Tim W. AZ

5 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

When you say expelled, did you mean gone, or it dumped out on the ground?

No mention of year or engine, but it sounds like a hose failure that started as a leak.

Or our country.

3 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

I use 303 Protectant on rubber parts exposed to the sun. Use silicone spray on the BAMR moving parts.

Believe 303 is a better product for high sun locations. (Very highly rated.)

 

https://a.co/d/2C32Ku5

I use 303 on my dash and tires, great stuff. The gaskets I lube are under hood, tail gate and doors, so no sun exposure. But it's so dry and hot, it bakes the rubber, so hopefully it helps.

Because I live in the desert, every year I spray all my rubber gaskets with silicon spray and massage it in with a silicon dampened rag. It keeps them supple. I also did it in Minnesota to keep the door from freezing. I also inspect and lube my pano regularly. Don't use WD, it's a petroleum product and breaks down summer and plastic. 

13 minutes ago, Wubster100 said:

 

I have seen the word bezel on the forums, but never took the time to look it up. Now I know.

Well, what do ya know, it works. A lot of info displayed. 

.

1 minute ago, Wubster100 said:

SYNC Bezel Diagnostics?

It was a long time ago, but I don't think it was SYNC related, it just displayed there. I mostly remember it displayed mph, GPS location, longitude/latitude, and one or two other things.

Been searching for a document that described the sequence and finally found it in the cloud. It wasn't my Focus, it was my 2016 C-Max Energi.
With the car off, press the left OK button then with your foot on the brake press start. Hold the OK until ET displays in the top left corner of the left screen. Use the down arrow to cycle through the diagnostic screens. At the fifth screen will be the diagnostic test codes. If there are no codes the screen will be blank. To exit press and hold the left OK button until clear.

As I was typing, I thought the above might be something different, but I was too far in to abandon the effort. I'm going to see if this does anything on my 2020 Edge.

Off topic a little, but on my 2012 Focus, (probably other models too) there was a series of buttons you could sequence to bring up on the SYNC I screen indicating your geographical location, speed and other info. Does anyone know if that's still possible? 

On 2/17/2025 at 7:44 PM, lasseventies said:

i guess I can spray some WD40 inside the air vent towards the seatbelt screws and see what happens

WD-40 is a petroleum based lubricant and over time degrades rubber and plastic. Silicon spray is just as effective and you can revitalize rubber door seals with it. Now days, I only use WD on metal to metal lube.

Not sure how to solve your particular issue, but one time I had a squeak in a door panel and I sprayed silicon in the area and it took care of it. I've only done it once and it worked once, so worth a thought. Good luck.

Not all accidents make it on to the Carfax report. I'd be wary because last time I checked where I live, 2020's are still near 20K depending on mileage and I don't recall seeing one priced this low.

Good luck.

Nice work, looks great.

In AZ the auto start/stop rarely works in summer because of the temps (learned of 140 degree battery temperature from Haz's post) and load demand, so I didn't notice that it wasn't working. As temps cooled (temporarily) and I was running with the windows down in the AM, I finally noticed it wasn't working. Batteries die fast here. You can park the car in the evening and the next morning, the battery is dead as a door nail and unable to take a charge. I decided I needed to be better prepared. I broke down and replaced my 'suck up battery fluid' tester with a decent digital battery tester. It read 60% SOC, Battery Good-Recharge, so I replaced the Craftsman charger I bought in high school 50 years ago with a new microprocessor controlled charger compatible with AWG batteries. I watched a video on charging and learned that if you want the vehicle to immediately recognize the change, don't attach the charger to the post, but connect it past the electronic sensor that sends battery info, on the negative terminal it's the bolt that sticks upward. I had to move the battery forward to get a good grip. It only charged to 80%, but I remember reading some where that that's the max it will charge, but don't remember why. Long story long, it's now working good, even a couple of times with the A/C on. 

My pre-owned 2020 did not have an engine cover and when I inquired at the dealership, I was told that the cover and under hood insulation had been discontinued. My thought was that it was a financial decision by Ford, or it created a potential engine compartment excessive heat issue. 

May I ask why you wish to remove the screen?

What year, what version? My 2020 SYNC 3 rear camera once went blue, but a restart cleared it up. Good luck.

23 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Sadist thing on earth is a hippy using a walker ......  ⚘🌷🌻

I used to be a hippie, now I have bad hips.

I had a Fusion or a Focus that had it and I forget what it was called at the time, but does Ford still have rapid deceleration fuel cut off in their vehicles? 

2 hours ago, lildisco said:

I'd check your Owners Manual & verify. Most of the horror stories are from the previous gens that didn't have 'serviceable' components. I believe that you're stuck with only 1 manufacturer, Motorcraft, that makes the RDU fluid, Motorcraft XY-75W-QL disconnect fluid. 

The PTU has more options available. Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140, aka Smurf Blood, is what I & many others use. Others prefer Amsoil. However, I'm not a Sport/ST so I don't know if they're different or not. 

 

I can tell you that I've changed both twice in 31,000 miles. The first fluid change on both had the most material in the oil. When I did the second time, things were much nicer. Both fluid changes are relatively cheap if you do them by yourself. The Motorcraft RDU fluid is ~$40/qt & Redline Lightweight Shockproof 75W140 is ~$25. Here's my thread on it, but I believe things are going to be slightly different on the ST. 

 

They can't flatly deny a warranty claim if you use Motorcraft fluid. 

3 hours ago, Crashtek said:

2016 Ford Edge Titanium with EPAS. While driving steering wheel will randomly slightly jerk to the right or left after going around any slight curve or bend or after a turn at an intersection. it will jerk to the left after straightening up from a right turn or to the right after straightening up from a left turn or curve. Same with lane changes on the interstate. It is always a single jerk and then returns to straight. And only after a turn. 

 

Wheels and tires are fine. Almost new. Balanced and aligned fine. Absolutely nothing is loose or bent. Wires to rack motor are fine and not stretched or worn. No broken mount bolts. 

 

Pretty sure it's in the EPAS software, sensor system.  

 

Does anyone have any experience with anything similar? 

 

Anyone near Myrtle Beach or Conway, SC area that specializes in this that is recommended to have inspect? 

 

 

Is the lane keeping system activated? When the system detects multiple lane lines or on a curve with multiple exits, it can jerk the steering where it thinks it should go. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened to me.

7 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

I would question adding oil above the max mark. On a 2.0 L, (think you have the 2.0 L) the manual calls for 5.7 quarts. You put in nearly 6 quarts (and that doesn't count what dirty oil was still left in the engine.)

 

Adding too much allows the crankshaft to contact the top of the oil level, causing splashing and foaming. As the oil pickup floats on top of the oil, it draws the foam into the engine, starving the engine for lubrication  it's the top components, the cams and associated parts, that suffer first.

 

Also not a fan of blowing out a dirty air filter. Blowing out a dirty car air filter only removes loose surface debris and will probably damage the filter fibers, making the filter less efficient. It will also leave behind deeply embedded particals.  Compressed air will forces dirt deeper into the filters leaving the filter partially clogged.

 

New filters are cheap insurance.

The 2020 manual specifies 5.5 qts., or 5 qts and 16 ounces, and that takes it slightly above the crosshatching, but well below the max fill level. As I posted earlier, 5 qts and 14 ounces takes it to the top of the crosshatching. The air filter has only 4 months and 4500 miles on it, so it was pretty clean to start with. I don't blow through the filter, I carefully separate the ribs and blow sideways, so I'm not too worried about blowing out the filter and the air box was clean of fine particles. I'm pretty comfortable with my process.

10 hours ago, Wubster100 said:

Is there a magnet on the oil drain plug?

No

Oil and filter change after 4345 mi. with 57% remaining on OLM, blow out air filter, check fluid levels. 5 quarts and 14 ounces fills to the top of the cross hatching and 16 ounces puts it an acceptable amount above.

20 hours ago, STBEAST said:

I agree. But these oil pump belt failures are occurring long after the factory warranty expires. Oil is oil, I get it.  But it's all about the additive packages the individual manufacturers put in the base oil that may be in question. Certain chemicals (additives) may have a long-term acceleration of the belt deterioration. 

Just for thought?

If a failure is ever a warranty issue or a manufacturing or design problem is why I use the manufacturer recommended oil. How long after the warranty expires is the part failing? If it’s at 200,000 miles it probably wasn’t the oil. But if it’s at 65,000 then Ford should be investigating what’s happening.

9 hours ago, garycrist said:

Could it be that Ford builds quiet a few autos and trucks and at 5 or 6 quarts of

oil per build, semi would save them X amount of money.

 

They are for THEIR pocket book not yours.

Just pass it on to the buyer in a “vehicle fluid” charge. Ford doesn’t give away the 2 gallons of gas they put in the vehicle at the factory.

3 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

Motorcraft Blend and Motorcraft Full Synthetic are both good oils and meet Ford's specs, so out of those two which would you say is best?

Definitely the full synthetic. It’s too bad Ford doesn’t make full synthetic standard equipment from the factory.