2011edgese

Double post

 

I like the 2011 mostly because the 3.5 duratec is a rock solid engine. The main reason I purchased the 2011 for my wife and I have been nothing but happy since. No more breakdown worries like I am still dealing with on her truck that sits and acts like the world largest gravitational force holding the street in place.[/quote

 

are these known to be reliable motors? This my second American car. First one was a Saturn. Hehe. Got rid of it since it was abandoned. But it was very reliable.

Ok... the hard code just cleared. Took 5 hours of driving here and there.

My wife's 2011 needs plugs now. Seeing yours makes me want to get at it. I will work on it next and make another MG production for your enjoyment.

hehe. Its not that bad to do it. Link to the video when you make it.

91,540 miles. Hahaha.. ya, i thought of you when i saw it umplugged. I thought " it will fail soon."

One more thing. Hardest about doing these plugs was removing the booter hose from the rear and moving all the wires to make room to pull it out without breaking anything. Other than that. . It wasn't that bad. I think i could do it under 40 minutes next time since I'm familiar now.

From left to right. 123456

also makes total sense. This car had a loss of power at 4000rpm around 55 to 60mph. Uphill mostly. It was brief but you could feel it,but once it left around 4400rpm it would fire all 6 cylinders smooth. I put a new battery and it fixed that issue. I couldn't figure why though. Then llooking at the old plug gap, it makes sense. The gap should be around .050. But these old ones are aroung .065 to .075. Just worn out. Longer gap, weaker spark. Specially with a tired battery.

Heres a pic of alll the plugs. Engine is running healthy. Number 4 cylinder has a slight dark carbon on it. When i tried to remove the stuck boot on it and failed, i put it back but the coil spring was not aligned properly, and it didnt fire for s minute or so. So it almost fouled the plug. Removing the coil and setting the sprint straight and plugging it in again solved that issue.

opps.left the pcv hose unplugged. That's the cel trigger. I imagine its got to be driven for a while for the hard codes to clear. Other than that. .. its smoother. Im still waiting for the k n N filter. Should be here today.

Just got the cel light on. Codes p2195 and p2197. Oxygen sensor signal biased/ stuck lean Bank1 sensor 1. And bank2 sensor 1.

hopefully it clears itself. They are permanent codes.

Ok. Finished. Took me 1 hour 30 min. Taking the air intake is a bit hard. Nothing crazy. . But medium hard i think. Pulling it out was not fun, all the electrical lines are in the way. You have to unclip a few of them. But once its out, the plugs are easy to get. And i got lucky. . Non of the boots stuck in the rear! Thank god! It fired up well and going on a drive. Also. .. Theres a bolt under the throttle body that holds the whole intake. I had to look carefully to locate it.

You can fish them out by using a hooked end of a coat hanger and then pulling up. worked in the past for me on another vehicle. I would however replace it if it is damaged in anyway. Also make sure you use electrical grease to keep this from happening again. It also sounds like you went more than 90k on the plugs. I am guilty as charged on this also and the gaps were extreme when they were replaced at 150k miles. This in turn caused an O2 sensor to fail so change them at 90K and you will be good. I am currently getting ready to make a video on sparkplug removal and installation on a 2011 Ford Edge Limited. This should help others in the future. I would say also I am going to replace the gasket on the intake as I do not like reusing gaskets. Just my choice. As it will be yours. Oh get a PCV while you are at it as the the little bugger is under the intake and this is the best time to swap it out.

 

yup.. fishing is the trick. Im doing the 3 hard ones today. Air intake will come off. Im going to reuse everything if i can. Why did you say change the pcv? Does that go bad early? Or just that is easy to change while everything is out?

I tried again and this time i used a thin metal wire to fish it down and hook it with a loop and pulled it out. It worked! Managed to get the 3 front plugs. Now tomorrow ill try the rear plugs. The air plenum needs to come off. Anyone got a diagram or a idea how hard it is? Im just going to go for it and hope for the best. Also have a K n N filter coming in tomorrow. Hopefuly its worth the money. Btw.... the factory plugs had a big gap. Id say its around .065 to .070, the manual calls for. 050. The plugs i got were factory and pre gapped. Actualy. . You can't gap them. So i think the factory plugs just wore down causing a larger gap. I had a musfire at 60mph at around 4000 rpm. Loss of power ay that spot. And slight pinging. Just changing the 3 plugs ans new battery made a huge difference. Its running real good.

Thxs! Im familiar with spark plugs procedures. First time i have a ignition coil boot stick to the plug. I'm going to give it another shot maybe today.

Hey, while I have the attention of a couple of you guys, can I ask another question? Why can't I get the hazards to work on this damn thing? I see the "button", but it does not press/release like a button. Nor does it respond to touch. What gives?

broken switch? My best guess.

I just put a battery in my 90k 2011 edge. It didn't strand me. Its over 4 years old. It was 540 cca. And noticed my windows would go up slower than usual after 15 minutes on accessory . I put a meter and it has a good charge. But load test and it drops to 7 volts. So to be on the safe side, i just bought a 850 cca. From Oreilly. 120$. Now it starts up fast! And load test and it does not drop below 11v. Once any car battery hits 4 years, its best to replace it. My friends 2009 xterra with 65k miles on it finally gave up and stranded. Agonist 6years. Not bad. Stranded.. but 6years not bad.

Then it must be the pet raccoons body slamming into the Edge in preparation for Wrestlemania!

 

Maybe someone tried to hack into the Edge with some sort of rudimentary tool? An implosion of some sort (can't think of a reason why)? I looked on my driverside door, no issues.

i was suspecting Hulk Hogan preping for a come back on his door too.

Guys.. give the electrical cleaner a shot. Mines been good for weeks again. I may spray the death out of it and manualy lube the latches to prevent wd40 from contaminating the electronic contact that's failing.

Lol. 110$ for air freshner advice.

I notice my 2011 whistles too. Ill look into it.

Anyone have this issue? I tried changing the plugs yesterday, luckily i just tried the easy one forest before i remove the air intake to reach the back. Well... when I pulled it, the coul boot stayed withbthe plug. There was a spring on top of it, i just plugged the coil back on and luckily it fired up fine. Do i stopped there. How would you guys approach this? Wd40? Long fliers? Coat hanger? Im scared i will tear it. Im aware you can buy the boot online but ud like to save them. Also. . What was that spring thing on top of the boot? Is it just a contact of current? Id imagine that's the purpose. Anyone changed the plugs and how long did it take you? I think all of the plug boits will be frozen. I have 91k miles and original plugs.

Lol. Spraying the keyhole only helped for 3 days.came back. Did my oldprocedure of spraying keyhole and latch with a lot of the cleaner. It's been gone for two days total again

Double post

You are exactly right! I took the car to a local brake/repair shop and he showed me where the right front rotor was causing the noise problem. The rotor would normally show a face that was worn and silver in color. Only about half the face was worn clean (the outer half), the inner half was rusted and apparently causing the noise issue. The inner rotor was wearing normally. I took the car back to the Ford dealer and showed what the local mechanic had found and he was astonished. He said he would call the auto parts store and get a new one as well as a new pad. After the new rotor is installed the Ford dealership will never see me again. They charged me almost twice what the local shop would charge and tied my car up for over two weeks time over the course of 4 visits. Hopefully the 5th will be the last.

I hate dealers.lol. find a good independent shop you can trust over time. Unfortunately it's hard to find a decent shop that won't rip you off.

Did you have the same issue? I'm almost 90% positive that they already bled it, but need to check. They've done A LOT of work to my car.

Don't have this issue but when you have mushy pedal and everything has been replaced and bled, then I'd the abd pump hasn't been bleed properly with a scanner then chances are that there is air in there. It cost money to have the scanner plugged in and bled but might be worth it in your case to eliminate that possibility.

On a prior car, I had 3 rebuilt brake master cylinders that were faulty out the box. That was my issue.

Good post. someone said to spray wd 40 because it work, not the case.lol