razziel24

Ok, i finaly had time to take the car to the mechanic. The problem was that electronic valve in the AC compressor. They drained the gas, replaced the valve and filled the system back with gas Valve: $75 Labor: $40 The AC is working perfectly now.

Ive seen some FMIC vendors claiming up to 40 degrees air temp reduction with their products. As far as I know... A 40-degree drop could theoretically provide a 3–4% bump in raw potential power just from the air density alone. Also when intake air is hot, the risk of pre-ignition increases significantly. To prevent the engine from destroying itself, the ECU will retard the ignition timing. By dropping the temp by 40 degrees, the engine can run more aggressive timing, which is where the most significant felt horsepower gains come from. A few years ago I had a 2010 335i, and just by upgrading the FMIC without any ECU tuning, my "butt dino" felt gains of 15 to 20 hp. So thats why I want to know, how this FMIC is performing on the ST, but I guess the OP is not reading this anymore I would be great to have his feedback.

and this is what "Gemini AI" told me about it... Since your 2019 Ford Edge ST uses a variable displacement compressor, it doesn't rely on a traditional "on/off" clutch for every cycle. Instead, it uses an Electronic Control Valve (ECV) to regulate how much refrigerant is being pumped. When this valve fails, the symptoms are often more subtle than a total system breakdown. Here is what to look for: 1. The "Delayed Cooling" Effect The most common symptom is that the AC blows warm air for the first 5–10 minutes of driving, and then suddenly begins to blow ice-cold. This happens because the valve is sticking and requires enough vibration or pressure buildup to finally "pop" into the correct position. 2. Inconsistent Temperatures You might notice the air getting warmer when you are idling at a stoplight, then getting cold again once you start moving or increase the engine RPM. A failing valve struggles to maintain the correct displacement when the engine speed changes. 3. "Laggy" Response to Controls If you turn the AC to "MAX" and nothing happens for a significant amount of time—even though you can see the compressor hub spinning—the valve is likely failing to adjust the internal swashplate to increase the stroke of the pistons. 4. Normal Pressures, No Cold Air If a mechanic hooks up gauges and sees that the Static Pressure is fine (meaning you have enough R-1234yf refrigerant), but the High Side doesn't go up and the Low Side doesn't go down when the AC is turned on, it usually points directly to the valve rather than a leak. 5. Rattling or Clicking Noises Because the valve controls the internal "tilt" (swashplate) of the compressor, a failing valve can cause the internal components to sit at an awkward angle, leading to a faint metallic rattling or rhythmic clicking coming from the compressor area. Pro-Tip for the Edge ST Because the Edge ST's engine bay gets very hot, these electronic solenoids are prone to heat-soak failure. The "Cheap" Fix: Many shops will tell you that you need a brand-new compressor ($800+). However, on many Ford compressors, the ECV is a replaceable part that costs around $40–$60. The Catch: You still have to evacuate the refrigerant to change the valve, so it's a job for a shop with a recovery machine.

He mentioned an electronic "compressor valve", and told me that the simptoms related to its failure, are similar to the ones I was describing. It was just a casual conversation, he hasnt seen the car yet, but I wanted to check if this was a common failure. Doing some online research i found this...

Thank you for your answer. It seems like they are working properly For example, when i pick up my child from school, i sometimes wait 25 minutes with the car idling and AC on, and it keeps working fine.

bump any installation pics or performance gains update ? thanks

anyone ?

Hello, i have a 2019 ST with 72k miles. A month ago I started feeling like the AC wasnt blowing cold air, sometimes air temperature would vary depending on the car speed or rpm. I noticed that when I turn the car on, the air would not come out cold with the car standing still, but I have to drive it in the highway to start feeling like the A/C is really doing its job and cooling the air. It turns really bad in traffic or in rainy days, I heard from some mechanic that there is an electronic valve in the compressor that fails, and when it happens, the A/C behaves like i mentioned. Any of you had this issue ?

I did this a year ago on my ST, no auto start stop anymore, and noother issues whatsoever.

Yes, i saw a youtube video about that oil supply line for the drivers side turbo on 2.7TT engines... The weird thing is that I see no smoke coming out the exhaust, nor oil marks in the garage floor... Im planing to get the gasket for the valve cover and maybe that oil supply line....

Hello there. Did anyone diagnosed and corrected this issue ? Im having the same problem on my 2019 ST No oil marks in the garage floor, no blue smoke, no visible oil leaks in the engine... Just one weird finding... the sparkplugs for the visible bank (the ones i could check) have oil in the outside, i removed them and the inside is fine, no oil inside the chamber. Could this be a valve cover gasket issue ? pcv ? any help would be gladly appreciated. thanks

thanks for your reply, yes I checked with Ford OEM parts using my vin, and it says its compatible with all revisions, but I couldnt manage to find the detailed info regarding the changes made to each revision

Hello, I need to replace both control arms for my 2019 Edge ST, and I came across some vendors online offering the part number but with different revisions: (at different prices) F2GZ-3078-A, (n/a) F2GZ-3078-B, (n/a) F2GZ-3078-C, ($226) F2GZ-3078-H, ($198) F2GZ-3078-K ($253) According to Gemini: Here's a breakdown: F2GZ-3078-K is generally the latest or current part number that supersedes the others. . The suffixes (A, B, C, H, K) indicate engineering revisions or updates to the part. When a manufacturer makes a minor change or improvement to a component, they often issue a new part number with a different suffix. These changes can be: Material improvements: A stronger or lighter material might be used. Design tweaks: Minor changes to the shape or dimensions for better fitment, durability, or performance. Manufacturing process changes: Updates to how the part is produced. Supplier changes: A new supplier might necessitate a slight change in the part number. Inclusion of components: Sometimes a new part number might indicate that additional small components (like a specific bolt or bushing) are now included with the main assembly. Without access to Ford's internal engineering change notices or technical service bulletins specifically detailing each incremental change, it's impossible to pinpoint the exact differences (e.g., "in 'H' we increased the bushing durometer by X%, and in 'K' we added a different coating to the ball joint pin"). Does anyone know the specific details of the changes Ford made to this revisions ? Would it be wise to buy the rev H, taking in consideration the price difference ? Thank you

Just cleaned the inside using water and alcohol, then I sprayed it with high temp black paint. (I had a leftover can that i used to repaint my bbq, lol)

I'm using 285/45 R20 According to Tire Calculator, they are 1.53% bigger than the original 245/50 R20 (This is within acceptable variance, according to the app) Original tire circumference: 93.13in Current Tire circumference: 94.56in Do you think that could be the problem ? Im currently looking to replace shocks and bump stops... any aftermarket good option at a reasonable price ?