mobrien118

It turns out the half shaft had "slipped" a little bit, either during the LCA replacement or was loosened prior due to the vibration caused by having extremely warped rotors. The shop was great about it, though. They said "we don't know if we did it or not, but we'll fix it for free." They, reportedly, took the hub back apart, hit the axle with a hammer to get ti back into position and put the hub back together. Not a drop since. I should mention that every day the leak got worse, eventually basically dumping a quart per day out on the ground. Now I'm drops of thick grease on the ground - CV joint grease. Not a lot but just a couple drops. I guess I know what the *next* repair is going to be... Thanks for your input , everyone. I'm glad that this shop stepped up and helped us out and took ownership of the repair. That doesn't seem like the typical experience to me, these days. Thanks, --mobrien118

Just topped it off to within the cross-hatches and it took 3 qts... So, it's losing about 1/2 qt. per week. Is this stuff like oil where the cross-hatch area usually represents 1 qt (top to bottom)? Just trying to figure out how much I'm going to need to add how frequently until we get this fixed. Thinking this is not good. Should I be looking for permanent damage to the transmission now?

Hi, We recently had both front LCAs replaced due to worn bushings (evident through premature outer edge tire wear). About a week and a half later, we started noticing spots in the driveway and garage. Today, I checked the Oil, and it was a little low, but still within spec, and the transmission fluid... The trans fluid was not even showing up on the dipstick (yes, it was warm and running). I added a quart with it still running, and it is still not showing up on the dipstick. I'm going to go get more now and keep trying until it is leveled up. I took some pictures. I'm not a FWD person, so i don't know much about it, but it looks like the transmission is leaking near the CV boot? I'm not *sure* what the terminology for all these parts is, having only owned and worked on RWD vehicles for the past 20 years before this. Here are some pictures of the fluid soaked areas. Any ideas of common problems like this? Could this be due to an error made during the replacement of the LCA? Maybe just an otherwise worn part that was pushed past its limits during the LCA replacement? Any ideas on what to do before I take it to the shop would be much appreciated. I'm have no problem tearing it down with instructions. Finding the time is the hardest part... Thanks in advance for any ideas or guidance on how to proceed. --mobrien118

On the 2011 Edge, the SJB "replaces" (does the functions of) the BCM. jmr061 pointed this out (in different words) and I had actually just confirmed this right before I saw his post (I guess that means his post confirms what I looked up). I believe you're correct about the master code being permanent - everything I have (and, have I done some research!) found suggests that it can not be altered (which is intuitive, since it comes on a sticker on the box itself). The part that also makes sense that jmr061 mentioned is that they missed a step that "pushes" (for lack of a better term) the code to the RFA on cars that are equipped with IA. It seems that the function of controlling the door entry keypad is duplicated in order to allow it to interact with other entry systems, if you have that/those options. Looking forward to calling the shop this morning and trying to sort this out with them (sort of :-/).

We have the IA system/keys. They asked us to bring both of them in (/said they needed them both). Don't know what BCM or RFA are - but, am I correct in understanding that the codes are *stored* in the SJB? If they are, then they definitely did not replace it. If they are only programmed by the SJB, but not actually stored on it (which is what it sounds like you are saying), then maybe the just forgot a step (which you definitely said - I understood that much :-)...? Can this be? Is it possible for them to "finish the job" at this point? I don't know what they "threw away" from the old system - not sure that matters at this point.

The "new" code does not work... I have to admit, I was assuming that was the case - I even confronted the service writer, but he just played dumb (thus the "we just did what you asked"). I just didn't want to lead the question in case anyone on this forum had some kind of information that I didn't have. How can I *prove* this? How could someone make it *look* like they replaced the part when they actually didn't? I I haven't taken this part of this car apart before, so I don't know what a SJB is composed of. Is it possible to take it apart and swap parts of the "part"? Thanks, --mobrien118

OK, so $500+ later, here is where we are. We took it to the shop and had them replace the SJB, per their parts department's advice that "whenever we change these, they get a new master code". They repalced it The sticker on the box has a new code We got the new card with it, same *new* code as on the box Go to the keypad and try the old code - STILL WORKS On the keypad, try our old PERSONAL CODE - *STILL WORKS* Note, this all happened as I was picking up the car. Went back in to talk to the service desk about it - they don't know, they "did what I asked". While it was there, for a couple days they said they were having trouble programming the new box, then all of a sudden, they said it worked. He said "We did everything the same, it just worked this time! So, I don't know what went wrong the first time." Can anyone on here confirm - if the SJB is replaced, the existing *User Programmed Code" should cease to function - also, the "Factory Default Code" should be changed to the new code on the card and box. I asked them to see the old part and they said they threw it away - they didn't know they were going to need it (a fully working part, mind you). What is going on here? Anyone know? Thanks, --mobrien118

We do use it... A lot... Apparently, it is a function of the SJB. The evidence seems to be that the SJB comes with a new card, and the master code is on a sticker on it (I confirmed yesterday). 5 days ago I didn't know what a "Smart Junction Box" was, and now I believe I am an expert at them! --mobrien118

Thanks! Updated the original post with the year (2011).

Hello, My wife's car (2011 Edge Limited) was broken into at her work and the thieves stole her owner's manual - which has the card with the "Master Code" for the keyless entry system (think: the keypad on the door, not the "REMOTE Keyless Entry" system...) So, basically, if the criminals know what they have, they could come and go in her car whenever they want without setting off the slightest alarm. Maybe even pop up in the car one day (praying not). Anyway, I've been told that the solution seems to be to replace the "Smart Junction Box" which looks like, basically, the fuse box by the driver's left foot, which has some electronics in it. The price of the part doesn't look *too* outrageous. Also, I'm told that the vehicle will need to be hooked up the the dealer (or licensed technician's) computer to program the car to work with the box. Basically, my questions are: Can anyone confirm that this is the only part that will need to be replaced in order to eliminate the usage of the existing Master Code? Can anyone confirm that it does, in fact, need to be programmed by the shop (or the vehicle programmed to recognize it, not sure which way it works, or both)? On a slight tangent, is it universally true that the current code is printed on the existing SJB (I haven't looked yet, but part of verifying that it is changed is knowing what it was originally, which I don't because somebody stole it)? Thanks, in advance, to whomever is willing to help me answer these questions! --mobrien118

I have a bluetooth OBD-II scanner, but the code doesn't show up on the main register (at least not after it is not displayed, I haven't been able to catch it in the act, since this is my wife's car). It seems that the code is clearing out after the issue is cleared. I remember back in the old days, before ODB-II there used to be multiple ports as different systems had separate computers. That wouldn't be the case here, would it? Thanks!! --mobrien118

Right, I'm trying to use the power of forum groups to aid in the diagnosis, which I will perform for less than $199 myself. What I'm looking for is: what common causes of AdvanceTrac failure coincide with recently having work done on your brake system; Specifically, issues that would cause a warning to be displayed when the car is warmed up and only when recently parked. I am hoping that some other people have had similar issues with the system and can point me in the right direction before I go digging. Unfortunately, as experienced of a "weekend warrior" I am, I have very little knowledge of how the AdvanceTrac system works. Thanks, --mobrien118

You didn't happen to take it to Suntrup lately, did you? I had warranty repair of my brake booster done there and when i brought it home it started doing this. Just when idling after driving. They say it is a coincidence that it started the day after they worked on it... --mobrien118

Hello, I had my 2011 Edge in to the dealership 2 weeks ago to perform the work described in "Bulletin 13N02" - ("Extended Warranty on Brake Booster on Ford Edge"), due to moderately severe issues with the brake pedal caused by a torn brake booster. I got it back from them and the next day the "Service AdvanceTrac" warning came up on the instrument cluster. It only happens when the vehicle is idling for a bit. I called the dealership back to report what was going on and they said "It is probably just a coincidence" and "We will take a look at it for $199, which will be applied to any repair." Seriously? A new warning *related to the brake system* comes on the day after you complete work on the brakes, and you suggest that it is a coincidence...? Anyway, does anyone know what the common causes of this issue are? Especially ones that could be caused by replacing the brake booster... Thank you *very* much! --mobrien118

The whole reason I use these forums is to *avoid* calling a mechanic, and *especially* avoid going to the dealership!! lol (sorry, Ford representative, I have had *much* better results fixing it myself then when I take it in for repairs, go ahead and ask me for examples) I'm basically trying to figure out if this is a known and/or epidemic issue (as most usually are, like my "door ajar" switch wearing out for the second time) If it is not a typical issue and/or if nobody can contribute to me troubleshooting and solving this myself, I will then have to weigh the options of going deeper myself or paying a mechanic. Sorry for all of the negativity. You caught me on a Monday morning. Thanks, --mobrien118

Hi, I have a 2011 Edge (FWD) and the front right wheel grinds when making a left-hand turn. Actually, it's been getting worse for the past 6 months and now it makes *some* noise when going straight (faint, though). The grinding is relative to speed and the amount of turning and happens consistently. I have checked the brakes several times and there is plenty of meat on the pads and the calipers are engaging and releasing as normal. I assume this would be caused by a bearing going bad, but I just wanted to verify that this is the correct diagnosis. If that is the case, can anyone tell me what a typical cost for repair would be? Does it include replacement of the hub assembly or just bearing and are there any other recommended repairs that are either related or should just be done in conjunction? Finally, is the repair difficult to do or does it require any special tools? I'm pretty handy, but time and risk are factors for me these days. Thanks, --mobrien118