JETZ

Wit dem white walls, and body color wheel trim...dats for sure 'mon amie'. Lol

I prefer the "bathurst" model. It remind me of the "Niche Targa" wheels… See below...

 

Claude.

 

22's!

why would you buy aftermarket 21s?? Go with 20s or 22s unless you like paying extra for odd tire size. Shoot the tires I would want for 21s are $600 for ONE!

On a heavy SUV, I would not go to a 35 AR tire, certainly NOT a 30 which are meant for performance cars, not SUV's. Plus, the lower the AR (sidewall), the bigger the tire/ fender gap, so unless you would put lowering springs on your car to close the gap it will look odd. Bent rims are in your future on pot holed roads.

great advice so would a 275 35 22 and 285 30 22 would theses sizes work?

The Rascasse, Monaco...too busy, too many spokes, pain in the butt to clean.

Out of the three, Monaco is my choice, but not in black.

The body coloured stripes... AND the whitewalls.

After you get the rust issue addressed, I would take it to 'Krown' for piece of mind.

frank

Hi.

I`m also new to forum. I just purchased a 2014 Edge SEL with only 28,000 miles on it last Saturday. It has a couple issues. I thought that I had looked it over thoroughly, before I picked it up at The Ford dealership, but I missed rust bubbles under the paint all along the bottom of the rear hatch. Just wondering if anyone has experienced this problem, and should I be concerned with rust under the vehicle as well. It`s still under the 3 year 36,000-mile factory warranty. Should I have them fix it, or have them replace the hatch. The vehicle has had what we call a car proof here in Canada which reports any accidents that the vehicle has had and it showed none

The other issue is that this Edge really rides rough over any kind roads that has small bumps or potholes. It does have the original Scorpion 20-inch tires and rims on it and I was thinking maybe that was making the ride so rough. Any help would be appreciated.

thanks Fred

Buddy, you are funny!

But here is what YOU said in our conversations...

"I started at 17 mm, and ordered, then called back next day to switch to 30mm (1.18")

I'm NOT looking for the big wheel truck look, and hope it's not a mistake."

"If too big, and rub, I can have them Cnc machined, but would be learning lesson."

"Or they will be in the classified section on here we will see they may cause problem for the 22 with the offset they have. I saw a pic of a guy with 2 inch spacers on one of these forum, and it looked goofy."

"I don't think I'll have a problem in full lock, but I did order them a tad too big, 20mm, or 25mm would have worked".

"All I can say is if I was interested in your opinion, I would have asked you for it. It worked out well for me exactly what was intended..."

Tried to help the guy, didn't say anything he didn't say himself...LOL

Well it's your car, but sorry to say it doesn't look so good with the wheels sticking out a mile. I would order the 'correct ones'. I could not live with it looking like that.

You did say you don't want that big truck look!

So, what's the word? Are you ordering new adapters?

'but I did order them a tad to big 20 mm or 25 mm would have worked '

Hmmm...where did I hear that before, 'measure twice, cut once.

Lol

'Spacers' are just that, different thickness of discs to let you make adjustments (up to I believe 3/8"). Then any thicker needs become 'Adapters' with the built in studs.

No it didn't change the bolt pattern, but it could ie. putting Chevie wheels on Fords and so on.

Go back on the WS from where you ordered, 'Adapters' is the Terminology

frank.

Yes they are illegal but only an issue for inspection. So your adapters did they also change your bolt pattern too is that why u call em adapters

Are 'adapters' illegal in your state? Do they remove the wheels for the inspection? If so, they would notice that the studs are 'short'.

Reason I went so wide is for PA state inspection so that I can take off spacers each year and put wheels back on to pass inspection without replacing studs.

I've had my 'ADAPTERS', not ('spacers') lol on since last June, then installed my 22's. The next week I had 'Hunter Hawkeye Elite Laser Alignment'. The reason I mention this is that Old School alignment method involved mounting the alignment adapters to the wheels by four clamping mounting points, and always left four damaged marks on the wheels. When they are the stock wheels, it bothers me. When they are expensive aftermarket wheels it would really piss me off.

The new systems clamp to the tires, and no problem.

I have not noticed any issues, and plan on getting car aligned, wheels rebalanced when I swap the wheels in the spring.

Wheel bearing can be an issue also, so far so good.

Jetz with your spacers have you noticed any ball joint issue, tie rod issues or have to do any wheel alignment. Have you had even tire wear? How long have you had the spacers on this would be helpful information to myself and others. these were other concerns about changing geometry of suspension and wear/repairs on those parts.

 

The stock wheels sit in so far, that's why I got them, I run them year round.

I never planned to take them off, but I would not be comfortable with running my stock wheels over the winter on short studs.

Red Loctite, didn't have any blue...and I didn't want to spend the big bucks! Lol

frank

With your studs cut are you able to take spacer off and put wheel on with enough thread to get 8 turn or so or would you have to replace all stud if u take spacers off? Red or blue locktite?

As I tried to explain to you, Explorers are wider than an Edge, that why I chose the .75" width for the front, and 1.0" for the rear. Your wheels are pretty well flush, so by going 30mm, they are defiently going to stick out, especially on the front, and may even rub in full lock. Plus throw up road debris! Why you went with adapters is beyond me, especially 30mm! Yes, sorry, but I think you did make a mistake.

Can't recall the exact measurements F/R, but as you can see in the pic a little less flush than the adapter, so that the wheel hub, and adapter make a clean seal. Torque to 100fp. Yes I used Loctite. Drive 100 miles, and re-torque all nuts.

Yes Lenny is the guy I spoke with I started at 17 mm and ordered then called him back the next day to switch to 30mm 1.18 inch I have the same Sport rims I guess we will see I am not looking for the big wheel truck look and hope it's not a mistake. have cutting wheel I plan to use how much of the stud did you cut off?

Yes Lenny is the guy I spoke with I started at 17 mm and ordered then called him back the next day to switch to 30mm 1.18 inch I have the same Sport rims I guess we will see I am not looking for the big wheel truck look and hope it's not a mistake. have cutting wheel I plan to use how much of the stud did you cut off?

...also

You will most likely have to cut you stock studs flush with the ADAPTERS so that you wheels will seat with the ADAPTERS!

I'm kinda of surprised, that you're doing your research NOW!

30 mm 'ADAPTERS' will be too wide, especially on the front, and make your wheels stick out past the lip, unless you like that kind thing.

Are you putting different wheels on, or staying with the stockers?

I have 3/4", and 1.0" ADAPTERS on my Explorer Limited, with 22" Edge Sport wheels on 285/40 tires.

I also got them from the same shop. I'm sure you dealt with 'Lenny', and surprised he didn't give you some better advice.

My Ex is wider than an Edge, that's why I got my adapters to bring the wheel/tire flush withe the fender lip.

Your stock wheels are pretty flush, so my question is why are you getting them, why so wide?

frank

I just ordered custom made wheel spacers for 2013 sport. The spacers are 30mm hub and wheel centric anyone have spacers on on? Kinda hoping I did go to wide

I agree, 'Pimp my ride'...

How bout this? LOL

96 LBS? CF wheels?

Not buying that weight reduction.

Let's see the facts/figures.

Just for fun, I went to 'Tirerack' and input my Hankook 255/50/20 stockers on my Explorer LTD -35LBS. Then I input Yokohama 'Parada Spec' 265/40/22 -35LBS!

So the 'after market' wheels you got must be 'styrofoam'.!!!

Keep in mind, heavier wheel and tire mean performance loss. I just went from stock 21s to aftermarket 20s and shaved off 96lb! Feels like an extra 50hp with the butt dyno, will test it at the track on Wed. A lot more tire choices in the 20s too.

lol

I'm not sure that this 'thing' has CC's!

So, I guess that you would find fender skirts cheesy too. lol

On an Edge for sure!

So, I guess that you would find fender skirts cheesy too. lol

Look great!

You will look cheap...and cheesy.

I laugh everytime I see them.

Paint/powdercoat them.

Need recommendation for red caliper covers. I don't want it to look cheap but don't want to spend a ton of money. Thanks.

2011 Ford Edge sport

I guess your nephew found ' the only pot hole in town'.

Come on, pot holes everywhere, especially in 'rust belt' areas, and because of crazy fluctuations in winter temp is causing the pot hole issue. We have plenty in Toronto!

That, plus the lower aspect ratio tires '40' for the Sport, and probably 35, or 30 for the Bimmer are magnets for finding pot holes.

Bigger wheels have to go with lower 'AR' tires so they will even fit on the vehicle. Can you imagine a '265/75/22', lots of cushion there, but very tall (don't think they even make this size in a 22. Lower 'AR' tire are for better handling especially in sporty cars. The shorter the side wall, the faster the tire reaction time. I run 30/25's on my Vette, and drive with ' eyes wide open' wary of pot holes.

Big wheels with short tires look better, but there are the trade off's...

BMW had the same problems with their big rims. My nephew had to replace 3 out of 4 rim rims on a 325. They gave him the same BS about it being pot hole damage. It must have been one big mutha of a pot hole lol. I guess they don't think its a safety problem.