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what have u found?

what's the problem u think? the filter inside the can doesn't allow enough air go trough? The hoses are pretty thick, but they are regular, like a heater core hoses. So why it works flawlessly then and does its job? If it works fine for 400+ miles - do u think is there any danger for the engine?

So I installed an oil catch can approximately 400+ miles ago. I've got a table spoon of s*it in it since then. And just today I open the hood showing it to my friend with engine running I noticed that rubber hoses almost flat(engine runs just fine, no codes). So I think should I replace those rubber hoses with a plastic tube or just keep like that if it has been running 400+ miles with no problems?

because of set of tires u'll get rid of the car?

why did u changed VVT solenoids? Where u got them from? Did u check the top around connectors on them if they are oiled since then?

Any suggestions? I think I'll try to clean the seals and solenoid carefully and apply an RTV around. So if the oil still going to appear on the top of solenoid it means the solenoid itself is defective(leaking trough itself)? Bank 1 had that leak almost right away since I replaced it, bank 2 just started to get a tiny bit oiled( P.S.: solenoids seals are new and(maybe) leak, spark plug seals still original and they don't leak. I wish it not a solenoid, cz I watched a video it's possible to replace solenoid seals without valve covers off.. So as I mentioned in the other thread - I still have a little engine vibration. I've just found an information if the VCT solenoid leaks then the engine could run rough damaging timing components. But since I replaced VCT solenoids 7k miles ago - I've never seen any MIL or any stored codes at all.

do u wanna say driving with no dipstick, for example, won't affect ur oil pressure? That's pretty similar situation as a catch can with an air filter. Ok, I'll try and then I'll post results.

according to the information I've read - it definitely will with the air filter attached to the can. Without the filter an air chamber will slightly increase anyway by additional hoses and can's volume, but I think it's not gonna affect the pressure too much.

Alright, that's sad. Looks like I have to use that oil catch can with no air filter on top of it to maintain right engine oil pressure? Those oil catch cans come with an air filter that could be attached on a top of the can or just the plug(to block the hole) instead of an air filter. I'm wondering what's gonna happen with an internal engine oil pressure after that catch can installation - will it get lower which is bad for the engine or not that much?

So I've got some knowledge what u said about. Looks like I have to use that oil catch can with no air filter on top of it to maintain right engine oil pressure? I don't remember if the scan tool will show me an oil pressure on this car - 2009 MKX? I'd like to compare before catch can installation and after. I still have a new PCV valve, but the one I replaced just 5-6k miles ago I doubt it's became bad that fast.

Why? Is there a chip or just a simple resistor?

mine has 121k on it only, full synth oil every 3k miles since I bought it with 104k. I replaced a PCV with an O'Reiilys one at the time I was replacing a water pump(115k). So many ppl say about a PCV but no one says how to check it - that's the simplest PCV ever I think: if it would be defective - there's too much pressure would come out of the oil filler neck - correct?

I got a bad oil consumption: after 1200 miles I added 1qt of oil((( Can't find a problem: no leaks, no blue smoke etc...

I had vibration on the same MKX after I installed an Amazon $30 torque arm. Than I found an OEM one for $80 and it became much better, but still a little vibration... Also I replaced a center bearing on my driveshaft(started tore) and did not apply any lube on splines, now I'm thinking how bad is that...

I've got abnormal oil consumption - I added 1qt after 1300 miles. My aftermarket VVT solenoids get wet with oil on the top around connectors(got 'em from O'Reilly). Compression 10,5-11(the tool was loosing a rubber cone on its end). I've found that the thread on the spark plug was covered with oil. I replaced plugs 5k miles ago using aluminum anti seize on a thread - now it's oiled. No oil around the plug inside plugs chambers...

I'm sorry, I'm not a native - what is a "catch-can"? And it's hard to understand the whole sentence... I know how to do compression and leak down tests, but doing repair I applied a thread-locker everywhere, so I do not want to touch those 6x1 bolts... I can easily start with the PCV, but how to determine 100% the current is not good? I had a vibration, but it was a torque arm, after that still little vibration, more than I got on the same gen Edge with 270k on it. Never ever any codes, new plugs and coils less than 5k miles ago...

Hi guys, after I replaced on my '09 MKX a water pump, phazers, PCV valve, VVT solenoids, valve cover gaskets I got an oil consumption: 1/2 to 1qt after every 1000 miles. No leaks at all... Could be bad PCV valve from O'Reilly? There's nothing special inside... Simplest PCV. How to determine what's wrong? 121k is current mileage, I drive very gently and slow, basically no highways...

Autel Elite, SnapOn etc. I'm a mechanic.

Finally I replaced a torque arm with an OEM. Now I feel just a little vibration but a brend new OEM tensioner still slightly jumps. Like I said I put a new harmonic balancer and belts. Still no codes(never seen any codes). I tried to spin alternator and AC pulleys by hand, could not feel any problems with bearings...

Mine is AWD and the PTU drain plug installation was my dream(finally done it a month ago). The only thing: how could be V and LV totally incompatible if most of the part stores sell universals ATF and it works??? I am waiting for OEM torque arm, couldn't get one from the dealer but finally I found one on eBay. Mine OEM torque arm's front bushing was torn, that's why vibration appeared(I thought). I got an aftermarket torque arm from eBay and then I found this forum and a post: The OEM mounts are a composite of two different types of rubber with softer inserts.

why everywhere says that V and LV are NOT compatible? And they say DO NOT mix them. Looks like the difference isn't that big according to specs... 3.000 miles ago(the mileage was 115K) I decided to change the fluid, using AllData got confused reading this: " NOTE: Transmission fluid application: - Early build vehicles require MERCON(R) V - Late build vehicles require MERCON(R) LV" IDK why I didn't take a look on the dipstick cap(it says Mercon V) instead of I called the dealer and they told me LV(for my 2009 MKX). I changed fluid 3 times and everything was fine within 3k miles. Than it started: VIBRATION at Stop(traffic) lights. Almost no vibration in Neutral Only. Reading/trying for 2 mounts - still nothing changed. DONE: Harmonic balancer(did not help). Tensioner + belts(same problem). Right engine mount + torque arm(still nothing). Performed transmission line pressure test - got readings ~ 5% lower than AllData says.. Trying to think it's a torque converter? Would it happened because I put LV instead of V? Any ideas? Thanks. PS: new phazers, timing chain, water pump, spark plugs + coils etc was done at the time with tranny's fluid change. NEVER any codes, very gentle driving, full synthetic every 3K miles...