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CanuckG35

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Everything posted by CanuckG35

  1. I used 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover for my detailing business. There hasn't been anything yet that it couldn't remove. Spray it on, let it set for a couple of minutes and agitate very gently. http://www.303products.com/shop303/index.cfm/category/68/303-cleaner-and-spot-remover.cfm
  2. The vast majority come from poor washing/drying habits.
  3. I think you might be a little confused. Claying and polishing with a DA buffer are two completely different things. Claying is ALWAYS done by hand and is for removing bonded contaminants from your paint surface. Polishing (either by hand or DA polisher) is done to remove various paint imperfections (ie, swirl marks, micro marring, etching, etc) by removing a very thin layer of clear coat. So claying will not replace the need for polishing. In fact, clay bar causes micro marring and it's always best to follow up with polishing to remove the paint imperfections left behind by the clay bar.
  4. Nice, they look really good. Yup, I'm on s2ki as well, however I haven't been on there in awhile. Active on way too many forums I guess. Any other pics of your S2K?
  5. They are very solid cars. If you get one make sure you get an 07+ for a Sedan or an 08+ for a Coupe as both of them have the VQ35HR engine. Of course the VQ37HR is even better if you want to go newer. Nothing wrong with getting a Vette either. If you have any questions on the G just let me know. I'm an Administrator over on g35driver.com as well
  6. Love it. It's a very competent sports sedan and is a lot of fun to drive also..........just in a very different way than the S2000.
  7. I LOVE mine as well. These cars are such a blast to drive, aren't they? Did you get your AP2 wheels chromed? Here's a pic of my baby.
  8. ^ Awesome! Too bad that you forgot your mem card and couldn't take pics! I'm not sure about you, but I find a day of detailing very gratifying. A couple of beers and a good cigar really helps too!
  9. Hey Sac, just put 1 oz of your CG detergent in the detergent section of your washer and you are good to go. If you have a large load of MF towels (which you probably won't have) use 2 oz of your CG detergent. Use warm/hot water and make sure you don't use a fabric softener.
  10. Optimum No Rinse is a rinseless car wash product. It's perfect for those that live in apartments without access to a hose, wintertime washing, etc. You typically mix 1 oz into 1-2 oz of water in a bucket when washing your vehicle. It can also be used as a clay bar lubricant or as a quick detailer (1 oz ONR with 16 oz of water). It's definitely one of my favourite detailing products!! Optimum Opti-Clean is a waterless wash product and is typically used to remove light dirt, dust, pollen, bird bombs, etc from your paint. It's a great quick detailer and has the necessary lubricants in it so that it will not harm your paint surface. My vehicles always have a waterless wash product and a couple of MF towels in the trunk.
  11. That's awesome Sac! What did you end up purchasing from DI? Btw, George whom is the owner of DI, is absolutely fantastic to deal with. I used to get all of my supplies from him until he stopped shipping to Canada.
  12. Umm, well of course it's not going to flake off if you touch it. But today's paints are MUCH softer today than they were one decade ago, two decades ago, etc. Today's softer paints mean that it's MUCH easier to incur rock chips. That's why so many car owners get a clear bra installed on their vehicle.
  13. Actually, today's paint is rather fragile as they are all water based now due to environmental reasons. Water based paints are very much softer than the old oil based paints and are way more susceptible to rock chips.
  14. They actually age quite well when taken care of properly. They are a real life saver for your paint to guard against rock chips. I probably wouldn't get one if I leased the vehicle, but if you plan on keeping your vehicle for a some time, I would highly recommend one.
  15. Sac, I would definitely recommend getting a clear bra applied as they can be a real paint saver. Definitely get it done by a professional installer. Also, Xpel makes a great film cleaner that will prevent it from yellowing over time. Personally, I think getting the entire vehicle clear bra'd is a little overkill and very expensive. Most people just get the front bumper, hood, and mirrors done to protect against rock chips. IMHO, that's all that's really need and you'll save yourself a ton of money. After you get it installed, let it cure for at least 3 days and then you can apply your favourite wax or sealant over top. Cheers, Shane
  16. You're very welcome! Any other questions just let me know. Cheers, Shane
  17. ^ Yep, that bad boy is definitely etched into your paint. Unfortunately it's rather common when left on your paint for too long. Adam, if you are able to pick up an OTC product like ScratchX you should be able to remove it. Btw, did you have any paint protection applied?
  18. Lots of great questions. If I miss anything just let me know. The reason why some of us do not let the dealership do their new car prep is because typically the person at the dealership doing the new car prep doesn't really know how to properly prep a vehicle and ends up doing more harm than good. I've had customers bring me their brand new vehicle after their dealer prepped it and the paint condition was horrible. Not saying that it's always the case with every dealership, but just a heads up nonetheless. A mild claybar is typically used during a new car prep to remove all bonded surface contaminents from your paint that incurred during transit. Rail dust is a big culprit. When using a clay bar like Clay Magic's fine grade (and a good lubricant), you will have no issues doing any damage to your paint. Please keep in mind though that clay barring a new vehicle, while always recommended by detailers like myself, is not really something the average person needs to worry about. I don't want to discourage you from not doing it as I will always recommend it, but the majority of folks probably won't see a difference. Regarding the use of Power Lock, it's as easy as it comes. Apply very thin layers of it, let it dry, and it wipes off like you were buffing air. One of the easiest products I've ever used. Regarding Opti-coat, I'll let richy answer that one as he as experience with it. Waxing after sealing is not important at all. Basically the only reason why some of us apply a carnuba wax over a sealant is for the added depth and gloss. Sealants are man made, and while they look very good, they do not provide the same depth and gloss to your paint that a natural carnuba does. So when people apply both a sealant and a carnuba, they getting the durability of a sealant and also the gloss of a carnuba. Having said that, the vast majority will love the look of a sealant just fine. Any other questions, just let me know.
  19. On a side note, I am going on vacation to Europe until the end of October and will not be around to answer any questions during that time. Richy has got you folks covered though. Cheers, Shane
  20. I couldn't possibly recommend Optimum No Rinse enough. It's a rinseless car wash product and is PERFECT for washing your vehicle in the winter months. If you have heavy salt and sand build up, take it to your local coin op and simply spray down your vehicle. Bring it home and wash it with ONR. It's a very safe way to keep your vehicle clean during the winter. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-744800996428313622
  21. Rich, would love to have a phone conversation. I leave for Europe for a month on Sunday so if you have time to chat before then that would be great. I'll PM you for your phone number. Cheers, Shane
  22. Good to know Richy. I haven't used the DG Aquawax, however my comment was based solely on actual waxes. It''s kinda like Zaino calling their Z2/Z5 products polishes when then are simply sealants. Sigh. Btw, what are your thoughts on the Aquawax? EDIT: I just read your thoughts on the Aquawax.
  23. Yes it will. Sealants will not bond to carnubas, but carnubas will bond to sealants. If using Zaino Z2, you won't need to apply that anymore than 2 times a year.....3 at the extreme most to your Edge. So the couple of times a year that you do apply your Z2, simply wash your car with Dawn to strip off all remaining wax and then reapply your Z2. Let it cure for 24 hours and then you are ready to apply your carnuba of choice over top.
  24. The only decent QDs that I've seen over the counter is Megs. Virtually all of the top detailing brands aren't available over the counter. There are basically two different types of QDs, and you should know which type you are buying. There are QDs that are meant to be used on a clean paint surface (ie,Zaino Z6) and there are QDs that can be used on a lightly dirty paint surface (ie, Poorboys Spray & Wipe). QDs are not all created equal, however in general they can elevate the shine of your paint, reduce the amount of dust, pollen, etc that sticks to your paint, allows you to remove smudges, fingerprints, etc as well. And most importantly, they extend the life of whatever paint protection you are using. If you are using a QD like Poorboys S&W, it will allow you to remove light dirt, dust, pollen, bird bombs, etc. This type of QD can be used safely on a lightly dirty paint surface because it has lubricants in it that prevent you from scratching your paint surface. They drastically reduce the number of times you need to wash your car as you can perform quick and easy maintenance in between full washes. My favourite two QDs are Poorboys S&W and Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer. If you are looking for a spray carnuba to be layered over your Z2, definitely take a look at Optimum Car Wax.
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