hilokamper

I saw that Video before I started my Replacement. I didn't see where she mentions anything about calibration / relearn. Her's is an older model the SAS module is a different # and connects different than mine did (mine snaps into the back of the Clock spring and is mounted as a 1 piece unit). Since Forscan doesnt have any procedures to so for my Year, I'm guessing it still does not require. Just wanted to be sure I'm not missing it in forscan. Still searching why I'm getting DTC's I've had a few white knuckle experiences in the last few weeks driving with all this rain in South Florida.

2011 Edge Limited (72k MILES) Replaced SAS (Steering Angle Sensor) was getting Code P193C. Cleared code with Forscan (had to use reset all adaptions to clear) no warning lights (DTC) until I restarted car. Upon Restart all the same warning lights came back on BUT I'm not getting any DTC's showing up in Forscan. I'm using latest Forscan software update. Warning Lights I'm getting are: Brake, ABS, Stability Control, Stability Control Off at the bottom of dash. PLUS the warning popup on the left side: "Service Advance Trac, Check Brake system. Anything I can do to pull more DTC codes ? also do I need to do a SAS calibration since I replaced the Angle Sensor ? I Can't see anything in Forscan to do it (although I've seen on a Ford Forum that Forscan can do it on Superduty trucks.) If I had a bad Wheel Sensor or Cracked Tone ring wouldn't I get DTC codes in Forscan relating to the individual issue ?

Best tool for me is the backside of my hand (knuckle side up) Paper towels / lint cloth on top of backside. Makes getting the angle easy to clean.

Installed a week ago. After 300 plus miles City driving have to say this is a sweet upgrade. Modulation is way better than stock. I'm impressed with the quality for the money & Yes the Rotors are Made in China. NOTE: this is for a 2011 Generation 1.5 (Gen 1.0 does not need the retracting tool I had to use) It took me twice as long to install as I was anticipating (freaking 10 hours) with only minor issues (removing 1 rotor retaining screw on rear that broke my T40 Torx bit & retracting the pistons in the rear calipers that took too much time). I spent at least 1 hour of that time repositioning Jack & jack stands for each wheel (4 post lift I wish !). Working on the ground sucks (even more so when your 60 plus). Sources: JC Whitney $ 333.00 delivered to my door 4 days after placing order (their process with a Credit card is a pain & Chase flagged it....Use paypal I understand no issues that way) Powerstop Z23 Evolution Sport K5452 Front And Rear Brake Disc and Pad Kit, Cross-drilled and Slotted disc, Carbon Fiber Ceramic Pads, 4-wheel set Essential Tools: Caliper Retracting tool kit $ 19.99 Delivered (Amazon) this is a better kit that harbor freight has for $ 45.00 - 60.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (already had a large bottle I've been using for years don't remember cost) but I learned the hard way that standard stuff like Permatex Ultra caliper lube can't take the extreme heat (Motorhome going down 8% grade lessons).

Wheel Bearings ?

Thanks WWWPerfA_ZN0W for the information. Replaced all 4 corners. This is the first Vehicle I can remember that had different size fasteners for caliper brackets & Caliper Slide bolts. Hugh difference between the front & rears on the Edge.

These "Clips" were in the box with the front pads (Powerstop Z23). For the life of me I can't figure where they were suppose to go. The Factory stock Brakes had no such clips. What are they and where were they Suppose to go ?

Thank you. This is the verification I needed, I'm going with the Specifications you posted. Hope others can benefit from your information as there have been previous post that do not match the specifications you posted for the rears. Your FSM specifications are more in alight to changes from Gen 1.0 to 1.5.

The Front torque specifications match What i have found from various sources. It's the rear torque Specifications for the Brake caliper anchor plate bolts & Brake caliper guide pin bolts that I have encountered differences with. Your numbers I have not seen before. Please advise where you received this information. I have researched and seen the Caliper Anchor bolts as low as 49 ft Lbs and as high as 98 ft Lbs. I look at this as falling off or breaking off. I just want to do it right the first time. This is the first vehicle since 1978 that I have not purchased a Factory bench manual specific to year and Model. Thanks for your help.

Will be replacing all Rotors & Pads (Powerstop Z23 K5452) this week. What are the correct Torque Specifications for a Gen 1.5 (My Edge is a 2011) ? I've found various Specifications stated and without a bench manual, I need verification. This is What I Have found that seems to be correct. FRONT BRAKES:. Brake caliper anchor plate bolts 98 LB-FT Brake caliper guide pin bolts 65 LB-FT REAR BRAKES: Brake caliper anchor plate bolts 66 LB-FT Brake caliper guide pin bolts 19 LB-FT Thanks for your help.

absolutely programed and does make a difference. I wish it was a step better in that when selecting a preset and then modifying with the Sliders for Bass/Mid/treble it would remember the changes individually to each preset rather than overall boost to the 3 tone range. it is what it is and the addition with Forscan does make a difference.

Add Equalizer Preset Buttons Vehicle: 2011 Edge Limited with Sony Sound Using Forscan added EQ Mode (off/Rock/Pop/Classical/Voice) selection. This is in the APIM Module 7D0-01-02 xxxx xXxx xxxx Change BIG "X" to "8" (enable). The default is "0" Disabled. (My default AS-BUILT was: 7D0-01-02 0403 0000 02E3 to activate I changed to: 7D0-01-02 0403 0800 02E3)

Vehicle: 2011 Edge Limited with Sony Sound Using Forscan added EQ Mode (off/Rock/Pop/Classical/Voice) selection. This is in the APIM Module 7D0-01-02 xxxx xXxx xxxx Change BIG "X" to "8" (enable). The default is "0" Disabled. (My default AS-BUILT was: 7D0-01-02 0403 0000 02E3 to activate I changed to: 7D0-01-02 0403 0800 02E3) You can still use the slider controls to adjust Bass, Mid, Treble on top of presets. (does not remember each individual adjustment )

Took the gamble bought the camera from Amazon (Same camera / company as in my original post) Avlis-Co. Used my Amazon Points plus 2 day Prime shipping (Basically no out of pocket expense) Camera works (excellent picture quality & it's right side up), Now the downside....... No Lines or Boxes display for parking assist (not a deal breaker for the cost). I have tried Forscan & APIM master reset too many time to remember. No Joy on the lines. I'll keep researching for solutions (perhaps changing code in the "As Built" portion with Forscan ?) I used the Dremel hack to remove the Bassackward screw the geniuses designed at FORD. and it took longer to think about it than actually took. (Thank you to original poster on that procedure ).

Outside of Local Dealer Parts counter, What is a good on-line source to purchase these ? Ford Callout Name: HM1 (Hardware Miscellaneous Pin-Retainer, Trim 9 X 0.6 - 1MM)

If you haven't heard Takata is in Bankruptcy proceedings. This might be slowing down some replacements, but car manufactures are still on the hook to repair/repair under federal recalls. https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-06-26/what-takata-s-bankrupty-means-for-airbag-recalls-quicktake-q-a

There are a lot of Post regarding issues with early models of Edge Backup Cameras failing. I have now become a member of that club. (2011 Limited 48K Miles...not that it really makes a difference). Purchase online from a Ford dealer results in $ 300.00 (+/-) outlay. finding alternatives that work (no upside down etc crap) is a crap shoot. Please list what is working for you & where you Purchased to help member out. I have Forscan already and have enough knowledge with the Program & mechanical skills to do the replacement. I just am reluctant to purchase something that's not going to work and/or pay stealership parts department insane marks ups (Ive worked at a dealership in my younger years & know the games). Research has been my best friend, has anyone replace with this one ? (it is not an endorsement and I have no affiliation what so ever) https://avlis-co.com/rear-view-backup-camera-bt4z-19g490-b-replacement-for-2012-edge-limited-sport-utility-4-door/ it can be purchased around the same cost from Amazon (which is where I would purchase with my Prime membership & return policy) . Merchant is saying 100% Money back Guaranteed. This is part of their advertisement " This Camera is Manufactured by OEM Ford Motor Company and marked with P/N GJ5T-19G490-AD We offer a 100% money back guarantee if for whatever reason the camera doesn't work for you. You will receive the exactly Camera as shown in the image listed " Please Post what has worked for member so others can benefit. Thanks

Have 2011 Limited (US version), Does not seem to be a lot of Mods with forscan available.for Limited that are not already activated So far: # of flashes for lane change turn signal from default 3 to 6 Turned off the belt reminder (I do wear my belt all the, I find the chime a pain when I'm just sitting doing other stuff with engine running) Turned on Traffic Message channel (To be determined if it makes a difference) I'm still trying to get the daytime running lights (HID's) activated specially the vertical LED's (theoretically NOT fog lights although Ford seems to refer to it as such) Would it help Others with Programming if we started a Data base of "As Built" (.abt) files ? I'm more than happy to share my factory data file.

Anyone been able to turn on the Daytime running lamps with Forscan ? If so, Please share the code. Thanks.

Thats exactly what the dealer ended up replacing (Upgraded FCIM). Total cost was just under $ 700.00 (Taxes etc.) I researched it the best I could (not a lot on the net regarding the actual part #'s or R&R & testing for a DIY. I did pull the old one out before returning back to the dealer for them to do it to try & get more Part Numbers. It's not hard to remove took me maybe 30 minutes with Extra care. Once out I removes the plastic back cover of the PCB board. all the commponents are on a Soingle Board (Radio, Air Cond., CD, Hazard Flasher. I was hoping there was a seperate Board/Wire for the Hazard, I was going to Clip it in hopes it would stop the flashers from going off since the Flashers are triggered by a ground signal from the Switch to the BCM/SJB. Ford no longer has available the Touch sensor panel, they have replace with the type that has old school actual push button (wish I'm more than happy with). The Dealer said they had problems uploading the Program information from the Ford Service site to My BCM/SJB to program for the new Style FCIM. Said they spent 2-1/2 Hours but only charge me 1-1/2 hours. Not Happy with shelling out $ 700.00 for a Crappy design to begin with that I feel had a flaw in it. Vahicle only has 26,000 Miles & 40 months since being in service. Biggest frustration(s)........ 1) Lack of Information regarding the FCIM 2) Fordparts.com parts finder for the Actual Part Numbers.

2011 EDGE Limited Hazard lights start blinking by themselves car not running, can not turn them off. Have to pull the Negative Terminal & leave disconnected for 15 minutes. This Model hyas the "Capitive Touch" sensor for the Harzard Lights switch. I took it to dealer, they want $ 660.00 dollars to replace the "FCIM" Front Controls Interface Module. Part # BT4Z18842CA I was doubtful this was it. But have been looking more into it. Couple of Questions: 1) anyway of disabling just the Hazard Lights (no fuses or Relays I can find) 2) If I purchase the FCIM myself & Install does it need to be "Flashed" (similar to a PCM/ECU) 3) Can a FCIM from a 2013 (With old fashion push buttom) be installed without Modifications ? 4) Good On-Line Location to Purchase this part (Trying to save a few $$) 5) Is this part of the 5 year Ford extended warranty they have on the "My Touch" It seems to be HEAT related as it only starts flashing after tha car has been sitting most of the day in the sun & the outside Temperature is approaching the Mid 90's Car only has 26,000 Miles but is out of the 36/36 Warranty by 6 months. Picture of the FCIM attached "18842" appears no way of removing the FCIM from the bezel to geet to the Capitive touch sensor to unplug sensor.

Both Flood Ford, Anderson & Koch On Line ESP plans are not available to florida Residents. "We are sorry but due to Florida law, Florida Residents are not eligible for online service contracts. Please contact your local dealer." Anyone have a work around ? This is the pricing from another place that can offer in state....Insane Pricing, New PremiumCARE Review Plan Years Mileage Plan Code Price $200 $100 $50 $0 Select 7 36,000 PC736C0 $1,840 7 48,000 PC748C0 $2,035 7 60,000 PC760C0 $2,185 7 75,000 PC775C0 $2,610 7 100,000 PC7100C0 $2,890 7 125,000 PC7125C0 $3,495

Whats the normal Ford policy on Loaner or Rental when a vehicle is at the dealer for Warranty repair Purchased a Used 2011 Edge Limited with 12,300 Miles a few weeks ago (still has 9 months on 36 / 36 warranty) NOT purchased from a Ford Dealer No Extended Warranty Edge at a Ford Dealer (Dealer of my choice) for the Visa roof stuck in the OPEN position. Dealer has to send in the repair claim to Ford for approval & Order parts (Rails etc.). Dealer said it will be about a week before it will be ready. Edge is not drivable with open Vista Roof. So basically trying to find out about Loaner or rental reinbursement Policy from from Ford.

Since my 2011 has Rubber valve stems i'm guessing the sensors are attached to the center of the rim OR senses difference in tire diameter / rotation speed (similar to 2011 & Newer VW Golf) Which one ?

That makes More sense Are they Plastic or Metal Rivets ?