garycrist

I do not know where you live, but here just north of Dallas, I bet I could find a set of used 18 inch tires and wheels that will satisfy your ride. It is the low aspect (2nd number) ratio that helps determine stiffness as well as grip for the wider tires. This stiffness is reflected in less sidewall flex, better fuel economy,better handling etc. So a 245/60-18 tire will fill the bill with the 18 inch rims.

What can be said about a pin-up that is real. Then we find out that she is a good shot. But this makes the deal... Talking about the "Right Stuff". https://www.fromtheroad.ford.com/us/en/articles/2024/sydney-sweeney-designs-dream-ford-mustang-for-a-trailblazing-fan

Do you have a catch can on your engine? (aftermarket part) Also it takes a little time for the oil level to stabilize for an accurate oil level reading. I have seen "junk" like extra sealant, clog the oil return path and cause the PCV to SUCK oil! (Dodge 2.2L 4cyl. the smoke cleared mosquitos for miles.) BTW the silicone gobs came from it's an over use on the oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Start with something like a https://www.jlosc.com/ then go from there. Check the level in the catch can after each smoke event, to determine where to go from there.

With all of these favorable tariffs for the US into all of these foreign countries, the only "cheap" super car left is a 5.0 Ford Mustang! Especially since Ford is campaigning a Mustang Dark Horse in several racing classes.

I have never believed that changing tranny fluid on a high mileage vehicle would cause slippage. The normal reason the customer would change the fluid, was because of problems to begin with. (on high mileage transmission) Fresh fluid will not hurt the bands, clutches,steels or seals. Nor will it "wash" the friction material off the clutches or bands too. Most people have no idea what is inside anyway!

I have found Italian coins, a wine bottle or two in new Fiats doing PDIs back around 1973.

On RDU failure. It looks like the pinion bearings are failing due to fluid break-down due to excessive heat. It is tough to figure out if they do light weight fluids for EPA crap. Bearing clearance on rotating parts has not changed. Clutch pack clearances are the same. Hence, the tighter clearances B.S. that is fed to us, is not a starter nor valid! Before the recent push to maximize fuel economy, lower emissions especially CO2, a heavier weight differential fluid ie. 75-140 etc. was called for for heavy duty service or towing. Remember, Domestic manufactures sell new vehicles. The faster your new pride and joy wears out, the faster the bastards can sell you a new one. r

Almost like your carburetor is out is out of oil. (MG, Datsun etc. w/ oil dampened slides)

Back a long time ago, we would sub thinner type f for Type A for harder faster shifts. The LV will shift softer read slip the clutches and add heat. It could void the warranty too.

You can't fix electroplating! This is why there are + ground systems.

NEVER!!! Everything except the brake pads and tires and wiper bladesare OE on the 08 Edge!

Disc Brake squeal lets one know the brakes are working and there is no charge for those features. (joke)

You might look at the battery terminals replace as nessary. A bad chassis ground or the PLUS side of the battery to the power distribution box would cause the problem you described. Those originate at the battery in most cases. Your charging system appears to good, according to your readings. As a side note, take your high RPM readings with ALL of the electrical load. A/C on ,fan on high, bright lights, etc. or 1/2 volt or so above the resting voltage about 12.8 volts.

I would search for a loose/bad ground.

@razziel24 it looks great. The work you did might not please all but, if you like it, it is great.

I used to keep a supply of window/door switches in my tool box. The first thing I would do was to substitute my switch for theirs. The window motors on the rear doors, would "weld" the brushes to the armature and lock-up. So, exercise those rear windows from time to time to prevent that problem.

If your fuel additive does not have PEA in it, your, shall we say, "urinating into the wind". As far as oil, I would point you to Lake Speed jr.'s video on Valvoline's Protect and Restore engine oil. To go deeper, find his comparisons of oil tests too. Did not realize there was a pun till I proof read it.

Get the poly hockey pucks that fit your jack/stand. ONLY jack at the spots in the owner's manual.

I have 285 35 22s on my ST. Check out my "Black Mamba" in my profile.

What brand of tires and what is the DOT code on the tire? It appears so one likes to drive what some would consider a little "sporty". The shoulder wear (both sides) indicates where the steel belt ends. If it was a toe problem, the edges of all of the tread blocks would have a feathered edge on one side. But, the pics indicate small chunks are being shed while at high steering angles. In the top image it appears that a little extra wear is indicated by the right side being a little more worn than the left. That would indicate about half a degree of extra camber to that side, providing that is about 12 K miles in normal conditions on that tire. Gary

I think he is referring to Lane Keeping. I have turned it off because I drive the car, not the computer.

@Davidoo, I also have a 22 ST too. As you stated confusion exists but I will help you. Our RDUs have a drain plug and a fill plug and the tranny has a drain and fill plug too. AS for no lift, I used 4 ramps https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11912-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramps/dp/B0117EESNC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=R9MRLD01WYW4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4okd22uK9UE4fyiUUj08Slo6FXaiQHl7CDfDtOe6sUfcGRBJAgsX8MqPngrm9kJj4_3k1CFA6Tj8lj_S6e8kSUuSTfKfL3gifNAavPsy5QjQ8d7glVtjxGhLRXcCP5xovssfsIUDvyJ4RNRBKRRV7a7v0DqBTpW18rGk--538kcq-1PGrilqWVhHZfyIYVigRFrCLV_D8o756fLxqh10yHiJWildoqkhEio7Lu-oe1u3RCq-jffBN70GoWrpAU-YpLRZ3mWX2xMWnG01UCtJdanexSTKHq_awTxbnnfHug7tSZt43yLO8t8X8Ox5CDqcKOvO3NIVLqVk2cWpT9jm35ooQ3sB5zbEurysBH27zblI8fy18LW8xriFy3MuRQUnoUYKv5_n5Y_OVCdb9bA4TuXlUaXChZ9w9mkW_Dcj7k6KTmg84ncSQ3S2RLWiyFHr.ey3DhlG06_05QhLU4ioQXHO0ZfYSV2WxTZ0qQ3m43Lg&dib_tag=se&keywords=drive%2Bup%2Bramps&qid=1742655930&sprefix=drive%2Bup%2Bramps%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-4&th=1 to do all my service on a creeper to boot!

My 1st. plan expires @75K miles/ 2028. I just did a RDU service and discovered metallic glitteries! I am not as mobile as I once was. Do we keep the problem and extend the ESP or swap it out for an Exploder ST? I contact my guy with my wallet wide open! He told me keep your $$$ till 73K miles or 6 months before expiration date to renew. Hang onto your money!!! After that experience as well as other folks experience, I why people from across the US do some driving. GL

On my 2008 Edge 3.5L, I replace the spark plugs about every 75K miles. 210K miles now and I should inspect the OE belts.🤣🤣

What I could hear, it sounds like a heat shield buzzing.