omar302

You still have to worry about access your vehicle with the emergency key inside the lost/stolen fob.

You can try the procedure to add it. If it is compatible it'll work. The old key doesn't have to be unmatched/erased from the old car.

As the battery was changed two years ago I would think it is most probably the battery failed and you need a new one. Check what is the warranty on your battery and if it is still valid take it to the shop for checking and replacement if it is bad.

18 lb.ft That's what the 2015 Service Manual indicates (attached). I wouldn't expect it to have changed for later models. 2015 Ford Edge 2.7EB Oil & Filter Change x.PDF

They are two different fob styles. 2015/2016 used the older style (with 2x 2025 batteries) while 2017+ started using the newer type with a single 2450 battery. My 2016 came with the older type and I added fob of the newer style. You can see them side by side In this post I made at the time.

FYI, in case you didn't already know, the ATC is sold separately, in case the differential is good and you don't want to replace the whole assembly.

As far as I know, A/C systems on Ford vehicles come with the dye already inside the system from the factory. So leaks can be detected faster. This is from the 2015 Service Manual, but I would expect it to still be the same. Fluorescent Dye Leak Detection.pdf

This probably indicates a bad (Active Torque Coupling (ATC) solenoid. This is the front part of the RDU and controls how much the rear axle connects with the front.

Hi, Did you eventually change the rears? If so, how did you find the old ones?

My 2016 already had the Sock intake. Hence I only purchased the exhaust kit and installed several years ago. Just to be clear, the back seat is much better with the fix, it does not heat up after some time, and my back does not heat up compared with ot off, but it is no where as effective as the seat bottom.

The fix posted is only for the intake side so that it can take in cooler air. But the exhaust would remain to the seat back cavity, so eventually the seat back will heat up to a point where it can no longer be cooled by the TED. The best fix is to have both, intake & exhaust routed outside the seat back. However, your Edge is a 2017 model. Midway in 2016 Ford added a "sock" for the intake so it can take in air from under the seat. So your Edge is good on the intake side. To improve your seat back cooling you need the exhaust side. Unfortunately, the guy (Tim) who used to sell those kits doesn't seem to sell them anymore. But I remember some F150 owners making their own fixes using duct tape and tubing. But I couldn't find any searching now. Also, the F150 thread you linked talks about another issue some are facing with their seats, it is an electrical issue, if it happens causes the whole cooling/heating function to stop.

You have a EU spec with a Diesel engine. Your IPC is different, so you might need to look for different ABD settings to show the the correct settings on your IPC.

Oh boy. That's from 6 years ago! As I remember, it is not about HID vs Halogen, this is to allow changing from stock DRL settings. Check this, though it is for a Fusion, most ABD is similar to the 2015-2018 Edge. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true

If you disconnect the battery before removing the seat and reconnect it after returning the seat, then the Airbag light will not come on. If you have ForScan, you will be able to reset the codes even if if the light comes on.

If you want, you can disconnect the connector for the RDU clutch/module which will make it run in full FWD mode. This could help you feel the difference with no load to the rear. I have no experience with any, but I did notice that the case of the inner CV for the TrakMotive is circular, while the GSP looks like the OEM one. Another thing I noticed, the rear OEM Axle part number was superceded once only, unlike the fronts which changed 5 times, at least.