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was the transmission programming updated? have you serviced the fluid?

On 8/8/2024 at 10:49 AM, EDST777 said:

 

why change the solenoids, they are reliable enough, what can happen to them, what kind of damage?... it seems to me that it is possible to replace rubber rings, seals on them and this will be enough, perhaps I do not know about something....

solenoids are oil driven and as such exposed to the debris in oil, which their screens collect over time and hamper solenoid function. the worst is when timing chain or water pump bearing failure occurs - guess where the debris from that also goes.

wow haven't seen a filter go like that in ages.

could be just a defective unit, but generally i stay with purolator boss or motorcraft for this very reason. am sure you would do fine with mobil1 and royal purple filters too as far as reliability.

edit: as far as plastic vs metal impellers, it is also a compromise just like oil filters. should the metal fail it will cause serious damage throughout the engine. from what i have seen the plastic basically dissolves lol. idk which is better, but maintaining coolant is def a priority.

whine or roar from the rear part of the awd system is not a good thing. you will likely end up replacing the rdu if it has gotten to this point.

maybe its just the tires, but statistically, it will turn out to be the rdu. check fluid level and condition first. see if refreshing the fluid helps any. it is $$$ without warranty to fix a failing rdu.

check the rear calipers. on this gen, they tend to seize quite often especially if the parking brake function is not regular used or calipers are not regularly serviced.

i tend to go with ford/motorcraft parts these days, aftermarket is not so reliable. i did use denso injectors on our 2010 fusion sport and they have been working splendidly.

assuming the work was done correctly, it is possible the fuel rail is contaminated or the fuel itself is. i would have cleaned the fuel rail after taking it out but that's me no one else i know has done this or reported issues without having done so.

seals did you buy them separately? should have come with the injectors. there will be a very slight wiggle since they have a little flex but not much at all. very possibly they are not tight enough. we have had problems with aftermarket seals on tss oss sensors as well.

all the latches are prone to failure except the liftgate, so far.

some have had the passenger front fail some one of the rear ones.

i think ford MAY have a bulletin on the passenger front but not sure.

i have had door jamb issues on other fords but not latches, i agree. but ford heavily upgraded the electronics in 2011, and that led imho to a number of failures not seen in 2007-2010 MYs.

it may be enough to fool the signal wire into thinking the door is always closed, it may not. but people have added a jumper to that wire and been happy with it.

i have had weathertechs in our 2007 forever ... barely vacuum them. i will say they do not have the best grip if your shoes are not also grippy. so maybe you could spray some shower liner tack or something to give it a better feel. 

have worn well tho, stay in place.

you can try resetting the climate control. may take a few tries. then there is programming update by the dealer. the final stage is actually replace both blend door actuators. this is all assuming the cooling and a/c system are working as intended.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2013+ford+edge+sel+climate+control+reset+

why was the oil level low? is it checked regularly? first time it was low or has it happened before?

note that short tripping will cause a lot of oil to enter via the pcv system into the intake/engine and will be hard on engine life. maybe you should consider installing a catchcan. you can find related topics on this forum, including one from lildisco iirc.

why was the engine replaced? hopefully you have a VEP engine now. some received Cleveland blocks ...

depending on which part of canada, they use salt or rocks (!). regardless having krown rustproofing applied/maintained is a popular thing to do there. especially important if you have a 2011+ vehicle, i see more rust issues in those MYs.

in past eras japanese vehicles were known to be quite rust resistant. seems like they are slowly falling off the cliff as well. i believe they galvanized exposed metal to maintain that protection.

if you still have the old mc, see if you can swap the seals. otherwise maybe a dealer can provide new ones to you.

you can try getting air out of the abs with a few hard stops that activate abs either in forward or reverse. but follow it up with a main system bleed. good time to flush the fluid as well.

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1olvLMZLqtu6JdBydE5EPea-QnabsV8iV

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QD2rc8aGzqQtznxxiAzf2TGy0K4GkJA-/view?usp=drive_link

how long have you owned your edge? mileage? maintenance history esp oil and coolant? how do oil and coolant look:? any mixing? over/underfilled?

best we can hope for is coils, plugs, and/or pcm. not surprised you are getting misfires on bank 1, usually where it happens. the general misfire code is what worries me. could be pcm failure driving this. to fix you would repair the pcm and replace plugs/coils all in 1 go.

the cat code may be a downstream consequence of all this.

there is a real possibility you are looking at timing chain and/or wp failure.  put your vehicle on an obd scanner and note the errors on both intake and exhaust solenoids on both banks.

On 12/4/2023 at 7:56 PM, RrmyGuy said:

I just replaced a master cylinder. Brakes were working, just spongy. No issues with ABS, now they just lock up after a while. I can bleed the pressure from the either front bleed valve and drive it until it locks up over time. I think I just got a bad quality MC. I just wanted to see if anyone else had a similar issue. 

what brand mc did u install? if aftermarket, their seals are known to be no good and usually transferring the old seals over fixes issues.

otherwise you may need to bench bleed the mc.

note that this generation is at a point where the abs is starting to give way if fluids have not been regularly maintained. so it could still be the HCU acting up as it is the distribution box for the brakes. you have to bleed the abs separately from the main system to get air out of it using a service procedure available through forscan lite, high end scan tools, or the dealer.

well if the mechanicals are sound, we would need to verify the electricals - alternator, battery, starter, and key  fob.

if the dash comes on as normal when you turn the key but the antitheft light is flashing fast, there is most likely a problem with the keyfob. in a very low percentage of situations, it is the PATS ring.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SCMnMVIkc-2j9rBFqZgFB9cTtsFNZQGp/view?usp=drive_link

Potential Number of Units Affected 78,376

recall 22s14 Certain 2021-2022 Model Year Edge Vehicles with SYNC 4 APIM Module Reprogramming Due to Distorted screen - summary.pdf

macbwt is using detroit axle kit but needed some motorcraft parts. generally best to go with motorcraft or mevotech ttx/supreme if available.

NVM looks like a new oil pan finally spec'd instead of new seal + 24 hr wait ...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ks3vqWXY1zMT4LpcsdqpLk5bRlb5iLFz/view?usp=drive_link

SSM 49210 - 2009-2020 Various Vehicles - Turbocharger Oil Supply Tube/Drain Tube/O-ring Or 6.7L Pedestal Gasket Oil Leaks

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IU8OeBwspTXpfGvIuhfzKlTZ4H6mO3_n/view?usp=drive_link

Some 2018-2019 Edge/Continental/Fusion/MKZ, 2018 MKX, and 2019 Nautilus vehicles equipped with a 2.7L EcoBoost or 3.0L EcoBoost engine may exhibit an oil leak from the engine oil pan RTV seal.

@SammyV nothing grossly wrong with the powertrains in the 2019+ MYs but

1. possible coolant loss due to faulty egr cooler

2. transmission jerking issues that usually can be resolved through programming updates, sometimes need a new torque converter

3. low levels of fluid in the ptu and or rdu from factory

4. the big one to me, faulty of start stop accumulators, which when leaky could possibly cause a fire

in any case, highly advise getting the max ford protect warranty (premiumcare if electronics heavy especially) with your purchase or soon after. you can buy from an online ford dealer such as https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/

you can also follow along on mact's journey with his 2019 2.0 if you like

https://www.youtube.com/@MACTFordEdge/videos

can't tell you how many people become new owners of used cars and are unprepared for the damage already in place. many times the seller will not tell the buyer the full history, just enough to make issues seem innocuous. just sad.

https://drive.google.com/drive/u/1/folders/1IKPvNZ8e9QHJYhw4C_kSDt0dsFXtM2oo

i think you are locked into the plug-coil-pcm death cycle. you will see the tsbs in the link i posted above.

everything should be repaired/replaced all at one time. https://circuitboardmedics.com can repair your damaged pcm.

you can buy the coil kit ba5z-12259-a from any online ford dealer, or from swagperformance on ebay. this will have coils and plugs and manifold gaskets.

this thread is the first i have seen re throttle body issues on the 2.0. good to know.

@TxBucki dont need the alternator to start the vehicle, the battery should be plenty strong. i assume the cranking is at normal speed, not slow. of course each attempt without a successful start will drain the new battery further.

what happens when you use starting fluid? does it turnover then? if it does, it is a fuel problem. did you have any signs of that with the old battery? i dont know if the explorer has the same setup as an f150, but this is one possibility

unless you tried jumpstarting the vehicle before replacing the battery, there shouldn't have been an electrical issue created by the battery.

should definitely check the alternator. since it is an obd2 system, check codes with a code reader.