2011edgese

Does it sound like this? (Scotty shows in this Youtube video just how easy they are to change).

https://youtu.be/Ot_CgAjyCFQu

Dang.. its a dead link. What title should i search on yt?

Ya.. i used to work on cars long ago. I remember cv joints just getting noisy and developing some play. But never saw on break off. Crossing my fingers. But then again... the cars were the classic Alfa Romeos. Not sure how the cv joints are build now. Anyone care to give your opinion on driving this thing longer? A quick google search gave me a prive of about 500 to 600$ price for the job. Anyone know if thats accurate?

Im experiencing the same. 2011 edge se. Turning or u turns makes a clicking metallic noise. Driving straight is fine. Im suspecting the axle or cv joint on the front right. How much has the dealer charged for this replacement? And can it be driving even though the noise is there? Its my daily driver and no performance issues except for the click noise.

Akirby, thats what im guessing too. Any idea how much the dealer charges? Just a rough estimate. Also.. what will happen if i just drive it? Its smooth and quiet straigh and on gently turns. Will it do damage if i let it go a few months?

Edgedup.... i had great success with electrical cleaner. Don't spray wd4 or any lube. Give it a shot again.

Also... the sharper the turn.. the more clickity it gets. Ot has 110k miles and out of warranty.

Hi guys.... still love the car. Its been good to me with no issues but the ajar we all have. But for the first time its developed a kind of platicky mettalic clicking noise when i make a left or right turn. Its coming from the front right wheel. I suspected maybe the wheel bearing but my local oil shop guy drove it and heard it and thinks its a axle issue. You only heart it with the window down. But its audible outside for sure. Anyone had axle issues? What do you guys think? The guy said to keep driving until it gets louder or constantly makes the noise. Currently the noise is absence when driven straight. Its just while making turns. Clues? Thxs!

Id say have them rebalance them. A lot of times the have the new guy do these jobs. If that don't work. .. have them replaced.

Double post.

Dang it! it came back! Hehe. Well... i guess straight water don't work for long. I ended up spreading the last last bit of electrical cleaner on the latch area. Went away instantly. Oh well.....

Glad to report that is still working today.

Also. .. that's why i didn't use the soap water settingm don't want to wash away the window regulator grease off. And kept it to about 15 seconds.

Yup... it crossed my mind about water not being the best solution but I figured when it rains water will get in there here and there so I just went ahead and did it. And so far its cured. The can of electrical cleaner would work also in those holes but yeah I don't think it will get everything like a high pressure water line

Yup... it crossed my mind about water not being the best solution but I figured when it rains water will get in there here and there so I just went ahead and did it. And so far its cured. The can of electrical cleaner would work also in those holes but yeah I don't think it will get everything like a high pressure water line

Ok guys. Heres another solution that is the easiest by far! I did this last Friday and is been 3 days now and my sensor is working fine. If you recall I suggested to spray electrical cleaner on the latch and it's a good solution but it does not work for everyone. Although i think the ones that it does not work is because they are not spraying enough and not in the right spot. Ok..... my drivers side for the got fixed with the electrical spray and its been good for 3 months now. But. My passenger side is not working like the drivers side. It keeps coming back for some reason. So. ... to the easiest solution! Go to the car wash and put the spray on rinse. You can try with soap rinse but i just happened to use just the rinse setting. Now. ... make sure the doors are locked. Now. ... pull the door handle all the way out like you are opening the door. And aim the powerful water jet to the openings that get exposed when you hold the door handle out. Just spray those openening so the water goes in and flushes the mechanism. Just hold it there for a good 20 second moving the angle of spray a little too make sure the water hits the sensor and penetrates it. If you rinse it well your sensor should work! Again. ... its 3 days and no sensor problem for me! Give this a shot everyone and report back! No need to take the door apart or anything. .. just hold the handle out and spray into those openings that you see! Good luck! Still like my edge! Hell... spray it longer than 20 seconds!

2nd time around. Dripped it off. Confirmed the booster. Replaced. No charge. Feels good.

Definitely shop around. Some dealers are very accommodating. Look at Ford AND Lincoln stores.

I will. Thxs for the advice.

I thought this was a cost free repair? Dealer wants 150$ for putting their feet on the pedal and hear the hiss nose and feel the typical hard pedal symptom. I didn't leave the car... ill call ford and see if they are wrong. Some people have gotten done free of charge here. Wth?

Had anyone gotten it done free of charge? Even the letter sent home says its free. I only counted about 2 Peple here who said it was free of charge of anything.

 

You'll pay the diag fee only if the problem turns out to be something else. That's always a possibility, however remote it may be.[/quote

]

 

i was hoping for that, didn't happen. Guy said "150$ flat diagnostic fee" so i told him thay some dealers didn't charge. He said for them is a diagnostic fee. So i told him i was in the wrong dealer and thanked him for the info. I left politely. So now I'm wondering what's my next step. .. im planning on calling another ford dealer and ask them to charge the fee is is something else like you said. You think that's a good idea?

Hey guys, booster is failing .obviously a internal tear by all the symptoms. I checked the booster valve, its good. Master is good aswell. Had another tech check it , said it was 100% the booster. So i went to the dealer and told them is got a bad booster. They said it's on the extended warranty but will charge 150$ for diagnostics. Lol.... I already paid 100$ for a oil change and detail with a diagnostic on the hard brake pedal from my regular independent shop. I told the dealer this and they said they can't go by another shops diagnostic and they will charge 150$. Booster isn't complicated to diagnose when its hissing like arabid snake everytime you press it and then gets hard. Hehe. Anyways. ... i left the dealer and will call another ford dealer to see if they will just swap it out while not charging for what i already know. Any advice or dies everyone pay the diagnostic fee. If i remember, some got charged and others did not. Is it all really on the dealer you go to? Will calling ford directly like some do help the dealer waive the diagnostic fee?

Just a little update. Had new tires put in, new battery, KnN air filter and new plugs and oil change. Car is running great!

Ok so no alarm going off after I sprayed, but that could be just coincidence. However now my door ajar sensor is back, but not as bad as it originally was before ever spraying. Too much spray? I can't win. Saw the recall...I was SO hoping it was for an 11 Edge door sensor.

that's how it is. It will get better with time. Give it 3 days and it gets better. That's what happens to me. I spray and the light comes back the next. Then the next day is gone. Status gone for a while. The spray did something to your alarm, not a coincidence. And no, i don't think you can spray to much. I always have to spray almost the whole can. Remember. .. some of the fluid needs to hit the contact that is falling, and spraying blindly causes most of the fluid to get wasted . That's why you have to spray a ton.

You hit a road block of knowledge. I'll keep a sure out on any info i can gather and relay it to you if any comes.

 

Stop it already!

XD