Lifeisabeach

Update: all is well. Temps have dropped back down the past week and it definitely was a "perception" problem. I do think it blows slightly less warm than the old one, but I think that's easily chalked up to being a change from an aftermarket brand to a Motorcraft. I honestly can't get over how much quieter the Motorcraft one is compared to the previous aftermarket one that was in, even before it went bad on me. Lesson learned: stick with Motorcraft.

Hey guys, I had to replace the blower fan motor yesterday in my 2010 Ford Edge. The old one had been making a nasty noise for a few days so I did the swap out myself and it went very well. I hear it spinning and ramping up as I turn the fan speed up on the console. It sounds a whole lot better and I'm confident otherwise that it's seated properly. Today I was out driving and I feel like it's not blowing out air quite as warm or as fast at top speed as the old fan, but the weather is pretty mild today compared to the past few days and even this morning, so I'm not sure if my perception is skewed. Additionally, the fan that came out was an aftermarket one that I picked up from CarQuest about 7 years ago and installed myself, but this time I went with a Motorcraft. So... I'm not sure if the difference I perceive is due to the product change. I can say that the one I removed has always made a very slight rasping noise (brushes inside motor?), as did the one that it replaced 7 years ago, so I had blown it off at the time. The new one does not make that slight rasping noise, which is what I would have expected. So... question is if I should be looking at something else in the chain here? I know there's a blower motor resistor in particular that I might need to look at, but I don't know if that would be responsible for what I'm perceiving. Any thoughts/advice? As a side note, I had also been experiencing a high pitched whistling-like noise for the past few months that wasn't resolved by replacing the blower fan. That particular noise turned out to be from the felt seal on the cabin air filter cover that was falling apart and had gaps in it. I scraped that all off; added some foam stripping that I had on hand, and problem solved!

Yeah, this was news to me, but I like it now that I know about it. As it turns out, the rear right bulb was blown, and since it doubles as the brake light, that was a ticket waiting to happen! Easy fix at the auto parts store, did it in the parking lot after buying the bulbs (replaced both sides while I was at it). I keep a driver and socket/bit set in the back for just such an emergency.

Thanks. As soon as I posted that, I did a web search and found that was the likely culprit. I’m usually better at doing my research than this. ?

Hey guys, something odd happened here. I have a 2010 Ford Edge Sport. At some point yesterday, the right turn signal suddenly started blinking at double-speed, while the left turn signal blinks at the normal speed. This persists despite having turned the car off and on several times between yesterday and today. Any idea what could be causing this and how to fix?

I wasn't aware of the ANC feature myself, but all I did in my wife's 2017 Edge was replace the dash and rear door speakers. I'm doing a little digging around and found a discussion on another forum where someone had the problem and eventually found the microphone that is part of the ANC system. Unplugging it effectively disabled ANC. https://www.ecoboostmustang.org/forum/mustang-ecoboost-audio-electronics-lighting/6874-how-do-i-disable-active-noise-control.html

Howdy all. I have a 2010 Ford Edge Sport with the series 100 remote start kit that was already installed when I purchased the vehicle used a couple years ago. The remote start function recently started failing to start the car, just as cold weather hits and I need it. Grrrrrr. What I'm seeing is that it "tries" to start (I hear a brief whirring-like noise), then it pops off a pair of horn honks and stops trying. The failure was persistent for a few mornings. I found the series 100 guide and it appears that the double-beep on failure indicates that the hood is open, but it's not. So one afternoon, I walked to the car to try to troubleshoot and the remote start worked all of a sudden. Of course since then it's stopped working when I need it to. At the moment, it seems this may be a problem caused by low temperatures since it was in the 50s when it did work the one time, but in 30s when it failed. The car otherwise starts fine by key. The battery was recently tested and is fine (replaced a few months ago and re-tested a month ago). Soooo... any thoughts on what the problem may be and what to look for? EDIT: half hour after posting this, i tried the remote start and it worked perfectly.... temp in the 50s. So still looking to be a temperature-sensitive problem EDIT 2: Ok, it's in the 60s this morning and it wouldn't start, so not a temperature-sensitive problem, it would seem.

Alrighty, I just completed the job. First, some pics of the connectors demonstrating the cable colors for the right rear door. According to the diagram referenced in my original post, the positive lead is brown/white and the negative is brown/blue. I wasn't satisfied with the way I mounted the speaker in the left rear door. I relied on electrical tape to seal up the edges, but was concerned that it would come off in time. I had also wanted to use a gasket of some sort to insulate the speaker assembly from the door frame, but couldn't find what I wanted when I did the left rear door. I wound up ordering this from Amazon: JVCC SCF-01 Single Coated PVC Foam Tape: 1/8 in. thick x 1/4 in. x 75 ft. (Black) I used this to make a seal between the speaker and the adapter, then between the adapter and the door frame. This worked out great. The width was just right and not too thick. Anything thicker would have risked causing a problem with the speaker sticking out too much. I used DynaTape to secure all the wires in place, as well as seal up a couple holes that were exposed (the factory speaker had a pair of plugs that sat in those holes). Final job here: I opened up the left rear door to redo the mounting using the PVC foam tape, and my concerns about the electrical tape not holding were well founded. It was mostly coming off already. *whoops*. I re-did it all as I did with the right rear door and everything is looking much better and secure now. My final impressions aren't much different than from when I did just the left rear side. I think the bass is a bit cleaner, "tighter", and maybe slightly cleaner vocals. Overall an improvement, though not as drastic a change as I saw with the dash speaker.

I did not replace the fronts and am disinclined to right now. We had the same need to adjust the fade control when replacing the dash speaker. I wonder if a different speaker choice in the dash would have made that less necessary. I'm not seeing any volume changes yet in the one rear, but I'll have a better idea once the other is replaced.

Alrighty, I have the left rear speaker in. As can be seen in the photos, the factory wiring is all on the outside of the door frame, not inside. I had to modify the speaker adapter to route the speaker cables, but all in all this went well. In the first set of pictures, you can see the factory speaker and the connector. There are 4 wires, 2 of which lead to the tweeter, which I am bypassing and not using. Going by the diagram previously posted here, the leads for the lower speaker are white/green for positive, brown/yellow for negative. The wires remaining go to the tweeter: green/brown and gray/brown. The tweeter wire colors were confirmed via its own harness, seen in the photos below. The inner tabs on the mounting adapter kept the speaker from sitting flush on it, so I used vice grips to simply snap them off. I then had to drill holes in the side of the adapter to run the speaker wires through. I re-assembled it all and used electrical tape to seal up the edges. I may go back and re-do this with DynaTape when I do the other door to ensure I have a good seal. Getting it all back together was mostly easy. The door handle was a bit of a pain and I wound up having to get the piece that the handle is supposed to grab onto pulled forward and off-track a little so it'd stay in place while I snapped it back into the panel. Below is a photo of the original speaker from the backside. I did a sound test using the fader/balance controls to isolate the speakers. It's hard to get a good idea of the difference like this since the left and right tracks aren't "identical". That said, it seems a little cleaner with the vocals and maybe slightly better bass. It's not dramatic, though I do still have to replace the other speaker. I doubt that will lead to a dramatic difference to be honest and for the effort involved, maybe not worth it for most people.

JL Audio TR650-CXi. These are 2-way speakers rather than components. To do components right, I'd have to find a place to mount the passive crossover and do some re-wiring, something I don't care to do. So I'm mounting this in the lower door and leaving the tweeter in the upper door disconnected. I picked these because they were in the price range I was looking at; get GREAT reviews; and their power requirements seem to be a good match for what the factory amp should be putting out. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136TR650CX/JL-Audio-TR650-CXi.html?tp=105&avf=Y

Ok, I believe I have discovered the trick here. I found a guide for removing the door panel on a late model Ford Fusion. It appears to have the same mechanism for the door handle as the 2017 Edge. I'll post his pics here to demo it. I'll post back when I'm able to get back to working on the speaker replacement again. Now that I know how to remove the panel completely, that part of the job shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. I may not be able to finish up here until next Sunday due to our work schedules here, but I'll update with photos and impressions of the replacement speakers. 2013-2016-Ford-Fusion-Interior-Door-Panel-Removal-Guide-022 EDIT: Got it off. As you push on that clip as shown in the photo, you'll also need to pull on the interior door handle to release it completely. It was a little tricky, but I was able to handle it solo.

Glad the difference wasn't just my imagination. :D. If you think about what's going on here, the original speaker was just a 3.5" woofer cone with no tweeter. Since the replacement speakers we are now using are 2-way speakers and are now putting out crisp highs thanks to a high-quality tweeter now in use, it's clear that the signal going to the dash is completely unfiltered. That means the old speaker, which was a relatively poor one to begin with, was trying to reproduce a greater range of audio than it's capable of doing well. So it's no wonder the audio was so "muddy". This does make me wonder if the door speakers are similarly unfiltered.

Alrighty, I've started on the rear door speakers, but ran into a roadblock in getting the door panel off. Hopefully someone has some ideas. I'll post photos detailing what I've managed too far. Basically it's down to disconnecting the door handle. I started with the guide posted in this thread to get me in the right direction. Start by removing the two smaller bolts located at the bottom of the door. I used a 9/32 socket, but a 7mm socket should work also. Next, you'll need to pop off that shiny black piece on the armrest. Work it out from the side facing the front of the car, then slide it out. Unclip the single wiring harness. Once out, you'll see a bolt that needs to come out, using a 10 mm socket. You can most easily remove that bolt by using a socket wrench with a long extension and fit it through the gap in the armrest from the side. Next, pop out the matte black insert around the door handle. Pry it out from the side facing the front of the car (try working on it from the bottom and top corners), then slide it out. Remove the bolt with a 10 mm socket. From here, the panel pops off from the bottom and sides, then lift it up and off the door frame. There are a couple more wiring harnesses that will need to come out, and the door handle needs to be disconnected from the cable. This is where I am hung up. I can't figure out how to disconnect the cable. See photo below of the back side of the assembly. Any tips/thoughts? EDIT: The post linked to previously.... HappyHourSport says to remove 3 star-shaped screws and the handle assembly stays in-place attached to the door frame. I just can't figure out where these screws are exactly. I assume I pop out the surrounding panel that encompasses the tweeter, but I'm not sure.

You know what? I forgot to test it with no bass blocker added at all. I was thinking it was to be a test of the two different blockers. Sorry about that. It should sound fine with none, but I'd expect it to be a little cleaner with the lesser of the blocker options. Looking forward to seeing your impressions. Hopefully I'm not just imagining the differences.

Alrighty, the job is done. I did a sound check using the 150 Hz and 300 Hz bass blockers (200/400 Hz on this 3 ohm speaker). I used Steely Dan's "Hey Nineteen" as my demo since it's a great track with soft easy vocals and a mix of instruments with nothing overbearing. First off, you can't go wrong with either of these. There was definitely slightly stronger bass when using the 200 Hz bass blocker and didn't come across as "muddy", but it seemed to be slightly less clear in the mids when compared to the 400 Hz blocker. I say "seemed" to be because it sounded good regardless and not being an "audiophile", and with there being a few minutes' gap during swapping out the blockers, I don't know how much was me imagining that difference in the mids. One thing that did occur to me... if you think about the area the speaker sits in, it has a fair bit of space much like a small speaker cabinet, which should help a bit with the bass acoustics. That all said, I went with the 300 Hz bass blocker. My wife doesn't care to have strong bass and since I'm planning to replace the rear door speakers this weekend, I felt this was the better choice for the overall plan. One other note... according to a diagram I've seen, the DSP is located in the back cargo area, not in the head unit. I would have thought the exact opposite, but this means that the dash speaker has the longest length of speaker wire running to it. Using this Infinity 3-ohm speaker to minimize the impedance would seem to have been a great choice for that reason alone. Really, the sound is so much better now that I'm almost disinclined to replace the door speakers. Yes, it made THAT much of a difference. I'm still going to replace the rear door speakers, but may not bother with the fronts, or maybe just do the tweeters. We'll see.

Thanks for the details. It appears to be about the same process I went through removing the rear quarter panel to replace the sub in my 2010 Edge. I think I'm going to sit on this part for a bit and replace the door speakers first, then see if I want to continue with these.

I pulled back part of the panel to get a look inside. The speaker is bolted to that grill piece that extends out and the cover does appear to snap in from the inside, at least partly (more on that in a moment). Replacing these speakers may require removing pretty much all the panels in the cargo area because this one in particular is overlapped by the panel below it. Then there's the matter of how to actually mount a speaker in there. Here's a photo I snapped. It's hard to make out much but gives a few clues. Here's how I think this is actually attached, and if I'm right, it'll be easier than at first glance. Not seen in that photo is a pair of tabs approximately 2" long at the bottom. I think this speaker assembly is inserted from the front by sliding the lower part in first, setting the tabs in place, then popping it in around the edges and top. This is similar to how a lot of battery covers are held in place on most electronics.

Alrighty. That panel... pops off easy like most panels? It doesn't look like there's much to it. Just pry it out on the sides? Well they do face directly at the driver/passenger at head level, so a decent set of speakers with good tweeters should be noticeable. At the moment, it looks like I'm going to bypass the in-door tweeters entirely due to the complexity of wiring up a proper component speaker set and putting 2-ways down low, so having better tweeters in the back since it's at ear level to help make up for it is my goal.

As part of the speaker replacements in my wife's 2017 Edge, I want to replace the pair of smaller speakers located in the rear pillars of the cargo area. These speakers only come with models having the upgraded 12-speaker system. I can't find any information at all on these speakers. No guides on removal, what replacements will fit, nada. So I need to get into this area to see what the speaker size is (likely 3.5") and what the cutout dimensions are before considering alternatives to put in. I took a handful of photos showing the speaker and general area of that pillar. I'm assuming I can just pop off the cover (which as the photos show is somewhat conical in how it extends from the pillar), but obviously need to take care to avoid scratching the panels. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. I'll keep looking for any guides I can find for a similar speaker installation in other vehicles. I'll keep this thread updated with any progress I make through completion of the job.

I'm curious myself actually. I was planning to do a quick swap this weekend, but I've got a lot going on. I may sit on it for a week so I'll have time to really listen carefully.

Crutchfield's. photos were from a model that doesn't appear to have the Sony system, so it's possible the front speakers are wired differently. The wiring diagrams posted by HappyHourSport in another thread here show the front woofers and tweeters are wired separately and directly from the DSP on the fronts, but it's looking like that is just for the Sony system. The rears should still be the same as shown and as you describe from your Fusion, judging from those diagrams. I'm looking over the photos he posted of his front door and if I'm looking at the right wiring harness, the connector that plugs into the woofer has... 8 wires? That can't be right. I see another connector to the right of the one I'm looking at... maybe that's the one that goes to the speaker, but I can't see the wires. I do see where he says that all harnesses are 4 conductors.

If you plug a 2015 Ford Edge into Crutchfield's website, you'll get a bunch of install photos that should apply equally to 2016 and 2017 models. I'll link to them here. This first one is the tweeter in the front door. It appears to be a view from the backside of a panel? https://images2.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131200/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/frontdoortweeterspeaker.JPG This next one is with the tweeter removed, showing the "nest" it sits in. https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131200/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/frontdoortweetercavity.JPG Woofer in the front door. https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131200/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/frontdoorwooferspeaker.JPG Woofer removed. https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131200/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/frontdoorwoofercavity.JPG Rear door woofer. https://images2.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131300/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/reardoorwooferspeaker.JPG Rear door woofer removed. https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20160930131300/VehiclePix/2015/Ford/Edge/Sport%20Utility/With%20Sony%20audio/reardoorwoofercavity.JPG If you look at how the woofer is wired, replacing this is going to be more challenging than usual. The wiring harness is in-between the door panel and the door, not inside the door. There are also 4 wires going into the woofer???? Whaaaa?? I'm guessing the extra pair is leading back out to the tweeter. But that is WEIRD! The woofer must have a crossover built-in to itself or maybe just a high level bass and mid-blocker for the tweeter's signal. Hmmm... it seems it may basically be a 2-way speaker, with a reallllllly long wire run to the tweeter. Can anyone confirm what's going on here? At the minimum, since there is no (known) wiring harness for these cars right now, using the factory wiring would require clipping that adapter and extending the wiring to a replacement speaker's inputs (or to the passive crossover for a component system). I'm not even sure where I would put the crossover. Thoughts?

Alrighty, I just took a look at the extra speaker I had from the set. That small capacitor is rated at 4.7 uF, so if you plug it into that calculator, then for a 3 ohm speaker you get 11276.6 Hz. So it appears to be a blocker for the tweeter. I also double-checked the extra capacitors that came with the speakers. I have to apologize for getting that rating mixed up earlier. It's rated for 270 uF, which equates to 196.3 Hz bass blocking. So a bass blocker rated for 150 Hz on a 4 ohm speaker would be the equivalent for this 3 ohm speaker. Damned if I know how I got that number wrong earlier. Either it was wrong on Crutchfield's site and they've since corrected it, or maybe I was looking at the wrong product. Or it was late at night and things were fuzzy. *shrug* Anyone have any idea what the speaker size is in the rear hatch for the 12-speaker systems? I can't find any info on them anywhere. The best I can find is the part listing on an OEM Ford parts site for a 2016 Edge. Judging from the illustration, it should be a 3.5" woofer, similar to the dash speaker.

I'm going to replace it for sure this weekend maybe. It'll take about 20 minutes now that I know what to expect and do. When I put the speaker in, before mounting it I tested it to be sure it was working. I couldn't feel the cone moving, but I was obviously getting highs from the tweeter so I figured the cone was moving but barely enough to be noticeable, so I shrugged it off since it was getting late. In retrospect, it would seem it really wasn't moving at all because the bass blocker was killing just about everything the small cone driver is supposed to handle, leaving just the tweeter operating. Whoops. I'll make a mental note of the sound beforehand and after, and feel the cone again while playing, but I'm expecting good things. BTW, just spoke with my wife and she is VERY happy with the sound change. She said she doesn't have to turn the volume up as much as before now and it's noticeably clearer. For her to be this impressed, it had to be a huge difference.