jlkansascity

WWWPerfA, do all of the Edge have the 6F50 transmissions? I see some of the parts sites ask if you have the "6F" or the "6F50" so how do I know what transmission I have?

Thanks for all the great suggestions as I get prepared to take this on. OMAR302, I cannot find anyone in the states that sells the PTU with the drain plug. My intention is to drill/tap one in regardless. I'll support the site sponsor mentioned also and buy there when I get ready. I also ran across this good post on the Ford Flex site where he reviews many of the tools needed for the seal replacement, and some alternatives to the factory tools, even how to make one of the tools. http://www.myfordfreestyle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=5140 I do have another question; on some of the parts lookup sites it asks if I have the "6F" transaxle or the "6F50" transaxle. For example, on www.fordparts.com. How do I tell which one I have? I'm sure it's the 6F50, but I don't want to end up with a bunch of the wrong parts. Thanks everyone for the help!

Does anybody with this problem have a suggestion for where to buy a replacement PDU unit? I see them on ebay, but does anyone have experience with a good place to buy one at a reasonable price? Looks like I'm in this boat after an inspection on the lift last night. 2007 Edge, leaking dark think PDU/PTO fluid and loose bolts on side of unit. Thanks for any suggestions. Jonathan

That's not a good excuse/reason. My other vehicle is 14 years old and has had no major work. For this PDU unit to crap out after 30k - 100k miles is sad.

I did not actually seperate the plastic light assembly. I think that could be done, in theory, by cutting it apart somehow (Dremel?) and then epoxy the thing back together afterwards. If you do this, you ought to post some pictures, it sounds like an interesting idea. JL

For you DIY folks, here is a short video on how to change your own oil on your Edge and save a few bucks.

Yep, those look just like mine. They have also burnt out several times. I don't know what to think but it's clear they got really hot.

I've seen some quesitons out here about how to change the rear wiper blade on a Ford Edge. This is pretty easy and better to show than to try to describe it. Here is a link to a video that shows how easy it is. . The blades used here are Trico Exact Fit, and are a high quality replacement wiper.

The drivers and passenger wipers are not the same. They use different part numbers. I don't know what exact length they are, but I know they are different. Here is a tool that will look up the exact correct quality wiper for your Edge, even the third wiper. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/vehiclelookup.aspx?zo=313120 Quality Trico Wiper lookup for your Edge I was actually looking to see if anyone has had issues with the washer nozzels breaking off; mine just fell apart but it doesn't seem to be a common issue.

Good_Hands; Extended drain intervals can't, by themselves, void a warranty. Please review my other posts for links. However, Amsoil has responded to the fact that many individuals aren't comfortable with extended drain intervals, and that's why Amsoil launched their "XL" series, which Amsoil recommends for 6 month or 7,500 mile drain intervals. It also meets the Ford WSS-M2C930-A spec, mentioned in your Ford Edge owners manual. Here's a link to the oil I'm referencing. Let me know if there are any other questions you might have. JL

The actual oil recommended by Ford, reading directly from my 2007 Ford Edge owners manual; Use a SAE 5W-20 that meets Ford Specification WSS-M2C930-A. If you look on Amsoil's Online Product Application Guide, they list 3 options for a 2007 Ford Edge. -- 0W-20 --5W-20 --"Signature Series" 0W-20 All three options meet the Ford WSS-M2C930-A specification; it says right on the oil. To go directly to the online Amsoil Product Application Guide, click this link. JL

Grey, that's just not true. Manufacturers cannot void, or avoid, a warranty due to brand of oil you use. If the oil meets manufacturer stated specifications, you're fine to use it. *Check this link for a detailed explanation of "Warranties and Amsoil" *Check this link to go to the Amsoil warranty on Amsoil.com *Click this link to see an explanation of the Magnuson-Moss Act, which was passed in 1975 and prohibits manufacturers from requiring a specific brand. This informational page also discusses the fact that extended drain intervals can, in and of themselves, compromise a warranty. Also, STEEDA, the Ford performance company, is actually an Amsoil Dealer. Really! Check out their site. JL

Yeah, you can't trust dealers or quick change locations blindly, either. I have a buddy who just bought a Pontiac G8 and came over and I could "smell" oil. It was dark out, so we got a flashlight and saw a puddle of oil under the car, coming from the filter. It was EXTREMELY tight, I don't know what they did, but he had the oil changed at a KC Pontiac dealer the day before. Of course, they fixed it for free, but the trust is compromised. That's why I do my own. JL

Yeah, Solas, I think that meets Sarbanes Oxley, PCI, ISO 9000, and some other yet unknown criteria. I've never heard of a dispute with the manufacturer about brand of oil in my life, so far. But you can't be too careful! JL

I would like to respond to part of this. Auto manufacturers cannot "void a warranty" based on the Brand of oil you use, or even based on the drain intervals, as long as the intervals are reasonable. Here is how it works. The auto manufacturer comes up with specifications the lubricants have to meet. Then, any oil that meets those specifications can be used. --Amsoil Synthetic Oils ARE API certified. Check their site. Even the 0 (zero) weight oil is API certified. --Ford cannot, and will not, avoid a warranty based on using Amsoil Synthetic Oils. Amsoil has been around since the 1970's, and certainly would have faced this issue before, if true. -- If you're a Ford fan, you know who STEEDA is, right? The performance parts company that sells complete cars just like Roush and Saleen? Well, STEEDA is actually an Amsoil Dealer; check out their site. Link to documentation regarding warranties and synthetics, click this link. Link to STEEDA's Amsoil page, click this link. Link to the numerous racers and race series that Amsoil sponsors, click this link. Personally, I've run a Dodge pickup for 96,000 miles without ever changing the oil, just doing oil analysis and changing filters when analysis suggested it. I did this just to prove it would work. Then I sold the pickup to my dad, who rolled it while pulling a horse trailer, so it's not around anymore. I currently have a 2000 Neon that has 210k miles, all on Amsiol with annual oil changes only. The only engine work I've done is a proactive timing chain replacement at about 90k. On the Ford Edge; I have also had the issue with the wheels, and the transmission seal leak. Ford fixed the leak, but hasn't replaced wheels, but now I'm going to ask them about it. I have also seen the rear taillights and backup lights fail regularly, and look "burnt" when replacing them. If anyone wants additional information on Amsoil, see my site or email me. JL

On my 2007, with 40k miles, they are both charred like the photos. I replaced a bulb today, and when I saw that I pulled the other side and it was the same way. I'll have the dealer look next time I have it in to the dealer. JL

I just posted a very detailed explanation How to remove tail lights Let me know if it helps.

I'm not sure the factory hitch is welded on. It is a welded hitch; if you look at it there are several peices that are welded together. It fits up inside the rear bumper, in the styrofoam bump protection. However, if you look where it joins the frame, it appears to be bolted to the frame. So you could remove it and install an aftermarket 2" Class 3 receiver, as there are companies making them for the Edge. Like the other are saying, that is kind of pointless as the Ford Edge is not spec'ed to pull any more weight than the hitch so even if you put on a 2" Class III hitch you couldn't pull any more weight (unless you're going to throw the manufacturer recommendations and safety out the window). I had a F-350 and do not believe in overloading a vehicle's stated towing capacity. It's extremely hard on the tow vehicle, and dangerous, upping your risk significantly. You CAN get a 2" ball for the factory hitch. Ford carries them. I bought one at Lowes. I don't pull any more weight, but my trailers were all set up for 2" so I got a 2" ball.

Mine is a 2007 Edge, but the newer ones are the same. Issue; Extreme hitch rattle when towing a small trailer, bike rack or anything else. Background; I used to drive a F-350 Superduty diesel 4 door. It pulled anything I hooked, and never rattled. I loved that truck.... We got the Edge and the rattle drives me nuts, although I don't tow much at all. Here are some of the items that contribute to the problem, as compared to larger vehicles (BigStinky, the F-350) On smaller vehicles, designers want to carry less tongue weight. Light tongue weight = rattle. On a Superduty, put a thousand pounds on the tongue and there is no way it's going to rattle. On this specific vehicle, and on many small vehicles, the square tube used to build the receiver is extremely short; on the Edge it's only about 5 inches. This means the overlap on the receiver tube and the hitch is only a few inches. This creates more wobble and rattle. On the Superduty, the overlap on the receiver and the hitch is almost a foot; minimizing the wobble. On a larger vehicle, the driver is further from the hitch just because the vehicle is longer. I think this helps a lot. It also seems like the tolerances on the Class II on the Edge are extreme; they could be much tighter in my opinion. Some possible solutions I considered; Weld on a longer square tube on the front of the existing tube to create a receiver with a 8 - 12 inch tube instead of the minuscule 5 inches. Have a custom build hitch machined to fit the receiver with tighter tolerances. Cut it off an put on a good hitch. (Didn't want to do that on a new vehicle.) I drove this Edge with the smallest U-Haul from North Idaho to Kansas City, in the winter so I had to come up with something. Here is what I did; Loaded the trailer heavy in the front, to get some tongue weight on the hitch. When I had the trailer empty, the rattle drove a person crazy; it was extreme. I looked at some devices on line and bought one of these; Anti Rattle Hitch Device from eTrailer. There are good pictures online. Keep in mind, if you use one of these it should be installed so it pulls the hitch DOWN, working WITH the tongue weight. I've seen pictures of these installed pulling the hitch UP, and then the entire tongue weight of the trailer is on the bold on the anti rattle device. This thing worked pretty well, and combined with a good amount of tongue weight eliminated the rattle except for extremely rough roads. Here is another device I think would work even better, due to more robust mounting; Anti Rattle Hitch Device from Hitch Vise. There are really good pictures here. This is basically two heavy plates that "sandwich" the hitch and are held in place with two heavy bolts. It looks very robust. The downside is that it's not removable by hand like the eTrailer device. Bottom line; I still wish I had my Big Stinky F-350 back, but with some planning and a couple of options the hitch rattle on an Edge can be reduced to a manageable memory. If you have any questions, or if this helps you out, please let me know. PS: I also saw one guy on here that could not find a 2 inch ball to fit the factory Ford Edge hitch, with the hole size on the factory hitch. Ford actually carries a 2" ball for the factory Ford hitch. I bought one at Lowe's that fit fine.

I couldn't find any instructions on how to pull the rear tail light assemblies. So, here are some. Mine is a 2007 Edge, but the newer ones are the same. Tools needed; 5/16 nut driver or ratchet silicone spray 3" PLASTIC putty knife For the sake of this discussion, we are working on the RIGHT taillight, the passenger side. Open the hatch back. Look on the left edge of the tail light assembly, under where the hatchback closes. Find the two 5/16 screws. Remove them. Get out your plastic putty knife. Insert it between the body panel and the light, in the FRONT edge of the light assembly. Insert it in the center, vertically. There is a pin at the top and a pin at the bottom (that you cannot see) and you want to get it inserted in between these pins. It should insert easily. Insert the putty knife about 1 - 2 inches. Now, position yourself directly behind the light. Grab the left side of the module (where the two screws were) with your left hand. Grab the putty knife with your right hand. Pull rearwards with both, with even pressure. I had good luck with a gentle "tugging" motion on the putty knife. Make sure you are well braced with good footing; when it releases you don't want to fall over and rip out the wiring harness or damage the light. It will "POP" out and be sitting loosely in the light opening. Replace whatever bulbs needed. Spray the shiny silver metal pins that held the front into the body panel with silicone, to make it easier to pull them in the future. I have seen suggestions to use wrapped screwdrivers, etc., but this method described worked extremely well. I pulled them both in about 1 minute. In my vehicle, the signal light bases on the wiring harness were extremely discolored and looked like they were heat damaged. I don't know if this is a known issue or not. Pictures coming soon. Let me know if this helps you out, or if you have any questions.

I have found a wheel; I no longer need one. JL

I'm looking for one factory chrome 18" wheel. I do NOT need the tire pressure sensor, as the 2007 didn't have that system. I don't need the tire, but will take it if you're trying to get rid of it. I would consider an entire set, but only need one to replace a damaged one. :yup: email me if you like at jonathanlackman@gmail.com