JoeVic

I have a 19 ST.  Over the last 4 years I have noticed a slight drop in the coolant level also.  I had it pressure checked, with no issues.  But I wondered where the coolant went.

The newer yellow coolant definitely has a bright yellow fluorescent look to it.  Compared to coolant in the tank which has lost some of its luster.  I assume this is just the normal breakdown.   

I only have 26,000 miles on it, but will be doing a drain and refill this summer.

23 hours ago, STBEAST said:

I think auto start stop is nothing more than a way to prematurely wear out your battery, starter and flywheel ring gear. You don't save any fuel and it is nothing more than a scam. Be glad it does not work. In the end, you will save money.

 While I am not a fan of the auto stop/start and usually deactivate it, his issue with it not working is most likely because of a weak battery or other electrical issue. 

Did you lease or buy the Edge?  If bought, did you buy it outright or finance from the dealer?   I have heard of some dealers installing GPS systems in case of default on the payments.  
 

Are you positive it is Low Jack system?   Usually they are installed at the request of the customer and it is usually hidden so it can’t be found.  That system is used by law enforcement to track stolen vehicles.  

4 hours ago, dabangsta said:

Resetting the BMS with an old battery is not what you should do. That tricks it into thinking that is the new full battery, and if it would continue auto start/stop eventually it won't restart.

 

You do not need to bypass the BMS when charging or jump starting, use the post on the shock tower for the negative cable.

 

I let my 2017 Escape battery go from 450 CCA (auto start/stop disabled at that point) to 225 CCA, it still started fine (but no auto start/stop), but I couldn't listen the radio with the engine off. I carried a jump box with me, but I replaced it once another driver started driving it again and we went on a long trip. Auto start/stop didn't start working with new battery until BMS reset, but I could listen to music without it turning off immediately.

      You are one of the few people commenting on this that is absolutely correct.  I am seeing many people on different Face Book Edge Groups recommending the BMS reset.  This is totally incorrect. 

      One thing that people should look at is the Battery State of Charge.  I have found that under 70% SOG my Auto Stop/Start will not engage.   The battery and vehicle is otherwise satisfactory.    

On 2/3/2024 at 10:55 AM, Mikghee said:

Does anyone know what the OEM for the console storage tray for 2024 Ford Edge (ST)? Or should I contact Ford? Thanks!!!

If you are talking about the tray that drops into the center console (not hinged) it looks like the part number is EM2Z-5804567-BA .  I am seeing it priced at $79.61 from Ford Parts and $83.22 at Lakeland Ford.

On 1/20/2024 at 10:22 PM, edjunior said:

 

Everything looks good except for removing the Edge.  It makes the ST look a little lopsided.  And it looks "empty", like something is missing.  This is just my opinion.

Gotta agree with edjunior.  Nice add ons, but removing the EDGE makes it look like the vehicle was damaged and it was not replaced.   But it is your vehicle to do as you please.

7 hours ago, kruzr1 said:

I was able to gain access by unplugging and removing the headlight assy.

That is how I did it.  2 fasteners and then two clips.  Easy as could be.  i bought the dual horn assembly already on the bracket for about $50.  Plug and play.    Part #   FA1Z-13832-A 

There are some YouTube videos that show the entire easy process.      

14 hours ago, Cerberus said:

I'd by far prefer carbon build up on valves over a wet belt driven oil pump. 

Carbon on valves is slow, progressive, tolerable, avoidable and relatively easily fixable, whereas oil pump drive failure is sudden, and terminal. 

Thanks for the personal experience 

What do you recommended to avoid valve carbon build up?

39 minutes ago, Cerberus said:

Umm... 

Based on what?

I was under the impression that after 2018 the Gen 2 2.7 was being used throughout the brand. This is a primary sticking point for me because the Gen2 engine uses a wet (oil exposed) belt to drive the oil pump, which gives me serious concerns about the reliability of the oil system.

I have a 19 ST.  I am more concerned with the carbon build up on the valves due to the Direct Injection than the wet belt drive oil pump.     

Nick Halstead is correct the 2.7 in the Edge is not the 2nd Gen with dual injection.

On 12/11/2023 at 2:16 PM, Chipster said:

Ben; I find myself need to replace the lug nuts on my 2016. Did you buy the Dorman, and if so how have they been? If you did not buy Dorman what did you go with and how have they done for you?

I ended up getting McGard solid lugnuts.  They had better reviews for rust resistance.  Only thing is they are 22mm, so I had to put a 22mm socket in with a breaker bar.  The OEM jack handle won't work now.  They have been on almost a year with no issues.

Damn.  Thats some pretty bad rust.  What area of the country was that driven in?

I had the same sort of issue but with a 2004 Crown Vic.  It had the same parking brake in a hat assembly with little brake shoes as your Edge.  

It would lock up in reverse only.  Turns out one of the linings separated from the metal shoe from rust and luckily it only caught when in reverse.

Working in that confined area between the hub and backing plate was not fun.  Glad I had worked on ancient drum brakes decades ago, so i knew how they worked.

You are probably going to have to open everything up.

14 hours ago, handfiler said:

pax seat......lol. Automotive terminology would be helpful.

I am not a rocket scientist or automotive engineer, but even I figured he meant passenger seat.  ?

Wow, that is some rust.  I have been meaning to order one of the "Hockey Pucks" online to use on the pinch weld.  I always questioned that philosophy to use the weld.  It didn't appear to spread the lifting forces out very far.  I am used to a good flat frame position. 

Always wondered if the pinch weld could bend and there it is.  

i seriously doubt the floor dimensions changed from MY 22 to 23.  I would think you can safely buy your floor liners.  

Haz using this method I assume does not reset the battery "days in service".  I have used Forscan Lite to reset the Battery Minder when a new battery was installed and it reset the days in-service to zero.  

A paragraph in a 2019 service manual says that it is important to reset, when a new battery is installed, so all of the charging algorithms know it is a new battery and not one that has been in-service.

Are these two different types of resets ?

I use FORScan Lite to monitor the exact ECT.   Engine Coolant Temperature.  Also Transmission Fluid Temp.

It is a pain to reconnect the phone and app every time I start the engine though.

I have seen the actual temp displayed in a 2022 Ford Bronco.  Along with actual voltage.   Would like to see that in my Edge.

http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants-qa.com/quickref/coolantsEN.pdf

Motorcraft's latest coolants and applications

On 12/17/2022 at 10:23 AM, BillE said:

Thank you.  My 2019 owners manual calls out orange CVC-3DIL coolant, but the car has yellow coolant.  The 2020 owner manual calls out the VC-13DL-G yellow as you stated.  Ordered a couple gallons from Rock Auto. Thanks again.

I have a 2019 also with a 7-31-2019 build date.  I had an addendum in the owners manual regarding the upgraded coolant.

4 hours ago, BillE said:

For the past few week  I have been noticing the same white smoke coming from the exhaust pipes of my 2019 Edge ST with ~11,000 on it.  I bought the car new in September of 2019.  The car has not been abused.  The white smoke is primarily visible when I take off from a stop sign or traffic light. Does not require WOT.  After reading what others have written I checked my coolant level and found it to be at about at the low level marker.  I have ordered a gallon of Genuine Ford Fluid VC-7DIL-B Gold Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant from Amazon.  The 2019 Edge requires yellow or orange coolant depending on the manufacture date.  Motorcraft  says orange if  manufactured before 7/8/19 and yellow if manufactured on or later than 7/8/19.  My car's door post sticker says 7/19 and  has yellow coolant.  Seems very suspicious that several owners in our forum are experiencing the same phenomena.   I am interested to hear what the dealer has to say.  Hope Ford doesn't try to hide the issue like they did with the 2019 ST's  3rd gear.   The dealer waited for the 2020(or 2021? ) model to remove the 3rd gear with a software change.

Just an FYI. The correct coolant should be Motorcraft Yellow VC-13DL-G (prediluted)  or VC-13-G.   Not the Motorcraft Gold.

10 hours ago, Taikhum said:

@akirby: I’ve been trying to confirm that but I haven’t been able to. I know the problem was in the Ecoboost but did the 3.5L V6 also have this problem? 

The 3.5 V6 has an internal water-pump and if it fails it leaks into the oil and if not caught immediately it can destroy the engine.  If you catch it right away or decide to proactively change out the water-pump, it is a more complicated and expensive job.

Prior to 2019 (I believe) the 2.0 EB has had a coolant intrusion issue, where coolant leaks into a cylinder.  Some people have been able to have the engine replaced under warranty.

One thing recommended in your 3.5 is to change the coolant from the factory orange to the latest Motorcraft Yellow.

They are on the bottom of my Gen 2's doors also.  I believe the primary purpose is drainage.

How does that one fold?   

I am assuming in half and then it twists into a smaller outline ?

I use a nice, sturdy, roll-up, but it is awkward to handle.

I have had a couple minor issues in my 2019 ST were I lost ambient lighting and also power to the front 12V outlet.  Once was after my battery died, another time was after the trans was reflashed.  

Both times I ran ForScan and found codes that basically said components lost communication.  After clearing the codes everything worked again.

Rabbitslayer, when you read all of those codes mentioned, were you able to clear them?     After my battery died and the dealer checked it out and said everything appeared to be okay, I ran FORscan Lite and had almost two handfuls of codes related to "..Lost communication with ..."   I was able to clear all of them, they didn't return and everything appeared to be good.  

A year later I go to the dealer to have my trans updated to the latest TSB and then I notice my interior lighting wasn't working correctly.  I ran another full scan and this time I only saw a few "...Lost communication with ....module" codes.   Again I clear everything and the interior lighting returns to normal.  It appears the interfaces between all of these modules and systems are rather wonky.  If you can, try resetting any errors that you see (after documenting them) and see what happens.