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Atreies

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  1. I'm not sure how the stock sub handles vibration. Did it stabilize that cubby panel? I mean you could just cut the cubby out and I've seen someone who made a custom sub enclosure that fit back there but I hate when the sub makes something rattle. I was looking to do the same, but it will be a big project to custom fab it. I currently have a 10" memphis sub and memphis box that does not take up much room. I think its only 5" thick and not long enough to mount 2 10's in it. I don't care about huge bass I just like to have a proper low end and be able to turn the high pass filter on for my door speakers so they don't work too hard and rattle. Iv'e only test fit and wired the sub in this vehicle so far to make sure its ready so I can't take a pick yet. I only get an hour or 2 of time to work on it in one sitting.
  2. I used speedwire (9 16g wires in one outer jacket) for the front channel behind the radio to go back to the LOC I mounted with an amp where the factory amp/sub would have been. Speedwire has enough wires to then run back up front for the speaker output. I soldered on some RC hobby battery quick disconnects so that when I get rid of the Edge one day I can plug the factory wires back together 123 and secure and done. Butt connectors or those splice taps are not good over time in a vibrating vehicle. I also just swapped in a Audiocontrol LC7i in place of the passive LOC. Sound quality difference is definitely noticeable. I mainly did it though because even though my amp had a in and out pass through for the RCA's my sub amp was just not getting enough signal to work properly. I tried both going straight to the sub and using the amp pass through.
  3. Remote lead won't work on anything behind the radio. They are all 3v or constant 12v. I used a fuse in the driver kick panel. # 35 or #36 I think. Most everything is constant but one of those is switched. Only issue is it turns off right at key off, not when you open the door. But that's fine. I ran my power wire through the big rubber grommet behind the parking brake pedal. It actually has a nipple on it that you can use to get a very tight connection. I removed my battery to get to it easier on the engine side. I put a hole through the nipple, greased up my wire with furniture polish ( don't laugh lol, worked great and won't leave permanent crud all over like soap or oil.
  4. Nice info, thanks for posting it. Do you retain any sync functionality? I'm assuming a lot of aftermarket head units have blue tooth for phone integration so that doesn't really matter. What about this kit? http://radio-upgrade.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=81 Did you do any research on it before making your choice? It seems like it has more features for less but I'm not sure.
  5. Found my sheet, my 2014 Edge SE was accurate to this list: LF+ : White LF- : White/Brown RF+ : White/Violet RF- : White/Orange LR+ : White/Green LR- : Brown/Yellow RR+ : Brown/White RR- : Brown/Blue
  6. If your edge has an amp (basic stereo does not) it is behind the panel in the right rear of the cargo area. I "think" only the sub has an amp but I don't really know for sure. If you have a sub you would have a perforated grill in the back right. If no sub then you have a little shelf/cubby area there. I mounted my amp for speakers there. Google : Ford Edge sub to see pics.
  7. I need to pull out my paper that I wrote it on this past weekend, but I know one of them was white, white/grey in my 2014 SE Although it's a good time to mention that whether you are adding an amp for speakers or a sub the main thing you can do to get some better sound is to change the speakers. When you change the speakers first you can see the colors of the wires at the speaker. The factory ones are awful and you DO NOT need an amp to change them. I prefer to only change the front speakers and leave the fader forward because I don't believe music needs surround , just good imaging. I used some 5x7/6x8 Infinity kappas and was very pleased with the sound with just the factory headunit powering them. An amp is better but honestly the biggest difference was in the speaker swap, and then the amp improved it a bit more, especially at high volume. If you have passengers that really care about audio quality that often you can change the rears too, but again I don't bother.
  8. Tried putting in my switchbacks in front with 50w 6ohm resistors with the orange heatsinks but damn they get stupid hot. Scalding to my hand hot. I'm not very comfortable with that level of heat in my electrical system. Is this normal? I Know they get hot but I can't touch them at all or I will get burned. Also with them in, my blinker stopped hyper flashing but with headlights on auto mode I had no blinkers at all. Very odd. Calling local dealers tomorrow to find price on turning off the faulty bulb system and turn on DRL.
  9. Yes, I'm sure he meant the part with the relay. Many here commonly refer to it as a harness. I'm hoping to install my kit this week using no harness. Definitely worth a shot without the harness but I tried test fitting my set and they did not fire at all so I'm waiting for a set of capacitors to arrive. Very cheap and worth using considering the amount of troubles ppl seem to have with HID's on this vehicle. Capacitors store energy and discharge very fast when needed.
  10. The link above I had read before and does provide some links to research various bulbs but very little specifics as to which product was used or a summation in one place. The VLED's listed on the first post are just too expensive and are not tested to work properly in the Edge? Dingo has great looking lights but didn't list what he used. I went back a few pages in this subforum but was already running into old info/broken links. Some info I've identified so far. Front and rear turn signals both will use a dual filament 3157 (not CK) type bulb. I have not yet seen the rear use the low intensity filament, only the high intensity one from what I've seen on my 2014 Edge SE. You can use a switchback (T1/T2) in the front if you want the parking light to be white instead of amber. The rears will only use the amber so switchbacks are pointless there. Brake lights will also use the 3157 (not CK) type bulb. I'm still looking for some feedback on the various ones found on Amazon/ebay/etc. as far as brightness goes. I'd like slightly brighter than stock but it won't take much more output to be annoying to drivers at a stoplight at night and only so much extra output is really of use unless you tint your tails. Headlights have many threads with lots of info. To sum up though the OPT7 kit or Morimoto HID kits seem to be excellent. Capacitors (very cheap) seem to help reduce issues as do the relay harness's. LED is not only not proven to be any better than HID so far but is also harder to install on the Edge due to the dust caps on our housings. I'm going to install my 35w with only caps, no harness at first and see how it goes. Based on what I've read on power consumption and initial firing I don't see the need for the harness but I could be wrong. I havn't ordered any more lights as of yet and again I will post results and update this with my findings but I wanted to try to save others the amount of time its taking me to research all this. Previously I owned a 2000 Grand Prix GTP and the modding community seems to have been much larger for that vehicle and their efforts were invaluable.
  11. I've been reading through the forum and seeing lots of posts about HID's, reverse lights and front turn signal switchbacks but I havn't seen anyone post which bulbs they used in other locations. I have a list of stock bulb types to reference but that's it. I'm looking to replace as many bulbs with LED's as possible. I'm not looking for ridiculously bright bulbs or anything like that, just a bit brighter than stock and LED. Are there other bulbs on the 2011+ edge that tend to require resistors other than the front turn signals? Good brake light bulb that is not blinding? Don't bother changing out much of the rear lights because its better to spend a few bucks more on the DTBL full units? (I do like the look but not sure I want to spend that much) So far I have 9006 35w 5000k HID's, some Philips backwards firing 921 reverse bulbs and some type 2 switchbacks for the front on order. If they turn out well I'll post the results and exact models/links. Thanks for recommendations.
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