garycrist

When I sold Yokohama tires back in the late 80's, the only tire to have were the

A001s for the track, in most of the road racing classes. For the street were the A008s.

One would last 1K-8K with the BETTER driver receiving fewer miles. While the other

tire would last 30K-60K with the BETTER driver receiving the best mileage!  The quizzical

looks and questions would flow after I made those statements.

So, getting "short" wear life out of HP products is expected. That is why they gave the Joker

option.

"Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?"

I just read through this thread. The earlier Edges had the computer as stated above,

run the "flasher function". If one goes with a LED assembly or light a resistor MUST be

put in series. In the above the problem with the dual fitment is if the dual filaments were

wired in series or parallel.

So in order to do the math (I'm too lazy so I'll plagiarize) and cut and paste.

Read redmondjp explanation and MATH.😀

https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/resistance-of-1156-bulb.2375533/

Might I ask where in the trouble shooting guide, does it say disconnect the battery?

Without more info, I would guess the hamster wheel needs lubing.

Check and see if he plugged in the gear shift connectors and he did

not blow a fuse. Pop the cover off and look.

I see the red calipers, didn't some of those pads have normal rapid wear?

Take a picture of the 4 rotors through the wheels and post them here.

We will quickly help determine if a quick pad change will work.

Have you done a master reset of the Sync system?

If not Ford has a reset procedure for all of the Sync systems.

https://www.ford.com/support/how-tos/sync/getting-started-with-sync/troubleshooting-apple-carplay/

GL

I can offer you a suggestion. It might be possible to un-stick the seat belt if over-extended

with a thin flexible piece of steel. (read Slim Jim) Try slipping it on the inside of the belt and

move the tool down till resistance is encountered. ( the belt seam) I've unstuck a few.

Watch the video to learn MY the cheat!

I do not think so. Just do not let the master run dry and don't pump too far down on the pedal.

I have a man we have worked with for many years on a different site. He has

given me permission to forward  his information to anyone needing a Ford ESP plan.

He is the General Manager of the dealership so there will be some rules, as we do not

need his e-mail box filling with B.S.

PM me and I'll be glad to forward Joel's info to you..

The process is simple as sending in the VIN year and mileage and picking one's plan/plans.

It is my understanding these are at his cost.

Gary

P.S.

In Florida, it is an insurance policy and is handled in state. I make no money too!

I have them on my Fox Mustang and it does help modulate the pedal.

Something I would like more of on our ST.

Did anyone answer FREE TOWING from every insurer one has in one's pocket?

I hope you did not get hosed from your repair. IIRC the reservoir is pressurized!

If you overheated the 1st time, it is possible someone drilled a vent hole to

prevent the coolant from spewing out from a blown head gasket.

Rather than lugging those jumper cables around, I purchased one of those little

LIPO batteries for jumping my stuff. Now  with the new Edge, I carry a breaker bar and socket

for the tires and 165 foot pounds of torque.

Don't forget about bias-ply tires and flats all of the time too.

A 4 way and jumper cables in the trunk just for back up.

The only people that seem to have transmission problems, are one's w/ no maintenance.

When I have all of the rig a ma roll on, The ST is just like some of my friends that want to drive it.

They get on some twisties and I scream at them like I do the ST. GET OFF THE FKN BRAKES!

I'll bet Florida sellers have to have an in state Insurance License.

Aren't Ford ESPs based on the new car's original date of purchase and 0 mileage?

Sticking caliper pistons, especially the plastic ones if still used, may (will)

swell over time and usage. On metal pistons, a rust belt will form on the

surface of the piston outside it's seal. The dust boot is just that as it  only

keeps dust our!

Squeezing those pistons back in, takes a chance of a sticking piston and

can be a crap shoot.

While bleeding brakes, DO NOT PUSH TO THE FLOOR!  Master cylinders wears too.

One only pushes so far and a ring of gunk and a ridge will build up. Bleeding the brakes

or just resetting the pads after their replacement, one must be careful not to push too far down,

lest a master cylinder failure may happen from a torn seal.

As a shot in the dark, have you tried to cycle the ABS valves?

Or, try going down a gravel road and do some lock-ups to exercise

the ABS valves. I could be wrong but, I've seen lots of recomendations

along that line.

Also addressed here already too.

Let us know...

What a jump we did too! We went from a 2008 Limited to a 22 ST. WOW is all I can say with the 401A

"Big Screen TV".

I read some posts and, I do not see why not. One thing I like sometimes,

is when I put it in "stupid mode". Set it at a little over legal limit set the distance

and then pull over in a slower lane. The car will automatically brake, but sometimes

for no reason at all. You then become the NASCAR "accordion starter" unless one

mashes the gas!

GL

Lane Centering, yea right except when there is a tar stripe down the road. I love fighting

the automatic slow down sometimes when changing lanes, at least I am a left foot braker.

(For some reason one can't heel and toe the way they have the pedals set)

Lane Centering costed us a lot in our 1st. week. The lane centering wobbled the wheel, the wife

jerked the car into the curb. No curb rash but, the rims were bent and we lost 2 new tires. $1K

lost in the 1st. week!

Typically power train is 5 year/ 60,000 miles. Call your Ford rep and plead!