awake33

As far as I know, the MPG loss mostly attributed to the extra weight from the additional components. Yeah, you would use slightly more gas while it's engaged, but as you said, that is very infrequent. It's also for brief durations as well unless you are driving on snow or ice.

I ordered the actual handles, not covers as posted above, from Titus-Will ford. I think it's about $140 if you pickup locally, but you can order them from the website. The handles are listed for the MKX.

I have a similar effect on my front map lights, but it is very, very faint. You have to look up with your head directly under it to see it, and only if it's dark out. This is caused by leaky voltage in the car's electrical system, you just don't notice it with filament bulbs since it's not enough to cause them to glow. The driver side map light is the hub for the rear lights, is that the one you put a stock bulb back in? My front map lights have 5 SMD LEDs each, 4 on the sides and one on top.

Sounds like maybe a harness came unplugged. The roof and compass are part of the same harness afaik, but the windows and roof have their own fuses/relays. Kinda weird that the front windows are part of the problem though.

I recently installed a Python 'Responder One' two-way remote start system with a PKFM-PKFORD express kit for the PATS system in my 08 Limited, it works great. Total cost $174. The range is great so far, but I want to test it out and see how close to the 2000ft range it actually gets. It does not like the parking garage at my workplace, I park on the 7th floor and have to be pretty close to the garage when at ground level for it to work. If anyone is thinking about doing this and has questions, I may be able to provide some advice as well as wiring diagrams/location information. All connections were soldered and no vehicle wires were cut (no T-taps, they are bad!). Only 10 wires on the vehicle total, including parking lights. The install was easy, just time consuming stripping insulation from the middle of wires and soldering would have been easier with 3 hands. I still need to get a relay for the parking lights though, since I think they draw more than 10 amps.

mod - delete please, wrong sub-forum lol

Personally, I wish I could turn off that damned tone. I drive less than 1 mile to work and it gets annoying. When it says 50 miles left, it's more like 80.

My vehicle is not moving, as I said, it is from the moment you start the engine.

I'd be interested in doing this as well, I'm feeling lazy on this one though, so my contribution will be the scans. :stats: Let me know if you, or anybody else for that matter, needs other diagrams. Also, if anyone could lend a hand in determining how to connect the AUX outputs of an aftermarket alarm to turn on the heated seats, that would be great! I have not sat down to look yet, but its why I bought the shop manual. Edge_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf

Let me know how it goes. I live in the Seattle area too and held off on this due to being worried about the PD around here.

I have the same whine. I'm 100% positive it is the fuel pump. It makes the noise from the moment I start the engine until I stop it and comes from the rear of the vehicle. Has done this since day one and I knew it was the pump but have not gotten around to making an appointment, although I did ask a service tech about it and he said it isn't normal. Can even hear it while driving on the highway.

Can you be more specific? What is going to change in the next few months?

Thank you, I appreciate the information.

Good to know, but I have already installed the chrome MKX handles long ago. Can the bezels be purchased seperately?

Any chance of getting these in chrome?

Nobody will ever convince a dealership to tap into wire harnesses to mod something, let alone solder wires to a switch. There is absolutely no way to do this without some soldering, the harness does not have wires at all in the sockets for the pins that need GND and +12v. That is unless you want to cut wires and/or buy the harness from the MKX, both routes requiring either extensive disassembly or voiding your warranty. Lex, I thought it was obvious, I said I liked the color better, it matches my interior. Now there isn't a black void in the middle of all the tan. You could tap into a harness for ground, but why cut into anything when you can just put a jumper that's 1/2" long right on the back of the switch? And the power is connected to one of the pins, I don't recall which one. Just reverse the process I explained for finding which pin is ground to see which pin needs +12v. It's trial and error, some pins will light half the board or 1 or 2 LEDs, only one lights them all.

I didn't know so many people wanted to do this mod, I ordered the MKX part as soon as I got my Edge. I like the color, it matches the interior better. Be careful if you order the MKX part, it's painted. Mine came with a tiny bit of it rubbed off on one of the corners, you can see a pinhole light thru it at night. The next two pictures are of the original part. I don't recall for certain, and didn't want to disassemble to find out, which pins are which. But I think pin 14 is ground and pin 1 needs a ground in order to light the LEDS. So I soldered a very small wire jumper in between the two rows of pins on the side of the PCB that has the molex connector. I removed the blue w/red striped wire connector for the mirror from the molex connector and soldered a jumper onto it for +12v. This was then run up through the stock sleeve to the cavity behind the switch. I used a bullet connector on the end and soldered a short jumper to directly to the connector side of the switch again, with the other half of the bullet connector in case I ever need to remove the switch. I appologize that I don't remember which pins are which, so be sure to test them yourself! I used the +5 supply from my PC to test which pin needs the +12v, this way it wouldn't overload the resistors if I had it connected the wrong way, but the LEDS still light up a little bit. To see which pin is ground, with the switch still connected to the car but the PCB removed from the case, tap into the +12v on the mirror and apply to the proper side of any single LED. At the same time, apply a jumper to the other side of the LED while testing the pins of the connector with the other end for ground. You can't hurt the LEDs from using the wrong polarity, it just won't light up. I'll check back to see if anyone has any questions, as a side note I also installed HIDs and chrome handles (for the MKX) without any issues if anyone has questions. I've swapped out one LED in the center console to white, but stopped that project until I can figure out what to do with the backlighting on the shifter. It appears to be electroluminescent and is encased in glass.

What color is your edge?

First I must say I love the SYNC system, especially with the new cell phone laws while driving. Ok, here is the problem in an '08 Limited. If I activate the voice prompt with the stereo turned off and say "USB" the system comes on and starts playing music as it should. But WITHOUT the SUB! I have to turn it on by pushing the volume knob from an off state or the SUB doesn't power up. Can anyone else duplicate this error?

Agreed. Since buying this vehicle I have always used my parking brake. I put it in neutral, apply parking brake, take my foot off the regular brakes and THEN put it in park. Never cared before, but this is my first $30k+ car and I don't want unecessary pressure on the little pin that 'Park' engages. It was never meant to stop the vehicle on it's own and besides, the thing weighs 2+ tons. Traded in an '07 Focus that I never used the parking brake on, it just happened to start having problems disengaging from 'Park' because of the wear and tear, only had 8600 miles too.