matthewsbell

The flash drive should have the auto install.ist file and the SyncMyRide folder as the root. Don't simply copy the whole zip file over to the flash drive. You need to go into the folder which is created when you unzip the file and then copy those contents over to the flash drive. Unless the auto install file is the first thing the Sync 3 system sees, the update won't take.

There is some extra cable as you pull the hub out. There are some little tabs that need to be pressed to remove the plugs from each. There are two cables, one is a Mini-USB style plug that is L-Shaped. The other is the power cord (which I assume powers the hub and the little lights around each plug).

Yes that's right, and no need to remove the chrome. As mentioned you may need to remove the plastic that runs around the back of the stereo near that cubby that passes through from the passenger side to the drivers side. You may also need to pull the lower trim panel off that runs from the floor up to the part you marked in your photo. All depends on whether you can get a tool in to pop the tabs down.

Hi Tom, I recently did the instal for the hub this way. You can use a trim tool (or similar prying device that won't damage the finish) to pop the leather material that runs between the silver trim around the stereo and the lower plastic trim which goes all the way to the floor. The entire piece can come out if you move the passenger seat all the way to the back (the piece runs all the way to the rear of the centre console. This will give you very limited access behind the panel where the USB plugs into. If you look at the hub you purchased you will notice on the top and bottom (the skinny sides), there are two tabs (one on each end) which can be pushed down. This is the key to popping out the hub (not the tabs that run along the side of the hub). I ended up removing the plastic trim behind the hub which wraps around the cubby passthrough for easier access as well as some of the lower plastic trim that runs to the floor. However, knowing what I know now, you may not need to do this if you can get a long screwdriver in to push down the top tab. Once you have it pushed down you should be able to pop the top out at least. If you can get access to the bottom without removing more trim, do the same there and the unit should slide right out. As I mentioned earlier, I ended up removing the plastic behind the console around the cubby pass through as well as the lower trim that runs to the floor area. This allowed me to get my entire hand in behind and squeeze both tabs (top and bottom) and push the hub out. In hindsight, having known the top and bottom tabs are the key to removing the hub, I may have been able to pop it out without removing as much trim. Good luck with the install. It's worth it in my opinion. Siri is much better at understanding voice input for navigation than Sync, not to mention that your maps will always be up to date.

So Lildisco, did they sync up automatically or did they still need to train them. Interesting to know what really happened with mine based on your experience.

For me it calibrated on the first drive. Never received the TPMS error in the first place. My TPMS Sensors were brand new so there may be an issue with sensors that have been calibrated to a previous vehicle. When my guy said he couldn't retrain using the aftermarket tool he said I would likely have to take it to Ford. Might be worth a trip to the dealer to see if they can reset the sensors.

I believe it depends on what type of TPMS sensors you get. Aftermarket TPMS sensors likely need to be re-learned with the tool. However, I recently put on winter rims with genuine motorcraft TPMS Sensors (TPMS-35 (315mhz)) and I can confirm that they auto-learn without any tool or calibration. Even the tire shop that installed them was not aware of this. They called me during the install to tell me they couldn't get their aftermarket re-learn tool to work. I told them to install anyway. Have almost 3 weeks of driving including some long distance drives and can confirm that all 4 sensors are working correctly with no need for calibration. The tire shop had even over-inflated one of the tires by accident which had the side benefit of allowing me to verify that the sensors were in fact reading the correct PSI. For reference my Edge is a 2016 Titanium AWD.

I believe it depends on what type of TPMS sensors you get. Aftermarket TPMS sensors likely need to be re-learned with the tool. However, I recently put on winter rims with genuine motorcraft TPMS Sensors (TPMS-35 (315mhz)) and I can confirm that they auto-learn without any tool or calibration. Even the tire shop that installed them was not aware of this. They called me during the install to tell me they couldn't get their aftermarket re-learn tool to work. I told them to install anyway. Have almost 3 weeks of driving including some long distance drives and can confirm that all 4 sensors are working correctly with no need for calibration. The tire shop had even over-inflated one of the tires by accident which had the side benefit of allowing me to verify that the sensors were in fact reading the correct PSI. For reference my Edge is a 2016 Titanium AWD.

Not peeling but I have a few spots right on creases where the paint has chipped off. On the edge of the door next to the hinge on the rear passenger side is one place. Couldn't have been a rock chip in that location.

Just saw that as well. From all of the news releases Ford seemed to imply that it was only a free software upgrade. The salesperson that just sold me my 2016 Edge was under that impression as well. Had I known it was going to cost money to upgrade I would have gladly waited to purchase my new vehicle. Very disappointed Ford.