onewomanarmy

I don't use it very often, but just noticed that things like vehicle health report, directions, etc are no longer showing up on my 2012 Edge. I started poking around online and found on MyFord's page that you have to "renew" your complimentary subscription for Sync, apparently yearly. I don't remember doing this last year, so I'm a little confused. Clicked on the renew button, was told I had successfully renewed my complimentary subscription, but still none of the usual stuff shows up. I did update in Sept to whatever the latest update was and there doesn't appear to be anything newer. Also had to have the APIM replaced around that same time. Like I said, I don't use these specific things very often, so have no idea how long they've been missing, but they are handy when I need them and would like to have them back if possible. Phone still functions like it should (as far as I know). I've been poking around the forums to see if I can find info on this, and may have missed it - there are certainly no shortage of issues with the whole system. If anyone has any words of wisdom or can point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it! Thanks!

Where do you guys get your windows tinted? Local shop? Dealer? Or do you install your own tint? I don't have any idea what a reasonable cost would be to tint the fronts and maybe the windshield but I've sure seen a lot of crappy tint jobs out there. I'd like to avoid them.

I agree! Sometimes I don't even see the alert - just hear the chime. Either the alert is popping up before the chime or it's not coming up at all sometimes. Other times it's up just long enough for me to see that THAT'S A SONG I'D REALLY LIKE TO HEAR! to register in my head - and then it's gone. Still other times, it stays up for what seems like an eternity. Which I only know because it's not a song I want to hear... I think it's mocking me.

Thanks for the info from both of you! I think I'm getting a handle on the proper ways to maintain nice surfaces. We're struggling right now with a decision though. Our dealer has offered their ResistAll package free of charge. Of course, I'm always skeptical in these situations and I've seen the comments from several people about not wanting the dealerships to touch their new car. My better half thinks I'm paranoid though (and thinks I've gotten mighty picky given we used to take our car through the car wash! ) and thinks if it's truly free, we shouldn't pass it up. The only thing that really interests me is the insurance side of the package. I'm not under any impression that ResistAll really protects for 5-7 years or whatever, but insurance against some of the stuff they cover might be nice. We've enjoyed our experience with the dealership so far and to my untrained eye the dealer prep looked ok. That ought to tell you what a novice I am with all this stuff! Whatever route we go on that though, I believe I'm still going to proceed with CQ and all the other stuff. I had read about the Iron X and meant to ask if anyone had used the Iron X Soap. Was curious what the difference is and whether it works as well. Also, I notice on AutoGeek that it says to keep Iron X off chrome. So would I need to keep it off the chrome clad wheels? Thought maybe I was misunderstanding you Richy when you said to use it on the wheels to remove the brake dust. I assume I'd need to mask areas like the grill and such? Supposed to be a rainy day tomorrow...we'll see just how far into my head you detailers have gotten when I get home from work and have a road water dirty vehicle in the garage... :D Thanks again for the info!

We finally picked up our new Edge Weds night - loving it so far! It's so pretty and new and sparkly...and I want to keep it that way! Unfortunately, keeping up with this kind of thing hasn't been my strength in the past - but I've learned a lot on this board and am aiming higher this time. So, keeping in mind my noob-ness in this area, wanted to get some feedback on what I'm planning on doing and hopefully a few answers to my questions. Started by breaking down the different surfaces I want to keep up and then figuring out what product to use on each based on what I've learned throughout this thread. I've got a lot of questions...but I don't want to ruin any of the surfaces before I make the first payment. :wacko: 1. Interior-wise, I'll use Aerospace 303 (leather, plastics, dash, steering wheel). Is there anything I should be careful NOT to get A303 on? 2. Thought I saw on Detailed Image that this (A303) can also be used on headlights. Will this offer a little bit of protection there? 3. I picked up some Stoner Invisible Glass wipes for glass. I guess I don't have a question here - may be the only spot! 4. Tires and Chrome Clad wheels. If I remember correctly, P21S is one recommended here for tires and wheels/chrome clad? Would Aerospace 303 work as well or is that pushing it for A303? I assume neither of these will give the nice shiny black new look to the tires? Hmm don't think I've picked out a protectant for the chrome clad. Suggestions? Will also go back through this thread to see what is recommended. 5. Paint...this is the complicated one because of the time commitment. I have a hard time finding the time to do the multiple steps involved in doing a really good job cleaning and protecting the paint job. And now it's turned cold and freezy here. Yay. <_< SO, I figure some no rinse product is in store for me. I picked up some Griots Waterless Car Wash to reach a cart total on my floor mat order. So I've got that on hand but I get the impression that the ONR stuff is really good too. Is there a difference between the two? Does the ONR give somewhat of a protective factor as well? I see that you can use ONR for claybar lubricant and don't see that mentioned with respect to the Griots so it makes me wonder if it's a more versatile product and worth having on hand along with the Griots. 6. Sealants. I'm thinking I'll wash with the No Rinse stuff and am planning on either clay barring or Iron-X-ing next because I'd like to put on some CQuartz. For the average person, will NOT clay barring or using Iron-X be a major issue? I'm a little nervous about either - I don't want to do more damage than good. I'm assuming improper use of clay bar would cause scratching and I see that there are some surfaces you don't want to get the Iron-X on. Not to mention the time. I'm slow at all this because I'm just learning. I know they say to polish to highest standard on the Cquartz website. I guess what I want to know is, if I give it a good cleaning and possibly clay bar and then put on Cquartz, am I going to do any damage that can't be undone by a decent detailer? :blush: I would like to progress in my skill at taking care of my own car over time and eventually do all the steps properly, but want to add some protection now while I'm learning. Also, I see in the description that CQ can be used on glass, leather, plastic, wheels, etc. Could it be used on the Chrome Clad wheels as a protectant? Also, what's best on the plastic molding on the bottom of the body? I'm sure that's on here somewhere but I'm not remembering now... Sheesh! That's probably enough question for now. I may be being a little anal, but you guys have impressed upon me the ease at which paint surfaces can be destroyed - or at least marred! I'm sure that can happen as quickly from ignorance as it can through neglect. Thanks for any help! (I'm also trying to minimize cost a bit by using items for multiple areas - after the cost of the Edge, good floor mats, cargo mat, rear bumper protection, screen protector, bug/wind shields, some sort of dog proofing...costs are adding up and I'm starting to get the look. <_< )

We just picked up our 2012 Edge last night and the front headrests do adjust forwards and back. You pull the headrest forward and it almost sounds like a ratchet - several small clicks that allow you to stop it in several positions. To tilt it back again, just pull it all the way forward and then push back. This is on a Limited. Hope that helps! (I haven't moved them vertically yet.)

Thanks Canuck! You've put some of my worries at ease. I was afraid by not doing things exactly so at the beginning, I'd regret it later - but at the same time, worried that I was biting off more than I could chew. It's a big step from driving through a gas station car wash to clay barring and sealing a new car for the first time! I've really learned a lot from your posts and the discussion around them. I feel so much more informed and better able to take care of our new Edge. Now, if it will just get here... thanks again for all the info - wish you and your business were a litle closer! :D

Does anyone know if these would work for a 2012? I don't know how much difference between the bumpers of the 11 and 12. I'd think there's not a great deal, but don't know if it's enough to keep this Scion guard from fitting as well. Sure is a great option though - kudos to the person who figured out the fit!

We've just ordered a 2012 Edge (Mineral Gray Metallic w/ Charcoal interior). In the past, I've been pretty lackadasical about taking care of the details of our car's appearances for the most part. Which means I've generally driven through a car wash (all the while suspecting it probably wasn't the best thing to do to a car finish). I'm going to try to change my bad habits :surrender: but will be taking baby steps. I've read through this thread and have learned a lot. I also know how slow I am at (properly) washing a car - so when I think about washing/drying, clay baring, sealing, waxing....this seems like a weeklong process to me. And I'm surely going to need to drive the car at some point in that process - so I'd have to start over (if I hadn't made it past the sealing stage). Also, being new to the steps beyond washing - I'm a little nervous that I'll cause more damage than I would have by not doing anything! The other problem is that I'm guessing we won't be picking up until mid-December or so. :violin: SO, I'm putting together my plan and wanted to get some clarifications and/or suggestions. It sounds like the first step is catch the dealer and not let them touch the vehicle any more than possible! Which leads to my first question - just out of curiosity, what do you do different if the dealer has already "detailed" a new vehicle? So, we get the vehicle (yay!) and take it home. Wash it properly (two buckets, sheepskin pad, etc), dry it with MF towel. This is where my big question comes in. I see that this is where most people use the clay bar to remove even more stuff from the clearcoat - but I've also seen mention of using a product like IronX. Generally one after the other. I'm a little worried that I'll a)do some damage with the clay bar and b)the time involved in doing this step will make it harder to get everything done that I'll need to do. So, keeping in mind that I'm new to this taking care of the finish thing, is just using the IronX a decent option? Or is that defeating the purpose and asking for more problems? My next question, I've seen mention of Power Lock and UPGP - is one easier to use than the other? more highly recommended? longer lasting? I'll be doing more research but didn't seem to get a feel one way or the other on this thread. Also, I've noticed that Opti-Coat is a permanent sealant - why would you not use this vs the ones you have to reapply every few months? How important is waxing after sealing? I've noticed that you are supposed to wait 24 hours for sealant to cure - what if you don't wax after that? I guess I'm just trying to put together a plan that will best protect the finish of our new Edge, while at the same time being realistic about my ability to do all the steps (time-wise) and do them properly. Whew! That's a lot of questions! Thanks for any input - and thanks for all the good information on these boards! (Does anyone else have to ocassionally remind themselves when reading about the "MF" towels that the poster isn't angry with the towels? :eek5: )