2011edgese

Okay just wrapped up the job. I want to point out a few things. If you check up the driver side about 1. So you can squeeze underneath to get to the drain bolt the car will empty almost exactly 4 quarts. So I bought a box of 12 QT. Now I notice there's a bottom cover that's got to come off to access the bolt, like a wind shield to give it more aerodynamic I guess. It was easy to remove but it would have made the job easier if it didn't exist, how important is that covered by the way. So the first drain gave me four chords I plugged it and filled it for courts. Drove it for 30 miles. And did the drain and added another four quarts, then I let it sit in the driveway and I ran it through the gears for 20 minutes while holding the brake and giving it a little bit of gas to 1500 RPMs each gear shift. I drained it and refilled it again 4qts. What do you guys think

Good info! Do you by any chance how much drains out? 3.5 qt? 4qt?

On 12/7/2018 at 10:05 PM, WWWPerfA_ZN0W said:

3x is the requirement in the factory manual.  4x is about the most practical to do a near complete exchange.  You have to get the torque converter working to get the fluid pumped out of the TC.  So a minimum of a couple of minutes in D while parked on level ground will let that happen.  No need to drive.  Parking brake engaged and foot on brake pedal during that time of course.  Do not attempt on jacks or jackstands.  Only all 4 on the ground, preferably wheels chocked too.

 

Advise getting the fluid to at least 100F or so before the first drain/fill to  help keep contaminants in suspension, but alao to open the bypass valve.  Between 100F and 180F is ideal so the bypass valve is open the whole time you are doing the drain/fills.

 

As mentioned, you can also do a single drain/fill at 3 (or 4) successive oil changes.  Will allow the detergents in the new fluid to do their thing in between, and time to assess the impact of new fluid.  But done best if you are putting in the same brand of fluid as is in the trans atm.  So if OEM, Motorcraft LV is the right choice for this "every oil change" process.  While all LV license products SHOULD be compatible, IDK if it can be guaranteed.  Your call to make though.

Good info! One question, what bypass valve are you talking about? And the filling is done where the dip stick is supposed to be?correct? And finally,  is that own fluid sold at Oreilly, AutoZone or is this just dealer?

Just hit 69900 miles. Absolutely no issues with my 2015 edge titanium FWD 2.0 . Love the car. My question is, I want to do a drain and fill instead of a flush since flushas can lead to issues. I am planning on doing it 3 times so I reach 80% changed in fluid. My question is, DO you have to drive the car for several miles between the drain and fill? And if so, what's the most minimum miles to get the fluid to blend well with the torque  converter converter fluid? I've researched and some say 100 miles and others 3000 miles like every oil change. And even read that some just sit in the car and put the car in all the gears for a few seconds up and down for a minute or so and then redrain and refill. What's your opinion? Oh yeah... will be measuring what comes out so I can put exactly the same amount t in since there's no dip stick and don't want to remove the wheel to see the fill bolt. 

Thxs. That was for a 2011 but managed to navigate to 2015. And iys actually cheaper, 16$. Might order them. I ended up buffing by hand for 1 hout amd it actually came.out better than the drill. I think the plastic polisher compound was not beimg used with the proper speed. Ill post a pic soon.

IwRBB... thxs! I managed to pull from the front and then pull the back. Gotta be carefull since its really on there good. But anyways, i buffed and buffed with plastic and couldnt get it to shine like the center console. I am stopping and leaving it. Bit since its rather easy to pop off, might be just better in bjying a replacement. What would yoilu call that piece? Is it a bezel?

I think you need to just start with a more aggressive material, then work your way up to less aggressive stuff. It's like you are trying to remove 40 grit sanding scratches with 2000 grit paper.

 

If you started with 220, to moved onto 320, then 400, then 600, then 800, then hit it with polish, you'd be done in about 20 minutes. Pop the piece out of the door and wet sand it. Don;t move onto the next grit until you removed all the scratches from the coarser grit.

I have a little experience wet sanding. I actually used 1500 to get the deep scratches off. Then when 2000 and finally 3000. Now im polishing it. But i thing its the heat I am missing from the orbital. My drill only goes 650 rpm. Is it easy to pop it out btw? Which corner.should i try to lift?

Hehe... its taking on forever! Spent about 2hours going at it again. By drill and hand using plastic scratch remover.i think my drill is too slow. Its a 650rpm device. Heres a pic, and if anyone has done this with success..... pls share what u used.

Geez.. wondering if I got spoiled with tue regular 3.5 v6 no ecoboost. Seems like if i stop on the gas from stand still, theres like almost half a aecond delay before it moves. Anyone else noticed this? I will try putting it on S just out of curiosity.

Lildisco... good explaination. Oil catch can makes sense. Might consider it. I have also read her i think, on this forum.... that running the car at 100mph once in a while will clean the valbe buildup. Any thoughts on that?

Oh! Havent tried that. Always though S was for the shifter padel in which do feel more responssive. Ill give it a try.

Ahh ok. Ill keep it on mind.

My input. Had a 2011 v6 no turbo for almost 5yrs. Traded it in for 2015 2.0 ecoboost. Miss the deeper sound of the v6.[]. But like the slight wistle turbo sound when you drive by a wall that sound reflects off. Now.. my observations. V6 is VERY responsive on the throttle, but always found it not so impressive over passing cars at 65mph and above. Seems like not a 285hp engine, im guessing its the weight? 2.0 ecoboost is opposite. Not responssive at take off, very sluggish for my taste but once its going, its very peppy. And feels a bit stronger at over passing. Thats my observations.

What have you guys done to minimize the carbon buildup? I bought a used 2015 titanium with 36k. Noticed the tail pipes cooked with blackness. Ivr noticed this on all thr ecoboost engines, thus i figured its normal. I ended up polishing the blackness off amd keeping a eye. PRIOR 2011 edge base model had whistle clean pipes. [6 cyl no ecoboost]

Now... heres the power button trim. This one MUST be a different material. Whilr wet sanding, a little black was visible on the water.But sanded down the same as the console. But, putting the drill to polish it with Scratch X has been not been forgiving in time! Its taking at least 6 times longer to get a shine going. Heres a pic after about 2 hours of drilling. I stopped since the battery died on the drill. Compared to the center console, the console took 2 hours 30 min to do the whole thing. Any tips?

Center console I used Meguiars Scratch X 2.0. BUT... after i sanded the whole thing with 2000 grit sand paper. Came out REAL nice. Also used a drill with a polishing pad thingy.

Well... my used trade in for my 2011 edge has a beautiful interior. But sadly the center console had scratches everywhere. Also all the shiny door power window trims had some minor scratches. I found a great solutiom for the center console but the window switch trim must be a different material, I am having a hard time getting it to shine. Ill post pics so you see the before amd after. As you can see, center is nice but power window needs more elbow grease. Has anyone found a good solution for the power window trim?

Yep I constantly use the word legal because I have prescription glasses that I need to use to drive a night and I told him it's just a disgrace how I got treated with the real cheap after-market one and how it ruined my whole purchase. After that they said you're right and we will take care of it. So I just picked up the car and it's 100% better, what a difference I'm very happy now

Ok, i b*tched at them when i got there. Just told them the truth how its ruined my purchase. The agreed to cover it. Buy still left a bad taste.

Lol i did. I told them its bull shit with cheap windshields and expect something either equal or better. They said they can cover some of the cost since it will be a oem and the bought car is used with no extended warranty. It the 36k is done for. no agreememt was made with oem so its a "As Is sale". So it will cost 80$ and oem will be put in by carlite. Takes me 1h 30m with trafficto get their each trip, just going to get it done. Had a better experience with my first ford dealer. But wont complaint, they filled up the tank 2 times already for these visits i drove into. Gotta give them credit for that.

Heu guys, just swapped out my 2011 for a 2015 titanium. Love the car but 1 problem. When bough, there was a bubble patterm on the line of sight on the wimdshield. I saw it before buying it but thought it was adhessive from the sales sticker. Turned out to be a lamination issue according to the dealer since i couldnt get it off. I was under the 3 day return policy this dealer offers and almost returned it but decided not too since i like the car and the dealer said "Dont worry, we will replace the window no charge." So, the 3 day return came and went and the dealer changed the windshield. To my dissapointment, they threw in a non oem made by Acoustech. And worst of all, it has verticle distortion ripple right in the line of sight. So the cars jiggle as i move a head left a right just slightly. Its gives me a sick motion sickness feeling. Specially at night,tail lights dance all over! So... called them and told them anout it, this is tbeir lame excuse through a voicemail they left " oh... drive it by, must likely needs a cleaning." Bubahahaha! So i called them back and being frustrated told the general sales mamager that left the message that his bullshit is not valid with me since I am a former tech. The guy apologized and said they need to see it because he or the shop have NEVER heard of a wavy windshield. Jeebus.... lol. So im heading today for them to "cleam it". This my 3rd trip down there for this issue. Also, legally to drive at night i need glasses. So putting my glasses on at night with a heavy prescription has it own fun house effect, now imagine adding ripples. Not a fun ride. Sickening.

Question is

1: Acoustech a cheap brand?

2: how should i approach the dealer besides being rude

3: how can i make sure the window they put has the soumd dampening technology?

4: Will the dealer provide proof its a oem?

5:should i call corporate to report this amd have them talk to the dealer to make sure they do use OEM?

Thanks guys, like the car alot but its turning into a nightmare with the dealer I am dealing with.

Now cross my fingers with ecoboost. Ill try to pay it in 2 yrs hobestly then finally buy a brand new one IF i dont go sour wuth this one. Its fwd so no psu leaks. They tried to offer a awd, i refused it.

They will just auction it off.

I thought of it. I told them it has a rough idle and i dont want to spend more on fixing it. Didn't mention anything else. They looked at it, impressed by the straight panels. Almost zero dents. And very anu1 about the inside being clean. Hehe. So the said no more than 3k. Didn't want them to further inspect it so i figured to recover with the other car price. It was listed at 25.8k.

Im thinking they will throw a pump in amd resel fir 7k. There's a few over 140k 2011 edges se that go between 6 to 8k.

Absolutely did the right thing. Gotta weigh your options when looking at all that. Great deal on tge 2915, put up some pics, and enjoy! I would strongky advocate getting ford premiumcare when you can, seeing it is an ecoboost motor, particularly if you do anthing other than mostly highway driving.

Thxs for the info and help! I know what you mean about the ecoboost. My plan is to pay it off fully within 2 years hopefully. And rely on the 60 powertrain warranty. Once its close I will see if i get the extended warranty if i keep it as long as the 2011 edge. But i love it, doesnt sound like a v6 though... kinda miss that but it feels as powerfull.

I was forced to make the move asap simce the car waa still very drivable but with a rough idle. It was near a front brake job, tailpipe rotting, power steering has a minor leak. Left turn Blinker wouldnt spring back. Ac wasmt as cold. Tranny had the notorious once in a while "bang!". All still tolerable amd very drivable. Bit couldnt justify near 2 grand.