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HyPer

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  1. HyPer
    O.o Yeah, ok, the next vehicle we'll be modding is a 330xi, I'll take a video of the hids we put in there. Just curious though, I've looked at a bunch of the other threads on here about lighting, and from what I've seen, there's alot of myths running around about HIDs and so forth, mostly dealing with color temps, difference between 35w & 50w bulbs, etc. Is everyone using el cheapo $20 HID kits from dirt-floor chinese factories or something??
  2. HyPer
    Wow, 6 seconds is a long time!!! You need to find faster ballasts man, longest we've ever used was 3-4seconds, and those are our cheapest kits.
  3. HyPer
    Well ofcourse we wouldn't use ballasts that required time to warm up, lol.
  4. HyPer

    Apparently I have to have 50 posts to even respond to a personal message.....I'm not going to spam up the forums to build up to that point, so you can contact me via text/mms/call at my work phone: 601-618-3867

    1. HyPer

      HyPer

      Here's what I wrote originally:

       

      "Well, it includes the bulbs, extended wires, ballasts, adapters, & harness to power them. One of our bad habits, is we never think to take pics while installing, but for a clean install, we hid the ballasts and wires.

       

      First we removed spare tire cover, then removed side pockets around spare tire, then removed rear door sill, then rear side panels. The vehicle came with a tow package, so there was already a large power source...

    2. HyPer

      HyPer

      ... available to tap into to fire ballasts with, for a vehicle without though, you would need to run a wire up front to either the junction box, battery, or an unused fuse holder in the fuse box with a 20amp fuse.

       

      We might have to remove the rear area again, thinking of using the vehicle in SQ competition, so we'll be hiding some audio, which will give us a chance to take pics. To route wires thru to the taillights, we cut a small slit in the factory grommet."

  5. HyPer
    Super glue seems to act as a good holder for something that won't see any real world stress or flex, like the puddle lights. But you should still squeeze in a small amount of clear silicone to prevent water seepage. Remember, it's not just gotta be waterproof, but also air proof, as air holds moisture that can condense on the inside of lens when it cools.
  6. HyPer
    Would you care to elaborate? We've done the HIDs in the tails as a test without the LEDs, the brightness is controllable via glare shields placed correctly, but with newly designed lenses in the works, they can be made to run HIDs without blinding people, if that's what you were referring to?
  7. HyPer
    To be bright enough for running lights AND brakes(as usually if you get bright running lights, the brake brightness isn't going to be a big difference), you can get dual stage lights that have 2 separate circuits(versus ebay specials with single circuit and dual brightness). The brightest would most likely be one with multiple side rows that illuminate for the "low beam"(running/parking light), then a large directional Cree LED on the end to illuminate while braking. For turn lights, amber/yellow/red colors are fine & using a single beam 3156 LED with multiple 5mm chips is plenty bright, even for daytime use. For reverse, if you have a backup camera, you can get away with running small LEDs, or LEDs of any variety; but for models without reverse camera, your best bet would be an HID kit mounted back there.
  8. HyPer
    Also, if you're running large circuit boards, you can delete that reflector in the housing, as it's not needed since LEDs are directional. That will give you extra space to work with.
  9. HyPer
    Another project that will hopefully soon surface is a hybrid LED & HID Park/Brake light setup. We haven't started on it yet, but it's such a crazy idea, that I doubt announcing it early will cause any other company to steal the idea. An LED halo shaped to the exterior edge of the taillight for nighttime/running/parking lights, and a red HID brake light bulb.
  10. HyPer
    There's not really a plug 'n play option for dual intensity HIDs, as there isn't enough room in the hole of housing. Hole is only maybe 3/4" in diameter, so really limited. Normally cutting a larger hole wouldn't be an issue, except the back of housing is recessed right where the reverse socket goes, so you're limited in space. Short of doing a projector reverse light, you're pretty much stuck with a single brightness HID as the ultimate lighting option. Now there is a way to do a switching HID, so that it illuminates the ground when backing up, then hit a switch and it illuminates everywhere.....but it requires using a bolt-in adapter plate. We're just getting into that, so it'll be a while before they're hitting the assembly line.
  11. HyPer
    They can for a little while, I tested a 35w(actual draw: 42w)and I pulled the bulb after 2min and the plastic inside of housing had that tacky feel, like the plastic was starting to get soft.
  12. HyPer
    If you want to continue using bulbs, look for ones with extended length. It will place the burn chamber of the bulbs further out and away from the socket, decreasing the amount of heat building up around socket and bulb base.
  13. HyPer
    We used P.A. Electronics Inc's 5mm 3-circuit chips, each DRL housing now has a 5.75w power draw at 12v(4.8w at 14.4v) and outputs approximately 360 lumens(on paper).
  14. HyPer
    I can but we're working on a production model now with a different less expensive(translated: less work involved) retrofit, where we'll mount the leds to strips of PCB. This way we can use different on board controllers to make them dim and brighten. The ones shown above stay full brightness all the time, but wired differently, they could have 3 stages of brightness. A show-only edge will get color changing drls up front that can use white while on public roads, then switch to different colors when at shows.
  15. HyPer
    Yeah, I'll do some tinkering with the camera and edit in the correct looking pics.....if I'm successful lol. Oddly enough, the nighttime pics with the lights off, are the correct color, like the first pic. It's with the shop lights on, that the color goes all whacky.
  16. HyPer
    Can you be more specific? I'm not sure exactly what you're asking. We ran a staggered LED pattern with LEDs mounted on each side of the reflector, so they don't fire directly out, but instead fire against the opposite side of reflector between opposing LEDs. When they're turned off and you look closely, the LED pattern from top to bottom is: left, right, left, right, left, right, etc and so on. Aiming them away from the lens takes out the spotty effect like you see on alot of these DRL kits, where instead of a smooth even vertical light, you end up with little light "dots", aka "hot spots". That was our goal in using the staggered pattern. We used tri-chip LEDs, model 5050 chips. They were a pain to wire up.
  17. HyPer
    Hello there, I figured I would post up some of our mods we've done to this brand new edge. It was bought new this year, it left the dealer lot and went straight to the shop to be torn apart to fix all flaws we could find.....including the incandescent bulbs For some reason, the camera only shows blue in the light when other lights are on, as the above pic is with all shop lights turned off. There's absolutely NO blue in the lights whatsoever, they're a tone of white we call "Metallic White", as it has no yellow like Natural White, and no blue like Cool White. The consistency issue was taken care of so you don't see the spotty look you get from running projector lens LEDs. Instead you end up with a smooth transition of light from one LED to the next.
  18. HyPer
    It should cure it.
  19. HyPer
    We always go by this scale, 5000k is 80% white with 20% yellow, 6000k is 90% white with 10% blue. You gotta make sure you get good quality bulbs, as alot of companies don't make them to spec with tight enough tolerances, like ddm for instance can be up to 15% outta spec. Sun Lighting can be up to 25%. We've noticed alot of ddm 6000k kits are bordering 8000k, we took comparison pics of their 6000k versus actual 6000 Kelvin degree bulbs.
  20. HyPer
    The 2012 we just did them on, we were able to retain all the drl and automatic headlight options with no headlight warnings, and without canbus ballasts or any of those other gizmos. Just used a relay harness with hyperactive digital starter circuits in the ballasts so they would flash correctly with lock/unlock function and all other fun stuff. Then took it to the dealer to see if anyone could tell anything aftermarket had been installed. The only thing they saw after close inspection was the underhood light we made for it.....ran all added wiring inside factory splitloom, and mounted ballasts into factory locations. It helps with these vehicles to add another charging wire between alt and battery directly. With engine warm, idle charge shows 14.11volts. When all lights and radio are kicked on, voltage never drops below 14.08volts.
  21. HyPer
    We just did these on a sponsor vehicle, cut a PCB board to fit the lens and crammed 36leds in there. It's a dark blue that turned out really cool looking, and since they aren't on when vehicle is in motion, then they're 100% legal. I'll post pics soon, also did the drls with 72leds in each housing.
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