Kissel

Shaay, Not 24 hours after performing a master reset as per Ford's instructions located here, I get a "Navigation SD Card Fault" when I started the car to leave work. Is it safe to assume the dealer won't replace the APIM under Customer Satisfaction Program 12M02 unless the MFT interface is completely unusable? Mine appears to be on the road to total failure but I fear that may not happen before I reach 5 years on the APIM extended warranty. Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving.

Please don't take offense to this but being the original owner of a 2012 Edge Sport with the 8" screen and navigation, I cannot understand why someone would consider doing this. Had I known how poor and unreliable the telematics on this car was going to be, I would have saved the THOUSANDS of dollars by going with a lower trim level and slapping a smartphone onto a quality mount and calling it a day. I've already replaced my backup camera, had an SD Card failure, and now the car's APIM is probably on the road to total failure. Oh, by the way, the price for a new backup camera went up over 200% since I replaced mine over the summer.

akirby, Shaay, Thank you, I will perform the reset and see what happens.

What a damn shame that the part shot up in price over 200%. You have to wonder who's gouging who.

I'm experiencing a few really annoying issues with SYNC and was wondering if it may be an indication of an impending failure of the APIM: 1. Back in March I ordered the A7 map update and by August I was receiving an error indicating that the navigation SD card had failed. HERE Maps kindly sent me a new A7 card and all is well except occasionally I will see "insert navigation SD card" warnings. I don't do anything and the message goes away eventually. 2. Bluetooth pairing with my iPhone seems to be FUBARed. When I start the car, I find that I am in a speakerphone call with myself. I see "my number," and an "end call" button in the phone quadrant as if I'm in a phone call. I don't hear the Sirius channel that I'm tuned to, just dead air. I tried re-pairing the phone to no avail. 3. Other odd quirks that I cannot recall. Should I have the car serviced at a dealer? Might this fall under the extended APIM warranty coverage? Thanks.

My camera started flaking out about a month ago. I lost the parking aids for good and the camera would intermittently display an upside-down image or the "Camera is unavailable. Please contact your dealership." message. Then my brake booster started leaking so I decided to get a quote from the dealer for the camera replacement while they had it for the booster replacement. They wanted over $500 for the camera replacement. I chose not to have them replace the camera because I had checked ALLDATA beforehand to get an idea of what labor and parts were involved and $550 was too high, IMO. So I decided to do it myself. I followed the shop manual instructions which has you do the following: 1. Remove the rear liftgate applique: This is accomplished by first removing the rear liftgate trim panel. There are 4 screws that have to come out in the interior "handles." Once those 4 screws are out you have to use some elbow grease to pop the panel off as it is held in by plastic clips. Not one of my clips broke, thankfully. There are 5 (maybe 6?) bolts that have to come off from the inside of the liftgate and two plastic "snaps" on opposite ends. I used needle nose pliers to pinch the ends of the "snaps" so that I wouldn't break them. The applique came off easily. 2. Remove the rear nameplate and discard. It's held in place using a thin, double-sided foam tape. I actually removed the nameplate first. Not sure if it would have been easier removing it with the applique detached from the liftgate. I used a plastic key card and flat screwdriver to carefully remove the nameplate. It came off with no issues or damage to the paint. 3. Drill a one-quarter inch hole in the applique so that you can access the head of the T20 screw holding the camera bracket in place: I had to make the hole bigger because my T20 screwdriver needed more than a 1/4" opening. I drilled the hole before removing the applique, as I figured it would be easier to drill it while still attached to the liftgate. Loosen the camera bracket screw. 4. Remove the camera bracket and the old camera. 5. Install the new camera and snap the bracket back into place and tighten the camera bracket screw through the new hole. 6. Snap and screw the rear liftgate applique back into place and re-attach the trim panel. Attach the replacement nameplate (the manual suggests you cover the drilled hole with mylar tape before applying the nameplate). 7. Use a scan tool to recalibrate the rear camera (this will bring the parking aids back). I purchased a MOACC ELM327 Wi-Fi OBDII Car Diagnostic Reader Scanner and used FORScan version 2.3.3 beta for Windows on a Windows 10 laptop to recalibrate the camera system. Many thanks to member wlepse for posting the screen grabs from FORScan! Result! Ford parts that I ordered: BT4Z-19G490-B REAR CAMERA $106 AT4Z-9942528-A NAMEPLATE $ 24

Reluctantly purchased mine from ford.navigation.com because I don't trust any other site to provide a legit update, but that could be chalked up to my anal nature. I think I received a letter in January or February 2016 from Ford indicating that a map update was available. Couldn't tell you how often they update the SD Card. You may want to ask the people at HERE: https://company.here.com/here/

Just started having camera problems on my 2012 Edge Sport, out-of-warranty, 30K miles. The "Rear Park Aid" lines have disappeared for good. Sometimes the camera works, sometimes I get the "Camera is unavailable" warning. Just looked at ALLDATA and it says that the labor involved to replace the camera is 0.6 hours with a parts cost of $147. Apparently a hole needs to be drilled in an area underneath the name plate in order to access a screw and remove the camera. The name plate has to be discarded and replaced. I can probably do this myself but would rather not.

I have a 2012 Sport w/3.7L engine and this is the second consecutive winter where I started the vehicle on a really cold morning (15 degrees F or colder) and the power steering pump began whirring from what I assumed was low fluid. In both instances my mechanic found the power steering pump to be low on fluid but there was no sign of a leak. I don't have stains on the ground where I park the vehicle (outdoors) nor do I have issues the rest of the year when the air temperatures are warmer. I have 29,000 miles on the odometer.