27Sport

On 3/15/2021 at 11:27 PM, SidneyAks said:

@Sivicsi420 or @TheTurboEdge, I'm looking at adding a hitch to my new-to-me 2017 sport using your instructions. Any suggestions on doing the OE wiring harness? Also, of I do get the harness, do you know if I'll need an ecu flash?

 

Thank you for the writeups you've provided this far!

Do a search and find my write-up of installing the factory trailer wiring. Can be done fairly cheap, especially if you purchase the trailer light module from a junk yard or ebay. Any Ford trailer wiring module will work, it's just the mounting brackets that are different, which easily pop off. Only have to run a power wire to the under dash fuse box to make it work, all other parts and wiring are factory parts and plug right in.

It most likely sat on a dealers back lot, which many are not paved. Sitting for a long period of time on a dirt lot does not allow things to dry out as quickly as if it was on cement. Dirt retains moisture for quite awhile.

Yes, I already experienced this and explained previously. Takes maybe 30 min to get the 4-way plug working using factory parts and about 6' of wire to the under dash fusebox.

Just use the split sensors when installing it. For both sensors they are about $30 total from the dealer.

8 hours ago, Gadgetjq said:

Actually the Prestone product is available right now (Walmart) for under $11 per gallon for the concentrate.  It's a great deal for anyone pinching pennies.
Here's the rub.  As you tour through all of these Edge forums there's a LOT of information about coolant, much of it contradictory.  So then you visit coolant centric sites which become even more confusing.  Ford hasn't helped with all of it's changes from green to yellow to orange and, in some cases, back to green again.  In the end I felt a lot more comfortable using the 'real' Motorcraft stuff.  To me it's worth another $13 and change (difference between MC and Prestone for two gallons of concentrate) to be absolutely certain.

 

Well that Prestone is the "real" Motorcraft stuff, just in a red container. To each his own though.

Or you can buy the Prestone longer life coolant at the auto parts store for $15.99. It’s the exact same stuff as Prestone is the supplier for Ford’s coolant. It’s compatible will any and all coolant regardless of color. 

22 minutes ago, Gadgetjq said:

 

Great find, thanks for posting! 

Could you be a little more specific about where the connector is (just so I'm not ripping up an unnecessary amount of carpet). 
I'm still hunting/gathering parts but the wiring is something that can be done well ahead of the hitch install.

Thanks!

If you were sitting in the passenger seat, peel down the carpet to the right of where your right foot would be. Between the plastic kick panel and the firewall. There are two large white connectors. It's the one on the right (closest to pass door). Brown/red wire is on the bottom part of the connector, near the edge. It's much thicker wire than the rest.

While running the power wire I found the issue with the factory power wire (brown/red). There are two large connectors behind the carpet in the passengers footwell where the main body harness meets the under hood harness. The brown/red wire is on one side of the connector (body side), but not on the engine side. That means there is no wire from the under hood fuse box to the main connector.

Instead of running your own power wire to the trailer module, you could cut the brown/red wire at the connector and attach your own power wire directly to that. Would only need about 3-4ft of 12awg wire from the connector to the under dash fuse box. I used a micro 2 add-a-circuit with a 20amp fuse into spot 29 for my power wire.  

Success!!  I was finally able to get around to looking into why I was not getting power to the trailer plug at the hitch. I initially discovered that there was no 12v power at the factory trailer module. Turns out that even though fuse 78 shows power, it is not connected somewhere between the under-hood fuse box and the connector plug behind the cargo trim panel, even though the power wire is present in the back. I ran a length of wire directly from the battery to the brown/red wire at the trailer module to see if it was an easy fix. Turns out that is the issue. Trailer plug at the hitch now has power. Also, the factory plug can be accessed by removing the little storage compartment on the rear trim panel (pull up on the outside edge first). Don't have to remove the entire panel. I used some double sided tape to mount the trailer module to the sheetmetal next to the plug.

I suggest cutting the brown/red wire about 3" away from the module plug to attach your power wire, then run it directly to the battery. Also, use 12awg wire and an inline 30amp fuse at the battery as that is what the factory harness uses.

Summary of what is needed to get as close to factory as possible when installing trailer wiring. This also eliminates the need to get an aftermarket light module. The Ford Accessories version has you tapping into the turn signal wires and having to run the wiring through the floor. (Complete at your own risk)

F2GZ-13A576-A  Harness from 4-pin to plug behind right rear tire

F2GZ-13A576-B  Jumper harness from factory plug behind right rear cargo trim panel to trailer light module

F2GT-19H378-AB  Trailer module (I believe all Ford trailer modules are the same, the only difference is the mounting brackets which you will need to take off anyway). I'm using one from a 2017 Escape. As long as the base part number is 19H378 you should be good.

Run a 12awg wire with a 30amp inline fuse from the 12+ side of the battery to the brown/red wire of the trailer module harness

In theory, you could instead run the power wire to the fuse box under the driver's side dashboard and use an add-a-fuse. Fuses 29 and 30 are 30amp constant 12v and are not used for anything else in the vehicle (spares).

My 2018 did not have the drawer so I swapped it with the one from my 2016 before trading it in.

7 hours ago, ONEDGE16 said:

did you check the fuse box and confirmed you have the "Trailer lighting Module Fuse" Fuse # 78 - 40A M Case Fuse. (Owners Manual - P 272)

Yes, fuse 78 is there and 12v power is going to it. Since I can't get to the back side of that fuse box, I wonder if there is even a wire connected to it.

On 7/1/2019 at 2:27 PM, mr_jason said:

Had the same pricing issue, looked good until the shipping cost.  Ended up just ordering it from a local dealer.  Did you install it yet?  I'm still waiting for the harness to the tow module

 

4 pin wire = F2GZ-13A576-A

wiring to tow module which is on backorder = F2GZ-13A576-B

 

Somehow my local dealer had the jumper harness in stock! I plugged everything in but still no trailer power. I used a test-light and there is no 12v power going into the trailer tow module (brown/red stripe wire). I tried seeing if it needed to be enabled with Forscan but it did not detect that module. My next step is to apply power to the 12v wire of the tow module from the battery to see if it works. Might also need to enable it with Forscan as I have seen screenshots from other vehicles that show a trailer tow module, which is different from the factory trailer brake module in some vehicles.

So I'm in the process of obtaining all the necessary parts to add the factory hitch to my '18 Sport. So far I have the hitch (used), the split liftgate sensors and the 4-way harness that plugs into the empty spot behind the passenger side tire. There is an unused plug behind the panel inside the luggage compartment which I believe is used for the trailer tow module. However, it requires a jumper harness to go from the single plug of the vehicle, to the three plugs on the module. It's part number F2GZ-13A576-B, which is on national backorder.

As far as needing to enable the trailer tow module, it's not required. The F150's get the trailer brake module enabled, since the Edge does not have trailer brake capability it only has the lighting module.

Have the dealer perform TSB 18-2339. It states to install new lower door weatherstripping and mini mudflaps behind the front tires. This is the exact issue for this TSB. 

FA1A-19A286-AA

The monthly price difference between a FWD and AWD will usually only be a few dollars as the residual value will be more on the AWD version. Plus you don''t have to pay the full cost of the AWD option, just the residual portion.

2 hours ago, Rimcrim said:

Finally got my VIN and a build date of Dec 31st from an order date in July.

Sucks that Canadians get pushed out, but at least I have a date now.

 

My VIN doesn't show anything under this tool -  https://shop.ford.com/vehicleordertracking#/.

Is there no other way to use the VIN to look up build/ship dates anymore?

Only if you have access to Ford's internal site.

I see the '19 ST has a digital boost gauge in the left side of the cluster. Anyone have an idea on how to enable it on 2015+ Sport models using Forscan?

 

..hummmm. So why call it a special order then ? I tend to take anything a dealer says with slightly less scepticism then from a politician.

Because the dealer ORDERS it SPECIALLY for a customer that wants it a certain way. It's not rocket surgery.

Frankly I don't like the idea that the engine will shutoff while decelerating or the engine stop/start function. However I do know the latter can be switched off each time the engine starts with the button on the console. I would like to disable both permanently. I just hate the idea of not having total control of the vehicle including braking and steering. I am hoping that these items can be permanently disabled in the menu and/or submenus. Alternatively, using Forscan or similar program to disable. In my view all these functions should not have been included in a performance vehicle if this is truly a performance vehicle as advertised. I know I am sounding "old school" but I am a driver and want all decisions left in my control. Btw I wonder how these functions would affect driving on a track if one choses. Can't image the engine shunting down while decelerating at the end of a straight entering a hairpin.

Where exactly does it say the engine shuts off when decelerating? Cutting the fuel off is not the same as turning the engine off.

I dont understand why they went away from the continuously variable damping. That actually really bothers me, especially with the price increase.

Because that would have added even more cost to the ST, not only in parts alone but also engineering and testing cost. On a trim level with very small per year sales it just didn't make sense. The ST is already a 50K vehicle which puts it at the limit of what people are willing to pay for a two-row Ford SUV. Plus it's dangerously close to the price of a nicely equipped Nautilus.

Oh the system itself knows the individual pressures - Ford just chose not to display it on the older models.

Reading individual tire pressure only became available on the 2015+ Edge models. The capability is with the sensors themselves, not the module reading them. Older systems did not have that capability and using a bluetooth adapter is not giving accurate data as it's relying on wheel speed sensor data from the ODB port to "guess" the tire pressure.

Uhh, Continental does more than just make tires. They also make PCM's and other modules.

Ford's OEM 21" wheels are made in China. As far as I remember reading embossed on them. The Sport's 20" are made in USA.

 

 

The 21" wheels are made in Mexico by Prime Wheel.

Thanks guys. I got totally lucky and found the exact wheelset that I want on Craigslist. Dude wants $1400 with Hankook 245/50R20 all seasons. He says the wheels and the tires have less than 300 miles. Hopefully I can talk him down to $1200.

 

I should be able to put them on myself and then get them aligned.

Just a wheel change does not require an alignment, even changing wheel sizes. Do the new ones come with TPMS sensors?