omar302

FYI, in case you didn't already know, the ATC is sold separately, in case the differential is good and you don't want to replace the whole assembly.

As far as I know, A/C systems on Ford vehicles come with the dye already inside the system from the factory. So leaks can be detected faster. This is from the 2015 Service Manual, but I would expect it to still be the same. Fluorescent Dye Leak Detection.pdf

This probably indicates a bad (Active Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid. This is the front part of the RDU and controls how much the rear axle connects with the front.

Hi, Did you eventually change the rears? If so, how did you find the old ones?

My 2016 already had the Sock intake. Hence I only purchased the exhaust kit and installed several years ago. Just to be clear, the back seat is much better with the fix, it does not heat up after some time, and my back does not heat up compared with ot off, but it is no where as effective as the seat bottom.

The fix posted is only for the intake side so that it can take in cooler air. But the exhaust would remain to the seat back cavity, so eventually the seat back will heat up to a point where it can no longer be cooled by the TED. The best fix is to have both, intake & exhaust routed outside the seat back. However, your Edge is a 2017 model. Midway in 2016 Ford added a "sock" for the intake so it can take in air from under the seat. So your Edge is good on the intake side. To improve your seat back cooling you need the exhaust side. Unfortunately, the guy (Tim) who used to sell those kits doesn't seem to sell them anymore. But I remember some F150 owners making their own fixes using duct tape and tubing. But I couldn't find any searching now. Also, the F150 thread you linked talks about another issue some are facing with their seats, it is an electrical issue, if it happens causes the whole cooling/heating function to stop.

You have a EU spec with a Diesel engine. Your IPC is different, so you might need to look for different ABD settings to show the the correct settings on your IPC.

Oh boy. That's from 6 years ago! As I remember, it is not about HID vs Halogen, this is to allow changing from stock DRL settings. Check this, though it is for a Fusion, most ABD is similar to the 2015-2018 Edge. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true

If you disconnect the battery before removing the seat and reconnect it after returning the seat, then the Airbag light will not come on. If you have ForScan, you will be able to reset the codes even if if the light comes on.

If you want, you can disconnect the connector for the RDU clutch/module which will make it run in full FWD mode. This could help you feel the difference with no load to the rear. I have no experience with any, but I did notice that the case of the inner CV for the TrakMotive is circular, while the GSP looks like the OEM one. Another thing I noticed, the rear OEM Axle part number was superceded once only, unlike the fronts which changed 5 times, at least.

@1004ron I did not have the vibration/shimmy at acceleration, but a bad clunk. But based on your findings with the wear found on the axles, and as I had no other explanation for the clunking I got. Also the fact that the axle part numbers were superceded several times (at least 5), I went ahead and replaced the left side, OEM. The clunking is finally fixed, at least about 80% of it. Also the Edge felt smoother. So I replaced the right side too. Even better. Opening the inner bearings on both axles revealed similar wear. Both sides also had the grease come out in liquid form. Left side: Right side:

No. The motors and wiring would also be different. You might find aftermarket solutions if you really want it, but don't remember seeing anyone doing it here on the Edge.

Following a Google search it seems it was not a rumor, but an actual agreement. BG's press release announcement here. Attached is a Motorcraft leaflet. Parts can be found online, examples: PM-44-A here. PM-30-K here. Chemical_Product_Flyers.pdf

As far as I remember, it can. But you also need to change some settings using ForScan to get them to work correctly.

I got something similar recently on my 2016 Edge Sport. But it was during a U-turn. Turning the engine off then on got everything back working. Checking for codes, I found a C0034:15-28 for Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor. Seems the something messed with the sensor reading during the turn and hence caused all the faults, ABS, ESP, etc. Since they all rely on the sensors to work correctly.