WWWPerfA_ZN0W

It IS fun living life a 1/4 mile at a time ... once in a while Even with CCD there have been some hiccups, so no track is going to be immune.

Welcome to the support group LOL. Hope we can assist. Be sure to put questions in the appropriate subforums!

No indication of differences. I could go down into the parts detail, usually it is either a change in clutches, or simply standardization across the board. But I do not see why a newer transmission would not work with an early MY Flex. You would have to update the solenoid strategy in the PCM, that would be the major change. Sometimes there are a few minor things like elimination of unneeded mounting points, like they do with engines. Should not affect the control of the transmission by the PCM, or significantly alter the work required to install the transmission.

I will look in the FSM to see if it holds any clues as to differences, and update if I find any. Also will compare parts.

Yes on the 6F50, but the rest is a bit complicated. Is his Flex FWD or AWD. Looks like only the FWDs have the early/late issue, as the AWDs are showing a production date of 05/2008-05/2010. The later FWD transmission is compatible to the one in the 2009-10 Edge 3.5 version.

Example from FordPartsGiant.com

Part Fitment

Make Model Year Engine Important vehicle option details

Ford Edge 2009-2010 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Ford Flex 2009-2012 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Ford Taurus 2010-2011 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Lincoln MKS 2010-2011 6 Cyl 3.5L, 6 Cyl 3.7L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Lincoln MKT 2010-2011 6 Cyl 3.5L, 6 Cyl 3.7L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Lincoln MKX 2009-2010 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

As to the EARLY version of the transmission, only cross-references to the MKS.

9E9Z-7000-ARM
Automatic Transmission Assy
Remanufactured

Fit Note:
3.16 Ratio
Production Date: 05/2008-05/2009

Part Fitment

Make Model Year Engine Important vehicle option details

Ford Flex 2009 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Lincoln MKS 2009 6 Cyl 3.7L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

9E9Z-7000-BRM
Automatic Transmission Assy
Remanufactured

Fit Note:
3.39 Ratio
Production Date: 05/2008-05/2009

Part Fitment

Make Model Year Engine Important vehicle option details

Ford Flex 2009 6 Cyl 3.5L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Lincoln MKS 2009 6 Cyl 3.7L 6AT 6F50, 6AT 6F55, Four-Wheel Drive (Full Time), Four-Wheel Drive (Part Time), Front-Wheel Drive

Yes, the hubs are coated.

Use engine hours and an initial oil analysis to see when to change your oil at an optimal interval. Engine hours can be tracked via trip meters built into the instrument cluster. Recommendations are 200 hours all highway, 100 hours all city/stopngo, and 150 for mixed conditions. The oil analysis will help you refine it further. If you do choose to get the used oil analyzed, please post the results here

The 3.5 is a noisy little bugger, and so are the ecoboost engines in their own way. That said, for gen 1.5, there was a tsb issued to address noise appearing to come from the valve cover area, MAY apply to your Gen 2 in a similar vein. Especially since you feel that the engine begins to get noisier 4K into the OCI. It should sound about the same throughout, UNLESS you are driving a LOT of hard miles like idling, WOT, or stopngo.

I assume you are using not only the Motorcraft oil of the correct weight (5w20) but also the filter (FL500S)? Definitely stick with full synthetic when in doubt. You could try different brands, as they will have different effects from a subjective viewpoint at least. Oil is not Oil

Towing is where I might think twice with the 2.0, but no reason not to go for it otherwise. Do maintain fluids regularly, engine oil and transmission in particular.

The instructions for manual release of the liftgate are here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1fv8z-AqOpghGEmK-_0UA_PRCjLUHQZ4b

If you are even a little into DIY, given how deep into electronics vehicles are these days, a DVOM is a no-brainer to have around. Even ones from the much maligned Harbor Freight. Here is a look at what macbwt's toolbox has evolved into LOL

Simple fix at least. Hopefully the replacement battery lasts a day or two longer, LOL.

180k combined?

The same oils recommended in the series will stand up to scrutiny in the Ecoboost. More and more, the oils are designed with direct injection in mind anyway. Naturally aspirated port fuel injection engines are just along for the ride LOL.

That Edge is barely driven! It needs to have the battery charged up on a proper charger, then maintained with a battery tender. Or you could opt to replace the lead acid battery with an AGM type battery. The AGM is stouter, although this would be bandaiding the problem. Keeping the battery charged either through sufficient driving or a battery tender is the real fix.

Shoulda done it eons ago LOL. Yes, do switch to a quality full synthetic oil, with no regrets. 5W30 for your Ecoboost. Comparative data is at mactgarage.com for 5w20 oils but composition generally carries over to 5w30 as well.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1oTuPwZHKoSqFLClaZrBhMh9D5vpX0VhLZrmVdLyFnbE/edit#gid=1379600026

The Motorcraft filter is a good filter for 5K, I think longterm 7.5K is probably the absolute max under normal driving conditions. If you want better filtration, you certainly have options that use full synthetic media and filter out more contaminants. But the FL500S is pretty good for the intended use.

Is the battery verified working ok? CCAs?

There is a cinch button that needs to be depressed once the access cover is removed. Need a flatbladed screwdriver for this. If that does not open the latch, use the screwdriver to hook to the latch release on the right side of the cover opening and slide the screwdriver to the left to open the latch.

You mean this one?

CT4Z-9910494-A

Under Cover

2.0 LITER

$130.95 $90.36

-W716006-S439

Under Cover Retainer Nut

Under Cover Retainer

2.0 LITER

$2.50 $1.44

BB5Z-00817-A

Rear Plate Retainer Clip

Under Cover Fastener

2.0 LITER

$13.12 $9.05

https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/auto-parts/2012/ford/edge/sel-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/body-cat/splash-shields-scat

Marketing, as opposed to cost. Gotta differentiate trim levels. Seems silly, but the Sport would not get HIDs in Gen 1.5, but the Titanium would. So it goes.

You would like to think so, wouldn't you? LOL.

I believe a fellow Gen 2 owner has the Power Stop kit on his vehicle as well. Likes them so far.

As far as the HID lights, you would have to swap the headlamp assemblies. I don't know if they still separate fuses for each HID headlamp, vs a single fuse for the halogens, but that is another (minor consideration).

Back to brakes!!! Wish the BBKs were more affordable, but there is always Rotora if you namedrop Xtra in the right ear, or so I hear

mostly late night/early morning. seems to clear up during the 1st shift

Three words. Group Sixtyfive AGM. You can get the Motorcraft Toughmax in 800 CCA form for not that much. Or you can step up to the monster Odyssey

Rear WBs do cost more as an assembly ... Fronts come as WBs or WB kits, IDK what they are installing.

Time to reboot the server maybe? Forum performance has been slooow for me last couple of days.

Congrats!!!

Who tunes your rides makes a big difference in how much performance you can extract. E is highly underrated as a fuel, especially in GTDI applications. Even with E30 you can rock your ride