Zazzy Posted February 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 (edited) If the coolant was in bad shape and a proper flush wasn't done, it's possible that the new heater core is clogged. A reverse flush might fix it. The problem is that the passages in the heater core are very small. If there is junk in the engine coolant, it will make it's way to the heater core, which will act just like a filter. Regarding the blend door actuators, you can watch if if they're working or not. Two of the four only direct air flow. The other two regulate temperature. One is on the left side just above the gas pedal and to the right. Just look for the green electrical connector. Nearby will be the arms, which are white plastic. The other one is on the opposite side. It's easy to see if you remove the glove compartment. It's to the left of the left side of the glove compartment. While you're there, replace the cabin filter. Also, you can see if the recirc air actuator is working. The fourth is up high (on the left side) and if you can direct air (floor, vent, defrost), it's working so you don't need to see if it works or not. I think they're all in my pictures (look for the green connectors). It's a difficult reach but you can grab onto the heater hoses. Remove the engine cover and slide your arm all the way back. It's a tight squeeze but you can actually reach back there. If the engine is warmed up, and one hose is hot and the other isn't, there is no flow, or limited flow, thru the heater core. You don't need to do this while the engine is running. When's the last time you replaced the thermostat? It's different than the old school thermostats that only limited flow to the radiator. It has a secondary spring. I don't know how it works but it's referenced as an item to check or replace if there's lack of heat from the heater core. Also, check the fuses. I think there are two or three related to the HVAC system. The owner's manual lists which ones they are. I'd tell you but my Ford Service Manual DVD is on a different computer and I'm not near it. Edited February 26, 2015 by Zazzy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 26, 2015 Report Share Posted April 26, 2015 Zazzy my husband and I are doing ours now and he's pretty much given up. I'm looking at the pictures you have taken and you did have to remove to steering wheel or can we just work around it? We purchased the our vehicle after the warranty expired and we were not aware of the issue so we're trying our best to work with what we got. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 (edited) Zazzy my husband and I are doing ours now and he's pretty much given up. I'm looking at the pictures you have taken and you did have to remove to steering wheel or can we just work around it? We purchased the our vehicle after the warranty expired and we were not aware of the issue so we're trying our best to work with what we got. Thanks! The steering wheel is very easy to remove. After the trim is removed and the electrical connections are unplugged, it's just 5 bolts. Four bolts connect it to the dashboard. The other one is at the floorboard behind a piece of plastic trim. If I didn't address it above, after you unbolt the shaft, slide it up and tape it up so it won't slide out. It's telescoping and you don't want the shaft to slide out. Just keep it together. Also, I'll post all the PDFs that I used to do the work. Edited April 27, 2015 by Zazzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Here's the first batch. Climate Control System — General Information and Diagnostics.pdf Steering Column.pdf Selector Lever.pdf Shifter - Selector Lever Cable.pdf Interior Trim — Exploded View.pdf Seat — Front.pdf Cowl Panel Grille.pdf A-Pillar Trim Panel.pdf Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Depowering and Repowering.pdf Console — Floor.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Here's the next batch. One of the items in the instructions mentioned disconnecting an electrical connection near the cowl. It's wrong. It's near the fuse panel. Also, it's easier to remove the driver's door, which is just 5 bolts. No instructions needed. Just support it before you unbolt it. Power Point.pdf Instrument Panel.pdf Instrument Cluster Finish Panel.pdf Instrument Panel Center Finish Panel.pdf Instrument Panel — Exploded View.pdf Heater Core And Evaporator Core Housing.pdf Heater Core.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 Thanks you so much I will show this to him! I know it's getting warm I just can't wait to havE a working heater in my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 27, 2015 Report Share Posted April 27, 2015 this is where we are at. Do we have to remove the bar or is there anyway around it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) Well...umm... It must come out because the heater core housing is behind it. But, you made it easier to remove the dashboard support bar because you removed a lot of items that didn't need to be removed. No big deal. You can reattach all that stuff after you remove the dash support or after you put it back in. Typically, this photo of the dashboard comes out in one unit. With the driver's seat out, you walk the entire dash out of the car. In a way, you made it easier to remove the bar. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/uploads/monthly_01_2015/post-31797-0-40261400-1422333229.jpg Edited April 28, 2015 by Zazzy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 We're trying to take the heater core pit of its housing but can't get the blower motor out of the way. We've taken out all the skews but nothing any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 Finally got it! Now time to put it all back together and hope it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted April 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 While you're installing the dashboard support, double check that you have access to all the harnesses. They'll hang down into the wrong spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted April 29, 2015 Report Share Posted April 29, 2015 Thanks zazzy! We finally got it together and running! Now just gotta make sure the heat works and we'll be good to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted May 3, 2015 Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 So now that we have the heater fixed my ac doesn't work ugh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted May 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2015 So now that we have the heater fixed my ac doesn't work ugh! What about it doesn't work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted May 4, 2015 Report Share Posted May 4, 2015 I just blows out hot air, took it to get the diagnostics on it and they said it was electrical so now gotta go back in and look and the wires again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted May 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 When you were recharging the AC, did the compressor come on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted May 5, 2015 Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 I believe so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted May 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2015 (edited) Did you check operation of the blend doors? Also, how many ounces of refrigerant was added? If you removed the heater core housing, the ac was disconnected. The amount of refrigerant needed for a full charge is on top of the radiator fan housing. Edited May 5, 2015 by Zazzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyons09 Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yes we checked the blend doors I'm not sure how many ounces my husband put in. Its weird it comes on but it comes on only when it wants too and only slightly cool,and it seems the car has to be running for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Here's a follow that some might find interesting. I installed new radiator hoses at the time I did the heater core replacement. I also installed an inline filter on one of the radiator hoses. Today I inspected the filter and there was junk in it. It wasn't horrible but enough to make me glad that I installed the filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Ok, now that worries me! You think even the new core has issues? That would be a bummer ... What inline filter did you use btw? I have seen filters for the power steering but not for coolant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zazzy Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 (edited) I wouldn't worry. This is the typical stuff that ends up circulating in the cooling system. The filter I used is a Tefba coolant filter. There a photo of it in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/19167-tss-oss-sensor-change-pcu/ Edited March 24, 2016 by Zazzy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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