.