Tim W. AZ

4 hours ago, enigma-2 said:

Does the IPAD actually charge of a standard USB port? Although the Red requires +5vdc and Black is common, I thought that the IPAD required 2.0 & 2.75 on the D+ & D- pins to initiate charging? 

I misspoke in my op when I stated two usb ports. There is a usb and a 19 pin (?) port in the center console below the climate control. I have a very old iPod plugged into the usb and a less old nano in the 19 pin. It's about 3500 songs. 

5 minutes ago, enigma-2 said:

Like to add that on gen one vehicles, the power points are hot continously when the engine is off. (They never shut off.)

 

Discovered this the hard way when I left a radar detector plugged in over a weekend. 

I had a Focus with SYNC 1 and to say the least, it was buggy.

5 minutes ago, dabangsta said:

The accessory 12v power ports shut down after 75 minutes after delay power is shut off. That can be changed via ForScan to immediately shut off, never shut off, or various times, the different settings can be found in most ForScan spreadsheets for the Fusion or F150 (or edge of course). If they are plugged into the USB ports they are powered down when the delay accessory power is turned off.

I'm using the center console usb ports. I'm assuming they shut down either when the lights go out, or after a few minutes when the ecu sounds like it's clicking off.

This question is as old as SYNC itself, but after checking eight pages of posts and using the above title as search words, I didn't find anything. There are conflicting opinions on the interweb, and most say devices power down and don't drain the battery, but I have two iPods plugged in and want to leave them there, so I'll ask the question, does leaving devices plugged in all the time potentially drain the battery?

PVC Valve hose. Hose vent.

In the right light, I have also noticed the color change, but just thought thats the color when the light hits it a certain way. I've read that the plastic used is called 'molded in color' so it's consistent throughout. Pull the panel off to see what the color is on the backside.

A salvaged seat would be cheaper, but a good upholsterer can probably repair just the collapsed section and reuse the cover. Just a thought.

Copy that. The proverbial unplug it and plug it back in.

1 hour ago, garycrist said:

I had mine glitch too. I did a <Ctrl> <Alt> <Delete> on my Sync.😉

I restarted the ST...

I just went out to check it and it's working. I scanned for updates, but didn't want to do a full reset because of nav favorites, radio stations, etc. Hopefully, it just had to burp and now it's good.

When i placed my car in R today, the SYNC screen went all blue and the rear view camera did not activate. After about 3-5 seconds, a message appeared that read rear view camera currently not available, contact dealership. I toggled between P, D and R a few times with the same blue screen appeared. I did my shopping and when I restarted the car, the system had reset itself and was working as designed. Has anyone else experienced this? Hopefully it was just a hiccup.

And now spent $50,000 plus or minus depending on the car, to buy a car that was originally under $4000.

48 minutes ago, garycrist said:

The funnies things during that time, was run-on. Shut the key off, go inside and eat come back out and the car was still running.

I remember them "chugging" until they finally choked themselves out. Compared to then, there are a lot of repairs and service that I won't/can't do now because of complexity, but cars don't carbon up, run on, crack blocks and throw rods like they used to.

2 minutes ago, dabangsta said:

I don't really like it because in my environment the cabin gets too warm too quickly with the engine off...

I've given this some thought, living where it's 110 many days. I believe that if the ambient temperature is too high and the AC is needed to cool the cabin or the radiator fan is running, those needs will override the stop/start feature. 

The system and components are designed to work without wearing itself out. Yes, it's mechanical and electronic and those things do wear out, but unless there's a flaw in an individual part, it will last as long as needed. Around here, you can sit at a multi intersection light for 2-3 minutes, so if the engine isn't running, I'm not burning fuel.

I was a little disappointed that my 2020 didn't have the dual opening center arm rest like my 2016. 

When I started driving in 71, they used to sell re-refined oil at the Hudson station by my house. My first car after my mom's 68 Bonneville convertible, (the girls loved that car) was a 67 Riviera with a 430cu in and it hauled ass. It did great burnouts and I won a few races in that car. I had a Dynamic 88 and a Datsun 210 wagon that rusted beyond safe and when I drove it to the junk yard, I had to used a metal post to stop. The body slid forward a few inches it was rusted so bad. I bought my brother in laws 78, three on the tree, Maverick and have owned Fords pretty much ever since, other than one Buick. To blow out carbon, we would hit the freeway northbound and run at 100 mph or so. Ah..., the reckless old days.

When I was signing the paperwork, the paper pusher asked me about insurance and said to tell them the car has Lojack. I thought, cool... I guess. I was looking more closely at the paperwork a few days later and noticed that I payed for Lojack, it wasn't included. I got an email to activate and chose not to because I didn't want to have my speed and location monitored. Hopefully, it isn't active until I jump through the hoops. 

The torque is that high because steel (lugs) and aluminum (wheels) don't grip each other because of dissimilar metals.

Resurrecting an old thread. When I took possession of my recent 2020 purchase, on the first day home I checked the spare and it was at 16psi. I had to return to the dealership the next day and mentioned it to my salesman and he said oh, I guess it hasn't been used in a while. Well it's never been used. Filled it to 58 (to account for Phoenix summer heat) checked it today and it's holding firm. I also carry a portable inflator.

2 hours ago, Cerberus said:

regarding concern for the turbo(s) there are a few things you can do to minimize the risk of premature failure.

Never beat on it cold, use the best fully synthetic spec oil (to avoid coking and maximize lubrication film strength),

And utilize safe 'run down' practices.. Particularly if you live somewhere hot..

One more thought, that I'm sure will get push back from some, is to add a lower temperature thermostat.

Thanks for the tips. I use Motorcraft Semi-Syn and change oil at about 6-7K. I take a couple of road trips in spring and summer and typically change after those. I'm retired so I don't drive a lot, but I live in the Phoenix area and do errands early in the day in summer. I will use the run down practice in summer. As far as the thermostat, I've learned the hard way that, if it ain't broke...

1 hour ago, Rchalk said:

New to the forum.  I just bought a 2020 ST, in "Rapid Red" with 28K miles on it ($25,800 - good deal?) which has the 401A package and the Performance Brake/tire package.  When I look at the order list, it says the car should have heated steering wheel, but on the window sticker it does not, and the car does not have this feature.  Can anyone explain?

 

Also would like to know of any recommended maintenance items that might not be clearly covered in the owners manual, and any general suggestions about operating the vehicle.  Thanks everyone - I am looking forward to learning more about this fun car!

 

 

Changing brake fluid at 3 years or 30,000 miles. I was a little surprised when I read that in the maintenance schedule. I checked with the dealership that has serviced the vehicle since new (where I bought it) and the service has not been performed, so I'm taking mine in today at a little over 3 years and 44,000 miles. It would be nice if they didn't charge me since it wasn't done prior to resale on a Gold Certified used car. We'll see.

After reading several battery related topics, I found my old Scan Gage and plugged it in. The last time it was used was in 2012 with my C-Max Energi. Anyway, it indicated I was at 14.6v so I feel good... for now. The AZ desert it tough on batteries.

I'm a little concerned about the turbo when we get to 75K+ miles and I'm willing to have or do any preventive maintenance to extend life. I guess I'll just hang on for the ride until that day possibly arrives. Thanks for your excellent posts.

I dusted it off, cleaned the glass, blew out the engine compartment and applied silicon spray to the rubber door and hood gaskets. I started siliconing the rubber when I lived in Minnesota so the doors wouldn't freeze in winter, now I live in the desert so I do it to keep them from drying out.

Could/should this be a prevention service measure, or only recommended when there's a oil tube or turbo failure?