wwest

Next time, use cruise control and see if only one "jerky" works. You are describing what I would call nervious foot symptom. The DBW gas pedal sensors are much more sensitive to the slightest movement of your foot, sometimes the downshift itself will result in enough movement of your foot to result in yet another upshift/downshift sequence.

If the sensor were not reasonably functional it would not pass the monitor testing and VSC would be DISABLED.

I posted the links to the benefit of those that might have been mislead by akirby's post regarding recovery from under-over-stearing. As we all already know there are arguments and personal positions on both sides of this FWD VS RWD wintertime condition issue. But there should NEVER be an argument about how to SAFELY recover from loss of directional control, FWD or RWD. Just find and read a few of the automatic stability control systems theory of operation for a detailed description of what would be best in these cases. Recognize that many of the exact functions of VSC, AdvanceTrac, are not humanly possible but the functions give you guidance anyway.

Sorry, my sincerest apologies, looking back, it seems it was akirby who gave us the misleading information.

Just as I said previously, there are NO documents available that are "on-point" with regards to FWD vs RWD in adverse roadbed conditions. The Government quotes I linked are in response to your totally erroneous and/or misleading, DANGEROUSLY misleading, information as to how to best recover from overstearing/skidding or understearing/plowing. h There is no ABS conspiracy, just evolutionary, technologically enabled, design advancements. ABS..rear only ABS...three channel. ABS...four channel Then TC, Next, VSC Then refinements, EBD, BA, F/awd(TC), virtual LSD(TC) Now...VDIM Next...?? As in very soon DFI will be implemented across the board.

http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/safevehicle...brochure_en.pdf Transport Canada: Safe winter driving. http://www.syracuse.com/weather/snow/stories/driving.html National Safety Council. https://www.nysdot.gov/transportation-partn...for%20web_0.pdf New York State DOT hhhh

And as near as I can tell the engineers have pretty much solved the Porsche "tail-out" problem with the rear suspension geometry of the new water cooled 911 series. Of course having the C4 (R/awd) certainly helps my confidence level tremendously, not to mention PSM.

"...burden of proof.." is on me... No, I have NOTHING to prove, you either have an open or logical mind or you don't. All I expect to accomplish is to alert "those" to the dangers and therefore prevent a few accidents. I did search once again for "on-point" documentation and not surprisingly, found NONE. "On-point" being FWD vs RWD safety in adverse roadbed conditions. If I remember correctly the ABS vs non-ABS statistical information I quoted was provided by the National Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. And I will make you a bet that within just a few years ABS will be modified such that it does NOT activate unless VSC first indicates the need. At that point there will be no question of the positive safety factor of ABS.

So, now, how about the rest of us wait for YOU to provide links to the specific conditions of concern relating to the safety of FWD vs RWD. Statistics, documents, EXPERT information of any type or source.

Yet another "If you don't like the message, then by all means KILL the messenger..!!" Or as the politicians do... If you can't argue, refute, the facts, then denigrate the person.

Poor advice, maybe even DEADLY advice. The stearing wheel rotational position sensor is used by the stability control system. With a defective sensor the system may think you are trying to turn when you are not thereby throwing the vehicle out of control.

"...The AWD system is active all the time..." No, NO, NOT...!! The AWD system is "enabled" at all times and will therefore quickly engage the rear driveline should conditions warrant. Out here in the public a vehicle that can have the front driveline locked into synchronization with the rear (or vice versa), as in a locked transfer case or locked center diff'l, are mostly referred to as "part-time" 4WD or even 4X4, but this latter term is often used to refer to a vehicle with an actual transfer case and low gearing. These are referred to as "part-time" systems because they CANNOT be driven on a tractive surface in 4WD mode. In any case there is, can be, NO FULL-TIME AWD or 4WD of ANY flavor. When driving on a highly tractive surface there MUST BE mechanical provisions to prevent tire scrubbing and/or driveline windup. Most of the time the provision chosen is to simply not have the vehicle in AWD except when it is necessary, needed, and in conditions that will not result in damage to the driveline. I will grant you that there exists in the marketplace at least one FULL-TIME 4WD system. The system I speak of is that used by Toyota in the Highlander, Sienna, and the RX330 (if not in reality the entire RX series post 2000). These vehicles have three fully open diff'ls, front, center, and rear, and will deliver equal torque to all four wheels regardless of wheel slippage. Comprising a totally useless and non-functional ONE-WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM since any ONE wheel losing traction will limit the torque level. Were it not for TC being used to sustain a "high" level of engine torque via braking of the slipping wheel, while simultaneously dethrottling the engine, there would be no usefull functionality at all for this system. Due to public outcry these vehicles are now equipped with a control to disable TC. "...may be abused.." Yes, about as often as a salespersons not long ago stating that ABS helps you stop quicker or in a shorter distance. "..it employs a center differential.." Almost NEVER...! Mostly some sort of PTO/PTU and a rubber bandish, "soft" controlled coupling to the rear driveline. "...AWD cannot be disengaged.." Poor wording.. AWD is disengaged the MAJORITY of the time but always remains ENABLED. "...and the center differential cannot be locked.." According to the material supplied by FORD if/when the AWD system applies full voltage to the rear electromechanical driveline clutch the effect will be the same as locking a center diff'l, were it to have one.

Sorry, just couldn't leave the untruths lay.

Late back in the last century, late 80's, automotive A/C engineers began working on the issue of alleviating the various discomforts of automotive A/C, TOO COLD airflow, blower noise, etc. The 1990 Lexus LS400 is a showcase for just how successful they were. Many of the features they used have now been adopted pretty much across the board for automatic climate control systems. There is no longer a rapid cooldown, automatic MAX A/C mode, for quick cabin cooldown after setting out closed up in the sun on a HOT day. For a rapid cooldown you MUST put the system in MAX cooling mode and HIGH blower speed MANUALLY, put the system in FRESH, manual over-ride, and lower the rear windows slightly. It remains a mystery to me as to why the majority of these modern systems automatically switch, initially switch, into RECIRCULATE in this situation. Then advising the driver that a quicker cooldown can be more readily attained by lowering the rear windows.....?? Stupid, UTTERLY STUPID...!! Once the HOT cabin atmosphere is exhausted, a matter of just a few moments, roll the windows up, NOW put the system in recirculate, and lower the blower speed to your sound comfort level, lower is now BETTER. The longer the air takes to flow through the cooling evaporator the more it will be cooled. Having the system in MAX cooling will bypass the REHEAT/REMIX cooled airflow mode and you might now begin to be discomforted by the COLDNESS of the system airflow. But I would suggest leaving the system in MAX cooling until most of the interior surfaces, the remaining sources of RADIANT heating of/to your body, are also cooled to a more comfortable level. I have modifications to ALL of my cars such that the A/C compressor clutch circuit can be opened throughout the winter months and a water flow shutoff valve so that hot water flow to the heater core can be blocked during the times the A/C might be of use for cooling purposes. Slight improvement in FE also results as the A/C system's efficiency is improved significantly.

You're obviously not looking hard enough. At the bottom inside of one of the rear quarter panels you will find an "exhauster port" for allowing cabin air "flow-through/outflow". In the exhauster port will be a light rubber reverse airflow blocking "flap-valve". Removing that flap valve will result in somewhat freer flow of exhausting REAR airflow and that will help to alleviate some of the helicopter "noise". The action of the flap valve seems to somehow re-enforce the passenger cabin's rear volume resonance effects.

ALL vehiclles with a large volume to the rear of the rear windows will act as a LOW frequency whistle... On our '68 station wagon we could lower the rear tailgate glass just a tiny bit and eliminate the helicopter sound effects.

My "mission" here is to inform and educate those in our audience with an open mind. Save a few lives even. Insofar as I can see that has now been accomplished.

Most modern day vehicles with TC and VSC (stability control) will INSTANTLY, pre-emptively, dethrottle the engine if you attempt a TIGHT turn while accelerating moderately or rapidly in a low gear ratio.

Yes, my daily driver is a F/awd '01 RX300. I cannot truly claim the full "awd" aspect (TC still works) since the VC has apparently now failed at ~70,000 miles. My RX runs on nice and quiet, comfortably riding, summer use tires all year around but with a set of tire chains always on board to be installed on the REAR in case of need. Both sets in winter.

Since engine compression braking on a FWD or F/awd can turn deadly so very quickly it is unlikely that the downshifting you are experiencing is for that "cause". More likely it is for "extending fuel cut" during coastdoown periods when the engine might actually "stall" if the RPM's aren't kept high enough with the fuel flow off for economy. Most modern day FWD and F/awd vehicles will NOT downshift to a level that would result in a substantial level of engine compression braking absent being "triggered" by actual brake application.

Didn't I read somewhere that water cooling was added to prevent the PTO/PTU from over-heating..??

Read up on the Audi I4 TFSI engine to understand just how many years behind the times Ford engineering happens to be. And now they have a new SuperCharged V6 TFSI engine. Ford TWINFORCE.. Couldn't restart the HP race so it's now called EcoBOOST. SHAM...!!

Puzzled by the "no" answers... Yes, you can turn you Edge into a traditional "part-time" 4WD system by simply applying a constant voltage to the rear driveline solenoid. You could even convert it to a much more safe RWD system (vs the current F/awd system) by dropping a front halfshaft at the same time. Just be careful not to run in 4WD mode except on low traction surfaces otherwise driveline "windup" will shorten the life of the main components, PTU/PTO and rear clutch, significantly.

"..(money is not an issue)..." "Canada" For FWD "based" SUV's the only one you should be considering is the Acura RDX.