Brian K

In my manual somewhere (I think it was a Shop Manual) , Ford recommended that 3 Drain & Fills be performed and that qualifies are a Tranny oil change. So lets see - 1st D&F - results in 50% new & 50% old fluid. (assuming that a drain gets 50% of the fluid out) 2nd D&F- results in 75% new & 25% old 3rd D&F - results in 87.5% new & 12.5% old Seems reasonable I guess - better than not doing it but it sure would be nice to have all the old sh!t out! I never did change the filter because of the difficulty - no bottom removable drain pan but seemed to required disconnecting some electrical stuff etc. Silly to have this sort of design (or maybe I got it wrong).

I have an 08 Lincoln (an Edge with lipstick) and wouldn't buy another. In no particular order of what I don't like... 1) I find the seats uncomfortable and have caused severe back issues on 2 occasions. 2) I dislike the headrest angle compared to my other vehicle a GMC Envoy. It feels like its angles too far forward and on long trips my neck hurts. 3) The heated seats automagically switch off after 15 minutes. I like my butt warm and I'll decide when to shut the heat off. Took it to the dealer and they say they can't change the Auto Off option. 4)) I dislike the way addresses are entered into the Nav unit - but now I use my phone. Voice commands never did work and Ford admit their arrangement with Microsoft for that bit of software was lacking and have apparently moved to Blackberry. (I miss my BB). 4) The NAV maps are not being updated anymore. I have the 13P version from a few years ago but they are out of date. So Google maps are it generally now. 5) I also don't like that they never did address the PTU issue. (I drilled a hole and do regular PTU oil changes.) 6) I've had tranny shifting issues. 7) That 'courtesy wipe" that the wipers do (1 more wipe) after you shut them off. That screws up the timing of spray and wipe to clean the windshield. So No - I wouldn't buy another Edge although I do like the look and the size (and perhaps any other Fords too) because of other issues I've had with a Mustang that Ford Service advisors just laugh at - like the 2 piece spark plug's that can break off in the head when removed - $1000 to fix if they all break!!! And the aluminum hoods that corrode on the front lip because of a manufacturing problem - but it doesn't perf in the warranty period so they don't address it. Their soluton is to paint the hood but that doesn't stop the initial cause of the corrosion so it continues.

I never did replace the vent because I couldn't get the old one out. You could try going to a tranny shop and ask them to save you a failed PTU and see what that one looks like and perhaps you can make something work or clean your old vent.

Mine doesn't a vent line as some newer ones do but has what I call a 'jiggly valve' on top of the PTU - similar to what I have on my GMC Envoy rear axle to vent the pressure. It is a little 1/2" thing (for lack of a better word sorry) that screws into the PTU. Installed in the vehicle, you can feel it if you reach up around the top of the PTU. I couldn't take mine out and really couldn't see it. If the goo in the PTU is puking out that vent, then replacing the oil in the PTU a number of times, might help your situation. Mine looks something like this: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-OEM-NISSAN-REAR-AXLE-REPLACEMENT-BREATHER-TUBE/282540044556?hash=item41c8b2f10c:g:3XEAAOxyLchRr7HE&vxp=mtr

I drilled a hole in the bottom of the PTU and did a drain and fill about 6 times (drain/fill/drive a bit) to flush the old black sludge out. Once I used transmission fluid as a solvent. Still getting some sludge out but it is becoming less and less. Now I only use the 75W140 and each time I filled it to the fill hole level. Now the fluid is staying cleaner. Mine was also quite low when I first stated this but am confident that filling it to the bottom of the fill hole is the right thing to do. I don't have any leaks or any puking out the vent either. I also got a used PTU from a tranny shop just so I could take it apart to see what is inside - just gears and LOTS of sludge. I change my PTU oil (myself) every 2nd engine oil change. Initially before I put in the drain, I tried sucking out the old fluid but had a really hard time getting the sucker hose far enough inside the PTU fill hole. Even sucking a bit out and topping it up with clean oil has to be better than just leaving the old black sludge in it. I always remember that it's cheaper to change oil than parts!

Hi Steve Did you do it yet? We're waiting! lol

Those parts should work. You need to also get a quart of intestinal fortitude as well to drill that pilot hole! Once that is done, you're committed and it will get done! Hopefully you'll document your project and show us pic's!

Hi Steve I know what you mean about getting the right parts. What I did was go to an autoparts place and told them what I wanted to do and got all the parts there so all would fit together - basically 3 things - a tap, drill bit and a plug. The hole size is 1/4" NPT. If you buy the tap that size, the tap package will tell you (probably) what size drill bit to use - or the parts guy should be able help. Get a small bit to start the hole (say 1/8") because it is easier to drill a pilot hole first. By the way, NPT is National Pipe Thread and it is used because it is tapered and when you thread the plug in, it will eventually tighten up and seal - not like a nut and bolt type of thread. When tapping the hole, don't 'tap too far into the PTU - just enough to get some good threads but not so far as to hit anything inside the PTU. When drilling the pilot hole, be really careful that you don't 'wiggle' the bit and break it off - just take it easy with the hole drilling. Good luck.

Here is a picture with a plug in the drain.

Here is a picture of the drain hole. Hopefully this might help others in locating where to drill the hole.

Here is a picture of the extension I added to the OEM heat shield.

Hey Steve - Why not DIY! I put in a drain hole myself by following pictures/recommendations in various PTU posts. There is one post/picture showing dimensions from various PTU landmarks. I started by using a small drill bit and allowing all the oil to drain out once it went through. I drilled slowly so the bit wouldn't penetrate too far into the PTU. You can tell when you're through because oil starts to come out - which helps clean the area of any debris from drilling. Then once drained, I used a larger bit (sized for a 1/4" pipe thread Tap - it's tapered so the plug fits tight) and drilled slowly. Once through, I used a bent Q-tip to clean the inside area of any loose aluminum filings that may have been deposited there from drilling. Then I tapped the hole and again cleaned the inside very carefully with a bent Q-tip until I was satisfied that it was free of aluminum cuttings from the drilling and tapping. Then I installed the plug, and filled drove and drained number of times to clean the sludge out. If you are at all handy it's not hard - just takes some intestinal fortitude to drill the first hole LOL.

PerfA - I can't say whether or not the extra shield has made a difference because now since I put in the drain, I change the oil regularly - every 2nd engine oil change. It is still coming out dirty but I think this is because it is still cleaning the sludge out that is in pockets in the PTU. No failure yet so changing the oil seems to be helping. I added the extra shield because of what others said about cooking the oil due to heat and of course I prefer to change oil than parts. I suppose a high temperature oil would help longevity considering the oil seems to turn to goo and that seems to be a result of overheating the oil beyond its temperature spec. Couldn't hurt.

I also installed a heat shield made from a piece of tin and mounted it between the exhaust and the PTU - basically a larger shield than the OEM one. From many previous posts, the consensus was that the reason these things fail is from extended heat soakings from the exhaust which is very close by thereby cooking the oil and causing it to get thicker and thicker and not providing any lube to the bearings. After a while, it starts to puke from the vent and oil on the garage floor is the first sign most people get that the PTU has a problem. By then it is too late. The PTU is just an expensive gearbox which really should last forever - but not with gooey oil that has boiled off. Poor lube and it doesn't have a chance. I generally change the oil every 8000 miles and all has been good - so far and that was 4 years ago. Perhaps too frequent (?). I drilled a drain hole and threaded it. Initially I tried to suck it out from the fill hole but there was interference in getting the little sucker tube in and i didn't get much out. I somewhat doubt that a shop could do much better sucking it out. A drain is the way to go because you get to flush the crap out. I have been using Castrol 75W140. Yes the other more expensive oils would probably be marginally better, but I prefer more frequent changes. A friend says "You have to change oil or change parts - and oil is much cheaper". Good advice.

If they acknowledged the problem, they might have to come up with a solution! And then all those with failed PTU's would want Ford to replace them for free! Accountants would poo-poo that - so history repeats itself - don't correct or acknowledge the problem. Same as the aluminum hood corrosion issue on Mustangs. No problem (to Ford) because it isn't perforation in the warranty period. I wonder how the aluminum F150's will hold up. Will history be repeating itself again maybe???? Is that deja deja vu?