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HID Problems.....


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Hey guys,

 

I've done alot of reading on here before I decided to get some HID's. With that, I now have a few problems. I got a kit from Velocitygetters.com here in Canada and a Relay kit from JG of DirectJG (thanks JG!). Here's the problem....

 

With the HID's and kit hooked up

 

at night I get:

 

1. One light come on, I then have to turn the lights off, wait, then back on to get both.

 

During Daylight (DRL and auto lights)

 

1. One light come on, cant get other on, Plus the drivers one that comes flickers the whole time until I turn the lights on, but again only 1 light.

 

I checked some stuff today and found a bad ballast. (company sending me a new one)

 

So, Im thinking, even with a bad ballast, the relay kit and the good light should still not flicker right??? It almost seems like it acts as if there is no relay.

 

Any help would be great, thanks guys!

Edited by ca412686
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Hey guys,

 

I've done alot of reading on here before I decided to get some HID's. With that, I now have a few problems. I got a kit from Velocitygetters.com here in Canada and a Relay kit from JG of DirectJG (thanks JG!). Here's the problem....

 

With the HID's and kit hooked up

 

at night I get:

 

1. One light come on, I then have to turn the lights off, wait, then back on to get both.

 

During Daylight (DRL and auto lights)

 

1. One light come on, cant get other on, Plus the drivers one that comes flickers the whole time until I turn the lights on, but again only 1 light.

 

I checked some stuff today and found a bad ballast. (company sending me a new one)

 

So, Im thinking, even with a bad ballast, the relay kit and the good light should still not flicker right??? It almost seems like it acts as if there is no relay.

 

Any help would be great, thanks guys!

 

 

Had the same problem. Here is your fix. This is a copy from the PM about it in here from back in Feb.

 

now for the capacitor fix.

 

The instructions from Chad's vendor says to use a 470uf 35v Electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the relay. I used a 1500uf 35v and it works just fine for this application. The main part is to at least use a 25v cap and above 470uf, so if you used a 680, 1000 or a 1500 you should be fine. The reason is the Edge lights are a pulsed 12v and by not using a cap the relay will sound like an electric razor because it switches so fast, but by using the cap you are basically adding a small battery on the line to keep the voltage at 12v long enough for the next pulse from the junction box to keep the relay switched on. The 1500uf holds a charge just a fraction of a second longer than the 470uf is the only difference.

Edited by jpeckinp
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Had the same problem. Here is your fix.

 

now for the capacitor fix.

 

The instructions from Chad's vendor says to use a 470uf 35v Electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the relay. I used a 1500uf 35v and it works just fine for this application. The main part is to at least use a 25v cap and above 470uf, so if you used a 680, 1000 or a 1500 you should be fine. The reason is the Edge lights are a pulsed 12v and by not using a cap the relay will sound like an electric razor because it switches so fast, but by using the cap you are basically adding a small battery on the line to keep the voltage at 12v long enough for the next pulse from the junction box to keep the relay switched on. The 1500uf holds a charge just a fraction of a second longer than the 470uf is the only difference.

Awesome, thanks alot for the reply! I'll give it a shot when my new ballast comes in and I'll let you know.

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Worked! Thanks

OK, sort of worked....The only problem I'm having now is at night if I unlock the vehicle, the security lights and headlights come on no problem. BUT the passenger one seems to light up slower, so if i jump right in and start the passenger wont come on because of the draw from the start. If i wait a little bit before I start, the lights come on no problem. Im wondering if I have the cap in the right spot now??? Anyone know exactly which tabs on the relay I should connect the cap to? The relay has 30, 85, 86, 87. To me, it seems the passenger light isn't getting the power that is needed to keep it from flickering during the start and therefore not lighting up.

 

 

 

ps. waiting the little bit to start wouldn't be that bad, but the HID's didn't go over that well with the wife.....especially now that they aren't working right!

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OK, sort of worked....The only problem I'm having now is at night if I unlock the vehicle, the security lights and headlights come on no problem. BUT the passenger one seems to light up slower, so if i jump right in and start the passenger wont come on because of the draw from the start. If i wait a little bit before I start, the lights come on no problem. Im wondering if I have the cap in the right spot now??? Anyone know exactly which tabs on the relay I should connect the cap to? The relay has 30, 85, 86, 87. To me, it seems the passenger light isn't getting the power that is needed to keep it from flickering during the start and therefore not lighting up.

 

 

 

ps. waiting the little bit to start wouldn't be that bad, but the HID's didn't go over that well with the wife.....especially now that they aren't working right!

Well I tried making two relays, so that both lights were getting power the same time....Didnt work, again. I took the HID's out for now and put in regular bulbs. When I started it, I noticed the passenger light does go dimmer than the drivers side. Im guessing thats just the way it works. Anyways, if anyone ever comes up with something that would work, let me know.

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Alrighty then.....FINALLY, with the help of the guys here, I got it working. Basically, the wiring harness I had installed powered the driver side ballast first, therefore giving me the passenger side problem. I ended up making 2 relay harness'. That didn't work so I cursed, swore and threw shit all over the garage and pulled everything out. Then about a hour after it occurred to me, make my own harness going to the passenger side then drivers side. That's what I did and now everything works perfectly! I also had to use the cap like I was doing before. Without the cap, the relay itself was flickering like crazy which was flicking the HID's. So, again, thanks to all who helped with everything!

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Alrighty then.....FINALLY, with the help of the guys here, I got it working. Basically, the wiring harness I had installed powered the driver side ballast first, therefore giving me the passenger side problem. I ended up making 2 relay harness'. That didn't work so I cursed, swore and threw shit all over the garage and pulled everything out. Then about a hour after it occurred to me, make my own harness going to the passenger side then drivers side. That's what I did and now everything works perfectly! I also had to use the cap like I was doing before. Without the cap, the relay itself was flickering like crazy which was flicking the HID's. So, again, thanks to all who helped with everything!

 

Can you tell me what i need to buy and where to get it to make mine work "the right way". Does everything work right with the auto on/off feature? Thanks.

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Can you tell me what i need to buy and where to get it to make mine work "the right way". Does everything work right with the auto on/off feature? Thanks.

Hey, Mine does work with the auto lights and DRL's. Basically I got a wiring harness from Direct JG and a 1000uf 35v Electrolytic capacitor (most electronics stores will have them). I ended up having to take the harness apart and add more wire to the power wire then wire it directly to the passenger light first. Then put the cap in like the picture and it works perfect. With the harness wired to the drivers side, it didnt work all the time. You can read my posts above to see what it was doing. if you need any other help or explanations, let me know. DirectJG was a great help along with jpeckinp!

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Hey, Mine does work with the auto harness from Direct JG and a 1000uf 35v Electrolytic capacitor (most electronics stores will have them). I ended up having to take the harness apart and add more wire to the power wire then wire it directly to the passenger light first. Then put the cap in like the picture and it works perfect. With the harness wired to the drivers side, it didnt work all the time. You can read my posts above to see what it was doing. if you need any other help or explanations, let me know. DirectJG was a great help along with jpeckinp!

can you tell me the exact items to purchase? It looked like there were only kits at directjg

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Going off the title of this thread...I have a different HID Problem:

 

My radio reception goes to sh!t when I have my HID's on.......when I turn them off, the reception comes back to normal.

 

Any ideas on how to fix it or whats causing this???

 

thanks

Could be 2 problems.

1. You do not have a digital ballast. Not having digital will make the buzzing sound in the radio

 

or

 

2. If you have DRL's, they are flickering because you dont have a cap installed. (which is what I had)

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Going off the title of this thread...I have a different HID Problem:

 

My radio reception goes to sh!t when I have my HID's on.......when I turn them off, the reception comes back to normal.

 

Any ideas on how to fix it or whats causing this???

 

thanks

 

Is it Satellite, HD or Regular radio stations?

 

Analog kits cause static. I'm about 80% sure that is the problem. How old are your HIDS?

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its on regular radio stations......i didnt know there was a difference in HID ballast...ie: digital, analog

 

 

Yes; all ballasts have some electrical interference. The key is how well the manufacturer ensures that these electrical interferences don't "leak out". This is done through efficient electrical parts and proper grounding.

 

I have HIDS in both low beam and fogs and I don't have any issues whatsoever. No static, flickering.. nothing. I know for a fact my ballasts are digital and made in 2008.

 

dsc04364gv0.jpg

 

ballastlocation5hx8.jpg

 

edge26tc0.jpg

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